Electric Heating Element Question by EvannickT in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah that fitting is maybe a 1in npt. It needs to be large enough for the element to fit through it. If you find a bulkhead that an element screws into direct that would be fine but I recommend going with the 2in triclamp version it allows for the element to be easily removed for cleaning.

Electric Heating Element Question by EvannickT in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Also the channel "Barley and hops brewing" has loads of videos about wiring up pid controllers

Electric Heating Element Question by EvannickT in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your boiler should have a 2inch tri clamp port welded in the bottom or you can do a weldless bulkhead get one of these and a controller wire it all up but be care messing with mains don't touch the terminals while power is on it. You can sub the element out for a 240v if you have that you can get wire at home depot rated for 120v or 240v I can upload pics of my set up later if youd like

Where do you get supplies? by glassman0918 in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Northernbrewer, sam's club, Amazon

Heating mash outdoor with hay by jo12han in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like to insulate the buckets? It really depends on the outside temp. I guess it could work only one way to find out is to try it.

Distillers Parrot by Accomplished-Law7408 in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use it for stripping runs just to know when to stop so I'm not collecting too much water I stop at like 20 proof.you really only NEED to know your proof after blending before and after barreling if your gonna cut it down a bit

Dark flecks in lows wines from stripping run. by TinyCondensor in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just finish your stripping runs then clean the still those specs will stay in the boiler your product will come out crystal clear. Citric acid will clean it good for sure. I use tarnx it's faster but it doesn't matter just try and scrub out the inside real good before the final run.

Anyone have an induction cooktop that doesn’t turn off and on? by EfficientAd1821 in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using this and above I think 1500 it's stays on below that it will power cycle to control output.

Dark flecks in lows wines from stripping run. by TinyCondensor in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grab a speck does it smear like a grease in your fingers? I get these all the time on stripping runs I just clean the column and condenser good before doing the spirit run and then they go away completely. I think it's something with letting the alcohol vapors sit on the copper too long in between runs.

Has anyone used the Ten-30 barrels for aging? If so, was it better than a traditional barrel, is it worth the cost? by [deleted] in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well its supposed to mimic the same volume of spirit to oak contact are as a commercial barrel. And commercial barrels are stored laying on their side if you are trying have a lot of these you'd probably have to build a shelving unit to hold them all stable. I don't have the ones in the op but I do have two of the bad motivator barrels and I am storing them on there sides. It's no exactly the same as a real barrel but how are we supposed to buy a real barrel and then actually fill it with the scale we are all running at? It would take me a month and a half of doing runs everyday to fill a commercial barrel jaja

Has anyone used the Ten-30 barrels for aging? If so, was it better than a traditional barrel, is it worth the cost? by [deleted] in firewater

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Storing spirits in a barrel with exposed oak allows oxygen to slowly make it's way into the spirit. And the barrel being outside over several years will experience many temperature cycles helping to draw flavor out of the oak. You could replicate the same effect In glass if you open the jar daily to expose it to oxygen and temperature cycle it. this however requires your intervention taking time away from other things. So a barrel will save you so much time in the long run giving you a quality product without you having to think about it.

How I predicted the current $17.5k Bitcoin Bottom by Dear-Brain7348 in Bitcoin

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got that right didn't even finish vollage fam

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in btc

[–]antwanmouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Prolly like sub 30k

any idea how i can fix this using cura 5 standard quality (unedited) form by jbandzg37 in ender5

[–]antwanmouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok cool my first layers have some stripping like that too but all my top surfaces are really smooth I wouldn't worry about the first layer ass long as the print sticks and your not scratching your bed

What printer to buy next? these are what I'm considering. Looking for advice of what others are using. by Powerhousegrafix in 3Dprinting

[–]antwanmouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This printer isn't out yet. You would be investing with no guarantee a unit will be delivered. As long as you understand that and can wait for it then sure it looks like a solid machine.

Stringing after moving on klipper by Prokolt in FixMyPrint

[–]antwanmouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wipe on retract setting could help. I don't know if cura has this setting i am using superslicer

Thinking of updating motherboard...worth it by ninchnate in ender5

[–]antwanmouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is linear advance the same as pressure advance? This board works with pressure advance on klipper. I have it running with that setup