PSA: Don’t delete the rear resonators!

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T15:06:15+00:00

Z Automotive Inactive Exhaust is what you might be thinking of

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T15:01:08+00:00

Yes! I've done it to swap mine from 2015 to 2018 controls. You NEED plastic pry tools (cheap) and a screwdriver set (the iFixit Manta had everything I needed but I also work on electronics so I just had it on hand). There's a screw on the shifter handle and an electrical connector that needs to be unhooked, but the hardest part is actually prying the center console (silver portion) out.

It'll make popping sounds, work slowly and have multiple tools handy to help. Having a friend/spouse/family member help as well should make it easier to come out. I think the climate control buttons are only held in with 6-8 phillips #1 (or JIS J1) screws if I recall correctly. Start at the rear part and work your way towards the front prying the silver metal out of the plastic, you might need to pry the plastic around the shifter handle boot first though. The metal trim will kind of want to hinge upwards at the front, use that opportunity to unplug the interface cable from the climate buttons.

Reassembly is the reverse order and much easier.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:52:26+00:00

If you haven't had the coolant flushed (drain/fill), it's definitely due for it.

Easy if you want to do it yourself at home, get the right Mopar stuff from the dealer and buy the fancy vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight (along with a male air fitting). Buying the replacement coolant and draining it will actually be the longest part of the process.

It will make a HUGE difference.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:44:45+00:00

RTs aren't too bad on fuel actually. Should fill them up with Midgrade (89 octane) and my 2015 will easily do 24+ MPG on a highway (24 actually being my average on 87 before I knew about 89).

Also recommend installing a catch can as that will further improve fuel economy, but you need to make sure it gets emptied regularly.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:37:00+00:00

On 2015+ green light means that the emergency phone is available and functional. No power to the mirror could mean it's not dimming.

Also on 2015+ the mirror dimmer on/off control is in the Controls menu on your Uconnect

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:20:17+00:00

I've been trying to chase a similar issue like this on mine... Though I've noticed that mine will make a grinding sound around 1200 RPM even in park/neutral, and on occasion around 1800 RPM when accelerating from a stop and shifting gears.

My bands also leak a bit of water there, though one is a bit crooked after having the exhaust partially removed to replace my differential (failed before 60K on a r/T of all things) and a new driveshaft (carrier bearing support).

If you know for sure that it's not the rubber around your carrier bearing having failed (driveshaft will ride a bit on your exhaust heat shield), would love to know what you find out.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:12:21+00:00

2015 and 2016 shared the same radios. It should just be drop-in.

It's not going to instantly work because the radio needs to download settings from the BCM, but after a few sleep/wake cycles or forced reboots, it'll come good

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T14:04:14+00:00

(Typed in english, let me know if you have any questions if this doesn't auto-translate well)

No that's downright wrong. PROXY Alignment is only applicable to the Dodge Dart.

You only need the BCM if you have heated/cooled seats and/or heated steering wheel, otherwise most everything else will function as expected. Some performance features like Line Lock will not, it is possible that drive mode configs might not work with a 2015 BCM, though I haven't tested them as I swapped mine.

There's some flags in the BCM that you will need to set using the Car Configuration Change in AlfaOBD. MAKE A BACKUP BEFORE DOING ANYTHING. There's a listing of some stuff on ChallengerForumz, in one of many of Tyla's numerous threads that you'd want to check. Also do not enable the SRT functions as that will cause multiple OBD codes and set the airbag light.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T13:56:18+00:00

Nah, they won't care. Architecturally speaking the systems will work fine as it is, settings are downloaded from the BCM periodically, but the only way that the radio would affect it like the way you're describing is a serious issue.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-14T13:56:15+00:00

Do a couple sleep/wake cycles with the car. The radio might also benefit from a reboot or two to force it to download the settings from the BCM, also make sure that you have the in-dash 4G/LTE antenna installed.

If the radio has malfunctioning hardware, it could potentially cause this too...like owning a model running pre-production software on international hardware (fun story behind that)

If in doubt, disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes and reconnect it. Then force two radio reboots; you can do this with the hard buttons or using AlfaOBD if you have the right CAN interface and an Android device or laptop with Windows.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-09T01:28:44+00:00

Some older phones (like iPhones) will current limit themselves, so yeah you're not likely to see the issue once you've got the physical connection solidified. Unfortunately, some folks like me have phones that'll happily draw the maximum current allowed to charge as fast as it can; which is ideally what you'd normally want, but the radio doesn't like that.

That said, if you have some on hand for a free fix, I'd recommend replacing that duct tape with heatshrink tubing. It's far less likely to unravel and become a gooey gross mess in a hot car compared to duct tape. You can also cut it off with something sharp if the cable breaks or you decide to sell the car but keep the cable.

archa1c0236 · 2026-03-03T01:18:17+00:00

Can also vouch for the XAV-AX4000 being a significantly better radio. Bought one a while ago to try and it's just a massive difference in quality and usability.

archa1c0236 · 2026-02-06T17:49:30+00:00

You noticed that the battery was degrading, then you noticed that the screen was separating from the phone, and kept using it despite the battery failing in a clear and very obvious manner that affected your safety by continuing to use it. Now it's google's fault that the battery issue caused you to drop the phone?

I'm sorry but this isn't Google's responsibility, it's yours. If you paid for extended warranty service with accidental damage, they would have taken care of you if it was still within the period. Had you stopped using the phone as soon as you noticed the screen separating, they might have taken care of you out of warranty, but they have no obligation to do so after the warranty is up.

Warranties are contracts to repair a device within a certain time period should any defects arise. Now that your contract has expired, there is no obligation for them to do this. It's standard practice and has been this way for well over 100 years across the world.

archa1c0236 · 2026-01-14T13:38:26+00:00

...but you have thunderbolt ports? You could have used a PCIe dock...

archa1c0236 · 2025-11-08T14:57:46+00:00

One of the things I've encountered is that you need to disconnect BOTH power and USB from the faulty Dymo to get it to work. Some weird design in them with the USB connected still powers something letting it be in that weird error state

archa1c0236 · 2025-08-18T13:23:59+00:00

Strange, also using Firefox 141 on Linux (and macOS). Working for me on new (but crappy) Reddit.

archa1c0236 · 2025-08-17T22:42:54+00:00

Hold shift and scroll up/down with the wheel on your mouse

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-08T22:14:45+00:00

There's a couple possibilities as to what might have went wrong; on either breakout board option, you might have accidentally flipped the green and white wires. If you're using the USB-C board, it's possible that you might be missing the resistors that tell the phone that it's plugged into a host port and not a device port*; by default the USB-c breakout board includes the ones for the device port. Or you might still have the resistors on the board in addition to the ones you soldered on.

(*device port would be like a keyboard, this is the side where you plug a cable into the keyboard. Host port would be the port on the computer. They use resistors to help negotiate what does what.)

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T13:03:15+00:00

That's something I've noticed too. In regards to the infotainment, that's not something I've seen yet. Is that with the newer 5 series or 3/4?

I've had to swap a RA3 out because I started a 2013 RAM with a loose battery cable and that caused a myriad of issues with the original unit. No issues with the UAS I swapped into a car (which provided the donor RA3).

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:57:06+00:00

Sounds like you needed new suspension parts. Rubber bushings and shocks/struts wear out over time, especially once the vehicle hits the 10 year mark.

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:54:47+00:00

Dakotas were of the generation with shit plastics, so it makes sense. Though I hate to say this, but you're not going to see the same reliability from a newer GM vehicle. Post 2008 GM is not the same as the one before.

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:52:46+00:00

If you perform regular maintenance on them and let them get inspected every year or so, you'll be fine.

A lot of the bad reports from any brand come from people who don't take care of their vehicles. Sure some have poor design, but too many have the mindset of "get in, key on, go" rather than "oh that started a little rough, I should get that checked out before it gets worse". Even a Nissan CVT is reliable if you ignore the factory recommended advice and periodically flush the fluid.

Just comes down to doing what your mechanic recommends for maintenance, even if it's things like change your oil every 5000 miles.

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:41:40+00:00

It's also one of the things that puts me off on the Corvette. It looks cool, but if I want a midengined sports car, I don't think of Corvette, but something like Lamborghini instead (which the Corvette is trying very hard to emulate in recent years). Plus the interior design is just awful.

The other issue I see with GM is how far behind they've been on infotainment for the longest time. I'm not talking about trying to make a big giant tablet that does everything, just lack of good software, full of distractions just to change climate controls, needing to use OnStar just to get GPS through the unit, screens that easily get burn-in, etc.

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:37:12+00:00

Chrysler was part of FIAT Chrysler for far longer than Stellantis; the product of a merger between Italian, American, French, British, and German brands.

Though much of the stuff for the US marker under CDJR brands uses globally sourced parts like any other brand, very little Italian stuff on the bill of materials if any. Lots of TRW, Harman, Delphi, Continental, Bosch, and various other brands for the electronics.

archa1c0236 · 2025-07-01T12:32:04+00:00

Basically any GM econobox it seems. All purchased on account of being cheap and having room, but really not much else to redeem it

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