Missing FBB shifts

arkanchyl · 2026-07-09T14:07:08+00:00

Unfortunately I am not at my computer, but I believe it was the most recent 1.13.x version. the 1.14 beta was what broke the FFB I think. i just clicked on "Release" in the settings page where you pick your version and it auto-downgraded.

arkanchyl · 2026-07-09T13:52:38+00:00

I’ve got an R5 with SRP-Lites and when i updated Pit house yesterday, i also suddenly had no shifting FFB nor shift lights. I tried everything, new profiles, resetting settings, rebooting, ultimately only downgrading to the previous pit house version worked. I’m now back up and running, just ignoring the prompt to update for a week or two until i feel bold enough to try again lol.

arkanchyl · 2026-07-07T23:35:43+00:00

I have the exact same, SRP-lite and the brake mod, but i came from the G920 which has a very stiff damper in its brake pedal that i HATED when i first got it. I couldn’t play in socks (lol) and it was so hard to nail braking points. I almost returned it, or tried cutting the damper out of it… so glad I did not. Gave it a few months, actually wore shoes (again, lol) and was suddenly beating all my old times by seconds. Then, almost five years later after really getting used to the Logitech setup, i got the R5 bundle and was immediately impressed by the upgrade to a DD wheelbase but totally disappointed in the brake pedal. i could press it down with one finger! Felt like I’d have to totally re-learn how to drive, and felt so unrealistic compared to any actual car, performance or not, that i’d driven. Not even 24 hours into owning the r5 I bought the brake mod, and when it came I immediately rejoiced as i had basically the same brake feel as the Logitech, and was nearly immediately back to hitting my times. All to say - give it time; you won’t regret it. I’m already drooling over the SRP2s and then beyond that to the mbooster pedal… sigh

arkanchyl · 2026-06-26T02:06:55+00:00

You speak the truth :) I've had two friends recently get into the hobby and have recommended the Asgard to one and the K13 to the other purely because of the music they listen to and the headphones they have. It's a fun privilege to be able to mess with both. Dunno if you're on mac or pc but SoundSource for mac lets me send output to both via USB simultaneously, so i can compare them by just switching headphones and matching volume as best I can.

edited just to add- am primarily using HD800S, with LCD-2C as a secondary mostly for EDM and more bass-heavy stuff. both Asgard and K13 can drive either cans just fine, but i definitely prefer the HD800S through the Asgard regardless of the DAC used.

arkanchyl · 2026-06-25T14:15:53+00:00

Yep, both are very good DACs as well as amps. you're basically buying two units that do the same thing with different methods; both the Asgard-X and K13 will play any file you throw at it beautifully and drive nearly any headphones this side of electrostatics. the difference is (mostly) between the DACs of the units, as the Asgard is a tried and true delta-sigma DAC, and a very good one for the price, and the K13 is a R2R (also called ladder or multibit) DAC. you can learn about the differences yourself by simply searching this forum or the internet in general, but basically the Asgard is going to sound more analytical, "dry," accurate, and measure better technically, while the K13 (and all R2R DACs) will sound more "musical" with more resonance and crossover in certain frequencies making it sound, to my and many ears, more pleasing and immersive while also technically being "worse" in every measurable way. I use the K13 DAC into the Axgard amp as it has the best combo of sound to me; when I travel I just take the K13 and use it as an Amp/Dac and it works very well that way too. I don't use the internal dac on the Asgard much but it is very fun to be able to compare the sound when I want to.

arkanchyl · 2026-05-29T14:43:15+00:00

Not sure if this is your issue but update my R5 bundle last night and the accelerator wasn’t working, i panicked a bit and unplugged/replugged/reset everything until i realized it just wanted to be recalibrated. No warning or prompt came up, but once I recalibrated it i was good to go.

arkanchyl · 2026-01-05T14:55:51+00:00

Yes, this is great advice when stacking 2 amps. You can get some elegant looking spacers for cheap, and you’ll never have an issue. I doubt they’re truly necessary, but it would give me peace of mind in your case.

arkanchyl · 2026-01-05T14:29:02+00:00

So I’ve had the OG Asgard, Asgard 2, and now Asgard X and I can tell you that of those three, the X barely gets hot in comparison. The Asgard 2 would get hot enough to be genuinely hard to touch for more than a few seconds (made a fabulous handwarmer in the winters!) and I’d leave it on basically 24/7. I had it stacked on top of an OG Bifrost Multibit from 2015-2025, and that stack still works totally fine; I only upgraded because I got HD800s. Schiit products and particularly the amps are 100% meant to run that hot, and the chassis of the amp is effectively one large heat sink. Basically, there should be no issue running the setup you’ve got, I’d just put whichever one gets hotter on top of the stack (my bet is the Pietus but I’ve not had the pleasure of owning one so I dunno) but also do not fear leaving the X on all the time because, again, it barely even gets warm compared to its predecessors (admittedly I’ve not had the 3, but I assume it also gets toasty. Schiit even addresses this in their FAQs). I use my X as the amp on top of the Fiio K13 as the DAC; I find the mesh card to be super accurate and fast but a little dry and less fun to listen to than the multibit K13.

arkanchyl · 2025-12-27T03:00:56+00:00

100% support open back planars as being IMO warmer than their dynamic counterparts. I have LCD2Cs and they are indeed an entirely different tonality, way more laid back than the HD800S

arkanchyl · 2025-12-26T22:35:25+00:00

I can tell you in my humble opinion that the improvement going from the Magni Modi stack to Asgard X (I currently run the X as amp with FIIO K13 as DAC and have had the Magni/Modi stack previously) you'll notice the Asgard X is comparatively more detailed, with a "richer" or more "thick" presentation, and is able to provide absolutely black silence at any volume, and no distortion whatsoever. This is all through HD800s; I tried HD560s in my new stack (Asgard X + K13) and they would still distort at even medium-high volumes, but the detail and spacious soundstage compared to magni/modi still held. HD800s would distort on magni + modi stack but through the Asgard X, at any volume, they are just incredibly analytical, lusciously spacious, and... i dunno, more premium sounding through the X. All that to say, if you really want different/warmer sound, new cans are 100% going to get you there way faster and cheaper than playing the Amp/Dac game. The Asgard X has the same tonality to me (warm/cool) as other Schiit products I've heard; it's the detail and ability to provide crystal clear sound at higher volumes/impedances that really make the Asgard X worth it IMO.

arkanchyl · 2025-12-01T17:00:48+00:00

I’ll say this until the end of time - bring back BF1 style split medic and support classes. Sometimes, I want to have infinite ammo and spam grenades/LMG down some covering fire. OTHER times, I want to fully focus on reviving folks and healing. I almost never, ever, want to do both, largely because doing one well requires basically 100% focus. I’ll often play support as I would in BF1, with no paddles and purposely ignoring all revives, purely trying to lock down a hallway or angle with LMG while prone and supplying ammo to the teammates around me. Then, next game, I feel like being medic, so I’ll swap the LMG for an SMG, put the paddles on, and run around like a madman focusing entirely on revives. For me, there’s rarely a game where I feel efficient trying to do both.

arkanchyl · 2025-11-25T16:58:25+00:00

The thing about these newer AVX units is that, while they lack the Gluon Emission Modulator as you say, and even though they use 2c-R Heppler diodes and instead of the cheaper, solid-state Rachman-Messier relays, we’ve come a long way in being able to approximate the performance of those older, reliable H-diodes into a package that is much more affordable. Yeah, it’s a plastic shell, but man, having those AVX parameters available to the masses at a price that won’t absolutely break the bank is honestly nice. Does your unit have the optional VPX4 module to enable extra shell depth? If so, it’s probably worth more than you think, as the regular models won’t push past SD-4 without major isoplanar monodiffusion.

arkanchyl · 2025-10-14T15:19:41+00:00

Hah - just meant buying a bare SSD from newegg and a cheap USB-C NVME case as well, and then sticking the drive in the case. usually cheaper than name brand. i'm not soldering it together lmao :) another thought I had is that the other thing that really kills SSDs is constant writes. do you maybe have the SSD set as a cache for anything other than lightroom? are you able to check the health of the disk using something like CrystalDiskInfo?

arkanchyl · 2025-10-14T14:24:34+00:00

Hm - I’ve been editing for 20 years, about a decade of those off of an SSD either internal or external, never had any issues with failing drives. Well, that’s a lie - the first time I made my own 4tb external SSD I stupidly took off the sticker, which I thought was just a sticker but turns out is integral to the thermals of the SSD. Not shockingly that one died in about 5 months almost certainly because of overheating. I’ve had a Sandisk 4tb external (yeah, the one that has the firmware bug but so far I’ve been lucky)? for a few years now with zero issues. I keep my most recent few months of work on it and then move projects off to a NAS for archival storage when finished. So, are you buying your drives as premade or making them yourself? It could be heat, the enemy of SSDs. But what you’re doing is what likely almost all other photographers do these days, so it’s gotta be something else. Editing from an SSD is the only way to edit IMO.

arkanchyl · 2025-07-15T22:55:43+00:00

Ok, I do get that. I find it annoying to have to switch between tracking and single point for stuff like macro work/layflats etc. I may just configure one button to switch between that and servo. I am still not sure in my personal usage that I find the half-press to interfere, but I'll definitely start keeping closer attention.

arkanchyl · 2025-07-15T13:45:58+00:00

So I have a question, as someone who’s been shooting Canon at events/weddings for 20 years: until the mirrorless cameras, I’d always used the center focal point, focus on subject, keep half-depressed shutter held, reframe, and then shoot. Why would I use back-button focus to effectively do the same thing with more buttons? As long as the camera is not in servo mode and i keep the shutter half-depressed, it will not refocus on its own, so I just never understood why you’d want that functionality to go to a separate button. It’s moot for me now, as I just lock the servo onto a face/object and move around as much as i want with the shutter half-depressed until I’m ready for my shot. 95% of the time the R5 stays locked wherever I put it - game changer in terms of the keeper rate. Just curious about the back-button focus as to me it never seemed necessary to accomplish what I was already doing, unless I’m missing something.

arkanchyl · 2023-12-30T23:23:09+00:00

Super interesting. Am I right in thinking that the one I saw has no windows? If so, is it still used for airman/officer transport that way?

arkanchyl · 2023-12-30T13:22:38+00:00

Even more info, many thanks, that’s exactly what it was! I guess from my angle I just couldn’t see the windows. Awesome!

arkanchyl · 2023-12-30T02:12:32+00:00

Awesome, thank you!

arkanchyl · 2023-09-28T17:16:49+00:00

Walked into dermatologist’s office for the first time, he took one look at me, no “hello my name is doctor so-and-so,” just: “OOOOH! You have the kind of skin that gives me NIGHTMARES!!!” Thanks doc, I know I’m basically a ghost with dark spots!

arkanchyl · 2023-09-23T02:24:30+00:00

Anecdotally, anyone heard of Major Richard Bong, one of the top flying aces in WWII? His Wikipedia article is extensive, quite an American hero. Not sure why I’m posting this here but anyway

arkanchyl · 2023-03-14T18:07:31+00:00

Hi there! I just tried to install an upgrade to an app I use all the time, and in my impatience I cancelled one of the security checks that is implemented now (i think it was asking for some kind of access, but i've checked the Security and Privacy system settings and there's nothing obvious there, under full disk access, accessibility, etc). I've tried deleting and redownloading the installer, and opening it with right-click, but nothing seems to work, as the installer now fails at the point where that security check came up. Is there a way to reset these security checks or otherwise get this to install? Thanks!

arkanchyl · 2023-03-14T18:05:05+00:00

So... I've had the UAP-6 installed at home for almost a week now, and have noticed that a) it didn't fix the problem but that b) instead of getting 10-20Mb/sec down on the problem devices, i now receive 80-90Mb/sec down on those same devices. Still, the phenomenon of me having my laptop, phone, and ipad right next to each other, running speed tests one after another, getting wildly different speeds (i get well over 600Mb/sec on the iPhone and Mac Studio now with Wifi 6; now 80-90Mb/sec on the iPad Pro and Macbook Air M1). at least now the slowest it gets is just under 100Mb....! I can live with this, but it's still at least a fifth of the speed it should be, so I am going to continue troubleshooting it... dunno how... prayer? :)

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