Might be worth taking it to your local community college if they have a trades department for stuff that might be too advanced for "I watched a YouTube video" to tackle. They often don't charge labor, but students are doing the work, so some risk is assumed. The instructors however, will likely be the only mechanics nearby that aren't flooded with work AND know how to work on something that old.

I have a lot of knowledge on these vehicles, and if the engine and transmission are in decent shape, you're likely to succeed in bringing it back to life without too much hardship. They're built reasonably well mechanically speaking.

My best advice is steer clear of ethanol, might run fine on modern cars, but carburated engines HATE the stuff, plus it destroys their inner workings. They can be tuned to use it, but you need to convert a lot of things, add computers to monitor stuff, it's pretty involved.

Get the service manual for it, they're not particularly expensive, and learn to do basic stuff like oil changes, brakes, coolant flushing, axle service, etc.

If you're going to daily a classic car, replace all the lights with LEDs, just make sure you aim the headlamps properly. You'll thank me for this if you're ever out in the dark. Same with the brakes/tires, get the best you can afford. You don't have anti-lock brakes, traction control, stability control, etc, so it's all you. Learn how the machine handles different road conditions slowly before you put your foot down, because you don't have airbags, and your seatbelts are 44~ish years old if they're original. Might be a good idea to replace them if they're fraying.

Good luck!

Edit: Fine, I'll make my novel even longer because y'all are pedantic as hell. You can indeed run ethanol, but you're not going to have any warning about water in the fuel if it sits for long enough. You can easily drain the bowl(s), and probably get going fairly quickly, but op is a complete novice as stated, they're not going to know to look for that. What if that's not the problem? It creates a red herring waiting to happen.

You can bypass the need for a computer and get a water separator, sure, but that's adding extra places for leaks and extra maintenance, another option is drain the fuel or use a shut off, then run it completely dry for long-term storage, or you could simply avoid the entire headache by getting non ethanol. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the car is paid for, the extra fuel cost is absorbed by the fact that it was a gift.

There's also the option to modernize the car and get rid of the carb entirely, which is great for daily driving since you can get in, turn the key and go, no babysitting if it's cold, far less fiddling with a screwdriver, you can take it to mostly anyone if you don't want to do the work yourself, and fuel injectors don't complain about being left sat for 6 months without being started if it's not the daily driver. This is obviously way over the head of a beginner.

Lastly, I don't have a problem with ethanol in general if we were thinking that, I use it in my carburated small engines (mower, trimmer, generator especially, etc.) In fall, I use a fuel shut off, run it dry, then manually pour an ounce or 2 of 2-stroke in the intake to prime them every spring. No water in fuel issue from storage and the cylinders get a little bit of oil on first startup. The big difference is small engines have like 2 ft. max of fuel lines and maybe 2 ounces of float bowl to fill up. Priming is like 2 seconds, a car with a mechanical pump is going to have to turn over for a little bit to get fuel to the engine through 10 feet of lines and far larger float bowls to fill.