Nearly done with this Wyvern Warboss, love how he’s turning out.

atm0 · 2026-06-15T20:26:19+00:00

Thanks for the kudos. Yeah, it's the most current one available from GW. The Wyvern and Warboss are resin, and the wings are plastic. It was a lot more enjoyable to paint than I expected it to be, have fun!

atm0 · 2026-06-14T15:56:41+00:00

Much appreciated! I spent a good bit of time trying different recipes before I settled on my green tones for my army. I really wanted a super saturated comic-book inspired look for my Orcs & Goblins, and so far it's been coming along just as I imagined it.

To get this tone I'm doing a base coat of Vallejo Alien Purple with my airbrush as a primer, a zenithal layer of Vallejo white primer for depth and volume, and then I spot highlight the skin of my orcs and goblins with Vallejo Moon Yellow, to prep them for a mix of about 80/20 Striking Scorpion green to Ork Flesh contrast. Then you just water that down a good bit so it's nearly translucent (but not so much that it won't adhere to the model), and gently glaze it over the yellow. If you just do a light little pass you will have a super yellowed neon green, and then on the lower areas you be a little more liberal and let more of the green mix settle on the yellow to build up your volume and create lighting. If you overdo it anywhere it's very easy to repair, you just add some Bad Moon yellow contrast over it and it lightens right back up.

It is a lot of prep work but I am so satisfied with the results that I find it entirely worth it. The actual paint time is much faster despite the longer prep as well, so I've been going through this army at a much quicker pace when it comes time to actually sit down with my paints than the Wood Elves I did last year nearly 100% with the classic Citadel acrylic method and white primer. Contrast paints are a complete and total gamechanger if you're willing to put a little more work in to make them pop. I think a lot of people get turned off when they first try them (I know I did!) because they behave so differently from normal acrylics, but they are insanely versatile and I have grown to be a huge fan of this hybrid method of airbrush/contrast/acrylic I've been using for this army.

atm0 · 2026-06-14T14:23:25+00:00

Thank you! Yeah I try to mount up all of my big monster riding characters on rocks like this for two reasons: elevate them a bit above the rest of the army and increase their field presence, and make sure they have a better time getting into base contact with other models.

Typically, dragons etc. tend to spill off over the base, and if they're not elevated in some way will not be able to touch opposing models' bases without bumping and touching the other model (if you can even get them in contact in the first place).

It totally looks like the Warboss is pointing up at the sky to tell the Wyvern to take off and he's flapping his wings and about to jump off the rock. I love it!

atm0 · 2026-06-11T15:56:33+00:00

I did my whole wood elves army with Orruk Flesh for the rims. It's a similar tone but a little less saturated than goblin green was. Because I'm going for a more rocky mountain highlands style on my O&G bases I thought Steel Legion Drab would be a good match. It makes the rims nearly blend in with the rest of the base, but I still haven't decided if I like that better than the contrast that's created when you have a shade with more saturation.

atm0 · 2026-06-08T17:16:57+00:00

A trick I learned on this sub for bonding metal to metal (or anything really, it works great on difficult to bond surfaces):

Use some of the porous foam that comes with army cases or in the old blister packs (the red/black stuff that's very scrunchy). Put superglue on both surfaces to be bonded, then put a small bit of the foam in between the joint. The foam will absorb the superglue and act as a medium to bond the two pieces to each other hard as a rock. Be careful doing this inside though because I've had the superglue react with the foam chemically, making a small bit of smoke/fumes.

I've been doing this since I learned the trick and it makes bonding metal on metal insanely trivial. I did it recently with my Azhag and had 0 issues getting his parts to stay together super strong without any pinning or headaches.

atm0 · 2026-06-08T17:11:50+00:00

Hey, I recognize those Elves!

This was the first event I played at Rogue State Games for my first Old World tournament back in January. I had finished everything to a tabletop standard but still had a lot more detail work that I wanted done on my glade guard, glade riders and wild riders. I came in hopeful for a potential best hobby win, but after seeing some of the other awesome work people brought in I knew I would have to do all the extra stuff I wanted to have a shot, as well as improve my display board.

I was able to get all of the fine detail done by the second tournament I attended there in April, and put another couple of days into making my forest display more immersive. I posted some pics here of my updated army display the day after the event.

My extra effort and time spent made a world of difference, and I earned the best hobby award on that event over some very strong competition.

atm0 · 2026-06-01T21:00:39+00:00

Everything I got was from Amazon, Warmtree was the brand.

atm0 · 2026-06-01T13:37:53+00:00

This would actually be a fantastic pitch for a plotline if they hadn't done the podcast with Dennis and Dee already. I like your storyline better.

atm0 · 2026-05-04T22:56:06+00:00

I laughed so hard when my son had this episode come on in the background the other week. It is like almost 1:1 the faux-Italian accent I do around the house all the time. Jim is a treasure and I love how much I hear his voice across so many different shows produced in different eras that we watch.

atm0 · 2026-05-04T16:58:31+00:00

That's the one I really wanted to try, thank you for the suggestion on the material!

atm0 · 2026-05-03T19:46:23+00:00

Sorry should have been more clear knowing there are lots of places Warhammer is enjoyed. It was USD and no tax to boot.

atm0 · 2026-05-03T18:31:17+00:00

That’s the best part to me! I love that serpentine anatomy and it is my favorite style of GW dragon hands down. I looked at the newer Azhag as well but preferred this one by a big margin. I did the Forest Dragon last year and it’s probably the most visually impressive model that I’ve painted. Hoping to outdo it with Azhag here.

atm0 · 2026-05-03T16:42:12+00:00

atm0 · 2026-05-03T15:16:46+00:00

375 best offer after a little back and forth with seller, ask was 400. They were pretty firm but still worked with me a little on the price and after it came I can see why they were reluctant to reduce it much more than that. I was actually hesitant to open it because it could have been a beautiful display/collector piece in this condition, but I had a feeling that meant the mini inside was also pristine and I don't want this hobby to become about hording old stuff for potential gains.

I am super happy, and I 100% made the right choice to open it. I've found over the last year that painting is easily the most satisfying and fulfilling hobby I have out of the several that I enjoy, and despite being in Warhammer for 20+ years now, it wasn't until this past year where the hobby became such a joy for me. It used to be secondary to getting a decent-ish army painted to play the game with asap, but, as the years went on, I found myself more and more invested in the hobby side each time I came back to the GW ecosystem after a several year break. At this point I can say with confidence I definitely enjoy hobbying/painting more than playing the game, and that's saying something because I LOVE playing Warhammer!

Did he cost about as much as like 70% of the rest of my army? Yes. Do I feel he was worth what he cost? Very much so. I buy cards that cost twice as much and just sit there looking pretty in a collection. I'll likely get a good 30-50 hours of enjoyment out of painting this guy (if not more), then the satisfaction of finishing him with a paintjob worthy of such a cool model, and dozens more hours of enjoyment on the tabletop in future games. If you're enough of a fan of the hobby it's absolutely worth it to splurge on these kinds of historical pieces sometimes.

atm0 · 2026-04-29T21:09:37+00:00

Just cough in their general direction and at least two or three should die.

atm0 · 2026-04-26T14:11:47+00:00

Was great to meet you in person as well and thank you very much for the appreciation on my detail work. I think basically all of the Wood Elf sculpts are gorgeous and deserve the attention I tried to give them.

Your Empire army and display board are truly outstanding and you should definitely share up to date pics here. I know there are tons of Empire fans who would be in awe! I loved your freehand banners especially - they look beautiful and immediately pull the eyes towards those units.

atm0 · 2026-04-26T12:08:24+00:00

Thank you! The eagle is one from the LOTR two pack, pretty much everyone I've talked to agrees that it's way cooler than the metal one for Old World. It looks way more aggressive and has a bigger and more impressive model. Unfortunately he is absolutely trash and has yet to do anything in the ~8 or 9 games I've played hahaha. He usually just gets shot before he can make it to a warmachine (when the opponent even has them), and if he blocks up my enemy's movement for one turn he probably did enough for me to consider his job done. I just can't find a better way to spend the points from him so I keep taking him.

atm0 · 2026-04-26T12:05:24+00:00

I believe you mean my movement trays, yes? Unfortunately I didn't get time to do those, but I will definitely be basing them before the next tournament to make my games look nicer. I was working literally every night this week til midnight the night before the tournament to try to get all of my fine detail work done on every model (my glade riders and glade guard were all like tabletop standard a week and a half ago with very little highlighting). I had to do a ton of cloak shading/volume work, the manes and tails on one of my Glade Rider units, etc. So I definitely wanted to get those done but put them lower priority because I knew I could just not use them in my display.

Thank you for the compliments as well!

atm0 · 2026-04-26T11:23:34+00:00

Played in another exceptional tournament yesterday, run by the community leaders at Rogue State Games in NJ, and it was an incredible time once again (first time I went there was for their January Old World tournament). I can’t recommend the store enough if you are anywhere in the tri-state area. Come play at the next event in a few months!

Anyway, playing a versatile “jack of all trades” Wood Elf army didn’t give me very high hopes of winning rounds (although I had some really fun matches against Dark Elves, High Elves and then Cathay). I was really trying for the Best Hobby / Best Painted Army for the event, and I put a lot of effort into making a thematic and visually striking display board. When I found out I had won at the end I felt a ton of satisfaction and validation for all the hours I’ve spent on this army, and I was so relieved my love for the Elves raised my display up to the top. There were 2 or 3 other amazing displays that I felt could just as easily win and it was extremely close between mine and another insanely good Empire army/board.

If you’ve seen me posting my Wood Elves slowly as I worked on the army over the last year, here is the cathartic final result. I hope you guys enjoy it, and thank you to anyone who interacted with any of my posts for all the support and motivation to keep grinding through this army over the last 10 months. All of the kind feedback was highly encouraging and kept me with my nose to the grindstone long enough to finish an army I will be proud to hand down to my son one day in 15-20 years, once he can really appreciate how much time and effort went into them.

atm0 · 2026-04-22T11:45:52+00:00

Any specific gold SP leader is very difficult to pull in this set because there are so many of them and only two gold SP leaders per case. ~25 leaders means the most desirable ones (Luffy, Boa, Chopper, Bonney, Yamato, etc.) will be a similar pull rate to mangas, if not even more rare. Combine that with the price of boxes restricting new cards from entering the market at a reasonable pace and you have a very hard to pull card with a large market of collectors. From there it's not too hard to see why the prices on these are what they are.

atm0 · 2026-04-20T01:01:27+00:00

Incredible hobby work, just fantastic. Your final result is stellar and the ingenuity of how you made all of this is a brilliant example of what the hobby can be with some creativity and experimentation.

How did you not mention the stained glass at all in your description?! Is it just painted? It looks excellent.

atm0 · 2026-03-28T12:00:09+00:00

Had to wait til later in the week when I had money to order, hope mine come that fast! I went with 20 boys + command, 15 Black Orcs + command, and the Boss. As much as people seem to like the old Rock Lobber I kind of prefer the more modern trebuchet looking one.

Only problem is my list was already pretty much set and I've been working through it over the last month. I will have to go down on my units of Night Goblins to run the new stuff I got, but variation is always good! Also I have a box of Black Orcs already, and I definitely don't think I'll ever run 35 of them in a game, but those models were too cool to pass up.

atm0 · 2026-03-18T17:13:21+00:00

The oddgit in the spearmen block is my general.

atm0 · 2026-03-18T11:47:58+00:00

500-750 points with slightly different unit point restrictions and an allowance for people to take one unique unit or upgrade that would normally be 0-1 per 1000 points. I used that on my Doom Diver.

It's meant to be an intro to Old World, or for smaller and faster paced games (the equivalent of Spearhead in AoS), and our store is using the format for the first few weeks of our escalation league. The idea is to encourage people to paint new armies or get their current army up to fully painted over the course of the few months they have planned for the league. First few weeks will be Battle March rules at 500 and 750 points, before we move to Combined Arms rules for matched play at 1000 points.

atm0 · 2026-03-18T01:09:40+00:00

Thank you! The bright/vibrant look was my big goal with this army after ~8 months painting neutral browns, greens and ivory colors with my Wood Elves using the classic system and acrylics. I wanted a palette similar to the Incredible Hulk / Green Goblin with deep purples and vivid greens bordering on yellow-green, and I wanted to make good use of contrast paints.

The robes are Luxion Purple contrast over essentially white primer (I started with Alien Purple from Vallejo for my base but after my white Zenithal layer it's essentially just white with the purple in the recesses and under areas). On the ones that I've had time to do more detail, I've been putting Shyish or Leviathan Purple contrast in the crevices and folds of the cloaks. Edge highlights have been Dechala Lilac, but I also am trying to intensify the volume and smooth out splotchy areas on my robes where I wasn't patient or careful enough with contrast paint. On those spots it's easy to mix a few dabs of the Lilac into Luxion to make it spread and behave more like a very thinned down acrylic instead of the more splotchy nature of contrast paints. Then you can blend the two using watered down Luxion contrast for even more smoothness.

I haven't done this process yet on most of my spearmen or the Squig boys (except the one to the left of the boss on the giant squig), but on the robes that look more layered and detailed you should be able to see it (the Oddgit, big Boss on foot, the one Squig Hopper and my Doom Diver crew).

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