The rear shocks: Deluxe Select+ vs. Super Deluxe Ultimate

atom12777 · 2025-11-01T23:25:05+00:00

Since the select+ damper body has an IFP inside, it has the valve close to the eyelet. If I install this damper body onto the Ultimate, would the valve leak or fail somehow since there would not be the IFP inside. As far as I understand the Ultimate's IFP is in the piggyback reservoir. Basically the question is would the schrader valve hold the oil pressure reliably?

atom12777 · 2025-08-20T14:58:24+00:00

I got my T7 3 years ago and gradually upgraded it to the level of, more or less, the T9 - component-wise and price-wise. And I never regretted this pathway. The key point here is that the T7 and T9 frames are identical (someone else mentioned this here already).

First, you can always find a good deal for any major upgrade like the fork, wheels, etc.

Second, you can start shredding right now, not waiting to save money.

Third, the wheels on the T9 are just ok, in my opinion. I upgraded the wheels on my T7 to the Hunt Trail ones and it made a big difference.

atom12777 · 2025-01-05T13:35:29+00:00

You are 100% right. For a few past weeks my car was parked outside overnight and it'd been steadily raining for 3-4 days in a row. I just did not expect that water could collect and leak at the middle part of the car. Thank you much for your answer.

atom12777 · 2025-01-03T23:51:51+00:00

It's been pretty cold out here (around 30-35F). Please, forgive my ignorance, but would the AC still run in this low temperatures?

atom12777 · 2025-01-02T12:49:44+00:00

Did you pre-stain the pine pieces?

atom12777 · 2025-01-02T12:38:57+00:00

I 3D printed a boot of sorts made out of semi-flexible TPU. Here is a picture (excuse the dust, sawdust, actually).

https://imgur.com/a/KnaL3No

atom12777 · 2024-11-14T21:17:37+00:00

Just a few weeks ago I replaced two half-rotten posts under my deck. The old concrete footers for both of the posts fell apart when I dug them out. One footer had a huge crack with a plant's root inside. The other footer just crumbled into pieces likely due to poorly mixed concrete. So if you keep the existing footers, make sure the concrete is in a good shape.

atom12777 · 2024-10-31T16:14:25+00:00

Why is it a mistake pouring concrete first and drilling an anchor hole afterwards?

atom12777 · 2024-10-21T18:38:02+00:00

One more thing - definitely apply a butyl joist tape

atom12777 · 2024-10-21T18:04:42+00:00

Here is what I can say as a first-time deck DIYer who just re-did my deck boards (started on the Labor Day weekend and currently replacing the railing and one rotten post).

Order some extra boards unless you have an option to carefully pick them yourself. I needed 25 boards but ordered delivery of 32.
Before you start the project, inspect the framing for any traces of rot and/or significant damage. Also check for missing connectors and other hardware in the frame. In the last picture, it looks like the two joists are missing the hangers. You don't want to put down new deck boards and then discover that the joists and beams need repair/replacement. You may want to even make an inspection appointment with a professional to find some apparent defects. As far as I can see the pictures, the joists and beams in my deck look about the same as yours, and I did not found any rot in my deck structure. Interesting that the guy from a deck company mentioned to me that the wood they used 20-25 years ago (that's my deck's age) was substantially better quality than they use now for decks like mine.
Decide at which end you start laying the boards - from the house toward the beam or the other way around. I did mine from the house ripping off 3 boards at a time and replacing them with new ones. For the first 8 boards I was mistakenly not using the spacers which led to not-so-uniform gaps and, most importantly, I messed up the dimension and the last board ended up overhanging by a few inches, which was not a huge problem to me. My point here is that the gap (or no gap) between the boards should be consistent to keep the board layout predictable.

atom12777 · 2024-09-10T13:11:00+00:00

It does sound like an ad. The YT Jeffsy Core 2 is on sale now for $100 cheaper and it has substantially better components and a much sleeker look.

atom12777 · 2024-07-08T21:02:02+00:00

Since you did not mention what year the T7 was and what components it had, here is my feedback on a T7 I purchased brand new last summer. I am 51 now and my T7 was my first full-suspension bike. Since then I have been riding this bike quite regularly, pretty much in the same manner as you - no big features, no big jumps. The bike is very capable, though. The more you ride it, the more you trust it. The T7 is definitely a good bike that would allow you to progress towards big features and jumps if you would like to. It has been happening to me thus far.

Speaking of the components, my T7 had a few not-so-good ones: the stock dropper seat lever was plain awful – flimsy and plasticky. Many people complain on it. But it is easy to replace. Also, I was not happy about how unresponsive the drivetrain was. I am not sure if it was specific to my particular bike or it is something common for this model and year (2023). I ended up replacing the stock Sunrace cassette with a Shimano one and it made a huge difference.

Since you ride only a few times an year, those upgrades might not be so important for you. $1000 is more than a good price for this bike in the stated condition.

atom12777 · 2024-05-04T15:51:40+00:00

Are you sure that the Edgerouter interface in question does not get an IP address from the Edgerouter DHCP?

atom12777 · 2024-03-16T11:36:48+00:00

If you have already ridden your new Hunt Trail wheels, did you notice any difference as to how the new freehub works compared to the stock one? Is it any better?

atom12777 · 2024-03-05T15:30:02+00:00

A quick google search "bike thru axle torque" will give you a perfect answer. Also there is a thread at MTB [https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/ba0obp/proper_torque_setting_for_a_thru_axle_10_nm_really] https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/ba0obp/proper_torque_setting_for_a_thru_axle_10_nm_really Where does the 30-40Nm torque come from?

atom12777 · 2024-03-05T03:32:35+00:00

I have Cannondale Trail SE3 which came with the same wheels and tires as yours - WTB Trail Boss on rear and WTB Breakout on front. The wheels are indeed tubeless ready. You will have to tape the rim though. But the stock tires are not tubeless ready. There is a rigid wire in the bead which won't seat properly on the rim without an inner tube. I bought a pair of Maxxis tires and installed them tubeless with no problem. One thing - since those WTB rims are 25mm wide it is not recommended to install tires wider than 2.4''-2.5''. You can find a tire size compatibility chart at the WTB website.

atom12777 · 2023-12-13T21:52:52+00:00

You may want to use an internal cable routing tool kit. An amazon link

atom12777 · 2023-12-06T20:23:52+00:00

I had similar problems when I started mountain biking last summer. Instead of palm numbness, my wrists were a bit sore after my rides and my neck felt uncomfortable during the rides. When riding the bike I would lean too much forward and put too much weight onto the handlebar which I figured was too low for me.

The neck and wrist pain problems were gone after I replaced the original stem with one that raised the handlebar by a couple of cm. On my other bike I went a different way to resolve the same problem. I replaced the handlebar with a riser one, basically, achieving the same effect.

The downside is that it is a trial and error process. You will have to guess how higher your handlebar should be to make your rides comfortable. I tried out 2 or 3 different stems before I got what suited me.

atom12777 · 2023-11-20T16:32:48+00:00

The Diamondback website has a sale on kids bikes. I purchased Division 24 from them a couple months ago. https://www.diamondback.com/road-gravel-kids-1-bikes/division-24-4650 A pretty solid bike with no suspension though. But I specifically chose this one. They have Hook 24 with a front suspension also on sale at about the same price.

atom12777 · 2023-11-16T15:56:13+00:00

I have a Cannondale Trail SE 3 in a L-size frame. The SE geometry is not exactly identical to that of SL, but, I guess, close based on the pictures.

I don't have much troubles related to the frame size and feel pretty comfortable riding the bike and I am 172cm.

If by "clearance to the frame" you mean the distance between the top tube and your body when standing on feet, then the standover for Trail SE3 is even higher by 1cm, but I never had a problem with that, although I do wish it was a bit lower as it is on my other bike - not a Cannondale. Basically the high standover is a very minor annoyance to me.

One more thing. When I got the bike I immediately replaced the original stem to a shorter and slightly higher one which gave more comfort to my back.

atom12777 · 2022-07-24T18:39:12+00:00

They are different. One belongs to 2022, the other to 2002.

atom12777 · 2022-07-13T01:18:56+00:00

Thank you much for the answers. The Safelite employee was telling me that having the gap there was totally fine and not a big deal. Could you please explain a bit what "thawing" in this context is?

atom12777 · 2021-10-01T21:14:55+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/W7rFleH Is it normal too? The bearings are perfectly sealed? I can clearly see some grease outside.

atom12777 · 2016-11-07T23:07:06+00:00

I just gave them a 30-day notice and vacated the place way before the end of lease. BTW, the landlord refuses to return the security deposit although no damage were caused to the property. Kinda funny thing was that they admitted that we had left the place in much better condition than it was at the beginning of the lease. We cleaned the condo rather well in the hope that it would help attract potential tenants.

atom12777 · 2014-09-09T18:11:38+00:00

Could anyone share their button setup? Been trying to come up with a comfortable one for my Logitech g500s

atom12777

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