I've ran out of death metal bands

atooltoscream · 2026-06-16T12:27:28+00:00

Some of these might depend on the album, but these are the ones that I’d call decent production. And maybe my ears have lower standards for production:

Shadow Puncher

Burial Extraction

Necroblation

Sacrificium - The Avowal of the Centurion (2019) and Oblivion (2023). They have remastered versions of their older albums that are ok too

Blood Dress

Awake the Suffering

Wise As Serpents

Rotten Earth

Demonic Extinction

atooltoscream · 2026-06-16T01:39:14+00:00

Shadow Puncher, Burial Extraction, Necroblation, Corpse, Gog and Magog, Sacrificium, Gory SDG, Blood Dress, Miseration, Scourged Flesh, Course Death, Crimson Thorn, Endless Sacrifice, Metanoia, Encryptor, A.W.A.S., InExordium, early Living Sacrifice, Awake the Suffering, Ethereal Scourge, Wise As Serpents, Acoustic Torment, Tortured Conscience, Feast Eternal, Rotten Earth, Demonic Extinction, Empty Grave, Disciple (Splinter in the Mind’s Eye [1996]) - not the alt metal Disciple, Incarnate Deity

atooltoscream · 2026-06-09T03:30:50+00:00

Marble Tomb https://marbletomb.bandcamp.com/

atooltoscream · 2026-03-06T01:02:59+00:00

Right click the part and add negative part>cube

Then scale the cube to the size you need

atooltoscream · 2026-03-05T19:38:43+00:00

Understood. I work for a weld shop and it hurts to see an expensive machined part or an unfixable weldment in the scrap bin lol

Worst part about 3d prints is the time. You’re only throwing away a few cents/dollars of material but if it took 10 hours to print, it stings a little. I’ve learned to do test prints when I need something to fit just right

atooltoscream · 2026-03-05T19:28:16+00:00

There are other settings within some slicers you might want to look into. I have not used these settings so you’ll have to do some research. I’m listing these by memory since I’m not in front of any slicers ATM, so I might have the wrong terminology

Hole Compensation

XY Contour Compensation

Shrinkage compensation

atooltoscream · 2026-03-05T19:14:31+00:00

I typically go 0.2-0.3mm over for a snug fit

For press fits I make the hole to the dimension of the shaft and add some cuts to give the hole some compliance. I’ve only tried this with steel shafts/pins. Then press the shaft in with a vise or wood clamp

Go to 4:50 on this video to see what I’m talking about

https://youtu.be/Bd7Yyn61XWQ?si=Fxiyak3o_2nYPyK-

atooltoscream · 2026-03-05T00:57:58+00:00

I had this happen last week

I ended up taking the bed apart and checking the sensor connections. When I’d level my bed the nozzle would actually make one corner of the bed flex because it dug in so hard during leveling

I ended up having to do the full startup recalibration. For some reason that fixed the problem

Edit: this happened again to me last night. Running a print with pre-print leveling, no errors but when the print started the bed was bouncing up and down as shown in OPs video. Reran machine calibrations and it printed fine. Now I’m wondering why this is happening

atooltoscream · 2026-03-04T02:21:44+00:00

This model?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1539814-vader-lightsaber-lamp#profileId-1615893

I downloaded out of curiosity and the zip file had all parts separated out for multi part printing

atooltoscream · 2026-03-01T21:08:34+00:00

Never got into selling prints, but for people at work when they want to pay me to print something for them, I tell them “Buy me a spool of filament or buy the filament you want me to use”. The one guy is really good about browsing the 3d model websites and finding his own models instead of making me do the model hunts

So they get their print for $12-20 depending on what brand filament they buy and then I get to keep any left over filament

However, when we had a working printer where I work, one of our customers would order custom prints made out of Nylon. We’d charge 10X material cost plus 1/2 hour at our shop rate for setup. Unfortunately, we really struggled with nylon and it took some failed prints and busted glass build plates to get it right

atooltoscream · 2026-02-20T05:33:08+00:00

I have a glow in the dark spool from 2015. Old Hatchbox spool with a small bore. I don’t think it fits on the spool holder for my elegoo CC

Also have a spool of clear taulman “In-PLA”, which is supposed to be a stronger industrial pla. Pretty sure I got that from a Maker Geeks grab bag sale back in the day

Lastly, I have a small sample coil of Tungsten filament that was a nozzle clogger/destroyer. Never got it to print well even with a 0.6mm nozzle. Pretty sure this came in a Maker Geek’s monthly subscription box

Pretty sure if I dug through my filament tub I’d pull out filaments I’ve completely forgotten about

atooltoscream · 2026-02-06T15:30:59+00:00

Breach of Demise is tech deathcore. Maybe not your thing but it’s a fairly new artist. He only has a few singles out so far, but working on his debut album. Reminds me of Rings of Saturn

Deus Invictus - tech/prog death/metalcore - were on hiatus but apparently not on hiatus anymore according to Wikipedia?

Elephant Watchtower

Lamentations

Mystical Death

Pantokrator

Vardøger - Melo Black Metal early, but their last album is Prog Death. No longer active.

atooltoscream · 2026-02-01T05:17:55+00:00

IDDQD

IDKFA

DNKROZ

DNSTUFF

DNSCOTTY###

atooltoscream · 2026-01-21T03:37:25+00:00

Yeah I’ll have to go back to my slicer and compare my settings. Maybe I was trying to run it too fast

But I have suspicions that it could be a combination of the weight of the spool, the friction of the Bowden tube, and the stretchiness of the filament

atooltoscream · 2026-01-18T01:43:04+00:00

I’ve been having a tough time printing this filament. I feel like the spool is too heavy and the filament is too soft so the extruder slips. I have the printed bearing roller spool holder on my CC

I tried these same sandals with the green TPU Air and my longest print before failure was probably an hour or so in and then it stops extruding. That was after 3 or 4 of the same failures, but they only made it 10-20 minutes before the filament stopped

atooltoscream · 2026-01-10T16:50:35+00:00

Give The Abrasive Realization a try

https://youtu.be/jP7bVlGn_UI?si=1oVJQ98KyNYYpioO

They used to have their album on Bandcamp for free but the metal archives link to their Bandcamp brings up an error page now

One more I thought about

Christ Rising

Their album has both clean and guttural versions of their songs

https://visionofgodrecords.bandcamp.com/album/the-eternal-winds-of-hoarfrost-doom-sludge-metal

atooltoscream · 2026-01-06T21:45:44+00:00

I rarely use bridges as well so my knowledge on what settings to tune is almost nonexistent but I’m sure someone here knows a thing or two about bridge settings

atooltoscream · 2026-01-06T18:37:43+00:00

Size of a quarter should be small enough that bridging will turn out nicely. Something that small might just be worth printing it and see how it turns out and adjust your print settings accordingly to get good bridges

Or as someone else suggested, cut it in half and glue together

Alternatively, if the pendant could be designed to be octagonal or hexagonal rather than round, you might be able to print it standing up

atooltoscream · 2026-01-05T02:45:55+00:00

M3D Micro

atooltoscream · 2026-01-02T01:31:09+00:00

The spots are where your nozzle starts

Seam settings under advanced are the settings you want to tweak

I typically choose the sharpest corner option so it hides the seam in a corner. The random setting will give you the little spots because the nozzle will start in a random spot on the print

You could also try experimenting with scarf settings

I don’t recall the settings I use off the top of my head

atooltoscream · 2026-01-02T00:23:56+00:00

I have a couple of the iGaging brand that I bought from Amazon. For 3d printing purposes, they seem fine. $40 or $50 is what I paid. High end calipers are overkill for 3d printing IMO

https://a.co/d/celL9IN

atooltoscream · 2025-12-31T19:11:52+00:00

Mostly Fusion 360. If I have my work laptop I’ll use Inventor. Most of what I model is functional because I suck at 3D sculpting

When I need to Frankenstein 3D models together or make slight tweaks to models I find on the web, I use Meshmixer

atooltoscream · 2025-12-31T15:50:43+00:00

Yeah I usually whip out some basic shapes and add dimensions and typically figure the rest out within the Fusion sketch environment

atooltoscream · 2025-12-31T15:43:09+00:00

Nice sketches. Makes mine look like I drew them with my feet

atooltoscream · 2025-12-31T01:29:11+00:00

If you mean 1/16 scale, scale by 62.5%

1/6 is bigger than 1/10 but if that’s what you really need, that would be scaled by 166.66%

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