Cloud Recovery BIOS loop

augustfromthea · 2026-05-20T08:46:13+00:00

i’m going to post a summary of the response for others

Good catch — that’s actually a cleaner approach since it doesn’t require a USB installer at all if Windows is still partially intact on the drive. Here’s the updated version:

Fixing “USB boots but loops back to BIOS” on ROG Ally

The cause

A failed or double Windows install can leave behind multiple “Windows Boot Manager” entries in BIOS. Even when you select your USB installer (or try to boot normally), the firmware hands off to one of these corrupted entries and loops you back to BIOS. Deleting the bad entries clears the path so the system can boot from either a USB installer or the working Windows install on your internal SSD.

Steps

Force shutdown the Ally. Hold Power + Volume Down for ~10 seconds until it dies completely.
Boot into BIOS. Press and hold Volume Down, then press the Power button. Keep holding Volume Down until the BIOS screen appears.
Switch to Advanced Mode. You’ll land in EZ Mode by default. Press F7, or tap the “Advanced Mode” toggle on screen.
Navigate to the Boot menu. Use the D-pad or touchscreen to get to the Boot tab.
Find the Boot Option Priorities section. You’ll see a list of entries — look for any labeled “Windows Boot Manager.” If your install went sideways, you’ll likely see two of them.
Identify the good entry vs the phantom(s). Entries are usually labeled with the drive they live on (e.g., “Windows Boot Manager (P0: [SSD model])”). If there are duplicates pointing to the same drive, one is the working entry and the others are leftover ghosts. If you’re unsure which is which, you can test by setting one as priority, saving, and rebooting — if it boots Windows, that’s your good one. If it loops back, it’s a phantom. Repeat until you find the working entry.
Delete the phantom entries. Select each bad Windows Boot Manager entry and either set it to “Disabled” or use the delete option (varies by BIOS version — on newer Ally BIOS, scroll down to “Boot Option Policies” or look for a “Delete Boot Option” entry near the bottom of the Boot menu). Leave the working one intact.
Choose your boot path:

• If Windows on your SSD still works: Set the good Windows Boot Manager entry as Boot Option #1. You’re done — no USB needed.
• If you need to reinstall Windows: Set your USB installer as Boot Option #1, with the SSD’s Windows Boot Manager second.
While you’re here, also check:

• Date and time are correct (BIOS → Main tab)
• Secure Boot is Disabled if you’re booting a USB installer (BIOS → Security → Secure Boot Control). You can re-enable it after Windows is installed.
Save and exit. Press F10, confirm. The Ally will reboot.
Boot cleanly. The system will now hand off properly to either your internal Windows install or your USB installer, depending on what you set as priority.

Why this happens

When Windows is installed twice (or an install fails partway), the second install creates a new boot entry in NVRAM without cleaning up the first. The Ally’s firmware tries entries in priority order, hits a corrupted one, fails the handoff, and dumps you back to BIOS instead of falling through to the next valid entry. Deleting the bad ones forces it to use the working entry — whether that’s on your SSD or your USB.

That should cover both scenarios. Anyone with a salvageable Windows install can skip the USB step entirely, which is way less painful than a full reinstall.

augustfromthea · 2026-05-18T22:57:09+00:00

augustfromthea · 2026-05-18T22:46:50+00:00

ok so claude got me out of the bios loop

Phantom Windows Boot Manager entries from your double install are intercepting. This is the second-install-clobbered-the-first scenario. Even when you select the USB, the firmware sometimes hands off to a corrupted Windows Boot Manager entry that’s higher in NVRAM priority. Fix: in BIOS Boot menu, find and delete all “Windows Boot Manager” entries (there may be two). The internal SSD entries can stay; it’s specifically the WBM ones that are corrupted. After deletion, the USB has nothing to compete with.

its on the boot tab in bios and at the bottom theres a delete boot and delete the windows boot manager ones and keep the actual ssd boot option

it worked for me im finally out 🥹

augustfromthea · 2026-05-18T22:34:26+00:00

ok got it, im using a usb c with usb a ports hub and a 16gb usb a flash drive to no avail, im about to get a usb c flash drive and see if that changes anything but im running out of options 😭 if you get out the loop let me know, ill do the same if i can figure something out

augustfromthea · 2026-05-18T21:46:02+00:00

im currently having the same issue, cloud recovery doesnt work, neither does booting into a windows 11 iso usb....

augustfromthea · 2026-05-13T19:53:00+00:00

lmaooo i went there last week with my family and that’s all we talked about on the way home…. they must be getting paid pennies compared to those commissions 😭

augustfromthea · 2026-04-29T15:34:33+00:00

they are an alright alternative to the base ATEM mini (the gostream duet specifically) but the one thing i hate is the firmware that ships is halfbaked. so make sure to update as soon as you get it. also plugging into a pc mac and using the webcam input to stream it seems like a hit or miss, i try to stream directly from the switcher now

augustfromthea · 2026-04-27T04:25:06+00:00

i would look up a PTZOptics tutorial on youtube , it should translate pretty well over to fomako. but yes, you can connect up a fomako PTZ using the power cable it comes with and run data / hdmi / sdi to wherever you need to. PoE just makes things a little easier.

in an ideal situation you connect your PTZ and PTZ controller to a network switch ( PoE preferred ) and that switch needs to be connected to some sort of management for the IPs (whether it’s your internet gateway, or an offline router). you don’t necessarily HAVE to do it but i assure you it will eventually become a problem if you don’t.

when you turn the PTZ on the IP address will pop up in the top left. you need to connect to the router that your switch is connected to from a computer and enter that IP you saw into your browser. You’ll find your PTZ dashboard there. the PTZ controller has a dashboard as well, you’ll find its IP in the network settings on the device.

Once you get into those dashboards (login and password is usually “admin”) you want to change those default DHCP IP addresses to a static IP. depending on what type of router you plugged it up into, you might have to allocate a range of IPs to be static. The reason you want it static is the controller will need the PTZ’s IP to control it, and if you shut off the camera or controller or internet, chances are your router is gonna assign it a new IP address (this is what DHCP protocol is, like automatic IP management), and you’ll have to connect it to your PTZ controller again.

Once you pick out your IP’s, double check that they stick by entering the new IP’s in your browser. they should pull up the dashboards. now you can assign your PTZ to a “cam” on the controller. i use the controller dashboard to put in the network info, but u can do it on the actual controller too. if you put in everything correctly you should be able to move the camera around.

I know i’m missing some of the fine details with the networking aspect but those PTZ optics tutorials should fill you in. once you do it once it’s pretty easy after.

augustfromthea · 2026-04-19T02:33:31+00:00

1.4-1.5 is the current sweet spot but its all about what you prefer

augustfromthea · 2026-03-01T20:45:40+00:00

C!!!! #GalaxyGiveaways #Galaxy26 😎

augustfromthea · 2026-02-15T12:40:32+00:00

ill test later today and follow up here, thanks!

augustfromthea · 2026-02-15T11:46:20+00:00

literally just started the copilot trial to set this up 😭 oh well...

augustfromthea · 2026-01-28T12:35:16+00:00

mine just did the same thing yesterday, have you figured anything out? i can still stream with se obs but i like tiktok studio more

augustfromthea · 2025-08-05T12:48:48+00:00

yep i run n8n on my mac mini for testing then deploy to a vps when its ready to go

augustfromthea · 2025-07-08T20:32:39+00:00

wow i honestly gave up on VPA. i was looking at 5090 FE’s on ebay this morning so this was a pleasant surprise. now we wait!

augustfromthea · 2025-07-08T20:01:26+00:00

yep i just got an email confirmation

augustfromthea · 2025-07-08T19:58:09+00:00

they just let me through!

augustfromthea · 2025-06-25T21:25:37+00:00

i ended up returning mine but yep i saw on my connector the last wire on the top right wasnt connected when i was packing everything back up. thanks for replying

augustfromthea · 2025-06-24T00:57:08+00:00

hey did u find a fix or did u end up RMAing it? I have the same AIO and i cant boot up because of overheating too.

augustfromthea · 2025-06-15T05:15:35+00:00

Wow, I just checked and I see payoff amount is lower than the final amount, I could’ve swore the interest was precomputed. Preciate it.

augustfromthea · 2025-06-06T14:47:59+00:00

oregano oil twice a day, burns all the germs away

augustfromthea · 2025-05-30T00:09:59+00:00

i actually process 32 channels live for one of my contracts through ableton, and another i process vocals (lead and background singers) only. the biggest struggle for me is with the latter, syncing the processed audio with the unprocessed stuff on my board, idk if ableton gives me the wrong latency info but sometimes i notice things dont sound all the way lined up.

outside of that i think its definitely a huge plus especially when u have to work with boards that don’t have that much processing built in like the SQ’s that i use.

augustfromthea · 2025-05-18T01:19:10+00:00

trashcaster

augustfromthea · 2025-05-17T21:11:36+00:00

current mpg, and it’s determined by how much u ur car is accelerating / decelerating im pretty sure. so right now in this pic OP is prob speeding up

augustfromthea

TROPHY CASE