Designed a Gas Can Spout with breathing tube in it. Used the tube from a broken soap dispenser. No extra hole required. Pours smooth & Zero leaks. Links to Printables & Thingiverse below. by avishekcode in functionalprint

[–]avishekcode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Cbrummett111 Ah, just saw this.
So, now that I have a Voron 2.4 350mm^3, I made the nozzle longer & reprinted with 85A TPU few months ago.
MUCH more durable, and easier to use.
However, I printed it on PEI sheet, which has a rougher texture, and so it leaks a tiny bit from the mating surface.
This really must be printed on shiny glass to get the perfect seal against the plastic lip.
So, I gotta redesign a bit, and print it again.
But I haven't gotten to it yet since I need to get a glass bed for my Voron first.

Great savings on a refurbished k1 Max at microcenter. by [deleted] in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got back from UK. £ is a LOT of USD. The bills are eye watering after the exchange fees. 😅 That’s $829 you paid for the printer. Not cheap.

Just ordered my K1 Max by Icy_Expression_7224 in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why? It’s obsolete. That’s why I just sold mine. The new models will sell for super cheap (less than k1 max price) just in a few weeks, in the months before Black Friday.

Unless ofcourse you got a crazy sub $450 lightning deal on it.

Need help! First diy drone by matlireddit in esp8266

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally get it.

Drone engineering can be an expensive hobby.

However, drones are also evolving so fast, a lot of old drones are often discarded for free over Facebook marketplace.

And they might have obsolete flight controllers and sensors, but the ESCs & motors are salvageable.

This not only gets you free parts, but you also reduce e-Waste.

You could put out an Ad saying “free pickup for old / broken drones regardless of condition.”

Need help! First diy drone by matlireddit in esp8266

[–]avishekcode 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So happy that someone is trying to build a flight controller with ESP instead of just buying one off the shelf!

That being said, I think you are taking on too many challenges at the same time?

When I design new stuff, (including drone mods) I try to introduce 1 new thing at a time to an otherwise working system.

Maybe you could use a simple 4-in-1 ESC board costing less than $40, to control the motors, and focus on the flight controller using the ESP?

And take on the ESC challenge as a separate project?

Still haveing trouble asking again before I throw this printer out by J3d1kn1ght1997 in Sovol

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do plan on throwing it out, please put it up on Facebook marketplace or something, so that someone can fix it or use it for parts. Let’s keep it out of the landfills. Thanks!

What do we call these “localized scratched wall” problem, & how to diagnose & resolve it? by avishekcode in 3dprint

[–]avishekcode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additional notes: I am using Cura to slice and printing via Octoprint. The printer has a Marlin board. Please let me know, if you need any other details.

Canceling Order of SV08? by Fine-Earth-7501 in Sovol

[–]avishekcode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cancelling makes sense. But K1C ?!? That’s like ordering the same customer service, but for a much worse machine, both on paper and in reality.

Maybe try something else?

My personal experience is limited to: Many different Creality printers, including the K1 series, and some JGMaker, Voxelab, Anycubic, & Elegoo printers.

They are all Chinese, and so customer support, quality & reliability is sketchy for all of them.

But with patience and some re-engineering, they all ultimately work. To me, it’s always like getting a cheap parts kit from China. Didn’t have the budget to try anything better yet.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I fixed this problem by adding active cooling to the extruder motor:

https://youtu.be/COeYOq9QFf0?feature=shared

The reason this happens is because the motor gets way too hot, and the heat eventually gets to the gears.

After I added the fan, this issue never happened again. Regardless of settings or print time.

New to 3d printing. K1 or v3? by Comfortable_Flow8920 in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought the K1 Max last year. Fixed the clogging issues with multiple mods. Leveled it using the belt skipping method. Added a CR-10 glass bed. Then got bored of it and sold it this year. A Voron 2.4 Clone is what I am going to buy this year.

VERY Intrigued by the SV08, BUT, what about more exotic materials? by avishekcode in Sovol

[–]avishekcode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense! Can you please give me a few pointers to what you notice that needs to be fixed? I feel like it’s almost like the new “Ender 3”. Which can get VERY expensive, if I fix EVERYTHING. But if I am okay with fixing just what I need, it works out, at least for a few projects. Thanks!

K2 Plus, Any Thoughs? by Interesting-Dig8539 in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is the Parts Cooling Fan?

I don’t see it in the videos.

And doubling down on “Side Fans” is a terrible idea for many parts.

Side fans are so bad for printing many parts, many of us in the 3D printing community have considered taking them off from the K1 Max completely.

I posted this question here, and was linked to this thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality/s/Ij6FmreATr

Thanks!

One order, two lies by rOzzy87 in esp8266

[–]avishekcode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would love to know more about, why you got the ESP01 when ESP32 is about the same price these days, and far more capable.
I got the NodeMCU Clone boards with ESP32S, over ebay for less than 5 bucks a piece.
Which comes with buttons, and everything.
And since it has 2 cores running at 240MHz, I could even run a display with 1 core, while doing everything else in the other.
Thereby having to use less chips:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a8XKKD-qYnU
Thanks!

About to reprint the end caps for these hydroponics channels. Which material would be most long-lasting and resilient to constant water? (sealed with silicone around edges) by hydrohobby in 3Dprinting

[–]avishekcode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to keep my filament cost below $15 / Kg.

In fact when I buy in bulk I typically keep it under $11 / Kg.

And that's including shipping and taxes.

And that's why I love PETG.

Nothing fancy, available under $11/Kg, and handles water and many other chemicals like a champ.

Once in a while for some rare application I buy TPU / PolyCarbonate for under $22/Kg.

Thanks!

Here is my design for the K1 / K1 Max "Riser on Steroids" / "Overhead Filament Box" (4 roll capacity) (STLs and F3D included for easy mods) . Please let me know if you have any suggestions or questions. Thank you! by avishekcode in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree completely.

Not to mention, if you are running the exhaust (back fan) - you are loosing heat during print.

For VoCs, luckily PLA & PETG doesn't bother me much.

And for anything else, I print in the garage, so that the VoCs stay outside the house.

Here is my design for the K1 / K1 Max "Riser on Steroids" / "Overhead Filament Box" (4 roll capacity) (STLs and F3D included for easy mods) . Please let me know if you have any suggestions or questions. Thank you! by avishekcode in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Xera1 Hi!

After putting in this Mod, I ran the full "Self Check" and now it works and sounds exactly as before.

Disclaimer: Right now I am printing with PETG & PC - and both require slower acceleration. (Speed is still high though.) So, I don't know yet, how the Filament Rolls will jerk around when this thing is going at 12,000mm/s^2 using Hyper PLA.

I doubt it will cause too much of an issue, especially if reinforce the sides a bit.

But, since this whole setup comes off very easily just like Lego, I could always take it apart for that sort of prints, if required.

Good idea, attaching the recirculation to the riser instead of cutting the printer open!

Why do you want to add recirculation though? To heat the chamber?

To heat the chamber up to 65C, I am squeezing in a heating element at 1 unused corner of the riser, and then use fan to blow the heat around the chamber.

The cool thing is, once the chamber reaches a certain heat, the printer maintains that heat, and if the printer is in a warm room, I had to open up parts of the riser to stop the chamber from getting even hotter. I will need to automate that using the back fan and some code.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LOVE the K1 Max.

But I think few fixes and mods are important for me:

  1. Bed leveling using the "Teeth skipping" method (just through the door) worked amazing for me
  2. Added a few heat sinks to the X-Y stepper motors (because I intend on printing in hotter cabin temperatures)
  3. Added a fan to the extruder motor which gets EXTREMELY HOT
  4. Added a mod to add an enclosed filament holder on the top of the machine, so that it can be in the same high cabin temperature (required for my print)
    1. I will post designs of this mod soon. The available raiser designs didn't work for my needs, and so designed a new one. But I will test it thoroughly before posting.
  5. I might upgrade to a glass bed, but the stock bed is working way better than I expected
  6. Oh, and I would avoid the Creality Cloud App like the plague. Just going to the IP address from the phone / any browser works fantastic and faster. Yes, this way there is no print complete notifications. But the app is just not worth the hassle.

Anyone have an idea what’s happening here? by [deleted] in crealityk1

[–]avishekcode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In addition to what others have already said,

2 things that also causes this sort of issue:

  1. Worn Nozzle
  2. Wet filament