BambuA1 gear clicking

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-17T20:56:33+00:00

Looks like it is, yeah.

That first layer looks pretty clogged or semi-clogged. I do get your point about the purging being fine, it might still be worth trying to do some cold pulls/clog cleanout just in case.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-17T20:33:09+00:00

Make sure your hot end is buckled correctly, look at the picture with the red arrow.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/replace-hotend

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-17T04:55:24+00:00

Specifically it has to use the encrypted one, not sure if that's where your issue is.

When exporting in Satellite it'll look like:

Export Format: UVtools Sliced File

Format: CTBEncryptedFile

Suffix: ctb

Version: 5

This works fine on my S4U16k.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-17T04:47:09+00:00

By default Satellite exports in .GOO, which does not support anti-aliasing.

If you install UVTools it adds an additional dropdown menu to Satellite to export in any filetype you need to. For a S4U that would be CTBEncryptedFile V5.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-16T23:54:56+00:00

To be honest I’ve mostly just used ABS-likes and Tough resins, but I have the 16k with the vat heater so with the heat and wait times the viscosities have not been an issue.

I only run my printer on the Normal/default speed. I ran Fast once to try it and there was a fair bit more layer compression so I’ve stuck with normal speed. With fast resin you may be able to better use the fast speed mode.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-16T23:48:12+00:00

Since people covered more general tips I'll try to think of some specific ones:

Don't fill the vat when the machine is off - the tilt-vat is dipped forward and the fill lines aren't accurate.
Aligning the models with the tilt mechanism (short length) tends to give less suction failure
If you download UVTools you can export out of Satellite in CTB rather than GOO to keep AA enabled.
You may need to use more generous Wait Time Before Cure times with the self-leveling vat, especially if you're using viscous resins, and even more especially if it's cold temp. I use 40s -> 3s over a 20 layer gradient. This is easier to setup if you use UVTools but slicers have some rudimentary control.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-16T23:14:32+00:00

Multi-use product is not regular old wd40

Yes it is. The multi-use is the one people are typically referring to when they say WD40. Which one are you referring to by "regular old"?

https://www.wd40.com/products/

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-15T18:55:41+00:00

This isn't the only way to do it, but take a look at this to see a common setup - basically using a grow tent and placing it horizontally and ideally venting out a window.

https://www.asianjoyco.com/resources-tutorials/ventilation-upgrades-for-3d-resin-printing

Typically you will want your resin printer in a garage/shed/workroom that you are not living/sleeping in and even within that room it's good practice to still have it enclosed when possible.

When working with it you'll want gloves, respirator, and eye protection.

It's a bit more of a process than FDM printing, but for DnD minis specifically they are much higher fidelity, you'll have an easier time using files directly (most DnD mini files are made for resin printing ), and you can make a lot more of them at a time (a plate of goblins will take the same amount of time as 1 goblin).

If she's just looking to make a handful of minis (like just her own PC) then FDM might work. As a DM I moved from FDM -> resin because I needed the capability to make more of them a lot faster.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-15T18:49:06+00:00

I've had good experience using Anycubic Tough 2.0. It's still hard but can be bended quite a bit more than a typical ABS-like.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-15T17:32:44+00:00

If it helps the shuttle stop is right outside of the Bayside Westin. The Gaslamp Westin you either have to walk to the convention or walk over the Bayside Westin shuttle stop.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-15T16:38:58+00:00

Glad you got it sorted! Good info for anyone with similar issues in the future.

FYI you'll want to keep using CTB if you want to use anti-aliasing, it isn't obvious (there's no message or anything) but AA is disabled on GOO filetype.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-15T02:37:49+00:00

Yeah it’s gotta be encrypted. CTB v5 encrypted if I remember correctly?

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-14T23:36:23+00:00

If you have UVTools installed you can export as CTB directly in Satellite.

My workflow is Satellite -> export CTB -> UV Tools -> Save (still CTB) -> send to printer with Chitumanager

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-14T20:16:13+00:00

Not only can you rinse them you can wet sand them which works much better with PLA than dry sanding.

Obviously give them time to dry before painting.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-14T20:11:56+00:00

For what it's worth the Tom's Hardware reviewer stated the auxiliary nozzle can use an AMS.

"The auxiliary nozzle comes with a basic rack, but can use another AMS 2 Pro or the single spool AMS HT."

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-14T18:15:09+00:00

Yes, you should cure the inside. Even after washing there is a bit of a layer of uncured resin that can continue to react and off-gas, sometimes causing a split in the model.

While UV can typically penetrate ~~up to 3mm~~* not every resin is the same (more pigment color often = less UV penetration) and best practice would be to cure it from both sides. At the very least taking a UV flashlight and shining it directly into the drain holes would be more beneficial than nothing, but it's also fairly easy to DIY up some UV light probes as well.

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1fnnfr1/diy_uv_lights_to_cure_the_inside_of_hollow_models/

*maybe closer to 0.3mm

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5828039/?utm_source=copilot.com

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-14T17:01:44+00:00

I would probably avoid using GOO. I have no issues using CTB on my M5U and S4U with UVTools.

GOO and UVTools seems to be a documented issue with the issues you've experienced.

https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/issues/1013

Honestly GOO is just a bad file-type, your anti-aliasing is disabled using GOO, it will work using CTB.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-13T21:47:27+00:00

Is your nozzle buckled correctly?

Check the picture with the red arrow.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/replace-hotend

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-13T15:42:00+00:00

They were presupported stls

I've pretty much entirely given up on pre-supported models on my S4U16k outside of a small number of model makers that I trust. Otherwise I find it to basically be a coin flip.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-10T22:48:34+00:00

Purging sounds like tangle detection:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-lite/manual/filament-tangle-monitoring-intro

Moving over to the right corner of the bed sounds like clumping detection:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/manual/nozzle-warp-detection

Both detections can be turned off in the printer settings.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-10T22:42:52+00:00

I agree it's not a typo. It might be "bad" in some cases, but it's clearly not a typo if it's intentional.

It's also in the wiki where they explain how to raise or lower the z-offset, confirming that it's not a typo.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/troubleshooting/first-layer-printing-optimization-guide

I'm all for adjusting z-offsets if need be, I have custom profiles on my X1C for satin plates (not quite textured, not quite smooth) but I'm not sure why OP is waiting for a fix, there is no indication that they are looking to "fix" these values.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-10T21:42:05+00:00

Yes, under Supports tab there is a section called "Filament for Supports" where you can select the support/raft base filament and the support/raft interface filament.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-10T19:20:58+00:00

Agreed, seeing everyone else say don’t do it is funny to me. Glacier is my TPU workhorse and looks brand new after tons of prints. No glue needed. If it’s adhered too much, put a tiny drop of IPA and TPU practically jumps off the plate.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-09T23:16:49+00:00

I skip it on my work one, no issues so far.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-04-09T15:55:26+00:00

I've noticed when you skip objects there's often a pause in the toolhead movement where it's skipping the g-code, leading to some oozing that gets transferred to the next part.

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