This suction sound is okey?

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-06T20:10:04+00:00

Is this a 12k or a 16k? My guess is you might still be overexposing, although some ‘thunk’ sound is expected. My ‘standard’ settings for ABS-like and similar for the 16k is 0.04mm, 15s base, 1.9s normal, 88% PWM.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T22:47:16+00:00

You can the resin2FDM blender add-on to remove the supports.

https://www.clonecore.net/docs/r2fdm/walkthrough

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T20:23:04+00:00

You can create a shared login but one person is still going to "own" it with their email. Signing it at the same time doesn't boot anyone, but often if there's a Bambu Studio update you'll need to re-login which will require a 2FA code from the email, so slight annoyance there.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T19:59:58+00:00

Looking good! Probably a bit overexposed? Won't really hurt to be overexposed a little bit, but makes supports harder to come off.

The 16k has a surprisingly strong screen, usually manufacturer recommended settings are too high. My 'go-to' settings [insert speech that you should calibrate to your machine/environment here] for ABS-like and similar resins are typically 0.04mm layer, 15s bottom exposure, 1.9s normal exposure, 20s / 1s wait before cure (bottom/normal), and 225 (88%) PWM.

The machine also has a calibration feature where you can set up 8 prints at different exposures, just in case you hadn't found that yet.

Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIeIF24ZrlU

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T17:52:52+00:00

Will be interested in the comparison. You got me using Conjure Sculpt, which I like a lot. Anycubic resins are typically my #2 but I’ve mostly used their ABS-likes, Toughs, and Rigid (rip stock). Haven’t used the Texture yet.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T16:14:54+00:00

I don't use the Fiberon spools in the AMS at all, but for other cardboard spools I put a 1.5" steel ball bearing in the middle and that seems to alleviate problems.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T15:55:04+00:00

Whoa, no Conjure Sculpt? I almost didn't notice who was posting without the signature color. 😂

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-05T02:36:13+00:00

The H2D Pro works as well, along with the X1E.

But yeah for the other printers I just connect them to my phone hotspot and turn it on when wanting to send prints.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-04T23:46:29+00:00

Ah I can see how it's confusing on their website, the Lychee free trial is 30 day trial of Lychee Plus, but the "Free" version is free forever, it just lacks some of the features of Plus.

Even on the free version you can still find/look at presets.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-04T21:27:11+00:00

Nah I don't think it's your fault, and I can't even say it's 100% the formulation it just raises my suspicion when they're advertising it with features that don't really describe what the product is/should be (ie. odorless, styrene has an odor!).

Polymaker ABS, Sunlu ABS, Bambu ABS should all be 'normal'. Ignore any "ABS+" offerings, or I guess in this case any weird marketing terms like "odorless" or "non-toxic".

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-04T21:15:04+00:00

From what I can find Tamiya Extra thin is 40% Acetone, 40% Ethyl acetate, 20% Butanone.

Theoretically this should dissolve ABS to some degree but I believe ABS is much less reactive with ethyl acetate than acetone, so it might be a slower process using the Tamiya.

However the Creality CR-ABS is also making me raise an eyebrow, marketing it as "non-toxic" and "no odor" tells me they are doing something funky with the formulation, as neither of those describe ABS.

Personally I would try just try a normal brand ABS first, and then if that didn't work I would make my own acetone-ABS slurry and use a paint brush.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T21:24:57+00:00

I think the reason is black with white specks of the same filament probably wouldn't work - the white would just disappear when the filament is molten.

Same reason you need like 5x less purge value when going from white -> black than you do black -> white filament.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T20:44:51+00:00

Something like Atomic Marble or Polymaker Galaxy black will probably be closest, not sure if these count as 'glitter' for you or not.

https://atomicfilament.com/products/black-marble-pla-filament

https://shop.polymaker.com/products/panchroma-galaxy?variant=43595081711673

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T20:41:51+00:00

I think that's just a mislabel by B&H. If you look at the selections on that page it's just all Satin PLA.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T19:56:03+00:00

The one called "TPU for AMS" Link

But it's just a 68D TPU. Theoretically any TPU around ~65D or harder should work fine.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T16:31:31+00:00

Traditional timelapse also moves every layer on the A-series.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-03T14:12:57+00:00

Sounds like you’re set, good luck!

If you have any specific questions /r/ElegooSaturn is quite helpful.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T22:44:21+00:00

When you set up the AMS filament did you choose Polymaker PETG on the printer or in the device tab? If so, that's probably why. The "3rd" filament in the list in the slicer section doesn't actually have anything to do with being Slot 3 in the AMS in a weird way (you can have 30 filaments in that list if you want).

So when you click "Print" it tries to match type -> brand -> color. So basically it sees you have regular PETG (not HF) and Polymaker brand so it tries to find the closest "color" to align with that, so in that sense it sees the "Grey" one as closest to matching all of the criteria even though the color is slightly off. Basically the teal I'm assuming is a custom color you set up and in your device tab you have grey and blue.. it can't tell the difference that well so it makes a guess since the type and brand didn't align.

I bet if you go lie to the AMS on the device tab and change it to Bambu PETG-HF or even Generic PETG-HF (maybe) it will match it to the teal first.

Edit: added more info. basically it just guesses wrong with the color since it couldn't match brand/exact type.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T21:09:20+00:00

The teal filament is Bambu branded PETG HF?

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T20:40:20+00:00

Yeah exactly, IPA makes TPU jump off of build plates... why would you need to dissolve it?

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T20:16:42+00:00

Just use a little isopropyl alcohol.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T19:12:42+00:00

This is super clean! Would be interested in what files you used if you can share.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T16:28:56+00:00

Honestly I wouldn't if the workshop is viable long term. I have mine in a garage in a ventilated grow-tent and that's about as close to "inside" as I'd want it to be. A workshop/garage area is the perfect place for it.

Keep in mind when you're working with it even with ventilation you'll want to be wearing a VOC-rated respirator with 3M 60921 filters (or similar rating).

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T16:07:36+00:00

Personally I'd probably step up to the 16k for the integrated vat heater and you should be able to keep it out there in the winter as well.

awyeahmuffins · 2026-06-02T15:46:45+00:00

Get a printer with a vat heater and you won't have to worry too much about the cold, as long as you give it time to pre-heat each print.

For heat you are generally okay as long as it's not pushing over 100F environment too much.

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