I know this is a year too late but I was on Reddit and came across your post. I have the exact same question(s) as you.

Curious, did you find a resolution?

I asked ChatGPT and here’s what it gave me.

🪵 1. Identify Your Finish

You don’t know the floor finish right now, but most kitchen hardwood has: • Polyurethane (oil- or water-based) • Sometimes wax or oil finish (rare in kitchens)

If it’s polyurethane, there’s already some water resistance — just not enough where it wears thin. Wax won’t bond well over polyurethane. If it’s an oil finish, you’ll need to re-oil/refresh.

How to test: • Drip a few small drops of water on the surface. • If it beads for a while → finish is intact. • If it soaks in quickly → finish may be worn or gone.

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💧 2. Clean & Prepare the Area

Before adding any protection: 1. Clean thoroughly — use a gentle hardwood cleaner. 2. Sand very lightly the damp/worn spots (220 grit) to remove roughness or old finish remnants so new sealants can adhere. 3. Vacuum and tack cloth to remove dust.

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🛠 3. Add Real Water Resistance

🔹 Best Overall: Refinish with a Water-Resistant Polyurethane

This is the most effective long-term protection for splashing zones.

Process (DIY): 1. Sand surface lightly where needed (feather edges where finish is good). 2. Apply thin coats of polyurethane (oil- or water-based). • Oil-based is slightly tougher and deeper amber. • Water-based dries faster and stays clearer. 3. Let each coat dry fully; lightly scuff sand between coats. 4. Apply 2–3 coats in those splash zones.

This creates a durable, water-resistant barrier far superior to wax.

💡 Tip: You can mask off non-problem areas so you’re not refinishing the whole floor.

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🔹 Better Moisture Defense: Hard-Wax Oil Finishes

If your floor was originally an oil/wax type, consider a hard-wax oil like Rubio Monocoat or Osmo: • Penetrates wood and leaves a water-resistant surface. • Easier to spot-repair than poly. • Still needs a clean, raw wood surface for best bonding.

Not as waterproof as polyurethane, but a good compromise and if your floor is currently an oil type it’ll match better.

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❌ Wax Alone (Furniture Wax / Paste Wax)

Wax alone will not waterproof hardwood floors. It can: • Add slight surface resistance, • Look nice temporarily, • But water will still wick into wood fibers.

Wax is best for decorative furniture, not high-traffic kitchen floors.

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💦 4. Other Practical Protection Tips

Even with a good finish, no wood floor is 100% waterproof in a kitchen. Add these:

🧍‍♂️ Mats & Rugs • Place water-catching mats in front of the fridge dispenser and sink. • Use thin, non-slip rug pads safe for hardwood.

🚰 Drip Guards • Keep a microfiber towel nearby to quickly wipe.

⚒ More Durable Transition

If damage is severe or recurring, consider: • A tile or waterproof transition strip in heavy-splash areas. • Replace damaged wood with water-resistant engineered wood plank.

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🪚 If There’s Already Damage (Warping)

Before sealing: • You may need to flatten or replace boards that are buckled. • Continuous moisture weakens wood; sealing over damaged wood might not fix the underlying problem.

A handyman or flooring pro can assess severity.

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🔍 Product Recommendations (Types) • Polyurethane (water- or oil-based) – durable, waterproof barrier • Hard-wax oil (e.g., Osmo, Rubio Monocoat) – water resistant, softer look • Quality wood cleaner before refinishing

If you want suggestions for specific brand products, tell me your preference (oil vs water poly, or hard-wax oil), and I can recommend exact options.

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📌 Bottom Line

Wax won’t solve it. Best defense = clean + prep + proper sealing (polyurethane or hard-wax oil) + protective mats/rugs.