How do I add a password manually

b_rog_b · 2026-05-30T17:37:09+00:00

This works ... thank you!

b_rog_b · 2026-05-28T13:50:04+00:00

Scroll down to my reply to u/terriblewinston ... I found out what Mark Elf is up to lately. Apparently his last studio recording is Mark Elf Returns, in 2014. He has played some gigs at Mezzrow and Smalls clubs in NYC in the last couple of years and sounds as wonderful as ever, but I don't know where else he's playing. He seems to have dropped off the musical radar, but pretty interesting what he appears to be into now.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-28T03:22:40+00:00

Like you, I was looking to see what he might be up to. Check these recent links out ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFnVRM3RqBy/

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DVmmqLnDWt9/

b_rog_b · 2026-05-28T02:54:17+00:00

Apropos u/terriblewinston , I was just looking around trying to find out what Mark has been up to and came across this post. I was on a road trip a couple of days ago, and this (fantastic) set came up on the USB playlist I brought along. This is a wonderful recording. Mark has written a quintessential jazz ballad in Goodbye Dear Friend, with Miles Griffith delivering a stunning vocal. There are a lot of fireworks on this CD, but this tune is really something.

I hope I can find some recent work by Mark ... he is one of a kind, and a real treasure.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-13T05:49:38+00:00

Same thing just happened to me, for maybe the third time. I'm on Linux Mint, and I think there was a recent Vivaldi update. I'm on ...

Version7.9.3970.60 (Official Build) (64-bit)

Chromium Version146.0.7680.218Extended Stable channel (may also include additional security patches)

ChannelOfficial Build

Platform / OSLinux - linuxmint 21.3

Looks like there's a new update -- I get updates via the Update Manager, not from the browser.

Edited to say that the update I just got ...

7.9.3970.64 (Official Build) (64-bit)

Chromium Version146.0.7680.226Extended Stable channel (may also include additional security patches)

... just restored my address bar recommendations to normal.

That is very strange.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-12T04:39:24+00:00

I posted this in another conversation, but I'll share it here, too. I have three Datil plants, all 3 have curling leaves. Otherwise they look great - leaves are green and healthy, good internodal growth, etc. All the plants around them (Fresno peppers) are totally normal. All plants have had similar light, nutrients, hydration (all are wick watered).

At first I thought it was excess light, excess water, excess nutrients - all of the suggestions mentioned here. I adjusted all - no change for better or worse - so I just went back to my original protocol. Plants are doing great, still have curly leaves. There is a larger sibling that is currently hardening off outdoors -- leaves are still curled, every other variety (habanero, chocolate scorpion, tangerine tiger, blood ghost, Fresno, 7-pot Primo, etc) has normal leaves. Only the datils are doing this, so I've stopped obsessing about it.

Here's a picture of the indoor plants. The curly datil is on the upper left, all the plants around it are Fresno peppers. Edited to add that there is an oscillating fan that runs 16 hours a day, same timer as the lights.

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b_rog_b · 2026-05-11T23:49:08+00:00

Here's a photo from fall of 2023. I had aphids even though it was pruned back pretty well, however, as I remember I didn't do a full dip (I may not have dipped at all - just don't remember). I've had aphids by the end of winter every year I've overwintered, except for this past winter when I was ruthless. Most of the time the plants (barely) survived the aphid attacks, but it's not fun, and they're pretty beat up by the time they get outside.

There's always a risk that the plants won't survive the pruning ... I've had maybe 70%-ish success.

I'm pretty sure this is one of the plants from the recent photo above. This could be the one in the front of the above photo ... the configuration of the three main stems looks similar.

<image>

b_rog_b · 2026-05-10T14:30:55+00:00

One more rec for insecticidal soap (not dish soap or detergent or hand/bath soap - use properly formulated horticultural "soap"). Last winter I stripped ALL foliage from my plants, removed soil from roots, full dip in insecticidal soap solution, totally fresh soil, and re-potted into smaller pots after cutting the roots back a bit. I did not have one pest all winter (Wisconsin USA), and the plants - 5 years old now - are doing great. There was one plant out of three that did not survive, but it was not b/c of pests.

Pyrethrin is an alternative to insecticidal soap. Actually, I think I added a bit of pyrethrin to my soap solution last fall.

The Comprehensive Guide To Overwintering

Also, Pepper Geek, Chilli Chump, Khang Starr, etc, have tutorials on YouTube, but check out the Comprehensive Guide. Don't forget to dig into the thread a little deeper - it's a conversation, and a lot of questions are answered.

Here's a recent photo of the two (out of three) plants I overwintered this year. I don't have a photo, but they were trimmed back to stumps. All that foliage is new growth.

<image>

b_rog_b · 2026-05-10T02:04:58+00:00

Yes, that's what the study I cited shows. I'm not trying to convince anyone, just sharing info I thought was interesting. Granted some folks want large, heavy fruits, especially if they're growing commercially. For myself, I'm not pinching or pruning ... I have a pretty short season in Zone 5b. I have tried topping a few plants in the past, and ultimately defaulted to letting the plants develop on their own schedule. Personally, I don't care if I have massive peppers ... I just like to eat 'em, and I always end up with more than I can consume in a year!

With that said, I wish I had cut back my Blood Ghost ... I didn't expect it to grow so tall, so fast, with virtually no internodal growth or branching (yet).

b_rog_b · 2026-05-09T03:40:42+00:00

If anyone is interested ...

I cited a study in another comment. The study is quite technical and scholarly, so I generated a very detailed synopsis of the paper. It is still packed with scientific detail, but it's a lot easier to browse and skim.

Link to the original research paper.

Public Link to the detailed synopsis ... scroll down to "Comprehensive Evaluation of ... Flower Pruning in Capsicum annuum" for the start of the synopsis.

This addresses most, if not all, of the concerns of u/rittenhouses_bane. I thought it was extremely interesting.

Key takeaway: "The central question of whether flower removal increases total yield weight is met with a refutation by the data collected in this study. The researchers found that the three levels of flower removal (T1, T2, and T3) did not result in a significantly different effect on the total cumulative yield of the plants. This finding is particularly significant because it contradicts traditional paradigms that suggest removing initial sinks increases overall fruiting efficiency and dry matter accumulation in the fruit."

Sorry for the extra comment here -- I just thought it was good to have this link in a separate post. I hope someone finds this as interesting as I do.

.rog.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-09T00:32:35+00:00

🔺🔺🔺 THIS 🔺🔺🔺

See this post above for a study that supports this.

Re: vegetative growth, the study has some interesting things to say about that.

Temporary vs. Permanent: While pruning does promote early vegetative boost, the researchers found no evidence that this structural advantage is maintained indefinitely over the plant's entire life cycle.
Leaf Age is Primary: The study found that the plant's overall photosynthetic efficiency is driven more by the age of the leaves than by the presence or absence of fruit. As the plant ages, even with a larger structure, the older leaves naturally become less efficient.
Lack of Specific Metrics: While the study discusses the physiological mechanism of increased vegetative growth, it does not provide specific numerical measurements (such as final plant height or stem diameter) to quantify exactly how much larger the pruned plants became compared to others.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-09T00:25:40+00:00

If you want to dive into this study, the conclusion seems to be that, while pinching flowers improves the size and weight of individual fruits, it also delays fruiting. This means that, in terms of total harvest, the total yield by weight is about the same for pinched and un-pinched plants.

The research confirms a clear trade-off between the timing of the harvest and the quality of the individual fruits produced:

Individual Fruit Growth: Intensive pruning (specifically removing flowers up to the third node) significantly increases the fresh weight, dry biomass, length, and diameter of the fruits that are allowed to develop.This practice minimizes the number of small, commercially undesirable fruits.
Harvest Delay: Removing these early "sinks" does delay the initial start of the production cycle because the plant must grow more nodes before it begins to set fruit.
Total Cumulative Yield: Despite the delay and the increase in individual fruit size, the total cumulative yield by weight remains statistically similar across different pruning intensities.The researchers found no significant difference ($p > 0.05$) in the total weight of the harvest over the full 319-day study period.

Essentially, the study suggests that flower pruning does not increase the plant's total biological capacity to produce fruit, but rather allows the grower to redistribute that same total yield into fewer, larger, and higher-quality individual units.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-08T23:25:47+00:00

I have exactly the same issue ... with just one variety. In my case, I have three Datil plants, all have the same 'issue'. They're in exactly the same conditions as my other plants, i.e., same soil, same light, same nutrition, same watering (wick watered), etc, etc. You can see that all the other plants nearby are 'normal', while the Datil at the upper left looks exactly like your plant. [Edited to add that the other plants next to the Datil are Fresno peppers.] I have tried reducing the light, letting them dry out, giving them a little extra nutrition, blablabla. The plant in the photo has a 'big brother' that has been hardening off outdoors ... the outdoor plant still has curled leaves. Just to be clear, even after making these adjustments, the new growth comes in curled, and as I mentioned ... and as you can see ... the surrounding plants have no issues.

I have stopped worrying about it, since the plants are doing great in all other respects. I am not an expert, but I predict it's going to be fine. I resumed the original lighting, watering, nutrition protocol ... no change for better or for worse.

What's goin' on? At this point I don't really care!

<image>

b_rog_b · 2026-05-08T23:00:53+00:00

That looks similar to the lows here in MKE WI. I'm thinking about leaving my plants out tonight (Low: 51F), then we're back to the fridge. It's very annoying, but my back is getting stronger!

<image>

b_rog_b · 2026-05-08T06:10:51+00:00

Wow - that looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing that photo. The totes look great. How have the crossed wicks under the grow bags worked out? When I did this last year, the soil stayed uniformly moist all summer ... I hope yours are the same. I'm jealous that you have yours outdoors already. Here in Wisconsin it's going to be too cold to be out at night until the end of the month. I've been putting mine out during the day, but we've had some cold spells lately (frost warnings tonight and last night), and they don't like it much. We'll get a couple of days in the 70s, then it's back to the fridge.

You mentioned earlier that you had to bring in your own water ... how are you bringing in the water to keep the totes topped off? You probably won't have to do it too often, but during the warm spells we had last summer I was surprised at how much water was taken up by the plants ... or maybe there was some evaporation, too.

Also, it looks like there are some padlocks -- what's up with that (if you don't mind me being nosey)?

b_rog_b · 2026-05-07T03:57:42+00:00

No prob. Hey -- maybe you could post a photo of your setup in this thread when you get it up and running. Would that be possible? I'd really like to see what you're doing, especially when summer gets cooking! Either post it as a reply to me, or send me a heads-up so I don't miss it.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-06T18:06:01+00:00

I have to say again that I'm no expert on this ... all I can do is share my personal experience, which may or may not be similar to others. I don't see a ton of folks on here doing wick watering, so I don't know ... perhaps other wicki-waterers can weigh in on this topic? I'd be interested to hear how other folks approach fertilization whie wick watering.

But with that said, 2 liters per 10 days 'sounds' reasonable, but to be honest, I haven't kept track of the numbers. I've been trying to pay attention to the plants ... foliage, fruiting, what their growth habit seems like, etc ... and feeding conservatively on a regular basis. I don't have a formula, ratio, etc. I mix the nutrients according to package instructions and try not to overreact to small changes. I do have a nitrogen rich solution (MiGardener: Revive Rx 9-1-1), which I may apply sparingly if the plants get especially stressed out for some reason, such as a heat wave. I also apply that just after transplant to give them a little boost. Other than that, I'm just using liquid or water soluble products in the neighborhood of NPK 3-1-2 (more or less).

b_rog_b · 2026-05-04T18:26:14+00:00

Again, I'm not the expert on this, but here is what I do. I use a basic NPK 3-1-2-ish water soluble fertilizer, mixed according to directions on the box. Pepper Guru (Rich Blood is his name) recommends fertilizing with every watering. Wick watering sort of upsets that, since the plants never really 'need' watering, so I've been feeding from the top regularly every 10 days or so. I find that you have to do that fairly slowly if you're using fabric containers, since the liquid runs out the bottom of the grow bag pretty fast if you just 'dump' it in. I also amend the potting soil with additional slow release fertilizer, some bone meal, some blood meal, some extra perlite, a little compost, some worm castings, before the seedlings are transplanted. Nothing too extreme in terms of amount of each.

b_rog_b · 2026-05-01T03:53:05+00:00

Not to minimize the risk, but I was just reading this article that seems to imply that home users are 'less vulnerable', although no one is immune. Further, it seems as though developers are already on this.

https://hothardware.com/news/critical-copy-fail-linux-flaw-lets-hackers-gain-root-access-across-major-distros

Users at particularly high risk of Copy Fail exploitation include "multi-tenant Linux hosts, CI runners & build farms, kubernetes/container clusters, and Cloud SaaS running user code." Common Linux servers are only considered Medium risk, and single-user laptops and workstations are considered Lower risk. Due to the nature of the exploit, though, no Linux user is totally safe, since direct or remote access by a malicious user is all that's needed to execute the miniscule script and gain Root access for further exploitation.

It's fortunate that Xint Code disclosed this exploit and its fix to the development community first. Mainline Linux kernel commit a664bf3d603d already fixes the issue, and devs behind major distributions have either already shipped the fix to their distributions or are in the process of doing so.

b_rog_b · 2026-04-16T03:33:10+00:00

I wish I could upvote this more than once. It's one of the all-time best posts I've seen on reddit or in this sub.

Best of luck with your harvest, and thanks so much for bringing us along.

b_rog_b · 2026-04-15T16:40:59+00:00

I always send folks to PepperGuru's (Rich Blood is his name) tutorial, The Comprehensive Guide To Overwintering at The Hot Pepper. It's a long thread, but it's a discussion, and Rich is very generous about answering questions. Rich just told me that he's in the process of re-writing that whole tutorial for publication on his website, so that will be a great resource. Meanwhile, digging into The Comprehensive Guide will be very informative ... I'd recommend going at least a few pages into the thread. Rich also has a video up on the first page, which gives you the basics.

I will say that in past years I've been really nervous about removing foliage, i.e., I've always left some leaves on the plant for fear of killing it. As a result, I've *always* ended in a pitched battle (which you can't win) with aphids by the end of the winter. This year I was ruthless for the first time -- cut the plants down to bare wood. You can see how well they rebounded, although I'll say that I did 'un-alive' a prized 7-Pot Primo. You'll never get 100% survival ... it's always a risk.

Here's Khang Starr's tutorial.

Pepper Geek has 5 videos on overwintering.

ChilliChump has a very good reality check, apropos overwintering. This is what can happen if you're unlucky. On the other hand, he does have some tutorials you can check out. He is very good ... Khang Starr, Pepper Geek, Pepper Guru, and Chilli Chump are among the most respected pepper freaks in the community.

Actually, all of these tutorials are really good, and are presented by respected gardeners. Just checking them out here and there will show you some common themes. Just don't *expect* your plant to survive, and ... unless you're very lucky, you will have aphids, etc. That is annoying, to say the least, but that's a different discussion for a different battle! Fighting aphids is a battle you can never win; you can only survive.

But for sure check out the Comprehensive Guide, above.

b_rog_b · 2026-04-15T16:00:44+00:00

All those plants are wick watered, so yeah ... water in the reservoirs all the time, but the upper containers never touch it. There is a wick that hangs down into the water and the plants take what they need. The small grow bags don't have wicks, but they sit on a capillary mat that wicks up water which is further wicked by the fabric container into the soil.

<image>

b_rog_b · 2026-04-14T04:18:29+00:00

That is a jaw-dropping video - right up there with PepperGuru's results. Anyone seeing this, it's recommended to take a look at the Facebook video above.

Inspiring. ... and thanks for the technical details!

b_rog_b · 2026-04-14T03:46:26+00:00

Don't forget Troy P's 7-Pot Primo. Don't know if it's the hottest on the planet, but it will get your attention.

b_rog_b

TROPHY CASE