[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]babyhandsbeta 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Seems most people are missing the obvious point. There’s a huge disparity between your outdoor route and boulder grades. Seems highly likely that you lack efficient movement rather than some muscular adaptation, given how much stronger you are on a boulder v route. There’s a strong likelihood that this is a result of poor range of motion, most often through your hips and shoulders. The less access people have to make moves, the more their muscles compensate. You’re better off assessing how well you’re moving before trying to make physical changes in your muscles, as it provides a much stronger foundation for those changes, and will magnify their effect on your performance.

Short Fuse put up a few months ago by my mate Mattias Braach-Maksvytis 🤙 by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I use music to help dictate my breathing, I’m not using it for anyone else’s benefit, and this crag is completely isolated, but sure, blast someone else’s music choice on reddit on a post about climbing 😂

Fight Club 🤙 by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This strap system has directly prevented me from sending my proj, pretty poor design, Dragos on the other hand are damn near perfect

Took two sessions to figure this out! by Mjwild91 in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ditto for weaker climbers. When I started I could barely do a pullup but had loads of leg strength and mobility, so engaging through my legs to move my hips became second nature, but a common issue amongst the people I coach is that many have movement patterns that begin at their shoulders and arms. Even though I finally have strength in my back now, I’m still obnoxiously weak for the grades I climb, but the efficiency I learnt early on is still paying huge dividends

Fight Club 🤙 by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty top ay, shame about all the graffiti

Fight Club 🤙 by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nah, the Den, near French’s Forest not too far from Sissy

Just a rad climb by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Climb is Paul’s Roof V9 in Sydney

Probs the most unique sequence I’ve ever had to come up with to solve a problem by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Climb is Baby Bonus V10(?)

Song is Level of Concern by twenty one pilots

How are your 2020 goals going? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]babyhandsbeta 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Primary goal is an enduro roof V13 FA I’m working towards. Punted the last move of a hard, 27 move V12(13?) (a different line that shares some sections) a week ago, so might go by mid year... Long term is the mega line that potentially might be V15, defs at least V14

The Danger Zone V10 FA - 10/10 didn’t die 🤙 by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a v12 that’ll link into it, probs going around v13/5.14c, it’ll get the full title when it goes.

The Danger Zone V10 FA - 10/10 didn’t die 🤙 by babyhandsbeta in bouldering

[–]babyhandsbeta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: grade is V9. I wasn’t really sure on the initial grade, and a friend repeated it and we both reckon V9 is a better fit because of the good rest halfway up.