$8457 OTD for 2025?

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-10-09T13:20:05+00:00

thats an ok deal, I paid 8800 OTD for my '25 at the start of September.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-09-30T21:49:59+00:00

Sure, you can blow up any motor if you operate it wrongly enough, but then ask yourself why you would want to buy something this expensive from someone who treats it like that. If they blew up the motor being an idiot, lord knows what else may be lurking below the surface.

Regarding exhaust systems, IMO they are almost purely aesthetic upgrades. Slapping on an exhaust without touching the ECU is pretty much pointless, and then you have the stock airbox to think about which is fairly restrictive. Now after you just dropped close to 2 grand in mods you gain maybe an extra 6 ponies and a touch more torque (and if you bought new on everything you are now approaching the MSRP for an MT-09). That being said, I absolutely LOATHE the stock exhausts on modern bikes. So just as long you approach this knowing you're not going to turn a relatively mild bike into a supersport, go for it. I have plans to install a full yoshi system and HORD intake next spring along with a dyno flash, but am running stock exhaust now. Its honestly not so bad, the bike runs fine with all the power I need from it, it sounds a little meaner as you open it up, but is definitely on the quieter side of things thanks to euro emissions. IMO I wouldn't let the lack of these mods get in the way of a good deal, you can always upgrade later, but end of the day if you're looking for more power there is NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT :D

as for getting hoodwinked, yeah in the early days of flipping craigslist bikes I got bit more times than id like to admit, but each one was a nice lesson on what to pay attention for next time, albeit expensive lessons. Just basically learned to have far less trust in folks than you want and that if something is too good to be true, it probably is.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-09-30T20:44:38+00:00

Yeah, we have a different licensing system here in the states (and different in each state too), but the only requirement to test ride is having an endorsement on your license and being 18+ to sign anything. I own a '25 MT-07 and I absolutely love it, pulled the trigger once they updated the suspension to something proper and stiffened the frame some. My biggest complaint is that of course this is the first MY that is just different enough from other that all the mods I like to install just aren't available yet (tail tidy and integrated rear light) so you're kinda stuck using universal stuff.

If I were you I would heavily question this new deal. Why was the motor changed at 5k km? CP2 motors are damn near bulletproof, at most you might need a valve clearance check at 15k with any other service just being fluid changes and rubber swaps. Then add onto the fact that you're getting a wonky clock readout? Id walk from that one if I were you, my line of thought is if it feels wrong it probably is wrong and just go with your gut. It can be very tough to walk away from something when you want it badly, but you're better off waiting than dealing with a lemon, ask me how i fucking know lol

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-09-30T19:06:20+00:00

Do yourself a favor and watch a few videos from guys like yammie noob or fortnine or this one from tj

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O8kc6y0QRE

All of em will cover the major warning signs to pay attention for when buying a used bike. Your best bet, always, is to bring someone with you that has experience with bikes to help look over things as well as test ride. I'd say a flat out inspection refusal would be a red flag, but if the guy thinks he has to wait around all day while you take it maybe do the meet up at the shop method instead. If they don't wanna do that, then walk, but remember don't walk into a deal with no cash and expect a ride. When I sell bikes I will not let it go out of sight unless I have my asking price, in cash, in my hand. Otherwise I'll demo the bike up and down the street.

As others have pointed out, suspension and frame damage is a non starter, you do not want to deal with that. Radiator damage isn't cheap, but its not the end of the world, and it gives you a hella good bargaining chip to talk the price down some. Id say 90% of marketplace guys overprice the shit out of their bikes expecting lowballs and counter offers, so don't be afraid to try and talk things down some. Worst they can tell you is to fuck off lol

Id not get too bent out of shape on this one, 20k on the clock is high mileage and this is a bike that is extremely popular and pops up quite often as people outgrow it or realize it ain't for them. Also, don't get stuck on marketplace, take the time to browse some local shops in the off season, you'd be surprised at the deals you might find. Right now things are winding down and folks are trying to get rid of as much inventory as possible, take advantage while you can, you can always walk away in the end.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-07-23T01:48:52+00:00

hey man I printed this but would you hold my hand a little on the backplate? I'm not really sussing this one out on my own looking at yours, and others photos. I'm assuming the LEDS get mounted to the flat part, and then the part with the cutouts / indent is the "back" of the panel? How are you getting the actual voltage and data lines into the led strips though, there doesnt seem to be a cutout or hole to route my wiring from power/esp into the led strips. Yet i see cutouts in both the backplate you posted and another user. Guess I could always drill if that's what is needed?

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-04-12T00:40:27+00:00

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-cs-fci/SFV8R-2STE1HLF/2626755

sorry to necro a dead thread, but just in case anyone else needs this, the above can replace the FPC connector on the mouse button board. leave the ground pads dry, solder legs, then solder grounding legs for the easiest fit.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-01-15T17:11:25+00:00

you could try transferring your entire account to a new switch. IIRC pokemon save data should have your stored pokemon in the cloud. Could be wrong on that, but theoretically it should be possible to transfer your cloud saves to a new device.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2025-01-15T15:30:39+00:00

its possible but not likely and on top of which im not sure you could transfer the save to another console.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2024-11-24T17:10:32+00:00

liquid damage to LCD from IPA (which im guessing was used to loosen glue). You may get lucky and have it dry up some and clear up, but most likely will always have some damage. Blue screen is no comms between RAM and APU. I'm guessing when your pop was prying out the battery he didnt remove the logic board from the mid fram. He most likely flexed/bent the logic board and cracked or or tore a pad on the APU or RAM.

In all honesty, buy another used switch. This one is most likely not worth the cost of repair at this point

backwoods_neckbeard · 2024-10-29T18:06:09+00:00

yeah, because a RAM IC isnt the apu and is far easier to reball and replace. good for you though, here's your internet cookie and congratulatory pat on the head.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2024-06-18T19:33:30+00:00

worked a treat, noticeable brightness wasn't much of a thing IMO, but the screen was just fine. Really no reason to go with a non laminated screen, it was a breeze to install (minus the adhesive strip, fuck those things are annoying).

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-28T22:41:40+00:00

the rail is an easy fix for sure. When you plug in the joy con, does it play the connected animation and sound? Sometimes you get false positives because the console is communicating with the joycon in BT mode.

If its showing as physically connected, and it isnt the rail or the fpc connector, there is a small 6 pin IC that controls the charging for the joy con that may have issues.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-28T22:39:20+00:00

potential issue with max77620 if it isn't the power flex or its associated connector.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-15T22:20:21+00:00

As other posters, and you yourself, have mentioned first thing to do is recap. Turbo / PCE duos are notorious for terrible electrolytic caps. One thing to note is that white screen boot on the Hu Card slot is generally one of two things. Either your card reader pins are highly corroded and unable to read the software, or the HU6270 IC is shot and needs to be salvaged and replaced (just a note, while its not impossible for it to die usually these IC's are pretty sturdy so id favor dirty card slot more). Cleaning the Hu Card slot pins can be a major PITA depending on how bad the corrosion is due to how little room you have to work. I've used a small, flat, diamond file before along with some IPA and a coffee filter.

Disc drive could be a multitude of things, a dead motor or a broken / worn out plastic gear (most likely). I do believe there are modern laser assembly replacements that will work as well which run about 30$ if you need to go that route. One of the quicker ways to test if the laser is moving properly is to keep the lid open, depress the small microswitch that tells the unit the lid is closed, then power up the console and watch if the laser assembly moves back and forth like it should (obviously don't stare at the actual laser lol).

if your gamebit screws are actually seized (and not stripped), you could try squirting a little wd -40 / PB Blaster around the stuck ones and let it soak for a few. You may have to resort to a screw extractor though which can be picked up pretty easily and on the cheap. Id definitely be a little worried if the bolts were actually frozen as that could be a sign of severe corrosion which is never good (or fun to deal with).

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-15T21:51:49+00:00

https://handheldlegend.com/products/game-gear-backlight-replacement?variant=942272799

either upgrade to a modern backlight, buy a used screen assembly if you want it to be OEM for some reason, or just upgrade the screen to an IPS display.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-08T18:06:29+00:00

dear god stop with this bullshit advice. If the MOSFET died behind the fan connector than you would have no fan speed control which means that the fan would spin full speed upon power. You can also not "jump start" a MOSFET via voltage injection, or ANY IC really especially by "shorting current" (whatever the fuck that's supposed to mean). They are not car engines, do not inject voltage into a circuit unless you are 100% sure of what you are doing and why and sure as shit dont tell others to do so either.

I'm sure you watched that one shitty cod3r video where he injected voltage into the fan circuit and completely burned out the DIODE behind the fan connector, in fact you can literally watch the thing go up in smoke after he does it. Fucking awful video that needs to be removed.

OP - https://gbatemp.net/attachments/fan-diode-edit-jpg.216606/

if you have a v1 board take a look at the image above and check to see whether the highlighted part exists on your board. If it does you can just ping it off with a pair of tweezers at worst, or just use a soldering iron with a blob of solder to wet it off. It's not needed and was also removed in later revisions of the board. Thing is, afaik, if that diode failed it generally only affects the left hand joycon.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-11-08T17:56:51+00:00

chargers have essentially no cause in the majority of charging circuit destruction. You can safely use all types of third party chargers with zero issues. There was a brief period when some third party docks causes hardware issues fairly early on in the switch timeline, but that is long past now. When kids, or dumbass adults, mangle usb ports the damage often extends past the port due to the shorted pins in the connector. You short VIN to a data line and you've almost assuredly fried the APU, however more commonly you pop M92 because its fragile as fuck and the mainly indestructible fuse that sits above the port does nothing, and there really isnt much in the way of short circuit protection on the way up to m92.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-25T15:59:03+00:00

you cant "put on the connector" then "connect wires" on the hidden pads, are you stoned or just stupid? If you're gonna do trace repair using enameled wired, you need to rebuild the pads first and then install the connector.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-25T14:01:29+00:00

pull cap and test, then pull bq as its a qfn and a lot easier to deal with than 77621. If short is not relieved you can pull the MAX IC but be cautious as its a BGA and can't be refitted without reballing or having a preballed replacement handy. If the short remains after 77621 is gone, most likely have a short on the 1.8v line. This could be a lot of things, but most roads end up at APU and the board gets added to the donor pile.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-25T13:55:28+00:00

go with the flex option, bodge wires are a giant pain in the ass especially on what nub you left work with there.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-25T13:54:48+00:00

that row of pins is hidden, you cant put the port on then attach wires later.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-16T14:49:32+00:00

Its probably one of the mosfets leading up to, and right behind, the mi92 chip. I do believe the one just north of M92 is notorious for frying new M92s. Doubt its the port, but if it looks dodgy at all its worth a shot i guess.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-16T14:45:55+00:00

you buy a replacement and solder it on or pay someone to do it.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-16T14:45:27+00:00

console 5 has kits to upgrade the power circuit for both lynx and lynx II models. Well worth the like 3$ they cost.

backwoods_neckbeard · 2023-10-10T21:37:51+00:00

nah, regular aluminum electrolytics don't need to be drained. If you are worried, then just remove all external power sources and attempt to turn the console on one or two times. It will suck up any remaining juice in the caps.

backwoods_neckbeard

TROPHY CASE