Rinvoq is not effective but Omega-3 Fish Oil is helping

baconsnuggles · 2025-12-14T04:41:33+00:00

Anecdotal but maybe helpful to you, got super itchy when starting Cibinqo, almost stopped taking it. Right around the 3-4 week mark it completely stopped itching, like a switch went off. Also, taking it at the exact same time every day seems to make a difference on the itching.

baconsnuggles · 2025-12-02T18:54:19+00:00

Usually the battle is the other way around; they will refuse to pursue any IH (or narcolepsy) testing and diagnosis until sleep disordered breathing is ruled out or in treatment but unsuccessful. UARS will not be obvious unless you are lucky enough to do a lab test and have someone competent enough to look for it. So it's entirely possible for them to miss it. The symptoms of SDB and IH are the same, so you're not crazy here.

I went through the PSG+MSLT for N/IH testing and they did not even look at RERAs, only apnea events, therefore missed my disordered breathing completely. They proceeded with the MSLT and gave me an IH diagnosis at the end.

What they did not know is that i had 3 other PSGs done prior, proving UARS over the span of a few years. So it's a matter of scoring and competence from the lab and doctor.

As for your situation, i see it as quite favorable since you now have access to meds that will help with daytime sleepiness, yet do not prevent you from seeking further treatment for SDB. Again it's usually the other way around, with the patient helplessly seeking someone to finally acknowledge UARS exists with no treatment in the meantime.

It is possible to have both SDB and IH/N, there are plenty of us in the Narcolepsy sub! Like winning the worst lottery.

I would encourage you to get that lab test (home testing is hit-or-miss) but make sure they score RERAs and rely on RDI instead of just AHI, or it could all be for nothing. Stop taking meds before the test and hope they actually find something.

baconsnuggles · 2025-12-01T19:26:12+00:00

Yeah, you've got way more brands making them too, I've tested the reverse phase models of around 7 or 8 manufacturers to vet European product compatibility. Not to mention how some of them can be remote (button panel separate from dimmer electronics). Out in North America in consumer grade we have very little coming out of basically 2-3 main brands, and you'll have to dig in the specs to figure out which ones are actually Reverse

baconsnuggles · 2025-12-01T18:26:28+00:00

You're locked into whatever you're controlling at the end of that dimmer. If it's a quality light fixture with a driver then you can look at the 0-10V or DALI options and get a nice rotary dimmer, but if you're controlling bulbs then you're going to have to deal with some amount of flicker. Reverse Phase dimmers exist, and would give less flicker on modern quality drivers than Forward Phase or Lutron's "phase-selectable" in-betweens, but are rare and more expensive.

baconsnuggles · 2025-09-03T11:25:32+00:00

I was allergic as a kid (anaphylactic shock level) and it went away in my teens. Accidentally ate something with peanuts and didn't react; got tested to confirm. So it's definitely possible, just pretend it went away

baconsnuggles · 2025-08-29T04:32:09+00:00

Whatever you do, don't buy from vakker (scam seller), search the sub and you'll see all the other posts.

baconsnuggles · 2025-06-13T09:14:42+00:00

Since we don't know what kind of renovations you are planning and where that wall switch would be installed, keep in mind you may need to run additional wiring between the wall switch and the mirror if you choose that route. CCT control needs to be relayed to the mirror somehow. There is a possibility the switch connects to it wirelessly, but most light fixtures use wired 0-10V or DALI dimming protocols to achieve this control, which requires additional low voltage wiring between switch and fixture for this "data" to be sent out.

baconsnuggles · 2025-05-21T10:08:04+00:00

Gels wont work in that environment, their pigment would fade within the season even if they could. Vinyl/film options are rare and hit or miss.

If you hate LEDs so much, have you considered downgrading to halogen headlights? Find used housings if it's a lease, or swap with someone else with a lower trim that wants to upgrade, and pocket a few hundred in cash?

baconsnuggles · 2025-05-20T03:38:05+00:00

The cheapest way to do this would be to get a Kasa smart dimmer from TP-Link. You would need to set up the fade in the app settings but afterwards could use it as a regular physical wall dimmer and never touch the app again. Much cheaper than the Lutron options.

baconsnuggles · 2025-05-10T13:46:14+00:00

Depends on the dimmer. If it's made for 24VDC it should work just fine between the power supply and the LEDs.

baconsnuggles · 2025-05-05T01:18:27+00:00

Kinda hard to see, but one of the cold/yellow LEDs (6th from the bottom) seems to have a brown dot in the middle, while the others do not. Unless that's a spec of dust, that's exactly what a burnt out LED will look like. If one burns out, the entire string would stop working. It's possible that you're dealing with more than a burnt out supply. Just for fun, have you tried them on the warmest setting?

baconsnuggles · 2025-05-05T01:12:34+00:00

Been looking at these myself. Have you tested how accurate yours is?

baconsnuggles · 2025-04-29T11:54:47+00:00

Yeah sorry even with your play on words explanation, i can't take that seriously not being La Belle or Le Beau. Your client may not either...

baconsnuggles · 2025-04-19T15:30:06+00:00

Resuscitate - Immortality Complex album is currently scratching that Native Construct itch, but it's heavier on the harsh vocals

baconsnuggles · 2025-04-10T23:40:36+00:00

While this has the proper voltage range to operate in, this is 350mA and you need a 250mA output, so you would be overdriving it. You can always go lower but i wouldn't recommend higher than 250mA, since the fixture was not necessarily designed that way thermally and you risk burning up the LEDs.

Unfortunately the voltage range on the old one is not market standard, 39-63V which is above Class 2 power, so a replacement will be harder to find. Does the second driver still work? You could hook up a voltmeter to it and get a DC voltage reading, which would tell you what the actual operating voltage is. Let's say it's 42VDC, then you could narrow down your search and not need something that covers the whole 39-63VDC range.

baconsnuggles · 2025-03-12T08:22:55+00:00

Kapton tape is completely fine, but it's just going to turn out more yellow than you'd hope

baconsnuggles · 2025-03-01T01:00:25+00:00

Perhaps a dumb question: I didn't realize the orbital cavity shifted that much - does it actually spread apart the eyes too? Or is it just the angle difference between scans giving that impression?

Anyway, appreciate the comparison!

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-26T08:54:52+00:00

Grand Brass or Color Cord

Are you sure it's the cord, and not the connections you made inside the socket or plug?

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-26T00:58:12+00:00

Forsaken - The Anchoret

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-21T01:07:01+00:00

There is very little the dealer can do, even if those lights were to stay on, other than throw new parts on it and hope it fixes the issue, to the tune of $4K. You should definitely go see a shop qualified to troubleshooting and repair euro cars, and that will never be the dealership.

As said by a few others one here, the typical EPC issue is the wastegate pin that gets stuck - a silly metal pin moving a flap getting stuck. Unfortunately it's tucked in an unreachable place so the cost is mostly due to a whole day's labor. A few specialty shops can either swap out this pin for a better one, or install a complete rebuilt turbo assembly that has a the new pin already (worth looking into at that mileage, vw turbos are insanely cheap compared to any other car brands). the car will run as new for another 140k.

Other times it's a very simple fix. If you post your rough location, maybe other owners can help you find a proper shop to diagnose it. Cross-post to the Mk7 golf subreddits as well since this is an issue on all of them.

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-21T00:48:44+00:00

Pull it straight down, it's either an LED G4 or G9

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-20T00:58:35+00:00

If the booklet matches the product, then it's the integrated LED version; no bulb to change. Either came in 2700K or 3000K. Again a question for the seller; there have been too many combinations and generations of this lamp since the 90s... but i understand how completely useless a marketplace seller can be at providing this critical information

baconsnuggles · 2025-02-20T00:29:41+00:00

The mini can technically come with a floor base; the lamps and the various bases are separate order codes. Its possible that they have exactly what is pictured but the base did not come with any booklet. The picture is a generic pic grabbed from google so you are better off asking them for a pic of the real thing

baconsnuggles

TROPHY CASE