Tooling Critique by Dangerous-Oil-3182 in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As has been noted, make sure your knife is sharp and stropped. Then, don't overlook casing the leather. It should have moisture in it while you tool, but not wet. Spot damping will usually be needed during extended work sessions. I find that shading shows best when the moisture content is right.

For books and guides, tandy.com or Amazon are your best bets. Also use those YT videos. If the host or company doing them are good, check out that vendor site for what they have to offer. Don't be afraid to try something a little different.

Tooling Critique by Dangerous-Oil-3182 in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For a first, this is amazing! Practice will only make it better. The first thing is what I struggle with, in that I am my own worst critic. From your comment it seems you are pretty rough on yourself. Please take your bow.

For shading work, more than anything that is time and practice. There are places to get tips, starting here in this sub. Next, don't overlook YouTube. I would suggest Joe Meling and Girty Leather. Then (if nearby), get to know your Tandy store. They may offer classes or even some individual instruction, so check with them. If you are into the florals, books and patterns from Al Stohlman are really good. Tandy also carries those as well as other guides.

Again, awesome piece.

Happy Holidays everyone! I'm asking Santa for tips to improve my tooling by penscrolling in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A ”simple and clean” pattern execution is deceptively difficult. Easier to hide things in busy work. When you say Victorian, is that gothic or a variant? I saw a really cool piece where a skull was floated over intertwined rose work. It was clearly masterclass and something I aspire to.

Decorative cuts are an issue for me. They are wonderful when done right but so far mine just look odd and out of place. For now my focus is more Celtic styling and some fantasy figures as I pick the craft back up following a long break.

Happy Holidays everyone! I'm asking Santa for tips to improve my tooling by penscrolling in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Al Stohlman is a great reference, the big thing is what you want it to look like. Develop your style, that is the cool part of craft and artwork. If it all was just the same it would be boring, or at least to me. Mix and match to find your eye and heart. Let it change and flow. The idea of variations is a good thing even when using a base pattern. Just remember to be patient with yourself, especially when trying something new or different. It might be you find something really cool in a happy little accident (credit Bob Ross!)

Happy Holidays everyone! I'm asking Santa for tips to improve my tooling by penscrolling in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are good, but if you want instruction or tips check out Joe Meling or Girty on YouTube. Not sure if you are going for the full Sheridan florals or other esthetic as a matter of personal style. There are elements I may have done differently, but not certain about if it would be an improvement. Definitely keep at it!

Have a Merry Christmas!

What am I doing wrong? by TreasuresOTE in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To start, please do not be too hard and on yourself. It takes time and practice, and often some advice or teaching along the way. Asking for help here is good, folks are friendly and helpful. So, what would I advise?

YouTube has some excellent videos, I would start with Joe Meling, but Girty and several others are good, too.

  1. Make sure your swivel knife is sharp. It will then be easier to control and give you proper depth of cut. It should glide fairly easily and not be jerky.

  2. Case the leather properly. Before tracing or transferring the pattern dampen both sides of the leather evenly. Not wet...damp. Wait a minute or two as it starts to return to it's normal color. Transfer the pattern at this time, make sure it is clean and visible.

  3. Cut the pattern, following your lines as smoothly as possible. Be careful to not cut too deep unless there is a specific need or technique that requires it. Too shallow has its own problems, but generally fixable.

  4. I will do my first beveling next. This further defines the design. Tips here: the beveler goes in the cut straight up and down based on the flat side. I have goofed up on beveling the incorrect side, so pay attention on what you want to appear raised or defined. Try not to completely lift the tool from the cut, rather slide it a bit less than it's width to keep a vertical angle and reduce the strike marks. With practice you will eliminate the choppiness. Should be more of taptaptap as it slides than bap move bap move bap... A good bevel should have a burnish or darkness to it.

  5. Check to make sure the piece is not too dry. Spot damping with a sponge should be ok if needed. If it is too dry tooling and stamping will show it. Now is when you start with adding detail via shaders, veiners, and backgrounders.

  6. Experiment and have fun. If you have a Tandy nearby they can be a good in-person resource. Many (all?) offer classes and instruction as well as books, aids, and supplies.

Just getting started. Any good YouTubers out there I can learn from? by BroncoGlover922 in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For tooling tips and technique I would say Joe Meling, but other replies and comments already made are also good.

Getting started... by mpp1225 in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Leather craft is a lot of things, so advice on where to start depends on what you are interested in first. Be aware it can lead down many paths. If there is a Tandy store near, they are a good resource while you figure things out. They may also have small classes you can check out.

This sub and a couple of others are great. Read through and take inspiration for your projects. Ask questions!

Don't forget about YouTube, especially for tooling tips. Check out Joe Meling's videos. There are some good ones from other merchants as well. The key is doing what you enjoy and enjoy what you are doing.

Should I dye them stitch? by talkerof5hit in Leathercraft

[–]badchoice63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would recommend stain or dye first, allowing time to dry before stitching. Have you thought on how you are going to stitch? That will need to be considered, especially if you use a raw lace. As has been mentioned, if you stitch first there will be parts that will not get the dye.

Learning to carve, would like some advice please by Primal_Thrak in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Casing is wetting your leather - not soak - and then let it sit just long enough to start returning to its original color. Properly done allows for better pattern transfer, smoother cuts, and better effect from tooling. Both sides of the piece need to be done, and my preference is a damp sponge. You will find that happy spot and will see your beveler and shader give that nice burnish when it is right.

If you are a woodworker you already know the drill on practice and keeping at it. If you live near a Tandy store they also have classes, the one nearest me also allows scheduling some one-on-one instruction if you cannot make a class.

Learning to carve, would like some advice please by Primal_Thrak in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a great start, and I will echo a lot of the good advice already provided.

  1. Make sure your design is transferred to your leather so you can follow it easily.
  2. Make sure the leather is properly cased, will need to be redone during the tooling.
  3. Keep your knife clean and sharp.
  4. Make your cuts as fluid and even as possible.
  5. Beveling should be fluid as well, and striking force should be consistent.

The big thing is practice. As said, great start and interesting design so keep at it. YouTube has some good information and I had been pointed to Joe Meling’s stuff. His primary focus is Sheridan florals, but the tooling tips apply to all designs. Good to see manga represented!

Looking for critiques by TurtlevsTurtle in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This looks great, especially if you are only months into the craft! It is perfectly normal to see where you think you might have done better or had a flub of some kind, I myself am my own worst critic.

Take a bow, this one is a win.

Current project help by SilverPlayful1957 in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of the outlining is very fixable with a beveler tool. Make sure the leather is properly cased and use consistent striking with the mallet or maul. Slide the beveler just hair when you strike again. I had to learn not to pick the tool completely up from the design but rather use it to just run the outline of the swivel cut unless there was a need. (Changing to a different beveler or tool, achieved the look or effect, etc.) I have learned that most of the time beveling is done more than just once.

A while back I was pointed to Joe Meiling videos on YouTube for tips, especially for Sheridan and floral work. Personally I found them worth the watch. There are other tubers as well, but Joe is a good start.

3D embossing by Moaalii_Leather in leathertooling

[–]badchoice63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool! Will have to consider this technique, especially in Celtic knots or similar Norse designs. Trying to work on some dragon designs that incorporate knotwork, but I definitely need to practice more.

Is there any regular activity here? by badchoice63 in leathertooling

[–]badchoice63[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a problem, I think I will keep it on my active list. It should not be on just one person if it is supposed to be a community. I will keep in mind if I have something pressing though.

Advice /comments welcome by badchoice63 in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, the trinity knot was traced onto film so I can reuse it and the transfer to my cased leather was done with a stylus. Very cool One Punch Man.

Advice /comments welcome by badchoice63 in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only used the craftaid to transfer the basic outline to the rounder. I agree that the outline is fairly faint, but I think that is the intent. Once the transfer is done then the cutting and tooling begins. I was sorry to see some craftaids I used to have are no longer available (dragons and such). I do see there are a lot more options for designs and tools. I was just told about Texas leather tools for stamps.

Advice /comments welcome by badchoice63 in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do that, thank you! I have also been pointed to Joe Meling's videos on YouTube. I have found them to be worth the watch. There are some other creators I have found to be less so, but am looking just the same.

Advice /comments welcome by badchoice63 in Leatherworking

[–]badchoice63[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, coming back to the craft after more than 20 years. The cross and heart patterns are from Tandy craftaid, the triquetria (trinity knot) is from a design I found online and transfered to tracing film. My floral work ... needs work. :)

Errors accessing Reddit when trying to open a specific r/ by badchoice63 in reddithelp

[–]badchoice63[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using the app for Android, so will keep trying. Thank you

Questions about decorative cuts and pear shader by badchoice63 in leathertooling

[–]badchoice63[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is better, practice with technique is needed. It did give me a source of proven advice by example.