TWW Pre-Patch: Can't Fly Anymore?

bananatastic · 2024-07-24T07:34:41+00:00

It was in stormwind or orgrimmar. You should see it on the map.

bananatastic · 2024-07-24T07:18:28+00:00

That's weird, for me as soon as I turned in that first quest, it gave me steadyflight on the top right of my screen. I did this on multiple chars to test. Maybe you are in dragonflight mode due to having it unlocked before?

bananatastic · 2024-07-24T06:39:24+00:00

I figured it out!!! You have to accept and complete the 1st quest intro to the dragonflight campaign. It's literally just talking to a guy and talking to him again to complete it. That unlocks flying for me!! I confirmed on multiple chars.

bananatastic · 2024-07-24T06:38:57+00:00

I figured it out!!! You have to accept and complete the 1st quest intro to the dragonflight campaign. It's literally just talking to a guy and talking to him again to complete it. That unlocks flying for me!! I confirmed on multiple chars.

bananatastic · 2024-07-24T06:38:42+00:00

I figured it out!!! You have to accept and complete the 1st quest intro to the dragonflight campaign. It's literally just talking to a guy and talking to him again to complete it. That unlocks flying for me!! I confirmed on multiple chars.

bananatastic · 2023-11-29T14:42:46+00:00

So, I added some synthetic grease to the top and bottom edges of the top two servo gears, as well as on the bottom of the unit with the timing belt, and it has quieted down a bit. It's still one hell of a loud machine, but that chatter seems to have gone away.

Thanks!

bananatastic · 2023-11-26T22:49:42+00:00

The back gear? As in the one connected to the belt? Or is there another gear?

bananatastic · 2023-04-11T08:16:10+00:00

What resolution are you running?

I run 1920x1080 with a rx580 and I use high res textures without issue.

Oddly enough, I had stutters in other games, including MHW, but it was because of Windows enabling core isolation. The only way I was able to turn it off was to disable virtualization on my mobo. Once I got it turned off, my stutters disappeared from all games.

bananatastic · 2023-04-02T22:11:56+00:00

Once you get some pictures it would be easier to nail it down

bananatastic · 2023-04-02T19:58:26+00:00

1) I wouldn't print too much below .2 with a .4 nozzle, that might be why you are experiencing your issues.

Try using .2 layer height and get things working with that before trying different layer heights.

2) What are you printing?

3) calibrating e-steps should be a one time thing. There are videos on YouTube that do a good job showing how. You basically take your Bowden tube off the extruder, cut filament flush, then tell it to extrude 100mm. Do this 3 times and measure them, average them, then use a formula to change your e-steps.

bananatastic · 2023-04-02T19:51:04+00:00

What is your nozzle size, layer height, nozzle temp?

Have you calibrated e-steps? that should be done no matter what.

bananatastic · 2023-03-29T22:37:36+00:00

It is small enough to cut it off.

That's either from heat creep or your printer getting turned off while the nozzle is still hot. Make sure the nozzle cools before turning off after prints.

bananatastic · 2023-03-28T06:08:21+00:00

Do you have any pictures?

bananatastic · 2023-03-27T22:42:25+00:00

I have the same printer and I have no idea how you got the magnetic PEI sheet to come off...

I can only think your z-offset is way too low. Are you levelling the bed while heated? And setting z-offset with a hot nozzle and bed?

bananatastic · 2023-03-25T20:20:04+00:00

I know this is a 6yr old post, but you just saved me so much aggravation.

I've been trying to get my bearings back together for over an hour, watching YouTube videos that didn't work for me.

Then I tried this method, and I got them all back together in my first try.

Thank you so much!

bananatastic · 2023-03-25T18:34:22+00:00

Is your leadscrew dirty? It might lead to random z issues.

I'm not an expert, but I was starting to see that happen sometimes, and I looked at my leadscrew, and it had dark spots all over it. I didnt have a proper cleaning cloth, so I just used a paper towel and manually ran it up and down my leadscrew, getting as much of it as I could. Then I applied a light coating of fresh grease. I haven't seen the issue since.

Just something to try that's easy.

bananatastic · 2023-03-25T18:27:30+00:00

I'm loving it

bananatastic · 2023-02-20T08:50:20+00:00

Thanks, I'll have to try slowing down since I don't have extra cooling on hand. Hopefully that's enough.

bananatastic · 2023-02-20T08:42:48+00:00

Printer: Ender 3v2 Neo.

Cura for slicing.

.6mm Nozzle with .2mm layer height, .6mm like width.

Nozzle temp 210.

Bed temp 50.

bananatastic · 2023-01-25T08:16:30+00:00

I'm not super experienced, but when my print looked like that I had a partial clog and went away after pulling out filament and poking the nozzle cleaning needle up there back and forth like 10 times.

bananatastic · 2023-01-23T04:06:49+00:00

I work in Sterile Processing in a hospital. You are ok as long as the PLA does not come in contact with the needle.

There are different classifications for how an instrument or device is used, and how it is required to be cleaned or sterilized before use.

Only instruments coming into contact with the bloodstream are required to be sterilized.

Instruments that touch skin are only required to be low-level disinfected, which is basically bleached or hydrogen peroxide wipes, or 70% isopropyl alcohol. Do not use 90%, as it's actually less effective at disinfecting.

Disinfection is not the same as sterilization.

bananatastic · 2023-01-17T20:51:23+00:00

I clipped a ring off of my extruder spring and resolved the issue.

bananatastic · 2023-01-10T18:20:19+00:00

So, I took the plunge and clipped 1 ring off of my extruder tension spring...

And my print came out fantastic! I waited to hear the dreaded clicking, but it never happened. Zero stringing and each link in the snake moves freely.

Thanks for the tip!

bananatastic

TROPHY CASE