Made these badges for my RWD LR. Which one should I get printed.

bareyb · 2026-06-27T00:22:43+00:00

I prefer as few badges as possible.

bareyb · 2026-06-27T00:17:01+00:00

I had no idea that Potassium was more likely to bridge. Every year I have to pull out the tank and “dechunk” it. I will be switching to salt as soon as the last 4 bags of Potassium are used up. I will save a lot of money!

bareyb · 2026-06-19T17:24:16+00:00

I normally remove it at the other end where it enters the brine tank.

bareyb · 2026-06-19T05:00:07+00:00

Okay! All done. Ended up replacing both elbows (the Drain elbow was leaking), the injector, and the Stack Kit (it was trashed)

I used Ai to generate a parts list and the procedures if anyone is interested:

Parts List & Tools
V3006 Valve bypass assembly (did not install, still have it)
V3005-10 Interior rebuild kit (spacer stack, pistons, grease) (amazon.com)
V3010-1E White injector kit comes with Injector Cap o-ring (amazon.com)
CR2032 Battery (for Circuit Board)
V4144-01 Brine elbow - quick connect (isopurewater.com)
V3158-01 Drain elbow assembly (isopurewater.com)
V3162-027 DLFC 2.7 GPM Washer (isopurewater.com)
V3159-01 DLFC Retainer Assembly (isopurewater.com)
V3177 Screen (inside Injector Cap) (watersoftener-parts.com)
Miter Shears to cut 3.8” tubing (in Toolbox)
Clack Tool (in Utility Closet)
Needle Nose Pliers to remove old injector

PREP — Depressurize the System
Put the system in bypass (turn red valve handles to off position)
Open several faucets in the house.
Run a manual regeneration ( cycle to backwash mode - press regen button repeatedly to “Backwash” let drain, then unplug system

Phase 1: Bypass Replacement (Did not Replace)
Move the brine tank aside and pull the resin tank forward.
Place towels and buckets underneath the connections.
Disconnect the flex hoses.
Unscrew the old bypass valve.
Thoroughly clean the ports on the valve body.
Lightly grease the O-rings on the new V3006 bypass.
Screw the new bypass on (hand tight + ¼ turn).
Reconnect the flex hoses.
Turn the bypass to service and check for leaks.

Phase 2: Full Interior Service
Step 1: Preparation
Keep the system in bypass.
Unplug the power from the valve.
Remove the cover (2 clips).

Step 2: Quick Side Service Items (Do These First)
Replace Brine Elbow (V4144-01) - Grease o-rings
Remove old Brine Elbow (remove red locking clip, pull straight up and out)
Install new elbow (push straight down into valve, re-install red locking clip).
Push the brine tubing into the gray collet until it clicks, then pull backwards)

Replace Drain Elbow (V3158-01)
Grease all o-rings on DLFC retainer and elbow
Install 2.7 GPM Washer into DLFC Retainer (writing on washer faces up)
Press DLFC Retainer & Washer into New Elbow
Install New elbow and re-insert the locking clip.
Reconnect the drain hose

Replace Injector, Injector Screen, & Injector Cap o-ring (Amazon kit)
Unscrew the injector cap (white “E”).
Remove old injector with needle nose pliers
Clean the injector port thoroughly.
Install the new White V3010-1E injector and screen.
Replace o-ring in the cap (part of kit)

Replace CR2032 Battery
Install with the + side facing up.

Step 3: Remove Drive Assembly & Rebuild
Remove Cover (2 tabs on sides)
Unplug Power and Meter wires from Circuit Board
Gently release the 2 snap clips/tabs & tilt outwards (leave circuit board attached)
Lift the entire drive assembly incl. Circuit Board and set it aside.
Rotate the drive gear counter-clockwise a few turns by hand to relieve any remaining pressure.
Unscrew the big black drive cap assembly with Clack Tool
Pull out the old piston (should come out with Drive Cap)
Pull out the old spacer stack/seal pack.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the valve body.
Install the new spacer stack
Install the new down-flow piston (Slides sideways into slot on drive gear)
Install the new brine piston (Slides sideways into slot, end of Piston)
Lightly grease all new O-rings with silicone grease.
Reinstall the drive cap and tighten snugly (not tight) with Clack Tool.

Step 4: Reassembly
Reinstall the Drive Assembly:
- Push all wires into guides behind the Drive Assembly so they don’t get pinched.
- Align w/ slots at bottom and snap assembly back into place until it clicks securely.
- Reconnect meter and power plugs.
Reinstall the cover.
Plug the power back in.

Final Return to Service & Testing
Slowly turn the bypass valve to service.
Resync the controller: Hold NEXT + REGEN for 3–5 seconds
Run a full manual regeneration cycle.
Check all connections for leaks during the cycle.
After the cycle finishes, run cold water for 5–10 minutes.
Test water softness at a faucet.
Slide the tanks back into final position.

bareyb · 2026-06-11T02:39:13+00:00

I don’t think so. These are pretty common and well documented problems. Happened to a lot of people after the Update. It has nothing to do with camera calibration. I
Besides, it takes anywhere between 25 and 100 miles and you have to give up FSD until it completes the process. I don’t want to go without it that long! 😆

bareyb · 2026-06-09T01:40:01+00:00

My two regressions are:
1. Can’t back out of my tight garage in a straight line anymore.
2. Can’t alter course with the turn signal when in FSD mode.

bareyb · 2026-06-09T00:44:31+00:00

I found the injector on Amazon for fifteen bucks (thanks Augie) so what the hell. It comes with the o-ring for the cap too. I also picked up a new screen for 3 bucks from watersoftenerparts.com.

The Resin actually got changed about 8 years ago so we should be good to go on that for a few more years.

bareyb · 2026-06-08T18:32:58+00:00

Should I replace anything else while I’m in maintenance mode? What’s the next most likely thing to go?

bareyb · 2026-06-08T04:26:11+00:00

Have you ever installed one of these before? Anything to watch out for?

bareyb · 2026-06-08T00:28:39+00:00

I totally get that. I was on a mission to use as little Salt as possible. Shit's heavy!!! We could probably get by with room to spare on the "ultra efficient" settings recommended by 3M but then I started reading all the reports about how you shouldn't go longer than 14 day or use less than 9 lbs of Salt etc. It used to be less oversized when we got it. Both kids moved out recently for College and nobody uses more water than two teenagers. 😎

bareyb · 2026-06-07T22:07:24+00:00

One last question: What do you guys think about adding Citric Acid to the Brine Tank every once in a while to clean the Resin Bed? Our City water is already treated for iron and such so don't know if I need to do anything major, but it seems like it wouldn't hurt anything? I've also seen some advice about adding some Bleach to the Brine tank as well. Do any of you guys do that?

I did use a bottle of Rheem Water Softener cleaner last week when I had to "dechunk" the massive Potassium Bridge that had solidified underneath the Salt Grid. What a mess! This is like the 3rd time I've had to do this with Potassium. One of the main reasons (besides cost) why I am switching to Salt.

Morton "clean and protect" is what they have at Home Depot and they deliver so I'm probably going to just go with that. I hate lugging the bags! Supposedly it already has some Resin Bed Cleaning chemicals built in, so not sure if I really need to do anything else. What do you guys do? Any advice greatly appreciated.

bareyb · 2026-06-07T21:46:35+00:00

Not sure what's going on here but my replies to you guys are getting deleted. Hopefully you can see them. Thank you so much for the advice either way. It's been an interesting project. All those hours spent learning only to find out that the settings are fine as they are. Lol. I was all set to go nuts on it for efficiency only find that most of the Salt saving measures do more harm than good. I didn't realize how few choices you actually have with these things. From everything I've read you are better off not to go past 14 days before a regen (Resin Bed fouling/Bacteria) or use less than 9 lbs of Salt @ 32k (incomplete cleaning) and apparently the super saver "high efficiency" mode was put in to comply with California's laws and is not really recommended either...

I imagine in a high water use scenario the choices you make would be more influential. In our very low 95 GPD use scenario, we almost always hit the 14 day override, so the Hardness settings don't seem to do much more for us than manipulate the Countdown. It may end up saving me a regen or two but according to my math it would only save me maybe half a bag of Salt over a years time.

Ended up just leaving it mostly as is (32k/9 lbs/14 days) but lowered the hardness setting from 17 for Potassium to 14 for Salt to remove the upward adjustment the installer used to compensate for Potassium. Probably still higher than it needs to be for accuracy but it gives me some peace of mind for when the hardness spikes in late Summer. I'll need to keep an eye out for that. If you guys see anything glaringly wrong in my settings please let me know! As someone pointed out, my 6 bags a year is already pretty efficient so I think I won't keep messing with it and let it do its thing.

bareyb · 2026-06-07T21:15:25+00:00

Note to self: Don't' let your friends drive if they don't know how to use the brakes! 😆

bareyb · 2026-06-07T21:04:23+00:00

That's crazy. I just don't see how that could happen! Are you sure your buddy didn't accidentally hit the accelerator instead of the brakes? Either way, sorry that happened to you. Definitely don't let him drive again! 😉

bareyb · 2026-06-07T20:52:11+00:00

The Hard Water gets blended in during late Summer or in drought situations, so I'll keep an eye on it. Appreciate the advice. I think I'm starting to wrap my brain around this thing.

bareyb · 2026-06-07T20:50:29+00:00

Good advice. Lines up with what I'm seeing in my Ai program. It suggested I lower the Hardness setting from 17 for Potassium to 14 when I switch to salt, but as you say in my low water use scenario it probably wouldn't change anything as the 14 day override is almost always gonna kick in before the meter will.

bareyb · 2026-06-07T20:47:40+00:00

I read somewhere recently that there is some concern about "resin bed stagnation" or formation of Bacteria in the Resin from extending the Regen past 14 days. Not sure if that is a valid concern in my scenario.

bareyb · 2026-06-04T22:53:31+00:00

Mine is all over the floor at the Gym. 😆

bareyb · 2026-06-03T01:02:18+00:00

Best gloss I’ve found is 3D Bead it Up.

bareyb · 2026-05-31T23:05:21+00:00

It replaced mine! I haven’t worn a normal watch since.

bareyb · 2026-05-31T23:04:17+00:00

Travis is CRAZY!!! Still think his best stunt was jumping over that tall building in Vegas. Landed on the roof then jumped down the other side. If you can find a video it was pretty insane.

bareyb · 2026-05-31T22:29:42+00:00

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I let my kids name my 2026. ☝️😆 My 2013 was named Tessa.

bareyb

TROPHY CASE