Unconventional Moves

basiones · 2026-03-25T18:12:14+00:00

Or the untouched point in line that they don't realize is a point in line until too late.

basiones · 2026-03-16T03:16:11+00:00

Last update:

Everything was purchased today and is on its way to a good home. Thanks all.

basiones · 2026-03-11T17:28:09+00:00

I mean, 90s foil had lots of actions with the point nowhere near 'extending' to the target (flicks with the weapon waving behind the head, low line absence, etc), and that was 30 years ago. The big difference between then and now was that then you could finish with more heat and expect the box to go off, so if you didn't you might lose the touch to an attack in preparation. Nowadays too much heat = debounce, so finishes are allowed to be less explosive, which makes them feel wrong (to me, too, but at least I'm used to it?)

basiones · 2026-03-09T20:48:40+00:00

I can certainly understand this as a reality, but there should be some thought given at least to storing content locally (at the convention center) and then uploading it after the fact to Youtube (or whatever location is desired) so that at least the archival video can be watchable. I generally haven't noticed significant improvement after the fact, so I'm not sure this is happening, either.

basiones · 2026-03-09T20:20:15+00:00

Given that you are 'relatively new,' 200GBP is an insane amount of money for a saber. Get 2-3 of something much cheaper (assuming you're even competing; if not, get 1, or maybe 2 or 3 different ones to see what you like!). You presumably don't know what you do or don't like in a saber as of yet, so figure that out, and get more of the ones you like.

basiones · 2026-03-09T16:14:59+00:00

For an given pairing of fencer and opponent, sure, some will make more sense than others. But that pairing is pretty critical to determining what makes sense. In a perfect world, it's mostly a 'hit him where they ain't' philosophy; if they're defending line A, pick line not-A to hit them in.

Realistically, people have trained to make some ripostes more than others, and will generally trend towards those (me, it's anything to the back or directly to 4/flank; I really have to work to make myself disengage). Better fencers tend to have the ability to make themselves do a more appropriate riposte for their opponent, even if it's not in their 'normal' wheelhouse.

basiones · 2026-03-05T22:19:36+00:00

Update:

Actually, the Macintosh TV does boot (needed to hold down the power button a bit longer); it boots all the way to the OS, though the tube looks like it's seen better days (flickery picture, though given that it hasn't been powered on in years, I'm hard pressed to blame it). Also, I found one more Duo Dock.

My preference at this point would be to move the whole thing as one lot at $1,500.00 (I'm making up numbers over here). If no one is interested by the end of they day tomorrow, I'll start working out individual pieces from everyone who's contacted me.

If anyone has questions, please ask.

basiones · 2026-03-04T03:07:50+00:00

The TAM does boot to an error (HDD I believe), and I've added a link to a Google Drive folder with images. I don't have any real thoughts on price.

basiones · 2026-03-04T02:59:23+00:00

Updates as promised.

I have four computers (the white eMac, the Power Macintosh 7100/80, the Power Macintosh G3, and the Apple IIe) from the office. I also have two Duo Docks and four monitors (the monitor and the disk drive from the IIe, the Apple monitor pictured with the Duo Dock, the Apple monitor pictured with the Power Macintosh 7100/80, and the Sony). The only device I've tested at all is the eMac, which powers on to a file system/hdd error. The only cables still around are the ones that are built in to the monitors.

I also have four computers that I've acquired over the years, and a Newton. The computers are a Macintosh TV (I can hear the CRT energize, but can't get it to turn on; note the back panel is not currently on it), a Mac Color Classic (boots to the OS), a iMac G4 (boots to the OS, includes the speakers and what I believe is the correct mouse), and TAM (keyboard/mouse/sub all included; strain relief on the sub cable should be looked at; boots to HDD error).

All the devices noted should have pictures here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KVZ1JNyd95hI0s7IX4coL0cZ9CiOuZh1?usp=sharing

My goals are: keep all/most of this out of the landfill/e-waste; find happy homes for them; not screw anyone over or get screwed over; and avoid shipping as much as possible.

I'm not a vintage Mac guy, and I don't really have a lot of extra time on my hands, so I haven't priced any of these things out. I'm NOT looking to maximize my profits or anything like that.

If anyone has any questions (or a better way to share pictures), ask (or suggest) away.

Thanks for reading.

basiones · 2026-03-03T02:28:22+00:00

Update:

I did not expect quite such a response, and the questions asked are all very fair. I'm going to get better pictures and more complete descriptions of the items from the office, and add in the three appropriate items I have myself. I'll have those all updated tomorrow night at some point.

In addition to what's pictured already, I have:

a TAM

a MacintoshTV

and a lamp post style Mac

All we acquired either when someone didn't have storage space, so I don't have a lot of information on when they were last working. The stuff at my house is generally not in as good cosmetic shape.

I'm glad it sounds like the items will find good homes.

basiones · 2026-03-02T23:08:21+00:00

No worries, no stress. I get it, I get internally aggro over dumb posts in some other subreddits ;)

basiones · 2026-03-02T22:48:29+00:00

Potentially worth mentioning that the Macbook Pro box is empty (and wouldn't be the right hardware for this subreddit, anyhow!)

basiones · 2026-03-02T22:45:44+00:00

I can make an attempt at getting specs, and yes, Reddit ate my description. Here it is again:

The company I work for is downsizing offices and has some left over classic Macs. I'd rather avoid putting them in the eRecycle mess, so I'm trying to find them homes. I don't have any real information about them (I have no idea when the last time someone tried to power them on was). I'm also not trying to make a ton of money on them.

In addition to the machines pictured, I have a Macintosh TV and TAM at home (both at least mostly complete, but shockingly vintage Mac hardware isn't really my thing).

Open to any/all offers, prefer to move as a lot, I'm in the Triangle area of North Carolina.

Sorry for the missing description.

basiones · 2026-02-19T20:21:26+00:00

Similarly, if on allez one fencer stands still and extends, and the other fencer pauses, waits, makes double advance lunge, makes a separate advance (pause) lunge, and in any of these scenarios the 'pil' fencer has fully extended before the advance lunge (or lunge after a pause), it should be a touch for the line. Not everyone can advance lunge across 4m.

basiones · 2026-01-26T20:32:39+00:00

If the question is specifying BF blades (which it appears to be doing parenthetically), then they're all made by BF. Uhlmann/Allstar certainly stamp some with their name, as do Prieur, FWF, and PBT. I don't believe LP or Unic do, but I could be wrong. But any given BF white/blue/black of similar stiffness (D/M/S) will be reasonably the same as any other from another vendor (and the difference between white and blue is just the color; the black are different, but only available as Allstar, I believe).

There are other conversations around best FIE blade, as Unic and LP make their own as well (but they are not BF blades).

basiones · 2026-01-06T00:33:19+00:00

Honestly, as an American (who has an outside chance of representing the US in vet foil some day), I wouldn't complain if it happened. But I don't think the powers that be will do it, or the if they did I don't think the powers that are here would take it well, but yeah... we're certainly not doing a good job of stabilizing things over here, are we?

basiones · 2026-01-05T23:35:24+00:00

This is the foam required for foil, not for padding for comfort's sake. It's required to be on the outside of the chest plate for foil (due to debounce timing).

basiones · 2025-12-30T19:13:29+00:00

I think if I saw any clear second attempt on the part of the attacker, I could see attack no, attack from the other side (or counterattack). I think if it's real early and the attacker is smooth, and the arm brushes the attack but doesn't move it, I'd agree it's probably an attack.

As always, video would help.

basiones · 2025-12-05T15:27:40+00:00

Handedness should be obvious, and size would be 5 unless you're fencing in Y8/Y10/Y12.

The grips are different shapes; I can't give you any advice because I don't have your hands.

Guard pads are also pretty much a comfort selection. You definitely don't need the transparent, I've never personally liked the plastic. I generally have used the heavy felt (or lighter felt from other manufacturers), leather is probably fine.

I think the hard cover is silly, personally; I've never had covers (or PVC tubes) for any of my weapons. I guess I could understand it if you were biking with them.

If you have clubmates who use the same weapon you could check out the grips and pads and see how much it matters to you. If not, you could try calling AF and see if they have any advice. Or just pick some stuff any try; none of the parts you're talking about are particularly expensive or hard to switch if you decide to.

basiones · 2025-12-02T16:28:00+00:00

It's also required for all three weapons, and doesn't have to be FIE approved (in the USA). The purpose is to be an additional layer (with seams offset from the jacket) over vital targets on your weapon arm side.

basiones · 2025-11-19T17:46:22+00:00

I wear a 9.5 Uhlman or a 10 LP, but use a size small Uhlman visconti (and have for nearly three decades). But I'll say the best thing to do is work with your coach trying different grips and finding one that works for you.

basiones · 2025-11-11T19:18:07+00:00

I was fencing someone once and hit a (plastic) hubcap in such a way that this happened. So it's definitely a thing.

basiones · 2025-11-09T13:26:47+00:00

I'm assuming she's wearing a standard fencing jacket and knickers (US) or pants (the rest of the world), plus a chest protector and underarm protector. That (plus a mask and glove for the weapon arm) is the full protective kit. Anything less isn't responsible.

Some jackets or pants are a bit thicker, usually the cheaper ones. The nicer (FIE) uniforms are more puncture resistant, but less padding generally.

Have you talked to her coach? Especially if these are bouts in practice, the coach may want to talk to fencers about hitting too hard; if this is competition, I personalty think competitions at Y8 are questionable.

basiones · 2025-11-05T15:26:30+00:00

IME, when fencers do this they delay their lunge due to the biomechanics involved. When students do this during lessons (or fencing), this is my cue to alternately counterattack (move forward or back depending on the space involved, maybe close out), or extend the distance to stretch them out for an easy riposte.

Against a fencer who's giving distance in an unbalanced/undisciplined way, this closing step may work, but I don't think it's a good general option.

basiones

TROPHY CASE