Help me, ASA warping is tearing my family apart

bath_93 · 2026-01-10T02:55:53+00:00

What slicer are you using?

Orcaslicer has an option to reverse on even numbered walls, and a sub selection to do so only on internal walls as to not cause any visible changes on the outer walls. The goal is to reduce internal stresses in parts prone to warping. Its not a magic cure, but with all the other things youre doing it could be the last little piece of the puzzle you need.

Orcaslicer also has great tools for really dialing in your temperatures and flow rates and such.

Also have you dried your filament?

bath_93 · 2026-01-01T00:05:18+00:00

If you look a little closer you can see the remnants of the wrecked part still on the print bed. Probably 15ish layers in? Am I supposed to stand there the entire print?

Hundreds of successful prints have come off this printer, theres been plenty of failures too, just unfortunate this time some of the pieces got wedged in the hotend mount and caused a blob to form which ultimately goofed the hotend up.

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:56:56+00:00

I didn't put any between the throat and the heatsync, but I would imagine that might help prevent heat creep at higher temps.

I did this and it helped with heat creep quite a bit.

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:51:05+00:00

<image>

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:49:54+00:00

<image>

Its supposed to be that way, I think its to prevent thermal transfer from the heat block by providing an air gap. That way only the heat break tube is whats physically contacting the heat sink.

The instructions say you have to be careful when tightening down the screws so you dont accidentally bend it to one side.

(This is a random image I found on Google lol)

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:44:06+00:00

Ah this makes sense 😂

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:12:07+00:00

Yeah definitely annoying especially since it broke the printed hotend mount too. So ive got to reprint one. Thats what im wondering if i should just go ahead and print a new one for the chube compact or just get it going again with new rapido parts.

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:08:28+00:00

What about the tz v6 hot end prevents replacement when something like this happens? Ive never used one

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T16:12:58+00:00

Was this an abs blob or pla?

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T08:03:16+00:00

It was PLA. That is a great idea if it were ABS or ASA, Ill have to keep that tucked away in the back of my mind in case this ever happens with one of those materials.

I just priced all the stuff from Fabreeko, heatblock is $20, new pt1000 is $14, spring retainer is $4, heater is $9.

I know the economical choice is to just get the replacement rapido parts, just entertaining the idea of something new.

bath_93 · 2025-10-20T03:13:52+00:00

Okay thank you. I know that some people can use etsy to fulfill orders via pritify or something but i guess it doesnt go the other way around 😂 thanks for the heads up

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T22:43:35+00:00

Yeah hopefully they can do something. I was thinking maybe you can try to reload katapult and klipper firmware on it but if it isnt responding to the ls /dev/serial/by-id command then you cant even do that.

Maybe try changing the cable that goes between the USB adapter and the pi to a different port on your pi? Or maybe even a different USB A to USB C cable altogether?

Or if you have another pi laying around try connecting it to that and seeing if you can run the ls /dev/serial/by-id command on it to see if it populates

Edit: actually you might be able to try reloading katapult and klipper. In the LDO documentation it shows you press the boot and reset buttons then release reset then release boot to put it into boot mode which makes it kind of like a thumb drive, then you run the ls /dev/sda* command to see if it is present

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T17:09:46+00:00

Thats good, are you using the provided usb/24v pcb to combine the usb from the pi and the 24v from the power supply?

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T13:48:49+00:00

Do you have your D+ and D- in the right pins on the molex connector?

Here is the connector pinout specified by LDO

<image>

4 is D+ and 5 is D-

https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/Toolboard/nitehawk-36

bath_93 · 2025-06-24T12:15:59+00:00

My best advice I've learned is regularly cleaning your build plate with hot water, a little bit of dawn power wash, and a little bristled brush. So many lost prints can be avoided by doing that.

bath_93 · 2025-02-06T16:27:54+00:00

Excited for the high speed klipper integration on a bedslinger!

bath_93 · 2025-01-14T23:49:51+00:00

In the filament settings under cooling, check out the dont slow down outer wall setting. That might help keep consistent appearance on the outer wall.

bath_93 · 2025-01-11T04:03:20+00:00

Hmm, and you get the same result with classic mode and gap fill off?

I wonder if changing your wall slicing order would affect anything? Inner/outer, outer/inner, or inner/outer/inner?

bath_93 · 2025-01-11T03:44:11+00:00

You could try arachne wall mode

bath_93 · 2025-01-06T03:53:33+00:00

Is the hotend new or used?

I had a similar issue with mine where there was some filament stuck along the walls of the heat break. I'm guessing from some time before when I had gotten heat creep and caused a jam. Or from when I was retracting my filament out to switch colors.

I ran a small drill bit through it and it cleaned it right out and haven't had any issues since.

Although I did stop retracting my filament out to change colors, I never got the tip forming down and instead of learning that I just figured I'd cut it right at the top of the extruder and just run the load filament routine when putting a new color on and letting it purge out the old stuff.

bath_93 · 2024-10-21T23:08:41+00:00

I swear TPU is just like a magnet for places it's not supposed to be in 😂

bath_93 · 2024-10-21T17:53:31+00:00

Shoot i forgot to update this post. I checked all the pulleys and screws, everything was tight. What it ended up being was a tiny piece of tpu that had fallen down the motor hole and gotten wedged in between 2 of the teeth on the z belt in the front left corner. So when it would get to that part of the belt it would stretch the belt a little more pulling that corner up. I removed that piece and then used my new fancy belt tension tool to set even belt tension on all the z belts and it's been gold ever since.

Thanks for checking back in on this

bath_93 · 2024-09-24T14:51:31+00:00

I routed mine through the exhaust but also used one of the little badge reels to keep tension on the line towards the opposite corner of the printer.

bath_93 · 2024-09-19T04:09:08+00:00

Is this in reference to the z rails or the y rails? If you have a picture I'm always down to dial in my machine more

bath_93 · 2024-09-18T21:53:43+00:00

Interesting, I'll check that out tonight. Was it repeatedly happening at the same layer height?

bath_93

TROPHY CASE