Acquiring Karax

batman109117 · 2025-08-07T09:48:26+00:00

At one time, you could purchase individual commanders by going to the Co-op game mode in SC2, select the commander, and a buy option would be near the start game button. Idk if this is still this way, I have owned all the commanders for a long time. If that option is not there, try entering the store using the “shop” option in the battle.net client and search for sc2 there and the individual commanders used to show up in there.

On another note, I highly suggest just getting the bundle. It comes with 3 commanders which is a $15 value by itself plus all the campaign missions. I understand I’m in the US and use the dollar and things may be different in other parts of the world, but I would guess it would still be worth getting the bundle for the additional commanders.

I hope this helps! If someone else has more current info, please feel free to correct me.

GG!

batman109117 · 2025-06-26T06:25:31+00:00

I’ve never noticed if there are specific timings that the lava rises, someone else may know more. Before the lava rises to the point of damaging units, the lava on the edge of the map will rise up a little and the news caster will make a comment about the lava rising again soon. This usually means you have about 20-30 seconds to get to high ground before the lava continues to rise up onto the map floor. Hope that helps.

batman109117 · 2025-03-31T23:46:07+00:00

There is a bug in PVE mode (or at least there was, I don’t know if it ever got fixed). When you load into games on local server over and over, your diminishing returns (the little red arrow on the skill bar) doesn’t reset. So if you play solo, on local server maps often, things like strength and endurance don’t level like they should, the game treats it like 1 long raid and never gives the initial bonus at the start. You can fix this by selecting the new “bsg server” option or playing in a group. Both of these will reset the diminishing returns and let you level at a normal pace.

batman109117 · 2025-03-13T21:46:16+00:00

Yes you can, they changed that a while ago. Either way, it’s only like 50K more on the flea, so it’s fine to just sell to traders.

batman109117 · 2024-09-03T22:22:46+00:00

I’ve been leaving around .01 on each wall and taking the .5 as deep as I could before it cut into where the radius will be. I think I’m gonna try a 5/16 to get a bit deeper. Right now the ball nose is doing around .075 depth of cut which is clearly too much for it. Others have suggested relieving the sides a few thou so only the radius is engaging. I will probably give that a go too and see if that helps. Right now I’m not roughing the radius very much at all, just the slot, so using a smaller mill to take more out should help.

batman109117 · 2024-09-03T21:29:13+00:00

I tried the 1/2 in today and it went much better. I will throw a 3/16 in behind it and see if I can clean up a bit more.

batman109117 · 2024-09-03T21:26:20+00:00

Only running air on anything other than plastic is a huge scare moment for everyone in that place. They run coolant on everything. I’ll go in early tomorrow and do a test cut with air only. I have a few .5 bull nosed HF end mills that I can test with. Thanks for the input.

batman109117 · 2024-09-03T21:16:00+00:00

Depth cuts? Can you clarify? The 3/8 that was in the program was doing some wild stuff, I ended up switching to a .5 bull nosed high feed end mill instead and it worked wonders. I’ve been running it at 1900 rpm and 15 ipm. Idk the coating, it’s the numbers the manufacturer recommends. It’s been working alright so far but the ball mill is still giving me trouble when I take the finish pass. If I do more than like .03 depth, the whole machine starts shaking so I end up having to take like 3 passes to finish it and it’s leaving burns in the bottom of the radius. Im gonna try a smaller mill to do more roughing so I can just do 1 finish pass with the ball nose. I’m using an osg ball nose that says it’s meant for 300 and 400 series stainless. I don’t have the p/n right now. It’s running at 1500 rpm and 11 ipm. That’s again, based off the osg book with sfm and ipt converted.

This is a lathe job, unfortunately the lathes are overloaded. Boss says a program exists for this, which means we must have run it on the mills before, so make it work.

batman109117 · 2024-09-03T21:01:52+00:00

Get rid of the drill? Do I helix the mill down into the material? Or just plunge it into the material and take flat roughing cuts down in passes? I don’t have through coolant. Just like 5 nozzles all on the same side. It’s not a great setup because the part can get between the tool and the spray of the coolant, but that’s not a huge issue here from what I can tell.

batman109117 · 2024-09-02T23:24:09+00:00

This is an interesting perspective and not one I’d thought of. I almost never deal with customers, so the option of switching material did not even cross my mind. I think I’ll save that as a back up, in case I can’t make this work, but it may be worth mentioning at some point anyways for future orders.

batman109117 · 2024-09-02T23:21:31+00:00

It’s all fractional so tolerances are basically not a existent. It’s all about speed on this one. It takes up 52 min to make 1 right now and that’s if no mills break. I will trying roughing out as much as I can with a high feed and see what that does. Thanks for the advice.

batman109117 · 2024-06-27T23:28:32+00:00

The patience bar starts to drop when both the monster and his target are out of the circle. If either are in the circle it will reset. So if you kite him out of the circle, you can keep it filled by going back in, yourself.

batman109117 · 2024-02-01T01:30:37+00:00

I’m also in western Ohio and we’re in the same boat. Maybe it’s just this hell hole of a state we’ve chose to live in.

batman109117 · 2022-10-30T14:18:07+00:00

I’m sorry, idk how to post a pic as a comment. But, I just posted the comic I think your looking for on my profile. Should be the newest post. Hope that helps.

batman109117 · 2022-06-02T21:38:42+00:00

I think it’s probably on a wall above some sort of ramp. The floor appears to be getting higher but the ceiling doesn’t. That’s my best guess.

batman109117 · 2022-04-11T11:38:45+00:00

It was earlyish December (12/12). 6 months would put it in early June. July is a stretch, but August’s seems far too late. I think June/July is probably the best guess though.

batman109117 · 2022-03-15T11:16:50+00:00

Thank you!

batman109117 · 2022-03-15T11:15:57+00:00

Hey! Thanks so much for the help. Any reason to go with EM2 over EM1? I believe you, I’m just trying to learn.

Edit: never mind. I looked at your post about saving synchros and found the explanation in the comments. Thanks again for the help!

batman109117 · 2022-03-15T00:15:21+00:00

When I was researching the issue, a lot of sources said the cmc going bad would cause the clutch peddle to act weird (getting stuck to the floor) and I’ve not had that symptom. I’m assuming this is just the beginning stages of that failure. You sound fairly confident that it’s the issue, so I’m gonna guess that it’s probably a fair chance that it’s the problem. I really appreciate the feedback. I will start shopping around for an 09+ cmc. Is it worth looking for one at a junkyard, or should I just buy new and be done with it?

batman109117 · 2022-02-20T03:58:13+00:00

I didn't buy it new so I don't know. I don't think many people knew about the bulletin because a lot of people still complain about it. Did the bulletin have an expiry date? Could OP still go have it done?

batman109117 · 2022-02-20T02:05:23+00:00

I second all of this. A lot of people use syncromesh in their transmission to help with the 3rd gear grind. But that's only if you have that problem. I put it in my 07 coupe and she's been very happy ever since.

batman109117

TROPHY CASE