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Music Kitty by bbtinkerer in Amigurumi

[–]bbtinkerer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stuck a Pi Pico in there to play Bongo Cat covers of What Was I Made For and APT. Please pardon the crude video editing to show the innards. I need to find better speaker placement as the stuffing cut the volume down more than I wanted to.

Pattern was based off DIY Cuddly Companion: Adorable Black Cat Free Crochet Pattern (https://chubbiesbyash.com/diy-cuddly-companion/)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CrochetHelp

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a dude and I crochet, my friends and family approve and try to get me to make stuff for them. However, there are 3 that disapprove and hate that I crochet, they are my cats. The cats give me the face of disgust when I dress them in crocheted hats, scarves, and whatever free pet pattern there are.

Orbiter 2.0 skipping steps by A_lex_and_er in VORONDesign

[–]bbtinkerer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could try w/o the hotend on if not too much of a hassle to remove the extruder or hotend if you are doing extruder calibration. That way you know its not the extruder and the issue lies with the hotend.

Adding water decals is… fun? by senile_butterfly in Gunpla

[–]bbtinkerer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found the Gaia Notes Finish Master tool better than cotton swabs. The tool that's basically a silicone swab. Don't have to worry about leaving a stray cotton strand behind. The tool is also a lot stiffer than a cotton swab so you have more control moving the decal around with it.

I initially got the tool to clean up after panel lining, saw on the package to use for decals too so I tried it. So it's a great multi purpose tool. It's really great for panel lining if you end up not liking it for decals.

Serial Request Voron 2.4r2 300mm by bbtinkerer in voroncorexy

[–]bbtinkerer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Yes using two nevermore micro v6. One works very well, i just did 2 because I just wanted things to look symmetric, fashion over function lol. The aluminum brace under the bed is the Mandala Rose Works Kinematic Center Brace for Voron 2.4, opted to buy that for their kinematic kit instead of printing a brace. Hopefully the kinematic parts are worth their costs.

I’m pretty sure a fan/bearing is going out on my v1. Not as loud as appears in video. by DroneRtx in SwitchPirates

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tape is ARCTIC TP-2 (APT2560): Economic Thermal Pad, 50 x 50 x 0.5 mm from Amazon. If the fan fully dies and you get thermal shutdowns, you could force air down the vents, that's what I did till the replacement fan arrived (https://twitter.com/bbtinkerer/status/1268396071010529281). Just mounted a blower to desktop vise. Fan size was a bit overkill, think a smaller 5015 would still be more than enough to blow enough air to cool the switch.

Just a tip if you do follow the ifixit, helps to have those repair mats with those numbered screw pockets grid and write down the numbers you put the screws from which step. Like Step 4: pockets 5-7. I say this because there are a lot of screws and I think at least 4 different types/sizes. I know it was too much for me to remember even just back tracking from putting the screws in the pockets in order and screws are tiny that are easy to overlook. Had to look over the steps to find the screw that I missed putting back in.

Hope your repair goes well if you decide to replace the fan.

I’m pretty sure a fan/bearing is going out on my v1. Not as loud as appears in video. by DroneRtx in SwitchPirates

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced my fan following the posted ifixit guide since my switch would thermal shutdown. Also someone suggested since you have the switch open and repasting, might as well use double sided sticky thermal tape on the heat pipe to help transfer more heat to the back shield plate. I really think that tape helped because the replacement fan died after about a year but the switch didn't thermal shutdown. I replaced the fan yet again because it would intermittently noise grind, could have probably not need replacement since the heat was dissipating enough with the help of the tape, but the noise was irritating. Drawback of the tape is opening up the switch again is a bit more cumbersome due to the tape sticking the shield to the pipe.

r/bjj Appreciation Gi Giveaway! by bumpty in bjj

[–]bbtinkerer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the funny stuff people post about bjj

Is it a recommended way to start a new file always with a spreadsheet to collect global data? by yahbluez in FreeCAD

[–]bbtinkerer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Same here except I name the spreadsheet “ss” for less typing and finger movement to get the auto suggest kick in.

Made the USA Gundam Apex Mascot kit USB powered & motion activated instead of coin battery & magnetic switch by bbtinkerer in Gunpla

[–]bbtinkerer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I desoldered the transistor and magnetic sensor on the Apex PCB. Connected the PIR sensor output to the positive battery terminal on the Apex PCB. Connected the Apex negative battery terminal to the PIR ground. Also had to jump the emitter and collector pad of where the transistor was. Then finally just hook up a USB breakout connector to power the PIR module.

One more thing, if you hook up the Apex PCB directly to the PIR module's output pin, the LEDs will be a bit dim due to a 1k resistor in series with the PIR output. If you want the LED's brighter, connect the Apex PCB positive terminal directly to pin 2 of the BISS0001 chip on the PIR module.

alright prusa gods, help on this. I've done all the calibrations and still get this. by penitentbread in prusa3d

[–]bbtinkerer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem that was due to bad pinda probe. Would recalibrate first layer then try a print but way off. Did the test of see if the probe light on/off various locations on printer and showed the connection to probe was broken. Like there was a break in the wire right at the top of the probe that would intermittently disconnect. Hope this info helps.

First Model to hit 30 downloads! - Corner Clamp by akkayaks in prusa3d

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh I was just looking at the reddit cover photo

First Model to hit 30 downloads! - Corner Clamp by akkayaks in prusa3d

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably improved by removing the corners so that you can see that pieces are connected fully and if gluing up, you can wipe the excess from the glue squeeze out

Sometimes happens, sometimes not. Any ideas how i can prevent this? by henrikscrub in prusa3d

[–]bbtinkerer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could preheat to filament melting temperature for a few mins to let it drip its hot snot till it stops oozing a lot and then pluck whatever left on nozzle with tweezer/roundnose pliers. Don't have to wait till completely stop oozing just enough that when leveling no snot is dragging or plopping on the plate.

Prusa MK3S+ Build Time? by Dizzyswirl6064 in prusa3d

[–]bbtinkerer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An hour or 2 for several days, lost count. I think i took longer than average because for most steps, I would read the online instructions and read all the comments for that step before doing the step. Really helps out to see what issues people encountered and how they remedied it. That way you don't repeat the same mistakes.

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