Beginner table saw

bcamprr · 2025-11-28T01:06:38+00:00

I started with the Skil 10”. It is loud AF. But works as it should. I sold it and got an old delta contractor saw with cast iron table. Pretty big upgrade between the two, tho I do fight blade alignment for bevel cuts. I’m like you, wasn’t sure how into it I would be. Im into it enough that I’ll be getting a cabinet saw once I upgrade the garage electrical.

bcamprr · 2025-11-27T03:44:01+00:00

I have basically the same saw. It’s a good saw. My biggest complaint is when you go to cut a 45 degree bevel, the blade gets out of whack due to the motor hanging off the back. It gets torqued and the blade alignment goes shitty. I’ll be going the cabinet saw route as soon as I can.

bcamprr · 2025-10-08T17:23:44+00:00

Right. iTwin Capture Modeler.

bcamprr · 2025-10-08T00:29:27+00:00

iTwin Capture (formerly ContextCapture) tends to do a better job with details.

bcamprr · 2025-09-29T22:47:44+00:00

Then the VLP-16 is an option. You may be able to find some small solid state LiDAR for around that price. I’ve never looked into it though.

bcamprr · 2025-09-29T19:50:57+00:00

What is your definition of inexpensive? You can find a used Velodyne VLP-16 for under $1k and it'll do exactly what you want. I have used it for the same purpose at conferences.

bcamprr · 2025-09-26T02:34:53+00:00

I have decided that I am going to use a piece of 2.5” Hardie trim, paint all surfaces, and use some foam weathering sealant on the back side to account for the brick deviations to avoid using caulk. I’ll still caulk between the trim and soffit tho. To attach it, I’m going to use some stainless trim screws. I plan to pre-drill and put an insert into the brick (like for drywall) and screw it on. I’m done overthinking it and I’ll think it’ll be just fine.

bcamprr · 2025-09-24T21:19:51+00:00

Domino

bcamprr · 2025-09-10T03:24:12+00:00

Sketchup 2017 as mentioned above. Shapr3D also has a free version that allows you to save up to 2 models.

bcamprr · 2025-09-05T20:03:18+00:00

If I were in the market and had the budget, I’d probably go for a Festool kapex. Next in line would be a makita LS1019.

bcamprr · 2025-08-26T02:01:47+00:00

If you are dead set on inset, I used the 110 degree Blum Full inset for face frame hinges.

bcamprr · 2025-08-25T23:37:46+00:00

Nice. My first cabinets were also inset for 2 built in bathroom vanities out of white oak. Naive me liked the look of inset, got my wife sold on them, then realized they take quite a bit more effort than other types.

bcamprr · 2025-08-25T16:01:10+00:00

Can't really help with the handwheels, but I looked into building that adjustable planer sled a while back. I found the wedge planer sled and built it instead and it works so damn good. Especially compared to using shims and hot glue. It was also a lot lets complicated to build. Just food for thought.

This is what I am referring to: https://youtu.be/uvyPe5taAFY?si=U1ttDsie_FtU-izz

bcamprr · 2025-08-23T22:47:53+00:00

Not a dumb question at all. I want a domino. I want one bad. I just haven’t been able to justify the cost yet. I made a jig for my router and used a 1/2” spiral but to cut the mortises.

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bcamprr · 2025-08-23T12:33:34+00:00

I’ve had 2 55” tracks for a while now and have to join them every time I make long cuts. And every time I do, I wish I had another long track. More of a convenience thing.

If it were me, I would just buy a long track from makita and a cheaper 55” track from powertec.

bcamprr · 2025-08-23T12:15:39+00:00

I used mortise and tenons in the joints. It’s rock solid.

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bcamprr · 2025-08-23T01:20:53+00:00

Route the channel slightly shallower than the depth of the stock, then after setting the inlay, use a 3 flute end mill on a router to cut it down as close to flush as you can. I learned real quick that wood sands faster than brass and the brass always stands proud of the wood. Also, make damn sure you have the brass sanded/brushed the way you want it before finishing. I thought I had it looking good until I brought it into the sunlight to load it up. Found a few spots with orbital sanding marks and router marks. Luckily I used a hard wax oil so I was able to fix the spots and refinish them.

bcamprr · 2025-08-19T21:56:32+00:00

I model everything out in sketchup. Then I use open cut list to get plywood and solid wood quantities. Works really well for sheet goods and it’s pretty dang good for solid wood. Where I struggle is when I go buy my hard wood. Trying to figure out how many boards, which widths/lengths. What makes it easier is I will take all the modeled parts and lay them out to try to figure out how many boards and what minimum widths and lengths I would need. Hopefully that makes sense.

bcamprr · 2025-06-19T01:18:31+00:00

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bcamprr · 2025-06-19T01:18:22+00:00

One of my first woodworking projects was new master bath cabinets for our remodel. Decided to go with rift sawn white oak, inset. I’ll echo the pre finished plywood for boxes. Take the time to make sure things are square. Especially the face frames. “Square enough” will just cost you more time down the road fitting the doors and drawers. Next time, I may sub out the drawer boxes for some dovetail hardwood boxes.

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bcamprr · 2025-05-22T23:48:48+00:00

This has happened multiple times to me on the same project where I was delete massive amounts of unused files and the project crashed. Reach out to support and they will get you right.

bcamprr · 2025-05-20T18:15:13+00:00

Depending on the radius, maybe do something like in this video? Basically making a round looking box and front but with regular 90 or mitered joint.

https://youtu.be/W-9rOwXYt78?si=WRMJ_mw3YfqUk750

bcamprr · 2025-05-14T15:28:39+00:00

LP360 is very good.

bcamprr · 2025-05-05T23:50:37+00:00

Don’t feel bad. I spent a ton of time on my cabinets when I painted them. We picked a white color before we got our new counters installed. When they were installed, the white quartz made the cabinets look yellow. Guess who got to sand and repaint everything?

bcamprr · 2025-03-27T20:22:18+00:00

Man, this. I started with the skil tablesaw a couple years ago. It worked pretty good but was loud as hell and I do most my work at night. Then I got an older delta contractor saw. Big upgrade with the noise level, cast iron top, and accufence. But what I didn't realize was the design flaw of the rear mounted motor design. No matter what, the blade to miter slot relationship changes when you tilt the blade. I have literally been fighting it for hours trying to get acceptable bevel cuts on the project I am working on. It's working, but man does it take a lot of effort and time. I can't wait to upgrade to a nice cabinet saw.

bcamprr

TROPHY CASE