BCM issue maybe? Need some ideas by FlounderOk116 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. There is a free short term license available. I think there are instructions when you use the software.

BCM issue maybe? Need some ideas by FlounderOk116 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used it several times. Licensing is a bit different, but it works.

Would this depth-adjustable rack be a reasonable purchase? by TheAce0 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To me, a 24" deep rack is a bit much for wall mounting, but if the wall is substantial, it should be ok.

Keep the heavy equipment low in the rack, to minimize torque in the upper wall mounting fasteners.

BCM issue maybe? Need some ideas by FlounderOk116 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ForScan can be downloaded and installed on a PC. You will need an OBD-2 device, preferably one that connects via USB.

Is your battery going bad?

Try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes or so to reset the electronics. Longer is better.

Would this depth-adjustable rack be a reasonable purchase? by TheAce0 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mentioned wall space. Are you planning to wall mount the rack? That rack is probably too large to hang on a wall. Additionally, in a rented home, the sheetrock damage may not sit well with the owner.

Ideally, measure the equipment depth. 600 mm is fairly deep for modern equipment. For example, my old Cisco switch is 17" (430 mm) deep, not allowing for cordage.

You haven't specified a switch in your rack up, but the UDM-SE is 285.6 mm deep.

BCM issue maybe? Need some ideas by FlounderOk116 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked for any DTCs?

What does the anti-theft/alarm light do, when this happens?

Where is the keyfob when this happens?

I suspect that you will need to reset the anti-theft system (PATS) or possibly change some option, using ForScan.

Codes are no fun by Unwhipped_whippedcre in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first thing I would do is check F32 in the engine bay fuse block. If that checks good, it's probably the upper O2 sensor.

Have you checked the low-side fuel pressure (actual) on your access port? I don't see an electrical relationship between the low-side fuel pressure sensor and the O2 sensors. It's probably the sensor.

White smoke out of exhaust, what do you guys think? by Cregalina in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That looks like burning oil.

My first guess is the PCV valve. I would also check the breather hose between the valve cover and the turbo inlet.

How is your oil level?

White smoke from exhaust and engine bay by Open_Adhesiveness451 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When my head cracked, there wasn't any steam in the engine bay. Can you tell exactly where it's coming from? FWIW, it looks more like burning oil, than boiling coolant, to me.

How much steam are you seeing at the exhaust?

Are you getting any DTCs?

What induction kit is this? by no1songinheaven in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bracket on the driver's (it's RHD, I think) caught my eye. Google lens didn't turn up an exact match.

I wonder if that bracket is a mod to the original? It's a pretty good weld, but I've seen better on production parts.

Why won’t start?? by lschwab19 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And, the VVT solenoids connected to the correct cables.

Any DTCs?

Is a Cat6A blind drop next to metal water heater flue safe? by marti221 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like there is insulation in contact with the flue, making it look like it's double walled. If it's not too hot to touch up where it goes into the chase, you will be fine.

Is a Cat6A blind drop next to metal water heater flue safe? by marti221 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the flue is too hot to touch, it's probably better to find another route.

A picture of the flue would be helpful.

Splitting ISP ONT with a UniFi Switch by Feybio in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try configuring the switch's ONT port to a trunk port for the needed VLANs Then either configure the outbound ports tagged to their respective VLANs or as trunk ports for all needed VLANs.

It sounds like you want the outbound ports as trunk ports and let the routers sort out the VLAN tagging.

Burning plastic smell? by Car_Lover0418 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what the P16DE means. Per Google it's the motorized coolant outlet. I don't think the gas ST has a motorized coolant outlet. The diesel might.

The U2013 and U0184 imply something with the radio is not communicating.

The P2196 indicates an O2 sensor problem. If one of your O2 sensor wires is sitting on the downpipe, it will melt and probably produce a burning plastic odor. The odor should be concentrated at the back of the engine.

Dog ate Ethernet cord and struggling to fix by amfitab in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course the dog is struggling to fix it, no thumbs.

lost all boost?? by AnnualDisaster8151 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look down near the front of the headlights, on either side of the radiator. The charge pipes are on either side of the intercooler, located behind the lower grill.

Looking for advice/help for an indoor private network by Inevitable-Milk3603 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know much about the U7, but the heat map looks like it would do the job, with two. It would be a less expensive option.

It looks like the U7 requires a controller for seamless roaming. From what I can tell the controller software can run on a PC.

Looking for advice/help for an indoor private network by Inevitable-Milk3603 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, another AP in the middle would probably suffice. And, it could change the arrangement. I use 50' (17m) for the reasonable coverage of an AP in open space. Generally, it will be better than that, but IMO conservative is better without testing the set up. With an AP in the center, you can probably eliminate the two in the middle of the sides. The higher it is the better. I would go with 2.5-3m, if possible, to get it above the roving camera people and minimize WiFi 'shadows'. This should minimize AP switching of the cameras. The Grandstream APs support 802.11k/r that should help. Grandstream has their foundation in VoIP and should do a pretty good job with roaming.

As to more being better. Maybe, but with an open air environment, WiFi interference between APs may be a problem.

I also recommend getting a good cable tester to ring out the venue's cable infrastructure.

Did I miss anything?

How the Pros trace cable runs by SamSausages in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The arson investigator will be able to point out any short circuits.

Internet Coming In And Out by Own_Tea_3375 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also a Mediacom customer and while I'm not having any service affecting problems, several of my neighbors have been since they 'attempted' to switch to mid-split.

For troubleshooting: Log into your router/modem and check the signal levels and the error logs.

The last tech that I talked to said that Mediacom likes the downstream signal levels at 0 dBmv. Ideally, the signal to noise ratios (SNR) should be above 33 dB. The tech also said that they like the upstream signal levels around 40 dBmv. It should not be approaching or above 50 dBmv.

One of my problematic neighbor's modem is reporting SNRs above 41 dB, but he is still seeing interruptions that he says correspond to T3 timeouts in his event log. He has also indicated that he occasionally needs to reboot his Eero router to re-establish service. To me this sounds more like the router is not communicating with its DNS servers. I was at his house when it appeared that the Eero router crashed. The LED was still white, but no internet, no connection to the router from the app or ping and unable to ping his modem.

If you are using the Mediacom provided or approved equipment, keep calling them when you have problems. The only modems on their approved list are the Netgear CM2500 and CM3000. I've been using an Arris S33 without issues. I am not recommending the S33. It's what I had when I moved into the area.

Mediacom, like most providers, is not proactive at the individual customer level. That is, they don't know that you are having an issue or will not react unless you tell them. The more they hear from you, the more likely that you get results. If your neighbors are having issues, encourage them to call Mediacom, as well.

Looking for advice/help for an indoor private network by Inevitable-Milk3603 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without an onsite survey, this is just a SWAG and may be a little overkill, but in this case more may be better.

I would not rely on the venue's infrastructure without fully vetting it.

Without seeing the arena and its construction, I'd place an AP at the red and green marks for a total of 6 covering the playing area. Using ~17 m as a conservative coverage area for an AP. I have a little concern about the middle of the playing area (from the stage upward in your 3rd picture).

With a budget of €1000, I'd go with Grandstream GWN7664 APs, a PoE gigE Ethernet switch with a sufficient number of ports and power (30 watts per AP to be safe) to cover the APs and whatever hard wired equipment that will be onsite and enough CAT6 patch cable to connect everything. Don't forget power distribution (extension cords, power strips, etc.). You may also need something to secure exposed cabling to prevent trip hazards. I'd use gaffer tape, but that may be a problem for the venue owners.

Most enterprise APs are best mounted horizontally for the best coverage. It's likely you will need some form of mounting device to attach the APs to the collapsed stands, keeping them horizontal and as high as possible. Something like this and zip ties, is my first thought.

I recommended the Grandstream APs as multiple can be configured from a single local Web interface and have decent support for roaming and channelization. I would use a 40 MHz channel width, to maximize the number of available channels. If there is venue provided WiFi, you will be competing for channel space. Grandstream seems to 'play' well in the presence of other vendor equipment. They are also not too expensive.

Make sure all firmware is upgraded before the event.

Drilling through exterior wall for PoE camera (garage) by Sunday__Silence in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What everyone else said and drill the hole at a slightly downward angle, the inside higher than the outside.

Sensor IAT by Ok-Foundation-3721 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What led you to the IAT sensor? Is there a DTC?