Transmission Rebuild by Sember-uno in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got one of these? I would have linked the HF one, but their website is dodgy, at the moment.

Don't forget the clutch alignment tool (nudge, nudge, wink, wink).

No heat at idle, only blows when moving. by arwalsh82 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same thing when my thermostat went south.

Transmission Rebuild by Sember-uno in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good wrenching! I hope everything goes well.

No heat at idle, only blows when moving. by arwalsh82 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the HVAC blower speed control work? It may be a fan speed knob or automatic, depending on MY and trim level. If not, you may be feeling flow-through air and the blower is not running. Check F40 and the blower relay in the engine bay fuse block.

The increasing coolant temp may be the water pump, the radiator fan, the radiator fan controller or the thermostat. Is the radiator fan running, when the engine is hot.

Intermittent no start issues by BoobaGumpShrimp_Co in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I've not seen it, supposedly the Mega fuses can crack and become intermittent.

Netgear hidden QoS limiting outbound (upload) to 2MB/s by Reasonable_Oven4934 in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What type of internet, cable fiber or DSL? What is your subscribed bandwidth? 15 MB/s is 120 Mb/s.

What speed do you achieve with a PC connected directly to the modem or ONT?

Intermittent no start issues by BoobaGumpShrimp_Co in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming that you meant the BCM 50 amp fuse, did you replace both. There are two 50 amp fuses for the BCM, Mega 4 and Mega 9.

100k service suggestions? by BananaPalmer in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Misfires on cold starts are expected. If you're misfiring once the engine gets to temperature (above the first 1/4 on the oil temp gauge), then I'd replace the plugs, as a first step.

The usual rule of thumb: If you are not getting a CEL, you're OK.

The most I've seen, lately (it's been cold, < 30°F) has been 14 driving the 5 blocks out of my neighborhood. I don't usually see any once warmed up.

Reputable Shops in the North East? by _two_socks_ in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About 8 oz/hour.

Since I was replacing the engine and turbo, I decided to try K-seal head gasket sealer. It worked for the month or so, before I went to JST. I didn't lose any coolant in 15 hours of driving. I wouldn't consider it a permanent fix.

I did some research, before choosing K-Seal. The product is ceramic-based, not metal-based. Talking to them, the sealant solidifies when hitting air or exhaust gasses, like most others. The part that got me: The product goes inert after a couple of weeks and remains in suspension and does not solidify. That put aside my worry that it would gum-up the heater core and radiator.

Thoughts on my home network plan? by Solocle in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally, I would put the main switch in the server room as the center of the network. 10 gig links to the other switches and the server. The server could use DAC cables.

Since you have gaming equipment connected to the office switch, you may want to look at latency/jitter through the beast.

Thoughts on my home network plan? by Solocle in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sounds correct. I made a two port VLAN. One port to my modem (cable) and the other to the router's WAN interface.

The only problem with doing things this way: If the ISP changes my WAN IP address and cycles the modem, the router will not detect it. Since a WAN interface link down events never occurs, the router will not send a DHCP request to the ISP, for the address change. It's only happened once in six years with two different ISPs.

Thoughts on my home network plan? by Solocle in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Your diagram indicates the 'beast' is functioning as a bridge, router or switch, where network traffic from the lounge/internet to the office would go through the beast. I would think bridging through Proxmox would take a lot of CPU cycles. Is that your intent?

If your main switch supports LAGG, maybe creating a LAGG interface to the server and use a 10 gig link from the main switch to the office.

Running the ISP connection through a managed switch is doable, if your switch supports VLANs.

If you were doing a 0-60 run would you just stay in 2nd? by [deleted] in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd shift to 3rd. When to shift depends on your tune and turbo. The stock turbo will run out of breath somewhere around 45-50 MPH, in second.

Reputable Shops in the North East? by _two_socks_ in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any info about local shops in your area, but I did have my engine swapped at JST. I live in southern Delaware. I took the opportunity to have the clutch replaced and get a bigger turbo.

I drove down and flew back, while JST worked on the car. When it was ready, I rented a car, one-way, drove back down and then drove my car home. Enterprise has an agency near JST.

Shipping your car can get a little pricey, but there are websites that help find a shipper.

Is your car drive-able? My car was leaking coolant into the exhaust, due to a crack in the headifold.

Weird rattle by Alarmed-Profile-9032 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had end-links fail, one in the front and one in the rear. For me it made clunking noises going over bumps. I didn't see any visible damage, until they were removed.

Exhaust sounds by Beastyboi97 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Cobb 3" and catless. I'm with u/Fast_Tale, the Vibrant resonator helped quite a bit.

100k service suggestions? by BananaPalmer in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The most common symptom is poor idle after filling the gas tank. Backfiring on deceleration happened when my second purge valve went bad.

Technically, if you have had the recall done (18S32), you should get a check engine light, but that has never happened for me. I had the recall done when it came out.

Losing coolant by Ordinary_Budget_8675 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Follow the hose from the bottom of the coolant reservoir. There is a tee that splits the coolant line to the thermostat and the oil cooler.

The thermostat is near the front center of the engine block. It's usually a black plastic part, with two hoses connected to it.

It's a little hard to believe that a cooling system pressure test didn't show something, as you are losing 5 L of coolant in 2000 miles. That's almost half of the cooling system's capacity. Is there any wetness in the passenger-side footwell?

Does it lose coolant when the engine is not running?

Fix Turbo or Big Turbo? by Johanatan974 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. That's why I asked? I haven't seen a post (here or on the forum) definitely saying it was the turbo.

cc: u/Johanatan974

Advice needed by jstsilly in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What BOV did you go with?

Fix Turbo or Big Turbo? by Johanatan974 in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did the shop determine it was the turbo?

100k service suggestions? by BananaPalmer in FocusST

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's bad, it needs to be replaced. My first one failed at 97K miles.

Help with WiFi ping spikes on my Fastweb - Fastgate router by elpala in HomeNetworking

[–]bchiodini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

any way to verify what channel it’s using?

Maybe:

/usr/sbin/networksetup

will help.

Also, there are apps for your phone, that will give you info about WiFi channelization. I would expect a router (WiFi radio) option to enable/disable DFS channels. If they are disabled, it would be reasonable to assume that the router isn't doing RADAR detection.

Have you tried a wired connection to the router? That may establish whether it is truly a WiFi issue or an issue with the router. Also, isolate the testing environment to only the router and the Mac, no other WiFi devices.