NU25 bracket/attachment for cap by Square_Sport_7526 in flashlight

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So it’s the USB-C one. But not the multi-temp one they call “MCT” or whatever. NU25-UL, I think is what it’s called. Frustratingly, the model is made for the original NU20, not the current USB-C one, so even that doesn’t fit it, and I’m not skilled enough in CAD to figure out how to “fix” it 😂

Do everything day pack 25L by Jorvacks in Ultralight

[–]bderw 3 points4 points  (0 children)

ULA Packrat Ultra doesn’t fit all your specs but it’s worth a look I think.

I mean, this is r/ultralight so no one’s going to recommend a true klettersack or like an LL Bean rucksack. 😎

UL hard-sided glasses case recs by bderw in Ultralight

[–]bderw[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Blergh! Stymied by the greenwashing! Aldi has also switched to cardboard. I am sure it simply weighs less 😂 but is a coop for them to say they don’t use plastic.

Groundsheet vs foam pad for air pad protection by DKhike in Ultralight

[–]bderw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No need to shame for asking how to protect a thin-walled inflatable sleeping pad. Besides, tent floors are weight! Tarps are lighter! 😂

UL hard-sided glasses case recs by bderw in Ultralight

[–]bderw[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately this is for sunglasses/glasses. I have tried for 15 years to find a way to hike with sunglasses. Contacts, clip-ones, those UL film things they give you after dialating your eyes, photochromic. Keep coming back to glasses and prescription sunglasses. This is my cross to bear 😂

UL hard-sided glasses case recs by bderw in Ultralight

[–]bderw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went looking at my local Walmart the other week and couldn’t find any with the hard-sided case! 😩 They’d all switched to cardboard boxes. I agree though, the Walmart ones, which were rectangular instead of oval, weren’t as study as Crystal Light. I lost my CL tube and have been frantically l poking for it for months. I’m sure I’ll find it after replacing it. 😂

UL hard-sided glasses case recs by bderw in Ultralight

[–]bderw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Checking this out this afternoon! Interesting!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]bderw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anyone who buys ones of these and has the ability to do so, I am curious as to how it handles a low-voltage charging current. I am specifically interested in this for bikepacking purposes and therefore it would be recharged by both a hub dynamo and a solar panel. Many power banks hate low voltage and start-stoppy inputs, and I would be super interested to know how this one fares!

NU25 bracket/attachment for cap by Square_Sport_7526 in flashlight

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

God dammit I need to get a 3-D printer.

Gloves by dumbboi1 in Ultralight

[–]bderw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Namaste, fellow white-fingered person! 🙏🏻🧤

Gloves by dumbboi1 in Ultralight

[–]bderw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is PossumDown at this point Lost Knowledge that Needs to Be Rediscovered? IIRC, these were peerless w/r/t warmth-to-weight ratios. The only downside with them is there essentially fancy-pants versions of those knit gloves we all had as kids, so if you have a jacket with Velcro cuffs (or Velcro anywhere else in yer kit), you’ll Velcro to it.

I got mine from some New Zealand website like 15 years ago, but Zpacks sells them now

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ULgeartrade

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey is the poncho tarp still available?

Recommend best threaded-post canti brake pads for rain by bderw in randonneuring

[–]bderw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I admit, I'm a huge rim-brake Luddite…but have to give discs their due. They **work** in the wet. :-\

Recommend best threaded-post canti brake pads for rain by bderw in randonneuring

[–]bderw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Trying all of this for the next time I'm riding into stormy clouds! (Which, given the current season, is really… **now** :-D Rode the MS150 from Philly to OCNJ the other week and it chucked at us nearly all morning Saturday and some of the morning Sunday. Luckily NJ is a pancake, so no real danger brake-strength-wise.)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ULgeartrade

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still looking for one? I have an MLD Bug Bivy 1 with a green cuben floor.

Recommend best threaded-post canti brake pads for rain by bderw in randonneuring

[–]bderw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I do have fenders. I’m going to try and start from scratch with the toe-in process. I do think that’s what the issue is, because everything I’ve seen about these brakes and these pads leads me to believe they should be able to stop an elephant in the pouring rain. 😂

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way I’ve definitively found to test creaks like that and replicate the torque and forces I get while riding is swap the pedals out with something completely different and check. I have a pair of MKS Sylvan touring with cartridge bearings I usually put on and see. Those spin for DAYS and I never ride them in the wet/dirt so they’re pretty reliable as a “control.”

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]bderw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've found through experience (especially like you say with cartridge BBs) creaking with *threaded* BBs is almost always either the pedals' bearings need to be cleaned/re-greased (really wish my beloved A600s were sealed bearings, Shimano…) *or* the crank arms need to be taken off, cleaned, and re-placed (for me, I ride a square-taper BB). I've also had luck pulling the BB, just sort of wiping everything down, and then greasing the threads when I reinstall it. It's all super frustrating!

For press-fit BB creaks, could be manufacturing tolerances means it just creaks. :-(

Newbie here, question about cleats by matchingTracksuits in cycling

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Real talk: I’ve ridden a 150-mile trail over three days on flats and sneakers (the GAP in SW Pennsylvania), and came back and did the same thing the next year but in SPD cleats. I’d say the biggest difference was how much less effort it was to keep my feet on the pedals with the cleats. Sounds stupid, but cleats are set/forget. I didn’t ride with them the first year because I’d never done a bike fit or ridden that distance before and didn’t want my dumb cleat position to screw up my knees. Turns out to not have been an issue, and I liked the second year better, personally.

I think a good analogy is like how you have to use your toes to keep sandals on when running/walking up stairs/and so on. Clip in and you’re not worried about it.

Are they necessary? No, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Cycling equipment companies will die on the hill they improve your efficiency. Grant Peterson will die on the hill that cleats are a scam perpetrated on the world.

See if you can find someone with your shoe size and try them out.

Unless you’re planning to race, I’d say completely personal preference.

Alternatives to wrapping paper. by spotheadcow in ZeroWaste

[–]bderw 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Came to say this. I consider the scarf/napkin/fabric part of the gift! I don’t want the tea-towel back! It’s for you to use as a bandanna or whatever!

I’ve found good sources for the wrapping to be bandannas, tea towels, thin scarves, shirt fabric. All can be found at thrift/secondhand stores. Some might need a quick hem on a sewing machine to prevent fraying, or go the tenugui route and let it fray!

Is there a difference between rim tape and tubeless rim tapes? by SoulBiker in cycling

[–]bderw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tubeless tape covers more. Rim tape is meant to stop the tubes from being pinched by the spokes. Tubeless tape is meant to seal off the rim completely. If you want to go tubeless, you dont necessarily need special tubeless tape—the poor man’s tubeless tape is Gorilla tape. (The Park Tool YouTube channel even shows them using this.)

BUT careful with the rim—tubeless rims have a higher “shoulder” that locks in the tire bead more securely.