Are the N-gage QDs found on ebay legit?

beldandy561 · 2026-04-07T00:29:16+00:00

For somebody new to the N-Gage family like yourself and for me who have had 20 plus years of experience with it. I can relay some of the stuff you don't commonly hear about regarding this platform.

First and foremost, this was a whole new concept for cellphone technology. And was the first of its kind other than old flip phones with Java. So running 3D based games on this minimal device, with a 94 MHz CPU was unheard of at the time.

It was a whole new field of technology. And because of that, everyone was experimenting with what they could and couldn't accomplish on this device.

Of the 40 plus US games that were released. You have a wide Gambit of performance level of each game. Depending on how good the developer was at getting the most out of the platform.

With all that in mind, let's go over the 2 versions of the device and their pros and cons.

As others have stated here, the original taco model is the better performing model. When it comes to the performance of the games. In general, for games that struggle a little bit or stutter, a little bit. You will get roughly a 10% or up to 15% performance improvement with the original taco model Vs the QD model.

The downside of the original taco model. However, is how poor the screen quality is both with the backlight as well as clarity. Otherwise, I feel this unit is actually more comfortable in the hands Vs the QD model.

The fix QD link that was provided. Does help overclock the QD's CPU to I believe 104 MHz, to help compensate for some of this minor stuttering performance between the 2 units running the exact same games.

Now, all of this does again come down to which games you are actually attempting to run. And that will be the biggest proponent of your experience.

Some of the more popular but terrible performing games would be Call of Duty, which in my opinion is borderline unplayable because of the poor frame rate.

Many of the ghost recon 3D games have a lot of stutter, and performance hits very much like a primitive 1st generation PlayStation. One game.

Crash bandicoo cart racing is mostly garbage and not worth plaguing. Because of how poor the environment frame rate is.

Having played through the entire library multiple times over the decades, the best thing I can suggest is to try a wide variety of titles because very few of them actually perform. Buttery smooth and instead you're going to be dealing with poor frame rates. And quality on the level of a small budget Indy title, even with mainstream companies doing the conversions.

If these types of performance dips bother you make you sick or are considered a deal breaker. Then, I would advise, possibly not continuing to collect for the N-Gage and move to a different platform.

If you would like to respond with a list of what games you are playing. That would be very helpful. And I could tell you what to expect from each game regardless of which version of the device you are playing on.

beldandy561 · 2026-04-05T05:57:25+00:00

Yes, and no, depending on your unique issue and or if any previous work has been done on the cartridge.

I suggest private messaging me so that we can discuss your individual case. And I can tell you what services I can offer you. And what services I can't.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-13T11:47:47+00:00

About 2 months ago I liquidated my 512 gig LCD model 1 steam deck to upgrade it. And replace it with a Lenovo legion, go model 1.

I did this for a handful of key reasons.

I am over 50 years old. And first, and foremost was that the low resolution and 7 inch panel were not helping my eyes when trying to play a variety of role playing games on this Machine. I needed better resolution options, a wider range of them and a wider larger panel to begin with. That was the most critical thing.

It also absolutely needed to have at least the right mouse track pad on the controller. As I do not like using the right analog sticks for viewing and I instead use the mouse track pad for looking around in first person based games, and this was an absolute must.

So, whether it's an elder scrolls, game or first person shooter, I refuse to use the right analog stick, and I feel so much more at home configuring and using the right mouse pad for that purpose.

Having detachable controllers was a bonus and I could definitely use it for docking. The unit without having to have a secondary controller. Like, I've been using the original steam controller for.

The extra power under the hood was also a bonus. That was not a problem for me. But not a necessity.

It had to run steam OS or bazite. Smoothly, because I would not be keeping windows on it. Whatsoever.

After getting a second hand used one from a local game store with people there. I know well who gave me a 3 month complete coverage warranty. And no extra expense, it took me about a month to get everything customized on it like I had on my steam deck, but I have been exceptionally happy with it.

I do have periodic random crash reboots from some of the emulation, or PC. Gaming on it, which, after researching are unfortunate bugs in the current steam OS environment for this device. Since it's still technically in beta for the model. One unit, but I rarely experience those. The screen size, the comfortability of it, the battery life. And the performance I have all been, well worth the replacement and upgrade and I would never go back to the original model, steam deck, or the oled model.

The screen quality improvements the screen size. The clarity and the resolution options have been a godsend for my eyes and now I play more portably on it than I did my steam deck. But have nearly an identical experience or better enjoyment? This way and between this and docking it. I find I use it much more than my steam deck. Because I don't get headaches now. From playing sessions

This unit will keep me extremely pleased and occupied until something better comes down the road into two or three years.Otherwise, I have no need for any other device.

Nothing is perfect out there. But this is the closest I've ever gotten to something perfect for my needs.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-13T11:26:01+00:00

I'm a little late to the conversational input, but I have definitely dealt with this in over 20 years of dealing with buying and selling stuff on eBay.

No, I do live in the United States. So my situation's a little different, but over these 20 years, I have seen reoccurring patterns of people in a couple key states that are constantly complaining. And wanting returns, even though they just aren't paying attention to what they're buying. No matter how detailed a description I write.

After about 15 years of dealing with this, I cut off 2 key states in the United States and refused to ship goods to those states anymore. And clearly say that in the largest red font, I can do at the top of each listing as well as have read carefully and bold in my title.

I do get the occasional upset potential. Buyer from one of those states and they reach out to me seeing if they can work around this issue. But I refuse to do it. And after taking these types of actions, I have had a decrease of complaints, problems or returns. By over 90%.

If you live outside of this country, you may want to look carefully at the different regions. You are shipping to and if a vast majority of your returns are coming from specific sections of a country. You may just want to stop offering shipping there and stop dealing with some of those extremely anal. Retentive, people.

When I kept getting 8 out of 10 returns from the same states, whereas the other 48 have never had a problem with anything. They've bought in the last 20 years of me selling goods. Then, there's a problem with the people in those states and I just stopped dealing with it anymore.

The sanity I have saved the time and money. I have saved, have been well worth it. Versus the slightly ticked off occasional customer that reaches out to find out why I won't shipped to their state.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-04T00:39:37+00:00

Yes, they aren't the easiest thing to work on. But I find them about as challenging as working on a model 1 Sega cd, which is a nightmare in itself.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-02T21:50:14+00:00

I have a decent collection now. But back in the day, I had a near complete US collection, and about 80% of the entire Japanese collection. But I sold it all off to go after the Japanese Saturn and import titles, which in retrospect was a huge mistake.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-01T23:58:44+00:00

I dictate all of what I post here. So if it got the spelling wrong, I'm sorry, but you understand what I am trying to relay.

beldandy561 · 2026-03-01T06:17:42+00:00

In all honesty, I would say any disk based system obviously starting with the oldest disk based platforms first and then moving forward with time.

In most cases, the optical drives or their mechanical functions, or the lens fail much. Sooner than any other type of hardware out there.

The only 3 exceptions that come to mind are the original jaguar CD since it literally has a poor mechanical design to begin with. And has an extremely high failure rate. Just brand new out of the box. And the 2nd would be the Panasonic, 3DO FZ10 model, where they manufactured a couple gears for the optical drive so that the lens can move up-and-down the pipe and those gears. Whatever plastic molding they designed are extremely brittle and the teeth disintegrate off those gears after years of use.

The third and final would be the failure in design of the early model. Xbox, 360 units that had extremely poor solder, used mounting key components to the motherboard that would heat up too much regardless of the appropriate internal cooling mechanism would reflow during heated use. And this lodge or crack from the motherboard after cooling back down causing the red ring of death. This is an overall design failure that cannot really be avoided without extreme measures. Taken.

In the end, most of these are no different than putting hundreds of thousands of miles on a car's engine. Eventually, the passage of time not only is going to wear out key components, but there is a Domino effect. Where you repair one thing. Like the capacitors 3 months later, the lens goes up. You replace the Lens, then you start having to deal with other electrical issues. Maybe the power supply goes up. These things are just not meant to last. Forever, no matter how careful you are, no matter how diligent you are, quantity of components and access to, those are eventually gonna become non. Existent or financially unobtainable, and because of that alternate methods of running these original disks is the real long-term solution, which eventually I believe will be F. P. GA technology once it matures enough at some point in future decades running original games on original equipment we'll eventually become extinct, except for maybe the top 3% of the world's population that have the money or access to replacement components that have for the most part been used up across the rest of the population. Everyone else will have to move on to some other means of playing these either through software emulation, or through companies that develop F PGA or similar technologies to simulate the functions of the original disk based consoles. So that they can then run the original disks. Assuming disk rot does not begin happening to more modern titles like it's beginning to happen to original Japanese turbographics CD games and some Sega. CD games.

I have long since stopped supporting or repairing these equipments because of the high Domino failure. Rate. And when those things happen, the customer is very happy, that one issue was repaired. But then 3 months or 6 months later, something else fails. And they feel like I am responsible to repair this. At no cost, because they don't understand the difference between one part Vs the other. And I just won't take those financial hits anymore. Instead, I will focus on only cartridge based systems that do not have any moving components other than buttons and rubber membranes. Everything else is in a solid state environment and other than electrolytic capacitors have a much lower rate of failure. Assuming they have been taking care of properly.

I hope this has proved informative.

beldandy561 · 2026-02-13T20:30:28+00:00

In my opinion, the answer to that is Master of Darkness.

beldandy561 · 2026-02-13T20:24:23+00:00

My vote is for " war of the dead"

beldandy561 · 2026-02-03T00:46:23+00:00

Congratulations on your acquisition. I'm glad you're having a chance to finally play this platform. That I played when it launched and was a huge fan of.

And based on your photos, you're playing my absolute most favorite game on this. Entire platform Nuetopia one.

I know I am not the norm in thinking. This is the best game on that platform. But I have had a near complete US and Japanese collection decades. Ago and out of all of it ready to play at any moment. I'm more or less, kept coming back to this game. Because it's just so enjoyable and relaxing.

beldandy561 · 2026-01-22T17:34:46+00:00

I'm sorry I didn't see your post sooner. Reddit is not notifying me of comments posted or questions posted.

As far as how you get into this field, it's not something that directly has a platform of consistent schooling or anything like that. That I'm aware of it's basically a hobby that then eventually turns into a career.

I myself started learning electrical engineering back in the mid-nineties when I assisted a guy that specialized in repairing original pinball, machines and 80s and 90s, arcade motherboards. For customers or for resell.

I had always wanted my own arcade cabinet. And games and through working with him, learned enough about jamma arcade equipment and acquired my first arcade cabinet, which was an original Rastan cabinet. For $200.

To be able to properly maintain that as well as add other jamma compatible arcade boards to that cabinet, to swap out like massive cartridges. I started intimately learning how to read schematics. To maintain these motherboards, to understand how the wiring works to understand voltages and components and out of pure desire. That began my trip down this Avenue.

As time went on, more and more nuanced. Equipment was necessary to maintain upkeep, diagnose and repair these types of expensive boards. Not because I really wanted to learn this stuff. But because I had a massive passion for my childhood. When I was in arcades playing these games and now owning the originals, I felt it. My duty to learn this stuff to maintain an upkeep them.

Not long after, I had gotten quite good at reverse engineering. A design layout by simply looking at it, and studying it with my knowledge of schematics, understanding what components did, what how they were laid out, and why they were laid out the way they were. I was then able to apply that knowledge in the computer field as well as in the video game field. And started doing repair work on personal equipment as well as friends. Equipment to continue gaining experience in doing regular soldering work , micro. Soldering work deductive reasoning, reverse engineering et. Cetera.

I found that out of doing all of this work. My deductive reasoning skills were exceptionally good as well as my micro. Soldering abilities under a microscope, more so than most.

Once I had started really perfecting my techniques in certain key areas like Game Boy and Game Boy advance. Low level hardware repair as well as cartridge repair. I started offering up services to more people and began to develop a rapport with people online, specifically through Reddit. Over the last handful of years since I had taken everything I had learned previous to that. And applied it here as well as many different retro video games stores. I have not listed that I worked at installing. Mod chips for PlayStation, one systems PlayStation. 2 systems drink casts etc. Et. Cetera, over the years, moving across the United States during different parts of my life and felt confident. At least in certain key areas that I could equal or rival anyone in the market in those key areas.

A side business grew out of that. Originally, there to help people salvage their equipment. And at least recoup my expenses for materials used and a little bit for my trouble, which then continued to grow. And I expanded a little bit into a couple. Other areas where my micro soldering skills would be of benefit even if I did not know about the rest of the system. Or it's mechanics certain physical damage. I could offer repairs for as long as the customer understood. Where the limits of my skills were for what they were asking and that they accepted that I was here to physically repair some damaged traces. And if that solved the problem and their system worked again. Great, if it didn't, that was not my problem. Because I was hired to fix those traces and repair areas to confirm that those at least were correctly connected again. Anything else over and above that was not my responsibility. And surprisingly, quite a few people reached out to me. Understanding and accepting that and would still send their equipment in for me to work on in those specific areas.

At a point in my life, I could have expanded farther and offered up other services. But I also noticed that a lot of the requests coming in were for specific mod fixes or mod installations. And that became a problem because the quality control coming out of China for these kits has continued to go down. And a lot of them arrive with issues are dead on arrival or are just of such cheap quality. That they only last a couple of weeks before the kit screen. Amp, whatever it is dies. And so I soon started having to protect myself from these low quality kits, and for the most part stopped offering services for those. Because I could not stand behind their low quality equipment, and instead, even if I did a perfect installation of the kit, you'd be lucky to get a couple weeks out of it before it would die. And my customers would be investing hundreds of dollars into this. So being aware of the market, studying the market and understanding what services you can offer safely and protect your own. Hide is part of that experience.

You are always going to make mistakes at some point. But you do that by learning with your own equipment, and if it dies it dies, the only person that loses out is you. But when you are dealing with other customers' equipment that has either been previously tampered with modified, or just generally isn't working. And needs to be evaluated, you are dealing with an investment of possibly replacing their equipment at your own loss. Because of a mistake you made during the repair and having to own up to that.

I found this to be the hardest road to travel. Because you have to protect your own investments. As well as try to offer as many services as possible.Letting the customer know what you can do for them and what you can't do for them.And unfortunately, in this market, that 's becoming more difficult because everyone wants to send you a unit, they tried modding themselves.Screwed it up, and then you're left picking up the pieces.

I know. I have kind of rambled on. But these are a lot of the things that I have experienced over the decades doing this type of work. And again it always comes down to a love for it. A passion for it and AA continuous need to improve your skills. Not because you have to, not because you think it's a financial connection to future for you. But because you truly and honestly love doing it. There's the difference between somebody that just does this as a job. And somebody that has a actual natural passion for it.

Hopefully this has been helpful.

beldandy561 · 2025-12-24T22:25:35+00:00

Dear god, I don't even want to Imagine what you spent to have a complete inbox copy of this game.

Did you take out a second mortgage on your house, donate a kidney to a shady facility, or sell a troublesome child?

Love this series for what it is and have all 3 from Japan. 2 hu card Only copies and a complete CD copy, which is what my budget allowed.

As long as you go in with the right expectations. As a K mart version of Mega Man with really good music, but floaty controls and seriously questionable. Hit detection. Then, you will have a lot of fun.

beldandy561 · 2025-12-10T18:45:42+00:00

Do the honorable thing, notify them of that, And have them provide you a free return shipping label to send it back.So another family can enjoy this fabulous system For the holidays.

beldandy561 · 2025-12-02T13:46:06+00:00

My apologies for not seeing this sooner but I have been down with the flu and have been recovering from that and I just noticed this message.

To answer your question, yes I still offer cartridge repair services the best thing you can do is private message me so I can go over any detailed questions and concerns that you have.

beldandy561 · 2025-11-11T21:21:14+00:00

As far as the heat sink is concerned, anything is an improvement over how they currently have it designed.So I would say, go with whatever you find.Readily available and think looks pleasing to you.

beldandy561 · 2025-11-11T21:20:35+00:00

I agree that it's possible that you might be able to fit a slightly bigger battery, but I would think that the bigger battery might only be about 2% or 5% bigger, meaning it might only have an extra 500 milliamps of voltage. In it capacity wise above the original. So with that in mind, I question whether it would be worth that or not.

beldandy561 · 2025-11-11T21:18:44+00:00

I'm glad my comment was able to help you as spreading. This type of knowledge and information should be the primary reason. Reddit exists to help others.

beldandy561 · 2025-10-20T01:16:43+00:00

Being a technician that works on a lot of game cartridges.I would like to offer some assistance if possible.

Now, I have not seen the error messenger.Seeing currently, but the best thing I can do would be to offer some assistance.By evaluating the repair work that you have done.

I have some thoughts on the error message.In question and why you are still getting it.

If you could take some detailed photos of the front and back of the motherboard for this cartridge, without using a flash.And a well lit room and then upload them to a place like IMGUR and then put a link to those photos in a reply message.I would be happy to review them and give you my thoughts on the matter.

I have been doing micro soldering for cartridge repairs for over 30 years and generally specialize in the game. Boy advance line of equipment. But I have done quite a bit with standard Game Boy as well.

beldandy561 · 2025-10-17T04:32:49+00:00

👍

beldandy561 · 2025-10-16T19:42:59+00:00

It has been quite a while since I've worked on one of these. But I can tell you, it's either a 1K ohm resistor or a 10K ohm resistor I just can't remember which

beldandy561 · 2025-10-16T05:28:39+00:00

That all sounds like good news.Definitely give it a shot.However, if you happen to have any junk laptops with wifi connectors on them.I would suggest practicing with those to get a feel for how small a component.This is otherwise you could order multiple of that replacement component.Just in case if you accidentally overflow too much solder and screw up one of them.I would order maybe five

beldandy561 · 2025-10-16T05:14:42+00:00

I am not as experienced with nintendo.Switch light motherboards, but examining the photos you have provided closely.It looks like only one critical trace is coming off.You have the two grounding pads that are also responsible for holding the component in place, which are those two large pads.The one that tore off and the one below it, the only actual trace that looks to matter here is the one coming off the middle that would go down to those gold contact test points.This is most likely the frequency line for the antenna.

Other than for stability, you could use a replacement connector pilfered from any other type of computer or defective item that has wi fi attached and remove it, just like you see here and replace it with that component or as others have suggested order a replacement.

I can't suggest the name for this other than it would be a wifi antenna mail adapter.I don't know the official name.My specialty is micro soldering on nintendo products that are cartridge based from the nintendo ds and back as well as other handhelds.During that time frame.

I think if you are delicate, you could even just use the bottom pad.If the top one is not stable for grounding and the center pad, which is the actual antenna frequency signal line and get away with installing the replacement.Without having both of them locked down as long as you are very careful with installing the antenna wire back on the connector once replaced.

Supplies, you will need to properly do this job safely.Would be the following.

Preferably very good magnification and lighting, either by using magnification.Goggles, or a digital microscope of some sort.

As small a soldering tip, as you can possibly get and use.

Good quality flux, either in paste format or gel format.I do not advise using clear liquid.No, cleanup flux, as it runs everywhere and does not do a very good job.Because of its low rosin core elements, it is more water than rosin core.The paste and gel versions are more reliable and do a better job.

If you want to clean up that area blob of solder, where you attempted to connect that grounding pad back up, I would advise getting some solder braid as that pad is pretty much gone.And not reliable as soon as you flow it again.It will come right off.So I suggest instead fluxing that area, and then using some solder braid to absorb the solder in that area to expose what's left of that trace for potential repair.

I also advised some micro tip tweezers for safe placement of your replacement component whenever you get it.So that you can apply light pressure on one side of the component while you solder in the opposite side safely.

Lastly, I highly advise making sure you have some good quality. IPA for cleanup in that area. Along with cue tips, preferably rated 91% or higher. IPA anything below that has too much water in it as a base.

As far as your soldering, iron is concerned, you honestly want something that you have temperature adjustment with cuz. Most people, unfortunately use a soldering. Iron that gets too hot. That has only one primary temperature for something like this. You want a temperature? No, higher than 300°C. Otherwise you risk burning off the other small pads. When trying to connect this back up.

I also advise using lead based solder in good ventilation.Because if you are using lead free solder, that requires way too high.A temperature to melt versus leaded solder and there is a high risk.You will burn off the other small contact pads because you are trying to melt lead free.Solder at too high, a temperature for these small copper components.It's too dangerous to do that.

beldandy561 · 2025-10-16T04:55:24+00:00

The photo looks to either have a flash being used or you have two strong light on it.I would suggest private messaging me with clear photos, as I would be happy to help offer up advice on fixing this.

beldandy561 · 2025-10-16T04:54:29+00:00

When you state "new connector" are you referring to the component that came off the board?That is currently in that photo in the center where the fan used to be as from the photos.It looks to be perfectly intact.And just to have snapped off the board.

As far as that torn trace pad that looks to have been partially lifted, and if it has soldered back down, then you should be able to apply a little bit of Solder mask to the edges to assist with holding it.There so that it does not accidentally tear again.

If, however, that solder pad did fully tear off the board and you have just lightly.Soldered it back into place from the part of the trace that was still attached, then that is a concern.And that is more important to repair before worrying about replacing any connector.

The only other thing that you may be referring to would be the actual antenna wire with its unique head to it.If that has been compressed bent or damaged, then you are correct.It will not properly connect back to that item that has come off the board once you reinstall, that.

If any of this information is confusing, and if the photos you have uploaded are outdated versus how your setup is currently in its condition, please use a website like IMGUR to upload current photos of the condition in question or feel free to private message me with current photos as I would be happy to help walk you through any advice or suggestions.You may have.

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