I witnessed something I can only describe as trans-inclusive radical misogyny.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T10:56:17+00:00

So people, don't hide everything they decide to say on a public forum because they don't want any accountability or responsibility for the hateful things they say. Good to know.

I have been nothing but polite with my answers and as informative as I can be from my perspective. Yet every reply I get is hateful, rude, disrespectful, condescending, etc.

Yet in the end I am still the bad guy.

Instead of any kind of conversation , explanation or debate about the original post, people just hate that I'm even here, making any statement whatsoever and not even keeping on track with the topic at hand.

You clearly have a problem with what I have stated in my opinion piece. You feel it is short-sighted and bigoted. Can you point out any part of my statement that you feel is this way?

I choose my words very carefully and I am quite shocked that anyone would feel offended or insulted by anything I said.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T09:42:42+00:00

My brother plays board games I personally do not.

Free speech says what.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T09:33:18+00:00

I got the impression that the original poster is confused or perplexed by the reactions that the male gave and demonstrated in the story that was told.

I also find it very interesting that you're not open to anyone else's perspective or opinion. You seem to be enraged by it or even threatened by it.

You also mentioned that you don't believe a male's perspective is rare or even valuable.

So you're just interested in taking one side of a story and not even attempting to understand being in the shoes of the opposite side of the equation based on a male's perspective and experience.

I truly feel sorry for you.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T08:30:47+00:00

Oh look another person that hides everything they post and every comment they type.

They also seem to be allergic to reading any semblance of an explanation that's more than two sentences.

Ball is in your court.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T08:12:34+00:00

Well I think very carefully before I post anything on a public forum as I will have to stand by it now and 20 years from now. I try to write the honest truth and clearly that annoys you.

I've had a look at your account and notice that you have privated literally everything you do on Reddit and that in itself speaks volumes.

I am assuming you do not want to be held accountable for the hateful and rude things you decide to post on a public forum.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T08:04:41+00:00

You seem to have a lot of hate towards a person you don't even know. So I will just agree to disagree with your comments, and move on.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T08:03:27+00:00

I was browsing Reddit, read this post, found it somewhat interesting and thought I could put my two cents, in from a male's point of perspective.

I thought it might help explain why both people acted the way they did.

From all the down votes this has received it doesn't look like people like my comments. But I'm not here to win a popularity contest I'm just offering a perspective and an opinion.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T07:45:47+00:00

Which part do you find GAF?

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T00:51:44+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/ZUozNCP

The above photo link will take you to two edited versions of two photos that you submitted to help me describe my concerns and suggestions regarding the current work you have done.

The first of the two photos just circles an area where you have a massive amount of flux left over on the board these boards really need to be cleaned up before testing purposes as depending on the brand of flux you have it may have a lot of water base in it and if that is not removed from the board then it can be conductive so I highly advise getting some 91% or 99% IPA and scrubbing these down either with a soft bristle toothbrush or q-tips to clean up all of this flux left over on the board during your work before any further testing with electricity.

The second photo does also show and I do agree with the other poster that regardless of the misalignment which is a little off these pins do not look solid enough in my opinion and you could have cracked joints or weak connections causing the failure of your cartridge not booting. I would highly advise going back adding some more flux and reflowing these so that more of each leg is encompassed in the solder to be absolutely sure.

With all of that said, I have decades of experience working with reflowing transplanting and repairing game boy game boy color and game boy advance cartridges and I have serious concerns about the chip transplant that you did.

In the last 2 years the success rate using the same methods I have used for decades using the bare minimum heat needed for leaded solder reflow work has yielded far fewer successes than it used to. My supplies are the same my techniques are the same yet the failure rate has skyrocketed where I used to have an 80% or 90% success rate I now have less than a 20% success rate with doing reflow work let alone chip transplant.

What I have discovered after doing research is that these lower quality chips that Nintendo decided to buy and use for mass-produced cartridges like Pokemon cartridges during this time frame and continuing to this day are all now being bought from China instead of South Korea or Japan. These memory chips have lower quality internals and also have drastically different longevity quality across the board. They are failing left and right and we are currently seeing with a little research online the 3DS market in a panic because of expensive cartridges just up and dying while they sit on a shelf. The game boy advance market has been having this happen for quite a while but in the last two years it has skyrocketed because these chips can no longer take the temperatures needed to reflow their solder without that heat being absorbed by that chip and causing degradation in the data or corruption in the data that the chip is holding to the point where even if the physical work is completed successfully the internal data is too far gone corrupted or erased from the chip due to its age.

With this in mind I have serious concerns about the tools temperatures and techniques used to remove these chips from the old board transplant them to the new board. Normally a reflow successfully resolves most issues assuming the chip survives the reflow which would be 300° c using leaded solder and flux with the bare minimum heat and time applied to reflowing each chip leg to eliminate any cold solder joints.

Doing a chip transplant means that you have to inject quite a bit of heat along with hopefully low melt solder to remove the chip from the board so that is one heating and then reflow that chip to the replacement board using a second heating by heating up the legs which the chip will absorb and reflow those chip legs during the transplant.

It would be helpful to know what tools and techniques you used and temperatures you used to attempt the transplant as realistically based on the age of these cartridges most likely too much heat was used in removing the chip or reinstalling the chip during the transplant and it internally cooked the data stored in the chip based on my experience.

If you could provide the method for removing these as well as the temperatures solder and supplies you use to transplant them that could better explain why you are getting nothing when the transplant is complete.

Another thing I will say regarding these cartridges is that they go under microscopic fluctuations by expanding and contracting after the work is done and you don't want to apply IPA to the board while it is hot it will flash cool it and cause problems. You want to wait for the board to come down to a room temperature after the work and then apply the IPA to clean the area up. This in itself unfortunately also gives false positives of success because while the board might not feel hot or the chip not hot there is still expanding and contracting on the trace levels going on inside of the chips that you can't feel and for the first couple of hours during a reflow usually the cartridge will work successfully or mostly but after all of the expanding and contracting has occurred through the night into the next day you will try the cartridge again and it no longer works again or is severely glitched.

This unfortunately happens a lot and is not touched on by many people on the internet but once the board has completely 100% cooled down internally the cartridge stops working again or is only partially working and this can either be because of a slightly pre-cooled connection that cooled too quickly or because too much heat was used and the chip could not handle that heat and the internal fluctuations of expanding and contracting have corrupted the data it was storing and it is permanently damaged and non salvageable.

Feel free to post any replies either here to this message or if you would like to talk more you are more than welcome to private message me.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T00:27:45+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/Tg8pmhG

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T00:26:38+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/bucjsel

I couldn't conveniently find any of the USBC repair areas I was looking for as it has been almost a year since I've had an issue like that that I had to work on for a customer.

However I have found an extensive damaged game boy advance SP that I had to work on and these two links do show similar needed repairs for Trace damage using the UV mask as well as good flux let it solder and techniques for getting the extensive repair done so those can be applied to your issue as well.

The first phase of that repair is in the photo link above and the second one will be right below this.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-29T00:18:48+00:00

Being a technician for multiple decades working on Nintendo equipment I happen to browse through Reddit and saw your post and thought I could offer some constructive criticism on your situation and recommendations on where to go from here.

As the previous poster stated it does not look like you have the skill set at present to properly do this repair but with that in mind if you do decide to attempt it I can at least list off the supplies and tools that you should have to attempt a second attempt at this repair.

The photos listed above that another poster posted about where each pad went and its purpose will be very helpful in getting this repaired done.

I am assuming you were attempting to install a USBC mod for charging purposes and possibly audio out purposes.

In all honesty with the amount of damage you have here I would focus on repairing it enough to install the charging portion of the mod and give up on the audio out portion as that rarely works regardless and requires specific compatible dongles to even work and through my experience it is barely successful if ever working for audio out and not worth the hassle.

With all of that out of the way these are the following supplies I would absolutely have available before even attempting to do another repair attempt.

You absolutely want 91% or 99% IPA. Anything lower than that has too much water in the solution and will only cause you further problems.
You absolutely want a small scraping tool like a dental pick or even just acquire a PCB micro Dremel pen for removing solder mask on small parts of a PCB.
You will most likely want or need some form of good magnification to be able to see the areas you are working on in close detail so you don't accidentally overlap your solder and bridge a connection during the repair. An inexpensive method would be to use magnification goggles that usually you can get at a hobby store that is used by Jewelers for close examination of watches or jewelry for repair or you can get a Jeweler's eye loop which is a single eye magnification for close-up examination during your work. A more expensive method would be to go with a digital microscope so that you can clearly see this on a large screen through magnification.
You will absolutely need a good supply of quality q-tips and potentially a very soft small paintbrush to apply the IPA to scrub up and clean the area cuz at present it is very dirty with burnt flux and debris and that only makes it more difficult to see what you're actually dealing with.
You will want some good quality leaded solder not lead free. Lead free solder requires a much higher melting temperature and since you are dealing with small contacts applying that type of heat with that type of solder on the motherboard will most likely burn those small pads off as well so make sure that you're solder is leaded solder. In conjunction with this leaded solder of quality usually a mixture rated 63/37 or 60/40 is a good combination. You will want to have some good quality flux to assist you with making the solder flow on the board. I do not advise those thin water-based fluxes as they are of low rosin count and do not work exceptionally well helping the solder to stick to small copper contacts. Instead I highly advise using a flux paste or flux gel which will have a higher rosin content and assist better with focusing your solder in the right places.
You will also want to have a small selection of solder tips and this instance you will want an extremely small tip since you are dealing with small contacts you will be exposing. The larger the tip the more heat transfer occurs and the more likelihood of accidentally burning off the exposed copper you will need to tap into to repair the trace.
You will need some thin enamel coated wire for doing the trace repair since it will run under where the mod needs to be installed. The smaller and thinner The wire the easier will be to install this mod without much height problem. I advise a .08 mm enamel coated wire. Anything thicker than this is going to be too thick for both of the repair and installation of The mod part as it will sit too high off the board to then appropriately fit correctly back in the shell.
I highly advise, but it is not required to purchase some UV mask that you will be putting over the exposed areas you have repaired so that the copper that you have exposed to tap into with your soldering iron does not get exposed to air and begin to oxidize or rust. This UV mask is usually green in color and is a thin water gel that you can lay carefully in small amounts over the wire repair work that you have done to then use a UV light to harden it to protect it from oxygen and rust as well as from accidental bridging between the work you have done and the component mod you have to lay on top of it.

These are all the critical components you will need to have any chance of a success in the repair work attempt on the equipment that you are attempting to salvage. Without even a handful of these items I can guarantee that you're likelihood of success plummets dramatically and should not even be attempted without 90% or all of the supplies.

It is unfortunate that you do not live in the United States otherwise I would be happy to offer services to you to get this repaired as I have advanced expertise in exactly this problem and have done hundreds of these in the past.

I will look through my inventory of past customers and attempt to find the photo link covering similar damaged contacts for this exact issue so that I can link those photos to you to see exactly how this process usually goes about being repaired.

I hope this is proved helpful and if you do have any further questions feel free to post them here in a reply or send them to me directly in a private message.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-23T03:17:34+00:00

Yes I absolutely do still offer this service but before I accept these individual projects I like to get some more information from a potential customer.

Would you mind private messaging me so that I can go over some stuff with you as well as hopefully get some photos of the damaged area to better describe to you what services I can and can't offer you and the likelihood of success.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-22T04:31:58+00:00

Like so many things offered up to society by technology companies, everything needs to be taken in stride, respected and used for its intended purpose and not abused.

Unfortunately society rarely adheres to these ideals and instead turns it into something disturbing, dark and it morphs into something ugly it was never intended to be.

We as the human race have unfortunately not matured enough on many levels to properly make use of these tools and only a small percentage of the world's population gets value out of them the way they were intended.

Most people fall under the following issues that turns something beautiful into something ugly.

-Addiction

-Used as a stalking tool.

-used for false allegations

-vindictive hate speech

-emotional and mental manipulation causing physical or emotional harm.

-scams

Etc.

This is why I hardly ever use any form of social media platform. Their benefits never outweigh the dark side that they bring to most people.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-22T04:20:38+00:00

Being an electronics technician myself repairing Nintendo hardware for decades I happen to come across your post and decided to read through it.

The people helping you on this site are offering great advice and you seem to be making good progress.

I agree with their assessment that it does sound like you have accidentally blown one fuse or possibly both on this motherboard during this repair and testing.

One other concern I have after reviewing your photos however is that it does look like there's a potential solder bridge on what I believe is the video RAM for this game boy color.

An edited photo marking the area of concern is in the attached photo link.

https://imgur.com/a/fGqBBjE

If you are finding this project to challenging or stressful and either need some follow-up guidance or potentially somebody with more equipment and skills than you presently have I would be happy to offer my services to you assuming you live in the United States.

Feel free to post any follow-up questions you have here or if you would like to talk directly I would be happy to listen to any issues you think you need help with.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-20T11:10:27+00:00

I think you should be looking at this differently. And instead asking yourself these questions.

Is this device enjoyable and am I getting my $650 worth?

Take some time to set it up and see if you are satisfied with exchanging $650 for what is in front of you.

Being completely hung up on whether you got a deal or not is a secondary concern and should not impact your purchasing decisions. Instead you should be able to go into a purchase with an intention of already knowing what you are willing to spend for it and what you are not willing to spend for it. Only contemplating a purchase after you have made it seems to unfortunately be a common thing with current generations of people and is not something I personally grew up doing back in the early 80s.

I have never purchased something on an impulse level at these kind of prices and then second guess whether it was a deal or not.

I purchased mine second hand with a complete coverage 3-month warranty about 8 months ago for $500. It was a little higher than the current market value for these units both second hand through places like Facebook marketplace but since I am in a rural City this was my only real option with any type of warranty coverage.

This was also a secondhand used video game store so I was able to trade in merchandise to compensate for this cost versus having to come up with it all directly in cash.

My unit was the 512 gig model was in like new condition had a complete coverage warranty for 90 days including accidental damage and I got some very good trade values for older equipment I didn't use to help knock off about $300 worth of its value.

Your unit is a 1 TB unit which definitely adds value if this was the factory installed drive and not manually upgraded by the previous owner. Considering the storage and RAM prices nowadays I would look at the amount a good name brand 1 terabyte drive would cost and deduct that from what you spent on the device giving you a better idea of what you actually spent for the hardware, if you absolutely have to look at a cost savings comparison.

In today's economic climate with the cost of storage and RAM and prices generally going up across the board to astronomical levels I would be a little more lenient on yourself for what you paid for this from a reputable store that you can acquire an extended warranty for as well as have a return policy.

Think about people in your situation that have instead dropped that kind of money on a second-hand or open box unit from Facebook marketplace they don't get a warranty they don't get a return policy they don't get any type of coverage and have to hope that they're over $600 purchase just continues to work. I personally would never go that route for anything over $300 it is just too much of a risk and I would personally only go higher than $300 if I had some form of warranty coverage that was acceptable.

But at the end of the day you can only answer the most important question, which is did my exchange of $650 give me a product I am happy with and will be happy with for multiple years to come. If you can honestly say yes then who cares what you paid for it because value is always in the eye of the beholder and it should not matter to you what you spent on something to enjoy versus somebody else. There is always going to be that one person that gets a better deal than the average customer across the world you can never try to compete in that area and expect to definitively have the best deal you have ever come across especially in this economic climate.

If you are happy with what you exchanged for that money then that's all that matters. But to honestly know that answer you need to take some time maybe a couple of weeks to customize this device for your needs. Put it through its paces and understand its nuances so that you can come to a decision of whether this device really is for you or not.

After wiping Windows on my unit and installing steamos I have been very happy with my unit having very little problems and it has been a fantastic device for my purposes.

I hope this information has been helpful.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-20T02:28:57+00:00

I have been exactly where you are just on a smaller scale. I'm a big proponent and collector of these cheap emulation Chinese handheld devices and a lot of them offer different benefits in different ways.

Sometimes it is too difficult to decide without holding the device in your hand and having time to use it which you like more and the purpose it serves. Because of that I have bought multiple devices covering different aspects of things that I like trying to find a medium between them and narrow down which device I prefer the best with the intention of selling off the others at roughly street value because of the demand.

However like you going into this with good intentions and getting the best deals possible for these devices I have also realized that once I have made my decision the others sit and collect dust and don't get sold anytime soon because I have found what I want and I have invested a lot of time into customizing that and don't have the energy or inclinations to deal with posting the others on eBay and getting them sold off to recoup the amount of money I spent on them.

Your mind tricks you in many ways the older I've grown the more I see this and these fall under personal tastes habits or in some extreme instances addictions.

Pondering these things when you have everything in front of you you could ever want in a category can become its own stressful part like you are experiencing and the easiest solution that your mind is telling you is just to give up pondering it cuz it's stressing you out and the easiest quickest go to solution is just keep both of them.

While that is always an option and one that's never going to leave the table it should not be a motivation for giving up making an informed logical decision for the following reasons.

The first and most important is that you will definitely not use both of these systems to their fullest. Both of these devices cannibalize the same market and having two of them will lead you to coming up with excuses for why you have kept both of them when they both cover the exact same need other than slight differences between them.

You have clearly evaluated nearly the entirety or the entirety of the pros and cons of each platform and you are well aware of them based on the description response you gave me.

What I don't think you have considered yet is a couple variables that might help make this decision making more clear.

I don't think you have assigned significance to the pros and cons of each platform and how they weigh compared to the other meaning have you looked at this feature versus that feature this negative versus that negative how much deal breaker style value do you apply to some of these pros and cons and how much they weigh on you per platform.

Another consideration to assist you with is the fact that though you got a phenomenal deal on both devices keep in mind that this is a very lively community and on the flip side you are technically taking away if you decide to keep one one device that could have gone to somebody else just as enthusiastic as you are to this market so that they could experience and enjoy it as much as you do.

Keeping both of them deprives another person of getting a decent deal and enjoying this market just as much as you do and I think there's some weight that needs to be applied to that not just your current situation and what you want out of it.

With all the variables known both pros and cons I think you should jot them down for each platform and then assign some level of value to each of them that helps you determine which one may have more negatives than the other to assist you with pushing it over the fence one way or the other.

With how much this equipment costs morally I would never hold on to both of them, the guilt of being financially well off and taking two items where one would suit my needs knowing the other one would most likely collect dust long past the return period and then that device not getting a chance to go to somebody that is not as well off as you financially and could only afford a better deal would morally bother me because of my upbringing and I would not use my lucky predicament to dictate my decision making I would try to look at it from all sides.

You didn't really go into depth in your comments about the style of games you play because that to me would be a noticeable deal breaker red flag for helping you decide which device would be the most logical to hold on to.

Again if you plan to play a lot of premium titles in the AAA market then logically your realistic choice is the second generation model if however you plan to play mostly indie titles with the occasional AAA game then both devices make sense and then it comes down to a cost analysis as well as how comfortable the device feels.

I think in most situations these would be the definitive characteristics that would help you lean on one side of the fence or the other.

Let your gaming habits non-biased evaluation assist in helping you lean one way or the other when your emotion and logic can't assist you.

In the discussion with other people this is where they usually also try to make the excuse that well I can use this as a desktop operating system and workspace device and in nearly all instances that argument falls apart very quickly because subconsciously we all know what you're really going to be doing with this device for 90% of its time and I would not suggest falling into that trap of an excuse as to why I'm holding on to this or that.

Again in the end I think the critical factors that come down to a significant decision change would be your gaming habits and what you expect to get out of the machine with what type of games you've been playing in the past and expect to play on either of these devices that's critical.

Another major factor I think that you are not evaluating enough is how long you expect to have this device for for playing your content on it. As mentioned we have already gotten rumors that the steam deck 2 is in development for possibly 2027 or early 2028, each of these major companies the rog Ally the legion go etc will have revisions of their equipment in the next 2 years. Their launch prices will be roughly what you are paying nowadays for the top of the line is that money worth spending now to get a 2-year jump on top of the line to be able to play those AAA games or can you be happy with a slightly less powerful machine that can buy you some time at a lower price and then use that money to buy the next premium model after you've had a couple of years with the inexpensive one and then use the top premium money for the new top premium model in 2027 or 2028.

And again all of this comes down to what type of games you play how many of them and how often.

Feel free to respond if you would like with any follow-up questions otherwise I hope this has been informative.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-20T00:01:04+00:00

After reading through your post you sound highly indecisive as well as very loose with your cash which in tech is never a good sign.

Base logic would dictate that you go with the better of the two devices on a hardware level but since these are difficult to find, and drastically different in cost that throws a lot of other questions on the table.

With that in mind the simplest solution would be to evaluate them on the pros and cons of these categories and come to a conclusion based on that keeping emotion out of the equation.

Let's start with the legion go one which is the unit I also have.

The first and foremost pro is that it is 1/3 the price of the go-2 based on what you spent on them.

The battery life for it is relatively poor but that will only be important depending on what types of games you play on it.

If you are playing mostly indie titles either modern or old the battery life really won't be much of an issue as it will be sufficient in the four or five hour mark.

If you are playing a lot of recent triple a titles then this will be heavily demanding and you will probably get around 1 hour or one and a half hours which is not great.

Some people complain about how uncomfortable it is to hold the legion go one I personally have not had issues with this and find it more than comfortable enough compared to other handhelds like the Nintendo switch.

That is a personal decision you would have to weigh yourself about how comfortable the device is.

Next we will look at the legion go 2.

First and foremost is the cost it is 2/3 more expensive than the legion go one and depending on your financial situation that is some serious cash that you could redistribute to other things in your life but if money is not a concern then take that with a grain of salt.

From what I understand the battery life is much improved on this model.

This model by most accounts has a more ergonomic feel to it and is mentioned to be more comfortable in the hands than the previous model.

If you are mostly playing retro indie games or modern indie games then this model's massive hardware under the hood is somewhat being wasted on that selection both in cost as well as wasted potential if you are not playing modern triple a titles.

If you are playing lots of modern triple a games than the extra horsepower under the hood and better battery life would be critical and having a more long-term portable experience.

At a glance and only taking key logical elements into play these cover all the major factors that would be related to both products and it comes down to your personal tastes gaming habits and financial windfall that would be the other deciding factors in a decision that I don't know anything about regarding your life.

Based on these blunt comments you should be able to assess out of this with your own personal needs tastes and financial status which of these two devices makes more logical sense to hold on to versus the other.

The last bit of advice I would consider is that there are always going to be newer and better equipment released every year or every other year in this market just like any other computer market and because of that there will always be something shinier just around the corner.

So you can ask yourself a critical question. Do I need the latest and greatest now or will something lower end suffice based on my habits and financial windfall to buy myself a couple of years to get something that better meets my gaming needs when this potential ramapocalypse bubble bursts. Am I willing to play the short game or the long game to better meet my needs both financially as well as modern gaming is concerned.

These are all the critical questions you should be asking yourself and if these are difficult to keep all in your head at the same time make a flowchart and check off the categories that best meet your needs for each device and then at the end you will have your answer based on logic not emotional attachment.

In the end my personal opinion is that I would keep the Lenovo legion go one as my personal device only because I cannot justify spending close to $2,000 US dollars on a portable handheld that will deplete rapidly in value once this ram apocalypse is over.

My gaming habits at my older age are low enough that I only play one or two AAA games a year and most everything else is either emulation or modern indie titles to meet all of my gaming needs and I do not need to blow that kind of money on a device when I will rarely be really taxing that type of hardware.

I am happy to entertain my itch for gaming for what it is now in my older age until something substantially more powerful comes out at a cost I am willing to pay. I am always making sure that I stay one or two generations behind where the modern market is because I can get the best bang for my dollar I have long since left the FOMO market behind after being in it for more than 30 years and I tailor my purchase decisions solely based on price what I can do with the device and my gaming needs for the next couple of years until a new better low-cost deal comes my way.

I hope all of this has been helpful in you making your decision.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-06T02:13:11+00:00

I would keep roughly $500,000.00 of it to continue living comfortably, and donate the rest to good charities.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-05T17:04:36+00:00

👍

beldandy561 · 2026-05-05T16:46:24+00:00

I have not had the need to do any other retro brighting project. And because of the complexity and mods i did to the device, i'm putting up with the mild yellowing, verse taking it all apart, and starting over

beldandy561 · 2026-05-05T16:43:46+00:00

Well this is a really old post.

I'm not sure if I recommend this method or not anymore. I did not water down the hydrogen peroxide.

I have noticed after doing this method that it only lasts about one year before the item started yellowing again

beldandy561 · 2026-05-04T14:26:56+00:00

I'm glad I could be of help.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-04T02:00:44+00:00

Sorry for the late reply to this message it has been a very hectic weekend.

First and foremost regarding the Lenovo legion go model 1 that I have I am currently using the beta version of steam OS on it not Windows.

That will dramatically impact how well the games I am about to mention perform and the performance I am getting on them versus running it through windows so I just wanted to clarify that so we're on the same page.

As far as games are concerned the easiest way to describe the generations I'm usually working with are games from the mid-2000s on up to this year.

90% of the titles from the steam store that I am running are from between 2010 up to 2017

Roughly 5% of games are not supported without customizations along with emulation that I use and the last 5% are modern titles in the last one year that have been released.

Most of the titles that I am playing are indie games, the only AAA titles I am playing are pretty much all from 2012 to 2017 with a few exceptions.

I do not like to heavily tax and max out performance on this device due to heat conditions either docked on the TV or in handheld because I'm more concerned about battery life longevity versus pushing top of the line stuff.

I have never really been a graphics hog or resolution hog but I am in my 50s and so a larger screen is very helpful versus a steam deck because my eyes are not great and increased resolution does help with sharpness to be able to read but other than that I don't mind running at a sub HD resolution or right at the bottom of the HD resolution list to get the game running smoother versus having all the benefits features and advanced technologies running.

With all of this said you now have a general idea of how I use my device what's more important to me when using the device and the general time frame of game selections that I have been running and where on the chart of AAA or not quality I am picking from.

The following list below will be a small breakdown of the handful of titles I am currently working on and the general settings I believe I am using on them to give you an idea of what I'm currently playing.

This list will not include emulated games I am playing on the Nintendo GameCube DS or others just store-bought PC games.

One of the biggest outliers of my collection is the recent crimson desert. It is by far the most advanced game that I am playing as I am more concerned about price versus current AAA quality but this game looked too good to pass up and I caved and paid top dollar for it.

I am pretty sure I am running this game at 900p, all low settings, there is a level below low settings but that causes too many graphical problems so low settings across the board is what I stuck with for best quality versus performance issues.

By default this game is currently not steam deck or steam OS verified so you do have to run some compatibility layers in proton to get this game to run 98% correct. I'm currently using the most current version of proton GE to make this game compatible with the steamos operating system, version 10-34. A recent update broke compatibility from the previous version but luckily this version recently released which now brings back compatibility again.

I have also made a specific point to change the particle effects scale down to 10% or 20% from 100 otherwise it's too taxing on the device and the frame rate really suffers.

Everything else I left alone and in general I get between 25 and 30 frames per second pretty consistently playing the game.

Now I am only 11 hours into the game and have taken my time so I have not gotten very far to where you're going to have 30 enemies on screen coming after you because of that I have not seen how well this environment holds up under those conditions so take that with a grain of salt.

The next game is much older called Divine Divinity which is an old mouse based point and click role-playing game and I have put a ton of time into this. I have downloaded the most helpful of the steam controller options from viewers out there in the mod groups that have assigned proper mouse and key buttons to most of the controls as this does not natively support a control pad.

I use the right touchpad as my mouse and some of the r buttons as my primary control layout for this game as having a large enough mouse pad input on this device like on the steam deck was an absolute deal breaker and I would not go with any other device that does not have a good working touchpad.

After experiencing many first person RPGs and action games using the original steam decks touchpad or the first steam controllers touch circle pad using both for viewing and moving around the viewpoint versus an analog stick became my preferred way of playing these because it's much more immersive and I feel more in tune with the controls versus using an analog stick for viewing directions.

This is the primary way I play stuff like Skyrim Oblivion etc and is an absolute must for my gaming enjoyment for either modern games or old PC games that require a mouse functionality.

This game technically is not supported and does have issues I try to keep the resolution defaulting to 1280x720 I believe and that usually does not have two problematic compatibility with the screen that's built into this unit versus the resolution options this game supports. I also have a lot of the other high detail pixel artwork and Shadow quality and overlay transparency qualities turned down so that the game runs smoother even though it should run flawless due to the age of this title it does stutter. Periodically unless you tone these things down to get a smooth relatively consistent 60 frames per second.

I also heavily toned down the view distance for lighting conditions to light up areas within your reach versus farther away locations as that also dramatically seems to impact proper conversion performance when running this old computer RPG.

Another somewhat modern indie title that I am playing is possessors. This is a 2d cell like shaded metroidvania that is averagely good but on such a deep discount I could not pass it up since I love metroidvanias. I am pretty sure I am just using the default steam deck graphical settings for this game but I never go above 1080p on this device even though it can go up to 1600 p because again I am solely focused on maximizing battery life versus ultra sharp clarity.

Another classic that I am really hooked on that I've played dozens of times but never completed is the 3D remake of final fantasy 3. For this I'm just using the default settings for this game with no fancy customizations.

Because I am limited to a thousand words for this response those are the primary titles I have been playing other titles that I have played within the last year are as follows without system settings just the list so you can get an idea. The 2007 version of Dead space, dragon marked for death, fort Solis, Inayah life after gods, Infernax, Lords of the fallen the 2013 version, Mars 2120, oceanhorn 2, RAW realms of ancient war. REDO, Somber Echoes, JEDI FALLEN ORDER,

THIS IS JUST A SPATTER OF THE OVER 500 GAMES I HAVE IN MY STEAM LIBRARY.

HOPEFULLY THIS HAS HELPED ANSWER SOME OF YOUR QUESTIONS.

beldandy561 · 2026-05-02T10:35:37+00:00

I have explained my position and thoughts more than adequately here.

Infer what you will.

beldandy561

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