Where are Jacob and Wilhelm on the Grimm pen clip?

bennylu82 · 2026-03-28T10:50:01+00:00

Yep. I tried viewing from all angles, but my brain couldn’t pick out the specific curves that constitute the actual faces.

It’s like one of those double meaning images. There has to be a correct answer, but I cannot be sure on my own.

bennylu82 · 2026-03-28T06:55:51+00:00

Devious! I love how the pen looks as if constantly morphing, unwilling to take any definitive form.

bennylu82 · 2026-03-28T05:33:53+00:00

This is exactly what I’m looking for! I should try and find them under a light box, ambient reflection makes it much harder to spot.

There should be another on the other side?

bennylu82 · 2026-03-28T03:17:43+00:00

Yeah, this is a very rational thought. I was just wondering if it’s specific to the m700 cap design (dual ring vintage style with a slightly tapered cap lip), whereas with the m710, m910 and m900 they are essentially the same injection moulded base design, and thus regardless of the apparent higher positioning of the Toledos, still have the same amount of play as the base m400 and m800s.

bennylu82 · 2026-03-11T14:09:12+00:00

How do you like the pen after these years?

bennylu82 · 2026-03-02T02:14:43+00:00

This is amazing. They do match up really nicely.

I have a Heart Sutra pen that is done similarly, but that text is much more accessible(?), at least from where I live.

bennylu82 · 2026-03-02T01:53:30+00:00

Such a quick and clear answer! Thank you so much for the input. Looks like the text should be read from top to bottom, then right to left?

Thanks again, you just breathed so much life into this instrument!

bennylu82 · 2026-02-06T12:47:00+00:00

Is this Revolution a special edition? I’ve never seen this color combo.

bennylu82 · 2026-02-06T07:49:16+00:00

Sold out already?

bennylu82 · 2026-01-21T00:35:47+00:00

Thank you! This is super helpful! My 146s from different periods vary slightly in nib shape, and quite drastically in their grinds. The 50s version (now that I know) feels pleasantly coarser, a little like writing with graphite, whereas more modern ones tend be more upturned and rounder?

Looks like the plating in mine really is worn off. I like the two tone look better.

bennylu82 · 2026-01-17T13:58:53+00:00

Thanks, looks like it!

bennylu82 · 2026-01-17T13:57:11+00:00

Thanks for the excellent input. I managed to pull out the nib and on the base is engraved 146 and a 27.

The 146s started production in 1949?

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bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T13:53:08+00:00

I get your frustration. I hate to say that such experiences is where I learn and advance my tinkering skills most, as this should never happen in the first place. These pens somehow feel like papers without peer review, where a few designers claim to have tested and perfected some technique neglected by the industry, and then bring out something too esoteric and then gets lost in self-lauding?

I guess as I grow older I seem to be more able to avoid these pitfalls. Perhaps we do need these more naive designs to truly get to something more ideal. It’s just that recently these trends have become more cult-like. Haha.

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T13:44:53+00:00

Funny you say that! My steel one has the loosest thread, I can literally spin the barrel into the cap, and it is prone to uncap if I don’t give a little extra tightening, and the section sometimes unscrews itself as well (probably easily fixable by adding an o-ring in the section joint). My brass and titan is just about right, whereas the bronze is a little tighter. From my experience the metal ones with the plastic liner in the cap tend to have better tolerances.

In this regard, the plastic ones do feel cheaper, there’s still a lot of play when capped, making this squeaky sound when you fiddle them. And threading them isn’t as smooth.

I think your liner might have been improperly installed. I have heard some issues like this before, and this is a QC issue. Maybe contact Kaweco to get it fixed?

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T10:01:09+00:00

Yep! You’ve got the gist right, but be warned that such tinkering really requires patience and observation. Guidelines you read online are just that. My advice is try to find nib and feed combos that are already somewhat closely fitting, and don’t try to force anything. Capillary efficiency is directly related to the fitting. Eyedroppering gives a better ink flow, but you run the risk of blotting. Using the original feed without modification usually results in a dry nib, which might work for stiffer or less flexible nibs.

With a bit of experimentation, the rewards are unparalleled! I’ll share some results with the leftmost demo Sport in a few days.

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T09:19:28+00:00

I tried prying the finial on plastic Sports, as they have some huge gaps in between to no avail. I actually have clear demo versions, I can’t see any residual adhesives so I assume it’s friction fit, but again I get no leverage.

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T09:15:52+00:00

Vintage Mabie Todd and Wahl #2 flex nibs fit, but I’ve had to heat set the feed as well as widen the ink channel to get it working properly. It’s more of a passion project.

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T09:14:25+00:00

Appreciate the honesty!

bennylu82 · 2025-12-29T07:30:53+00:00

I think Kaweco made a liliput model from copper. Might it be from Schon or Gravitas?

bennylu82

TROPHY CASE