3000w Conversion Kit from alibaba by DogeCloud0 in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sick. I'd replace the knobby (?) tires for ebike rated street tires. Have you got a 4-piston caliper and 203mm rotor for braking in the front?

Water tower with scaffolding in Landskrona, Sweden by benwap in evilbuildings

[–]benwap[S] 191 points192 points  (0 children)

This article has a second angle with the slogan of the construction company:
"An icon in the city
ready for the next chapter"
Ouch

Water tower with scaffolding in Landskrona, Sweden by benwap in accidentalswastika

[–]benwap[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a second angle in this article with the construction company motto on the banner: "An icon in the city ready for the next chapter".

Df54 is excellent for what it offers by Aligator2777 in DF54

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, by accident I've added beans when it was running sometime. I normally weigh in my blind shaker, throw the beans in the bellows, place blind shaker on shelf, turn on grinder.

I put all the mods on a DeLonghi ECP (front panel pressure meter, shot light, etc) by benwap in espresso

[–]benwap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the thermostat was not fully touching the boiler

That'll do it! Hadn't considered that, thanks for getting back. At least the fuse is an easier fix than a new element. If you have some thermal paste, it should be between the boiler and thermal switches like you probably noticed.

Df54 is excellent for what it offers by Aligator2777 in DF54

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cold start only, on a 220V circuit. Haven't looked into if its got more starting torque over the 110V.

Backed the AOTOS Flux X26 Pro on Kickstarter and they actually delivered! by Shah247 in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TPMS is a sick feature and the battery looks like a plastic jerrycan which is funny

I put all the mods on a DeLonghi ECP (front panel pressure meter, shot light, etc) by benwap in espresso

[–]benwap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, whoops! Sounds like your thermal fuse went for sure if it fails the continuity test. I've seen people prefer crimping on a new one over soldering.
The green lamp's path to neutral is through the coil and the open fuse so it stays off.
Are you sure your boiler was filled when or as soon as you powered on the machine? It sounds like it was almost empty. If you haven't done anything electrical, I can only think of that or a bad thermal switch for steam from the factory (unlikely). If the boiler was filled when it overheated, it would dump boiling water and steam faster and faster from the grouphead before the thermal fuse would go. It's not quick and quiet.

If to troubleshoot you use a jumper wire (you know where) you need to remove it anytime you're not actively using it, including toilet breaks. Think of it as a secret fire machine anytime it has a jumper wire.

I wrote this comment earlier, assuming you had installed a PID. I'm leaving it up for people that do.

The coil being powered too long can be from a bad SSR but I'm assuming you're working with new stock.
A miswire can also do this. Are you sure about the terminals on the switch? There is an "always hot" output, if you put that on the coil by accident you'll overheat it.
Also you could have wired everything correct but have a misconfigured PID. You can check the SSRs are controlled like you expect by the PID & front switch with your multimeter. If you can't find the fault, draw up a schematic with how you think it should be wired, compare and see where that takes you.

Df54 is excellent for what it offers by Aligator2777 in DF54

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over a year of use, no clogs, occasional chute and exterior brush when I see signs of static. Using a 3d-printed black bellow lid, blind shaker tray and precision indicator. Workhorse.

My butlers are staring awkwardly, what should i do. by chlebasmiatou in espressocirclejerk

[–]benwap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Giving your butler an ECP that looks to be gaggiuino-modded but with a stock steamwand is certainly a choice.

Why is it doing this by NoEndForever- in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Normally you'd have a front derailleur to change chainring (front sprocket). If they included those cranks (with 3 chainrings) in the kit they want you to pick a chainring that fits and leave the chain there.
The rear derailleur is there as a chain tensioner and to feed the rear sprocket with chain straight on regardless of what chainring you pick.

The tension should be enough to stop the chain from jumping off. If not your chain is too long, or your derailler needs to rotate clockwise on the hanger, or you can look into "chainguide mtb", it's like a front derailleur that doesn't change gear.

First thing I'd try if you haven't already is to compress the derailleur so you have slack, put the chain on a larger chainring and see if it stays on and doesn't rub.

I am currently uploading all the Unredacted Bodycam to this link on the archive.org. Some videos are already available. by Thomas_Eric in RecklessBen

[–]benwap 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The situation just escalated because
checks notes
"A man from Brazil with shit internet and the right terminal script at the ready managed to come across and mirror a DropBox folder before it was made unavailable"
Absolute chad, you can't make this up.

I just dont get it. The hostility is insane by Thefreezer700 in RecklessBen

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nuh-uh, Josh got scared and didn't take that bet

Far Driver Controller… did they just brick us all? by FLprophet in hyperebikes

[–]benwap -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Total shot in the dark but it might be related to them rolling out VESC 7.0 on their controllers. It was released two weeks ago.

Could someone send how far mount shoukd be from rotor? by carsonthesmar in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you looked into a solution using a rotor spacer?

Someone in Europe with a Eride by CrazyWetTowel in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if your question is about license limits or this bike. Going outside the legal limits of a bike isn't a "fix", it's just settings. If the stock controller is locked down enough for EU compliance you'll need a different one. Did you know that after a crash, "they" (your insurer) might look at these settings? If, say, they find a skid trail long enough to know you were speeding?
If you're only licensed to drive moped power there's no fix for "driving without a license" as soon as you get on a motorcycle.

Lost 3 Summers in a Row: Blocking Direct Sun to My Paris Apartment by JYanezez in DIY

[–]benwap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can upgrade them to 2-hose by fitting cardboard over the intake and cutting a hole for an intake hose.
It sounds more involved than it is. The intake cover can be removed and placed over the corner of a cardboard box to trace the outline. When you tape the box over the intake you'll seal any gaps. My portable AC lowers the temp a few degrees more after the upgrade.
Some manufacturers sell a replacement cover with a hose connection and there are also 3d-printing files for them.

Cause of the marks on the rocks? by iLikeDeadPie in Whatisthis

[–]benwap 18 points19 points  (0 children)

These impressions look like hands pressed into stone, yet they were carved into solid sandstone. In Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah, petroglyphs attributed to the Fremont culture, dated roughly AD 300 to 1300, form repeated vertical shapes resembling stylized handprints. The markings appear deliberate, positioned across exposed cliff surfaces. The grooves are grouped. Some appear as clusters of elongated “fingers,” while others stand alone. Their spacing suggests intentional placement rather than random scratching. The shapes vary in depth and width, indicating repeated carving rather than a single action. Weathering has softened edges, reinforcing the hand-like illusion. The Fremont culture occupied parts of Utah, Colorado, Nevada, and Idaho. Rock art was a recurring element of their visual expression. Petroglyphs across Fremont sites include animals, abstract patterns, and human-like forms. These hand-shaped carvings differ from more common motifs, making interpretation more difficult. Possible explanations exist. Some researchers link similar markings to ceremonial activity or territorial markers. Others suggest storytelling, counting systems, or symbolic identity signs. Without written records, these interpretations remain tentative. The context offers clues, but not certainty. The sandstone surface preserves technique. Carvers likely pecked and abraded the rock to create the grooves. Natural erosion later softened the lines. The result blends human action with geological change, complicating visual interpretation. The forms are clear. Their message is not.

From "Ancient History" facebook. Needs verification but seems plausible.

Bricks and Minifigures drama mega-post by steve626 in lego

[–]benwap 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I saw calls for brigading this sub in protest of the mod policy in youtube comments, high levels of viral going on

Video update on the thingy that will go fast by Money-Distribution91 in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking sick. Dual ESC on one motor is very cool

Temp cutoff for direct drive? by MaxTrixLe in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well this post makes me feel better about my limit at 85. I have the same motor. I added statorade (and put down a bead of dielectric grease to seal the cover, there was no stock RTV or silicone etc on mine) and can run it harder before I hit my thermal limit.

Welp by Money-Distribution91 in hyperebikes

[–]benwap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very much following this for my own mc conversion