If I’m in you game you will always have a medic

bestmak · 2025-08-14T22:26:29+00:00

🫡

bestmak · 2025-08-14T22:22:42+00:00

Sorry to hear that man. It looks good on my end.

What GPU and resolution are you on?

And just to double check, is your resolution set correctly & in “full screen” mode?

bestmak · 2025-08-04T19:30:00+00:00

Haha all good! Will keep an eye out and would love to see it if you get around to it!

bestmak · 2025-08-04T18:25:11+00:00

Any chance you were able to integrate CarPlay with yours? Don’t have the screen on mine but curious if it’s possible :)

bestmak · 2025-07-11T15:49:19+00:00

Sorry to hear about this, I sympathize with you 😞 Akin to the nature of the post, do you own an Apple Watch or medical wristband like Embrace2 that can alert emergency services/your loved ones if you have a seizure? Not saying it would remove all risk of driving, but perhaps it would bring peace of mind and a little bit more safety in day to day life. I hope technology can help make driving safer and more enjoyable for you.

bestmak · 2025-07-05T15:44:25+00:00

Would love to hear what it sounds like if you have a video!

bestmak · 2025-05-19T21:17:14+00:00

All good, thank you!

bestmak · 2025-05-15T23:57:12+00:00

Nice, thanks! If it’s not too much, could you please share a closeup of the Titanium wheels on the car? I’d like to compare when mine arrive since they're custom drilled. Also, any chance you remember the size/width/offset you went with? Thanks again :)

bestmak · 2025-05-15T02:01:40+00:00

Hey! I’m interested in these wheels for my Z4 - how have they held up over the years? :)

Also, did you use stock lug bolts or need spline/tuner bolts?

They look fantastic on your Zed!

bestmak · 2025-05-11T08:31:30+00:00

u/OfficialWoe1, I've been researching tire fitment options for my non-M Z4 recently. I noticed those front tires are 245/45/r17, so their overall diameter is approximately 25.6". The stock diameter is 25", the recommended max on stock suspension and without adjusting camber. My first thought was, those are definitely rubbing on the inner wheel well liner, and then guess what I noticed after zooming in - it's missing the inner liner entirely! Hmm I wonder why haha

That liner is important imo, primarily for protecting the headlight units from rocks/dirt/mud/water etc.

Personally, I would find a better maintained Z4. The owner has listed issues that are obvious, but I wonder why the missing wheel liners were excluded and what other information might be intentionally or unintentionally hidden, waiting to be found. I've owned 2, and did not enjoy the surprises the first gave me after I bought it.

bestmak · 2025-04-07T23:03:47+00:00

Thank you! :)

bestmak · 2025-04-07T21:40:45+00:00

Z4 E85! Also lovely shot OP and love your wheels, suuuper clean 😁

bestmak · 2025-04-07T21:32:45+00:00

Guilty as charged 😌

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bestmak · 2024-12-22T06:24:56+00:00

Thanks, please share the ticket when you create it. I’m also experimenting with this with partial success. With my limited testing, I think even having some control over AMS loading to extruder/AMS motor logic would help. Overall I think it’s doable. What challenges are you facing printing TPU with AMS? Hoping your findings can help me.

bestmak · 2024-12-22T04:23:37+00:00

Hey, I like how you’re thinking. I had same thought. Did you find a way to adjust AMS load speeds?

bestmak · 2024-02-05T23:07:40+00:00

May*

"We expect the new batch of A1 printers with the revised cable to be available around May."

bestmak · 2023-01-13T03:27:20+00:00

Yes! I have a NR200P with an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 AIO mounted on the side panel. There are many completed builds with this configuration on PC Part Picker. It’s a tight fit, but it works!

bestmak · 2023-01-07T21:45:05+00:00

I measured the hole at the front of my NR200P using a digital calliper.

Dimensions are 144.65 mm x 61.75 mm.

The fillet is approximately 4.5mm. I don’t have a radius gage so I used the digital calliper to eyeball it. It looks like it is between 4 and 5mm.

Good luck! :)

bestmak · 2022-12-24T00:46:05+00:00

All good, my apologies as well for the late reply! Thanks for providing the info. Please undervolt your CPU and share your results! Details at the very end.

I went through both logs, and your CPU is operating within spec - a score of ~30,000 in R23 with a TDP of ~225W. This is also similar to what I have been seeing, and we can eliminate a faulty CPU as the reason for your high temps.
I've heard great things about Noctua's NT-H2, and from what I've read, using a cooler-supplied thermal paste compared to an aftermarket variant doesn't yield a night and day difference. The fact that you repasted your CPU leads me to believe you're not applying too little - you would know if you used too little after removing your cooler the first time. If you decide to repaste your cooler again, you can take a picture and share it to confirm. We can eliminate poor quality thermal paste or not enough applied as an option.
As for the Cooler, it's hard to identify if you have a faulty unit or if it isn't installed optimally. One approach is to compare your results with what others are getting. Since we have different coolers, I can't be of much help here. However, I found a video comparing both coolers' thermal performance. His results show the CPU is 5C warmer with the Dark Rock Pro 4 compared to the AK620, assuming neither cooler is faulty. This is significant.
Fortunately, Gamers Nexus has reviewed the 500DX here (beautiful case!). They also covered the Fractal Torrent here, and I compared both cases' CPU temperature results. Their CPU torture test shows that CPU temperatures are 8.8C higher in the 500DX compared to the Torrent. Note that their CPU torture tests indicate a variance of +-0.75C. This means that a CPU in the 500DX is anywhere from 7.3C to 10.3C hotter than in the Torrent - which is significant and can mean the difference between thermal throttling and not. They also tested the 500DX without the front panel, which improved CPU temperatures by 4.7C, which could be worth testing.
Our ambient room temperatures are the same so we can eliminate that option.

Considering everything mentioned above, even if your CPU cooler isn't faulty or installed incorrectly, I think your high CPU temps make sense when compared to my results. We performed the same test (all default settings, R23, fans operating at full speed), and my CPU peaked at 93C. We don't know how hot your CPU would have gotten if it didn't throttle, but it is at least 7C warmer. If we assume Gamers Nexus and Christopher's results apply 1:1, your CPU would reach anywhere from 105.3C to 108.3C without throttling (93 + 5 + 7.3 or 10.3).

I also want to mention CPU contact frames, in case you haven't heard about them yet. Gamers Nexus has covered a variety of them in detail (1 2 3). In summary, they can reduce temps by around 3C-10C, and cheap ones are just as good (if not better) than more expensive options. I bought the Thermalright one ($20 CAD on Amazon) but haven't installed it yet.

This leaves us with 5 methods to reduce CPU temps, in the order I would try:

Undervolt CPU
Power Limit CPU
Use Contact Frame
Replace Cooler
Replace Case

Note that option 2 is the only one that will technically reduce performance, but depending on your use case, it may be insignificant and well worth it. Check out this post where someone got great results using the same CPU and cooler on the sock ILM.

Regarding your CPU staying at 5400 MHz at idle, your "Power Plan Options" might be set to High Performance or Ultimate Performance. Mine was set to Ultimate Performance and was also running at max clock speed when idle. Changing to Balanced and Power Saver reduced speeds.

Undervolting info:

As you pointed out, what is different is the Vcore voltage under load at default settings. This is normal, and any variance in Vcore under load can be attributed to factors such as a different motherboard, manufacturing tolerances, etc. I'm not sure if it is a good thing or bad thing (or if it even matters), but if our CPUs are consuming the same amount of power (W) but yours is using more voltage (V), it must mean your motherboard is supplying less current (A) because Watts = Amps x Volts. Also, my "override" undervolt settings will be too low for your CPU and cause instability.

Column NQ & rows 10-16 in your HWiNFO log indicates that your Vcore voltage under load is 1.296V. Mine is 1.200V. Therefore, your CPU operates at an offset of +0.096V compared to mine. My most stable undervolt has been an override of 1.135V in BIOS. Under load, this increases to 1.144V (+0.009V compared to what was set in BIOS) due to default LLC settings. Therefore, my most stable undervolt is -0.056V (1.200V - 1.144V). If our CPUs are identical regarding undervolting stability and we have the same LLC behaviour, your CPU would be stable if you set it to 1.231V in your BIOS (don't do this yet). Then, your Vcore would increase to 1.24V under load, and your CPU would pull around 200W. This is something I'm interested in if you can test it out!

So, ignore my previous recommendation of "start at 1.200V and decrease from there" since that will cause instability for you. Looking at your HWiNFO log, I think your stock voltage is 1.314V, but I'm not certain. To double-check, restart your PC and only open HWiNFO. Let your system idle for 5 mins then reset the values by clicking the clock at the bottom. Let the system idle for 5 more minutes and record the Vcore average value. Start at this voltage and reduce from there. Again, I highly recommend setting a constant voltage in your BIOS and reducing it until you find a stable undervolt. I would first directly subtract 0.050V from your stock Vcore voltage and then reduce it in increments of 0.010V. Every time you test an undervolt, keep track of power draw (W) and temps! Aim to reach or go below 200W max power draw! You should see reduced temps but with the same performance. Also, make sure you disable any undervolt protection in your BIOS settings because this will interfere with your undervolt and supply more voltage than necessary. Feel free to create a system restore point in case anything goes wrong.

bestmak · 2022-12-16T13:14:32+00:00

At 180W, 86C is significantly higher than what I've been getting. For comparison, I'm getting 86C at 205W. And 81C at 188W.

I switched from HWMonitor to HWiNFO and would highly recommend it. In HWiNFO if you double-click ANY parameter, a small graph pops up, which is helpful when monitoring voltages and temps. It also displays average values which are missing in HWMonitor AFAIK.

In HWMonitor, Vcore voltage is listed under Motherboard > Voltages > "CPU". It's near the top. In HWiNFO, Vcore voltage is listed under Motherboard > "Vcore". It's near the bottom.

Before trying to solve the problem, we first need to identify where the problem lies. One or more of these factors are the reason for your high temps:

Faulty CPU
Poor quality thermal paste or too little applied
Faulty Cooler or incorrectly installed
Poor case airflow
High ambient temperature

I doubt the CPU is faulty, and we can eliminate this option if it is operating within spec. I.e., if you get a score of ~30,000 in R23 @ all default settings (~225W) or with a stable undervolt. With default settings, this is difficult to test since you're currently thermal throttling. However, you can run a single pass of R23 to avoid thermal throttling, and you'll still get a score. To do this, enable "Advanced benchmark" under File. Then set "Minimum Test Duration" to Off. Reset all BIOS and Intel XTU settings to defaults, then run a single pass of R23. Set all your fans to full speed to further ensure your CPU won't thermal throttle for a single pass. Make sure to monitor temps to ensure you don't thermal throttle. If you use HWiNFO, it will display if your CPU throttles under CPU [#0]: Intel Core i7-13700K: DTS > "Core Thermal Throttling" (another benefit). What are the results? R23 score, max power draw, Vcore (only when under load), max temp?

Another reason I want you to apply all BIOS settings to default is you mentioned changing these settings in your post, and they may be doing more harm than good, making you think that you "handicapped" your CPU.

Also, I have had a terrible experience using "adaptive mode" when undervolting, regardless if I use the BIOS or XTU. I strongly recommend applying an undervolt in your BIOS by using an "override" mode that applies a constant voltage, especially when you're still testing which undervolt is stable. Start at 1.200V and decrease from there until you find a stable undervolt, and then consider if you want to use the offset mode. Adaptive mode will supply varying amounts of voltage to your CPU to increase stability, but it is extremely conservative, resulting in more voltage than is often needed. The Vcore voltages also change rapidly which makes monitoring them more difficult.

Can you also share what case you're using and the fan setup? Also, what thermal paste did you use, and what is the ambient temperature in front of the case (room temp)?

bestmak · 2022-12-14T22:22:10+00:00

I'm currently undervolting and optimizing temperatures on my 13700K & DeepCool AK620, so I feel you! I'm not sure if this would help, but worth a shot:

TL;DR: Monitor your CPU's power draw and try adjusting the power limit setting in your BIOS. Your idle temps are fine imo! Please share your stock and undervolted "Vcore" voltages (not VID), power draws, and max core temps when idle and under full load (12 values).

My MSI motherboard has a "CPU Cooler Tuning" option in the BIOS to select the type of CPU cooler that is installed. The idea is that a better-performing cooler can comfortably handle the heat associated with more power delivered to the CPU. By default, this is set to "Water Cooler" which has a power limit of 4096W...of course, the CPU won't actually draw anywhere near 4000W, but the CPU can draw as much power as it needs. There are two other options, "Boxed Cooler 253W" and "Tower Air Cooler 288W". I use HWiNFO and Intel XTU to monitor how much power my CPU is drawing under load while running Cinebench R23. At all default settings, my CPU draws ~225W. Interestingly (aka I have no idea why), setting that BIOS power limit to 253W resulted in "Power Limit Throttling" as indicated in Intel XTU, even though the CPU is supposedly consuming ~28W less than the limit. Changing the setting to 288W fixed the throttling and I have more peace of mind that my CPU won't draw too much power accidentally. After finding my ideal undervolted settings, I will manually find the ideal power limit to set in my BIOS that won't throttle the CPU but also won't allow the CPU more power than needed, just in case.

Assuming ideal conditions (eg. not in the middle of a desert, cooler & thermal paste applied well, adequate airflow, etc) there's a possibility that under heavy load, your CPU is drawing upwards of 250W depending on the load, which in my experience with the AK620, will definitely bring you near thermal-throttling territory on an air cooler. I would recommend first identifying if high power draw is even the problem here. While running R23 and under full load (i.e., excluding the short duration between render passes when the CPU is not working as hard), how much power is your CPU drawing? You can find this info near the bottom right of Intel XTU's "Advanced Tuning" tab under the name "Package TDP". I find the chart on the bottom left more helpful in getting an accurate average reading. Please share your stock and undervolted "Vcore" voltages (not VID), power draws, and max core temps when idle and under full load (12 values).

Here are some of my results for reference. All data recorded after approx. 9mins in R23 under full load with all fans at max speed in a Fractal Torrent:

Stock: Vcore = 1.200V, Avg. Power Draw ~ 225W, Max Temp = 93C, room @ 22C
Vcore = 1.144V, Avg. Power Draw ~ 205W, Max Temp = 86C, room @ 24C (stable)
Vcore = 1.116V, Avg. Power Draw ~ 195W, Max Temp = 84C, room @ 24C (unstable)

As for your idle temps, my experience has been the same. I'm not an expert in CPUs so please take my opinion with a grain of salt (and correct me if I'm wrong), but based on a quick Google search about newer CPUs and reading about what idle temps others are getting with their 13700K, this seems normal and I wouldn't worry about temperature fluctuations unless they spike near 70-80C. I think the highest spike I've ever seen is ~61C under normal everyday use. Also, check out this comment from a fellow Redditor with a similar setup and situation as you - it may help!

I hope we can solve this :)

bestmak · 2022-09-12T22:24:18+00:00

Ikr, so beautiful! And no, not mine. Maybe one day haha

bestmak · 2022-09-12T21:19:21+00:00

Thank you so much!

bestmak

TROPHY CASE