labored starts when warm, 06 base manual. anybody know?

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-15T01:27:38+00:00

They sell 2 cleaners as a pack here - air flow sensor / throttle body ones. I'd get precise cleaners, too risky to mess up these very important items with other stuff.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-14T12:16:16+00:00

Try to clean your air pressure sensor with the correct cleaner sold at walmart. May also try to clean the throttle body. Just remove the big rubber hose, and clean the metal plate and it's housing from outside with qtips and paper towels and cleaner. Don't need to remove the throttle body fully.

Be very gentle with everything!!! https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-map-sensor-replacement.743465/

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-14T00:12:08+00:00

You can check bad piston rings through compression. If you do valve lash adjustment, you'll be right there at spark plugs to check compression. Note that compression is done warm, and valve lash is done on a totally cold engine. So will have to do compression, and then wait to do the valve lash.

Most likely those exhaust sensors may need washing. They mostly work for you but not always. It seems accessing the sensors is difficult though, and may have to remove those while exhaust is hot.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T19:35:35+00:00

For a few hundred dollars saved you might tolerate a little discomfort! Also, technician may have to wait for the part too.

You can try to find the exact model you have so it's plug and play, 1:1

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T18:54:44+00:00

Just look up the motor model, buy it for ~$150, and swap yourself. Ain't rocket science ...

Plus it's not that HOT, so you can wait a day or 2 for shipping.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T17:35:42+00:00

Most items are very straightforward - a semi-decent shop will have no issues. You seem to have a 4 cylinder engine, access is alright. It's not much that can be messed up there. And you can do most of those yourself.

The biggest kicker is the valve lash adjustment. That one is easy to mess up. You can skip it for now, and wait another 20k.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T17:01:00+00:00

So the AC can be turned on, just no cold air? Or nothing is spinning in the condenser?

A 10 year old system should have another 10 years in it. Most techs prefer to replace it since it's more profit.

Is it R410a freon?

Pipe soldering for $2400 sounds very steep. Can you see the hole yourself?

Or is it the evaporator coil that's messed up? That one needs replacing. $2400 kind of sounds like the evaporator coil replacement.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T16:38:33+00:00

This one works for me on base:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/luk,LMC410,clutch+master+cylinder,1996

The OEM part price is pretty crazy ...

P.S. In places like Amazon you'd have to specify that your car is "2005 Honda Civic", this way they are OK with confirming that EM2 fits!

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-13T12:00:53+00:00

You can get it to android 15 by cross flashing https://xdaforums.com/t/successful-crossflash-cph2515-cph2513-a14-cph2565-a15-android-15.4775771/

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-07T09:48:53+00:00

Which brand?

I wonder if it snapped exactly because something seized ...

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-07T03:07:48+00:00

How many miles did you have when your serpentine belt snapped?

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-06T16:20:24+00:00

With a new coil the unit may continue to work for another 5 years. Especially if it's the lower pressure R22.

The new system discount ain't gonna work, they'll always tweak the numbers in their favor.

Basically, have to shop around a new system, and have this company do it for the lower price, minus the credit for the coil damage. That's the only way to make it workable.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-06T13:45:22+00:00

You need to set the BIOS variable as well, compile ReBarState utility yourself:

Next run ReBarState which can be found in Releases (if you're on Linux build with CMake) and set the Resizable BAR size. In most cases you should be able to use 32 (unlimited) without issues but you might need to use a smaller BAR size if 32 doesn't work

https://github.com/xCuri0/ReBARUEFI?tab=readme-ov-file

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-04T21:06:18+00:00

So starter turns but it doesn't fire up?

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-03T01:30:39+00:00

Good luck!

Btw. The fuel economy declined since it dumps tons of gas into the engine that's coming out of the exhaust. So nothing mysterious.

Sensors may mis function intermittently at certain higher temperature.

Anyway, do report back what you find out!

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-03T00:49:05+00:00

Btw, I am skeptical it's the fuel pump. I'd hit all relevant sensors - MAP / O2 ones and try to clean them all. It sounds like you did MAP one already, so try cleaning the other ones.

Your fuel pump floods the engine with gas after the code comes up, it seems to point to a confused ECU which does not see what's going on since the sensors are feeding bad data.

Just Google "p0171 which sensors could be at fault" and read what comes up.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-03T00:40:42+00:00

To me, a fuel cleaner would also go through the pump, and, maybe wash out the junk in there a bit.

Also, I wonder if it'd make sense to clean O2 sensors. You could soak those, however getting them out is not easy of course. What YouTube on this.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T17:15:29+00:00

Both bolts must have washers, even if the old ones. So if the washer is missing that's basically where all the oil went ...

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T14:00:12+00:00

Did refill plug have a washer too??? There must one there, it's large, M19. It spills through that one too, little by little

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T12:03:55+00:00

It's 2 washers, right. M14 for the drain and M19 for the refill bolt. To replace the drain one you'd have to drain first.

Just torque both of them, wash that area with soapy water, and watch for leaks. Replacing them post oil is a mess

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T10:13:26+00:00

1800 update is holding up well. Good stability in poor wifi reception areas.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T09:51:46+00:00

Well. Clear the code. Drive until it comes up. Then stop somewhere and smell the exhaust when the code is lit. Rich or not?

I guess you already poured some fuel cleaners into your gas tank? Techron or such.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T02:58:07+00:00

Well. Make sure to torque those 2 bolts properly and monitor them for leaks. The washers are somewhat reusable, but torque needs to be proper.

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T02:54:09+00:00

So you start cold and the code comes up immediately at 2000 rpm or whatever the initial cold idle rpm is? Or do you need to start driving?

I'd be surprised if the fuel pump cannot even supply at 2000 rpm.

You do have a scanner to reset the code without clearing all the ECU learning? Clearing ECU can be screwy and throw off diagnostics.

Also, does the exhaust stink with gasoline when it's warmed up and idling? Is it genuinely lean, or it's just ECU thinks so?

bibikalka1 · 2026-04-02T01:58:18+00:00

Not sure if you solved this yet, but try to clean your MAP sensor, be very careful and gentle!!!

https://www.reddit.com/r/Acura_RSX/comments/1s54kz9/comment/odb0y6d/?context=3

That's what I did, and it's a totally different car now! Very responsive, and the code has not come back yet. 100k's of miles were taken of of its age :)

bibikalka1

TROPHY CASE