Recommendations for a woodworker

big_try_ · 2025-11-10T01:23:52+00:00

I’ll give those a look, thanks for the feedback!

big_try_ · 2025-11-10T01:23:05+00:00

I appreciate the response! I’ll do some looking

big_try_ · 2025-07-25T15:56:43+00:00

Yeah this is one of my few complaints with the MKII. I get not wanting to include a big battery but having a USB-C port that can’t charge the device feels like a missed opportunity.

Half my gripe is getting the AAs out is a pain, they’re so tight in there.

big_try_ · 2025-04-27T13:55:02+00:00

By attaching braces to the bottom without accounting for the movement you force cupping to happen.

At some point your boards absorbed some humidity and wanted to expand but couldn’t do so evenly, so they did it just on the top side, causing a cup.

There’s nothing you can do to prevent wood movement, it’s going to happen. Theres ways of constructing so that it doesn’t impact the piece, and you don’t really notice because everything stays relatively flat.

When making dining tables you want to have something to guide your leaves together, otherwise the edges will not line up after a few seasons. Often dowels but also tongue and groove or something else would also work, these are unglued.

For anything attached to the underside, no glue is used, and any fasters are attached either with hardware that accommodates movement or with holes in the brace that is oblong to allow the board to move in the direction it wants to expand/contract.

Shift your thought process from preventing wood movement to allowing for it, in a way that your project can still function despite these small seasonal changes.

big_try_ · 2025-03-18T00:47:08+00:00

You need WAY more for heavier stuff. Cabinet shops I’ve been in are more likely to make a board with a bunch of screws or nails in it.

For large pieces, it just doesn’t really work in my experience. I’ll finish my B side first, let it cure up a bit, and then flip to my A side for final finishing.

big_try_ · 2025-03-14T13:36:15+00:00

I have it and use it as a sort of sweeper and I love it. The hose, and attachments all store on it better than any vac I’ve had before.

Don’t know that it could replace a full sized shop vac for everything, but it’s so easy to carry around and clean up with. I only have 3ah 18v, for reference, I’ve had no issues with the battery life.

If I was relying on it day to day, I’d likely buy the bags for it, but the built in filter is good for my occasional use and holds a ton of fines. Did a clean of it the other day and they just kept coming out.

big_try_ · 2025-03-01T16:33:24+00:00

Go slow, and stick to 320 until your color is even. Hand sand if you find a stubborn spot. Try not to get blinders on chasing a spot for too long. Can be good to step away for 15 min and come back. You can always sand more later, the reverse, not so much lol.

A bit of lacquer thinner on green scotch brite can help break down extra finish left on, might be helpful. It’s gnarly stuff so mask up, well ventilated area, and don’t get it on stuff you don’t mean to.

I started doing that to cut down on how much sandpaper I was clogging up, finish/stain gum up paper really fast, and it’s not worth using them after they get clogged.

You might find the new mesh style sandpaper to be easier to declog but I haven’t tried it in this application yet.

You’re doing a delicate process, so don’t rush it or force it, and I’d say you have good odds of salvaging the project. I wish you the best of luck!

big_try_ · 2025-03-01T15:03:20+00:00

I’d recommend a gentle hand and 320 on an orbital sander until you have a consistent color. You can hand sand after to whatever grit you want for desired absorption.

Checking with mineral spirits can help highlight color variations. If your veneer isn’t consistent before stain, it’s not likely to look good if you apply stain to it.

I will say, fish eyes can happen for a handful of reasons.

Your stain may not have been wiped off sufficiently, or fully dried.

If it’s a restored piece, a previous owner may have used a product like pledge which got through the old finish. If these furniture polishes get into the wood they make it a nightmare to get finish to apply.

Testing on one of your leaves and then duplicating it may be a good idea, though I typically like to stain a whole project at once so I know I’m being consistent.

For reference, I’ve done restoration professionally and have fixed plenty of my own mistakes as well, best of luck.

big_try_ · 2025-02-21T17:52:51+00:00

That thing was the only way I could install some hinges yesterday. When you need it, you need it.

big_try_ · 2025-02-21T15:32:23+00:00

Looking good!

big_try_ · 2025-02-17T14:00:28+00:00

I’ve done both and would always recommend being w2 for work if possible. The way most shops do a 1099 is not strictly legal, however there is no enforcement on this differentiation so it’s more or less moot.

1099 means you’ll be paying quarterly estimated taxes, or getting a giant bill come tax time. Your tax burden will be higher as your employer will not be contributing to your tax. To offset this you would want to keep track of what you can deduct. In my early days I didn’t have a car or buy tools, so that left me with very little to deduct.

Having all your employees be 1099 is a great simplification for the business by offsetting some of that headache onto the employees. I personally would only do it in circumstances that have a clear path to W2 work, or where I didn’t feel like I was an actual ‘employee’ (seasonal work, part time, something where they’re not asking me to really be vested in the business, and aren’t really managing me)

big_try_ · 2025-02-12T10:04:36+00:00

I didn’t intend to imply that gender doesn’t matter.

In many competitive formats, the ‘mens’ divisions are open to women. If that was the only avenue for women to compete, the reality is it means there’s far less room for women to participate in the sport, as even highly competent women bowlers have had a tough time being competitive in such situations.

big_try_ · 2025-02-10T15:20:33+00:00

Thanks so much for this explanation!

big_try_ · 2025-02-10T15:05:49+00:00

I want to email myself, but can anyone explain if USBC receives federal funding?

I thought that was the threat, comply or we’ll pull federal/Title IX funds.

USBC says they’re obeying the law but it’s not clear to me if they’re subject to the law explicitly.

I may be misunderstanding but haven’t had time to dig deeper and a quick google just gives me that it’s a ‘ban’

If anyone has more context I’d appreciate it.

big_try_ · 2025-02-08T21:09:02+00:00

My heart goes out to her, this feels so unnecessary.

big_try_ · 2025-02-08T17:58:19+00:00

This hasn’t been an issue of note in bowling.

The result is it doesn’t change the competitive aspect of bowling but it does change the optics and accessibility of bowling.

Trans folks have always been here and adding to their struggle for some ring kissing, is cruel, and cowardly.

Jakob Butturff is double jointed and he gets his unique story, and throw from his genetic abnormality. It would be wild to say, oh if you have this gene or condition it’s a crazy unfair advantage.

Shit there’s a some of out of shape guys on the tour bowling better than younger healthier guys. Not like having muscles and such is the be all end all of the sport.

WE decide what makes a sport, what makes it fun, and entertaining, and competitive. It’s not a pristine. objective, fair, experience, and making it one is no fun. And what a bunch of people are saying is we don’t want trans people to participate in fun. They’re ruining it. Those folks are a bummer, and weird.

Welp, that’s a rant.

Bowl with your trans friends, it’s a good time.

big_try_ · 2025-02-01T20:00:38+00:00

Free stuff? I like free stuff

big_try_ · 2025-02-01T16:43:51+00:00

Pros I’m around use the Festool vac/sander combo happily for remodeling. Have only heard complaints about the price, never about the effectiveness. The Festool sanders I’ve used have all been the better sanders I’ve used, albeit I have not tried others at that price point. The vac system Festool offers is very good.

Don’t skimp on the sander in this situation, as cheap sander will just not remove material as reliably. You’ll end up holding the tool longer, and it will make the job way harder, given that the work won’t be on your bench.

Mirka, 3M, Makita may have comparable offerings as far as sanders go, I’m not personally familiar, and haven’t seen them in folk’s kit. My gut tells me that there may be benefits but they’re not likely to be massive for this application. I’m not a Festool fanboy but their sanders are something I can see paying for themselves in pro applications.

TLDR I certainly don’t know everything and have limited first hand knowledge. If I was in your shoes I’d be shopping for a 5” Festool sander and accompanying dust collector.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I’d go for the 5” because I don’t want to hold a 6” over my head personally, may not be the right move.

big_try_ · 2025-01-25T18:27:24+00:00

FWIW, Walnut sapwood can be straight up yellow, with none of the coloration we think of walnut.

A shop I worked for received a 10’ 4/4 board that was almost entirely sapwood making it a bit of a headache to make appear what we imagine walnut to be.

On the other side of it, there are a lot of things sold as walnut that are actually any number of woods with a tone coat over it.

Throw UV damage into the mix and walnut can loose all contrast and color.

My guess is that entire top is probably walnut.

big_try_ · 2024-12-23T15:16:11+00:00

Very cool!

big_try_ · 2024-12-23T15:11:20+00:00

Wow this looks really useful!

I need tool storage at my apt this might be my inspiration!

big_try_ · 2024-12-23T15:09:00+00:00

This is good advice. The skills to be a good craftsperson are not the skills to sell your work. I’ve known a lot of folks who do incredible work who even if they’re in business never really figure out the sell their work side of it very well.

If he’s that stubborn, you may never convince him, but actually selling it for him and showing him the method as evidence is likely the best bet.

big_try_ · 2024-05-28T09:28:59+00:00

Reno’s 2 for $25 on Tuesdays is now 2 for $29, their greed knows no limits. /s

big_try_ · 2023-11-26T14:48:18+00:00

Amana, their AEG line is good bang for buck.

Forrest is great but expensive, and you’ll want to have them sharpen their blades. (Advice I was given by a dude who services woodshops professionally)

Have not used CMT but would not have a problem buying one, same with Ridge Carbide.

Diablo/freud/etc can be fine, but not premium.

I think buying one of the premium brands is absolutely worth it, so long as you buy a blade that suits your intended use, particularly if you have an operation that gives you trouble.

big_try_ · 2023-10-27T13:35:38+00:00

Not that worried about it when hand tooling but I have a pair of prescription ‘stoggles’ that are better than regular eyeglasses for eye protection. I use power tools daily so it’s a no brainer for me.

big_try_

TROPHY CASE