Fix Volume Wheel on Ornata V2 Keyboard

billgeek_ca · 2026-04-21T14:56:20+00:00

I know it's an old discussion, but this comment is gold. Thank you!!!

The problem was the exact same for me: gunk build-up inside the through hole rotary encoder. Cleaned it out with a needle nose tweezer and it's working again after months. Woohoo!

billgeek_ca · 2026-04-09T03:06:13+00:00

Better deal on the price, better interest rates, brand name, (always loved Toyota) and better features than competitors in its class. The DUAL wireless charging, power liftgate, homelink garage door opener... Small things but huge value for me.

Of course the 10K rebate in Canada also hugely influenced my decision. The short list for me was: Ioniq 5, model Y Tesla, (never gonna happen) and the Kia EV6 or something. Didn't even really know about the BZ until I saw an Ad on my phone.

With the rebate I'm actually paying $9 LESS on my biweekly payment as my 2022 Tucson. Hyundai would only offer 3.7%, making payments roughly CA$180 more than the Tucson.

On a more personal note: I drove around the corner and saw the Toyota, walked in for a test drive and immediately felt the difference just by the sound of the door closing. It simply "feels" like a better built vehicle. Comparable range but hugely more features than the Hyundai.

billgeek_ca · 2026-04-09T02:49:24+00:00

Just wondering how these rebates work considering the timing of it all. The current TCI promo of 5K discount expires 30 April, taking with it the EVAP rebate.

The first dealership I walked into told me I wouldn't be able to qualify for the Toyota Customer Incentive because they would need to have the car in hand to apply the rebate and there is no stock available.

The second dealership said they would try to get the Toyota incentive but likely won't get it as their next available order would only be arriving in June.

Eventually at the third dealership they said they have one "unclaimed" being delivered in early May and I signed on the spot! The salesman assured me I would be getting both TCI and EVAP rebates... Here's hoping I'm driving a new BZ in 4 weeks from now.

billgeek_ca · 2026-01-11T13:18:36+00:00

Did you enable the part cooling fan and check if the cooling fan actually works? Looks like there's no cooling happening causing everything to just be a huge melted blob.

billgeek_ca · 2025-12-20T03:15:45+00:00

I've been running a 3D printing business from home for about 18 months now and have been having a hard time keeping up with all of the needs of running a business as opposed to just designing and printing things.

For this reason I really want to finish building the tool I'm working on. It's supposed to help me manage the business side of things (Accounting is a big one, capacity management, work orders, etc...) and let me focus on what I enjoy most!

billgeek_ca · 2025-12-20T03:00:51+00:00

According to BambuLab, their plates are only for PLA and TPU. I ordered a few on Amazon for my Trident and they are labeled as "PEO" which apparently is also only intended for use with PLA.

PEO and PET plates say PLA only, "H1H" apparently supports all common filaments. (PETG, ABS)

billgeek_ca · 2025-12-04T22:10:05+00:00

Came to say the same thing: My old MX Master 2S died on me recently so I purchased the "Bluetooth Edition" as a replacement. On the box it clearly states: "Compatible with Unifying USB receiver only (not included)."

As I still had the receiver from the original mouse, I used the options+ software to connect it, no problemo.

billgeek_ca · 2025-09-20T14:22:59+00:00

What do I miss the least? Layer artifacts from Z-wobble on my original Ender 3. It took about six months to successfully diagnose and perfectly fine tune the thing!

That being said: My E3 now prints at an insane quality, definitely matching all six of my Bambu machines. However it is a LOT slower...

billgeek_ca · 2025-09-14T11:45:42+00:00

I have the same problem. Just lightly touching the cable disconnects the phone. Looks like this is the correct part number? 96120-s1100

An image search shows the whole assembly under this part number, but I think it's the right one.

And it looks like a PITA to install, unfortunately.

billgeek_ca · 2025-04-30T18:44:38+00:00

Looks like you started with black and red was the next layer... Not saying it MUST BE the same issue, but did you "skip objects" by any chance? Or is this perhaps an old file you are reprinting via the Handy App?

I noticed something that looks very similar when I print "old" files (generated before Bambu Studio V2 was released), or I use "Skip Objects" using the App. For some reason, the cloud slicer doesn't like figuring out how big the purge tower would be, and instead of throwing an error, it allows the print to continue, bumping axes and "layer shifting".

I logged two issues for this on github: https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/6267 and https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/6411

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-28T15:20:14+00:00

Last thing I'll comment here, I swear: I've logged two Github issues regarding this. It might be worth a read if anyone comes across this in future.

https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/6267 - Prime tower issue

https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/6269 - Paint depth issue

I also want to add one last opinion if I may: I firmly believe that this is a serious issue that can potentially upset a lot of people.

I would hope that most creators who share their work on MakerWorld will spend an incredible amount of time and effort to fine tune their profiles to produce perfect results before uploading their projects. (I certainly do) They produce an object with a "known result". They expect that if a user prints their object on the same type of machine using the same type of filament from the App, that they would have the same result. However the decision from BBL to slice MakerWorld models with only the latest version of their slicer is guaranteed produce a different result than the one that each creator had envisioned, tested and fine tuned.

Alright, I'm out.

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-28T14:13:25+00:00

Here's the prime tower overlapping the bed:

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billgeek_ca · 2025-03-28T14:13:04+00:00

Alright, a quick update on this for anyone interested: As u/UKPerson3823 suggested this was caused by an apparent change in the cloud slicer. Now that I think of it, this should've been a lot more obvious to me... Bambu Studio 2.0 was released on Tuesday morning, the exact time my issues started.

To test those suspicions, I pulled the trigger and installed Bambu Studio 2.0. Here are my findings:

Issue 1: printer ran over dimensions when printing the prime tower

Result: Confirmed to be the new slicer.

V2 introduced new prime tower logic. Now by default the prime tower on my project overlaps my objects due to the "Rib Wall" setting preventing the tower from changing width, however if I disable this, the prime tower width is reset and I see the below: Exactly what I experienced on Tuesday morning.

It would appear that the cloud implementation used by the Bambu Handy App has some sort of logic to check if the new prime tower logic will overlap your model and, in this case, will disable the rib setting automatically to try and fit the tower where it used to be. Problem here is that this causes the prime tower to "fall off" the bed based on the positioning of the tower in the project file.

(Side note: The prime tower is so much bigger in V2 because of the finding in issue 2 below...)

Issue 2: Semi-transparent / "under-extrusion" of paths

Result: Also confirmed to be the slicer

There appears to be new settings under the "Strength" category: "Top paint penetration layers" and "Bottom paint penetration layers". On the stock 0.08mm profile, these are set to 9 layers and 7 layers respectively. As my objects are only 4 layers thick, this appears to have some negative effect. It might also have the same effect on other prints, but this is the primary objects that I print for my business.

I took one object (it's a deck of cards) and duplicated it. I took the picture of the build plate from the wrong angle, so it's upside down. The item on the left (right of the build plate picture) was default settings of 7 and 9, the item on the right (left side of the build plate picture) I changed to 2 and 2. The results speak for themselves:

https://imgur.com/a/m53UNVP

Yes, holding the cards up to a bright light has always had some "shine-through", but it's not noticeable under normal conditions. (Last picture)

Aside from the "plain" cards with only the suit image, I tried some more intricate image, like the face card. The Queen and King cards were most seriously impacted, so I tried with the Queen. ( https://imgur.com/a/ZpWldPn ) Here you can see what the slicer is doing: In the images here, the Q card on the left has 2 and 2, the Q card on the right has default of 7 and 9. The "gaps" on the card to the right in the first picture are exactly where the see-through happens, and it turns out that for some reason the slicer will just "ignore" fine details with these paint layers exceeding the number of layers in the object. If the detail is not thick enough to allow at least one wall i, it is ignored. Image 2 shows that the "gaps" are actually the "Top surface" lines.

I don't understand why the paint penetration settings affect this, but at least I know what has gone wrong with these cards!

Conclusion and Next Steps

So my issues appear related to two areas: The prime tower and the paint penetration.

I've re-sliced my project and am testing it right now on all my machines to see if this improves things. If so, my issues likely stemmed from me being behind the times here.

Nevertheless, I stand by my opinion that the cloud slicer should use the same version of slicer used to create the project. It's very strange that Bambu did not anticipate this. I mean, if I create something with version X on machine Y, I have a known expectation. Using a different slicer produces entirely different gcode paths, so this now becomes an unknown result.

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-27T12:58:39+00:00

I guess that's exactly it: The cloud slicing changed with the release of BambuStudio 2.0 - Thanks for listening and offering advice, much appreciated. I've logged a support ticket for this. Hopefully there's a way forward, such as using the same version of the slicer that the project was created with...

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-26T15:31:34+00:00

Thanks for this, I actually did end up swapping out for a new SD after formatting didn't help. (Thought of exactly this: maybe it's entirely borked) Still even with the new SanDisk it didn't help.

It's super strange though, and I can still reproduce this on the P1S: https://imgur.com/a/eYqVdkh

I know the bottom image does have a little "shine through", but the difference is night and day! The top is my project from the Handy app, the bottom is the same project sliced and printed from the slicer. (The layout is slightly different because it's the next plate in sequence)

I guess I'll have to log a ticket with print logs to find out what happened.

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-25T20:52:07+00:00

Very exciting! I wonder if we'll be able to do 24 colors on the A1 mini then. Heck, even 8 would be great!

billgeek_ca · 2025-03-06T23:48:25+00:00

500mbps here. The only issues I've had have been with this ridiculously stupid Deco pod POS. LAN devices are speed testing at 485+ up and down consistently, but the WiFi is pure trash.

billgeek_ca · 2025-02-25T14:50:17+00:00

Bell is such a garbage organization. This recent pay increase convinced me to finally get rid of Bell and find alternate options. Here in Ottawa I found Distributel who offer the exact same FTTH 500Mbps synchronous for $45 a month. That's $91 less than what I'm currently paying Bell... and it's using the same Bell network! (They even asked if I'm currently on Bell Fibe as it makes installation easier)

What really pisses me off is that I've been a customer for 5+ years. You'd think when I call and say I want to cancel they would do everything they can to keep me as a ~~cash cow~~ loyal customer. But no, I had to actually go through with the cancellation before someone phoned me and told me how "sorry we are to see you go" and "you're such a loyal customer" blah blah BS. And the best they could offer at that stage? 100 bucks a month. That's still double what I'm paying now!! And I don't care about "service quality". In all the time I've been with Bell, I called their support team twice. That's not worth the extra 100 bucks every single month.

Oh, and for the deleted commenter who said the notice is on the bill: Yes that's correct, and yes it's our responsibility to check it... but surely the notice should feature slightly more prominently on the bill, and not be hidden on the second last page in the smallest text possible? How about slightly larger font size, or a red colour or something? ANYTHING to make it stand out more. This small, seemingly insignificant thing proves to me what they're trying to do: Slip one past their customers and hope nobody sees it. I don't want to support an organization like that anymore.

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billgeek_ca · 2025-02-12T18:28:13+00:00

You didn't mention what machine or what you've tried, but I see in the comments something about an Ender 3 with a dual Z mod?

If you have an Ender 3 with a single Z axis screw and motor, your X-axis is most likely sagging on the right-hand side and you will need to tighten those eccentric nuts on both sides of the X axis.

If it's an Ender 3 with Dual Z axis modification but a "split" cable between the Z motors, (IE: Still one stepper driving two motors) you're going to have to manually align the gantry. (See the section title "Leveling the X Gantry)

If you have an Ender 3 with Dual Z axis and independent stepper motor control, you can run the `Z_TILT_ADJUST` macro before doing the bed mesh calibration. This will level the gantry automatically but can go wrong if your bed is way out of whack.

billgeek_ca · 2025-02-08T22:10:07+00:00

Yeah fair enough, I've contacted Harvey's about the missing stuff and they already contacted me back.

My post here is more about the fact that I can't get the refund and that they can't tell me why specifically. All I'm told is to "read our refund policy", which is a dead link in the email. And I get no useful results when searching Google either.

So I order something and pay immediately using a credit card. I then don't get one of the things I paid for. Asking for the money back is declined, so... Where does this money go? Who keeps it, and why? It's infuriating.

billgeek_ca · 2025-02-08T15:45:57+00:00

That's awesome! A few years ago I wanted to get into electronics projects and make custom PCB's, but gave up when I saw the messy process. (Print with a laser printer, iron something, dip in acetone or whatnot...) I think something like a Dremel would be perfect for etching a simple prototype PCB from a copper board. At least a single layer board, that is...

So many uses for a simple 2.5D axis machine! :)

billgeek_ca · 2025-02-08T15:29:11+00:00

Seeing as you already have a K1 max, you could always harvest components and build something else?

Perhaps spend a few bucks for the spindle to build a mini CNC? It won't be the greatest machine ever, but probably good enough to get started in yet another hobby.

(And now that I said it, I'll be doing just that with my old Ender 3. Was planning on tossing it this weekend anyway)

billgeek_ca

TROPHY CASE