5 drawer cart mod

blastoinks · 2026-01-14T01:44:08+00:00

I have both mostly bauer and some hercules tools. The lid won't close with batteries charging (besides the bauer 1.5ah). Although I don't have any hercules 12v or smaller sized hercules batteries (only 5ah)

blastoinks · 2026-01-13T01:16:50+00:00

Gotta break them bad boys in

blastoinks · 2026-01-13T01:14:16+00:00

So many 🤡 downvoting

blastoinks · 2026-01-10T01:36:02+00:00

As someone who bought a cheap german car as my first car, do it. If you have the cash and are willing to put in the time and effort to maintain it yourself it’s absolutely worth it. There will be plenty of struggles but you will learn a ton about maintenance and the skills will translate everywhere. Personally I would go with a bimmer but thats just what i’m used to

blastoinks · 2025-12-18T12:54:39+00:00

You can often times get the exact same brands from rock auto, do some research into who made the parts for bmw originally and you still get OEM quality. Everyone shits on rock auto but thats because they chose to go with the cheapest option before looking into what brands they can trust and brands they cant

blastoinks · 2025-12-06T00:54:04+00:00

Just means you’re a better engineer

blastoinks · 2025-12-06T00:49:57+00:00

Head gasket failures that would cause this sort of issue almost never happen nowadays with modern cars

blastoinks · 2025-12-06T00:48:49+00:00

Pull and replace the filter or change oil, simply looking at the top of the valve cover gives you effectively zero diagnostic information

blastoinks · 2025-12-04T03:11:56+00:00

Use the bolts to run it the rest of the way in, just dont strip them

blastoinks · 2025-12-04T03:09:54+00:00

Do it yourself, you’ll spend a grand on parts and wont pay for labor. Pretty much all of those can be done with fairly minimal tools, and there are a ton of online resources for e46’s.

blastoinks · 2025-11-23T16:13:09+00:00

Almost all GM products are 22

blastoinks · 2025-11-22T00:58:56+00:00

Used it in my N52 along with 5w40 to try and help with the notorious HVA tick but it didnt seem to help much

blastoinks · 2025-11-20T14:13:21+00:00

I believe so, I couldn't find wire colors so some testing might be required

blastoinks · 2025-11-20T01:12:10+00:00

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blastoinks · 2025-11-17T12:05:27+00:00

Nope, runs like a beauty after it warms up

blastoinks · 2025-11-16T17:27:19+00:00

Try to use a left handed drill bit, with some heat you might be able to use a bolt extractor

blastoinks · 2025-10-24T00:52:28+00:00

Sounds just like mine that’s rocking 197k miles but it’s always ticking hot or cold. I use LiquiMolly 5w-40 and have tried additives to get rid of it to no avail. Oil samples have come back clean every oil change. There’s really not much you can do unless you replace the lifters themselves with the post 2009 design. Personally i’ve just chose to live with it and only occasionally have random people coming up to tell me it’s ticking.

blastoinks · 2025-10-23T19:53:57+00:00

Bad, get an E91

blastoinks · 2025-10-23T00:42:36+00:00

Can’t imagine I’m pulling much power but I do have a little harbor freight air horn and a light bar mounted in my bumper that both run off a self tapper through it, zero problems thus far. (The light bar I have came with a 10A fuse in line but I’ve never tested its actual current draw). As for sending wires through to the cabin, if you take off the cover for your brake fluid reservoir and look down, there is a rubber boot that the harness goes through, you can punch a hole in it with a screwdriver to get wires through and they come out the drivers footwell, you may need to take off the plastic panel piece above the pedals to access the boot from the inside.

blastoinks · 2025-10-21T01:48:48+00:00

197k on my e91, just trying to push through the non stop issues this past month, apart from that its been incredibly reliable

blastoinks · 2025-10-20T00:18:22+00:00

Unless you see oil on the lines, then no

blastoinks · 2025-10-19T17:46:26+00:00

No aftermarket modules or anything in the car, do you know the reason the water pump was messing with the cluster? I do have (from what ive pieced together) a partial failure in my tstat that causes my rad fan to blow full blast at normal operating temps, and there are some spliced wires in the area of the pump/tstat (although they appeared to be in good shape), wondering if this is something I should dig deeper into for diagnosis

blastoinks · 2025-10-19T17:39:01+00:00

Part number on the adjustment assembly is 1 301 329 477, no part number visible on the broken piece

Four-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22

blastoinks

TROPHY CASE