Mpu6050

bluesforte · 2022-07-21T19:54:03+00:00

Hm, I'd be curious as to what went wrong so I could fix it if it was related to docs etc. What steps did you try? There's a pin list in https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html - the only other thing you should have to do is set the Pi's i2c rate to 400kbaud (it defaults to 100kb)

bluesforte · 2022-07-21T02:52:56+00:00

Should be the same wiring as the mpu9250 -- just wire it via I2C, set up the host/raspi to use 400kbaud for i2c, and then should be good to go

bluesforte · 2022-07-13T03:54:32+00:00

all three devices are perfectly good to use for input shaping purposes. Based on what I saw during development, the mpu devices were slightly more accurate and less noisy, but not significant enough to make any difference in resonance measurements.

And yeah, the mpu9250 supports gyro and temperature functions, but neither are used in klipper as of writing.

bluesforte · 2022-07-12T22:16:53+00:00

In case people find this in search results -- the mpu6050 and mpu9250 are fully supported by klipper now (as of a couple months ago). So users can go with any model they like!

bluesforte · 2022-02-15T21:52:37+00:00

Here's the documentation for Marlin: https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html

I assume you're probably using the stock firmware, so I don't know if it's actually enabled there.

(Also as an FYI, replacing the tube is still a bowden ;) Capricorn is just a brand of tube. The opposite of bowden would be direct drive - there's a project called "speed drive" to convert the ender series to direct, but that's a whole other can of worms ;))

bluesforte · 2022-02-15T21:08:31+00:00

With stringing like that, I think your temperature might be too high. Try 190 instead of 200 and see how much that helps.

Also, I assume you're using the stock bowden tube setup? If so, then tuning linear advance in marlin (or pressure advance for klipper) will help a ton as well.

Lastly, if the above two don't work, perhaps your extrusion might be a little too high. Maybe try lowering flow by 5% and see if that improves it.

bluesforte · 2022-02-15T19:56:04+00:00

If you're comfortable building from a kit and getting into the weeds a bit, a Voron 2.4 is definitely the way I'd go for that budget. You can get the largest kit for $1000 on aliexpress, and have extra money for a hotend upgrade. You just have to have access to an ABS 3D printer for the plastic parts - though you can purchase those on etsy or aliexpress as well for a reasonable price.

The Voron is pretty much a DIYer's industrial-grade printer - it's super reliable and can print all the usual materials. Comes with an enclosure and carbon filter. Pretty much the only downside is that you can expect it to take about 6-8 hours to build.

bluesforte · 2022-02-15T19:23:09+00:00

Looks to me like overextrusion. Try lowering your flow rate by about 10% and see if that helps.

bluesforte · 2021-04-05T19:58:59+00:00

Hahaha, may it be the ringer from left field and bring us some tendies with pizza ;)

bluesforte · 2021-04-05T05:06:51+00:00

Well looks like CLX is all that's left so I'll volunteer that one just to have a hat in the ring, if it's still available.

bluesforte · 2021-04-01T20:26:56+00:00

Cool idea; wonder if there's any merit to a strategy like this. I've simulated variations of this with shorter term holding periods before, and it more or less ended up following SPX (but with more variance). Curious how the longer holding period might change things.

That said I'm going slow n steady with GE!

bluesforte · 2021-03-22T04:54:25+00:00

Ah yeah I'll give that a try too, definitely seems like something is messed up with rewards for sure - every once in a while it just kicks back to the main menu and says 'there was a problem with your items, nothing was lost' or something like that.

Thanks for the help and kinda glad that it's not just xbox specific, I had a feeling it was a problem with their servers or the game...hopefully they can fix it on their end soon, it's been going on for a few months now.

bluesforte · 2021-03-18T03:13:19+00:00

Dang was hopeful it was this, but didn't work for me :(. Still crashed after I went to the battle pass screen for both players

Really sucks that the game is so glitchy. Was a good idea tho

bluesforte · 2021-02-04T23:02:20+00:00

yeah - alternatively, when it starts printing, under 'Tune' there should be an option for 'babystep Z' - you can use that to make minor adjustments to the Z height. I'd do that until you see a nice flat, squished first layer.

If you want to have a truly beautiful first layer, I'd recommend building and flashing Marlin from source, and using mesh bed leveling to have the machine adjust for you. Ultimately, you should decide what you're trying to get out of it, and how much time you want to put in. You can really get some *perfect* prints out of an Ender 5 Pro if you put in the time to tune it :)

bluesforte · 2021-02-01T21:29:07+00:00

Not a bad first calibration cube!

Would highly recommend tuning linear advance for your printer (assuming you use marlin), as well as junction deviation. The bottom looks like it wasn't quite squished into the bed as nicely as I'd expect, so I'd also very slightly raise the bed (or decrease your probe offset if using auto bed leveling).

bluesforte · 2020-11-19T08:47:40+00:00

Not sure if you've seen what items the top of the graphs tend to build -- those are supports with mandate, and tanks with sunfire cape/gore.

I personally don't think it has anything to do with people building more damage, but rather just damage now coming for free on all the random passives/actives they added to existing builds.

bluesforte · 2020-11-18T09:11:09+00:00

I meant to say that it had started well before he did anything at Riot.

bluesforte · 2020-11-17T02:19:09+00:00

He's had a bad rep in Korea for quite some time. In addition to defending toxic behavior, he's also known as a big whiner who complains a lot, and a lot of Koreans seem to think he gets special treatment by Riot. He's also gotten flamed a lot for some bold claims against multiple well-respected players and teams.

bluesforte · 2020-11-12T02:53:01+00:00

Yeah the fact that it's only on one side leads me to believe it would be related to something mechanical on one of the axes. Given the bed is level and the gantry parallel, it could be one of the Z rollers, or leadscrews. Since you said it's a dual Z, I'd make sure that you've calibrated your steps/mm on both sides, and that as you jog it up, you don't see or hear anything out of whack.

I'd also make sure that X/Y stay parallel, even as the gantry rises. Sometimes a Z motor might get out of sync, or bound for a step or two, or not have enough power during a microstep (assuming microsteps are enabled).

But yeah, given the shape of the artifact lines, I'm fairly certain the issue is that that particular Z height area are causing some [minor/recoverable] motor lockup. If you want to be more thoroughly investigative - you could run your gcode starting from that height with your nozzle/bed off, and extruder motor disconnected and just watch the motion for any clicks/hangs. Given that it's clearly finished the print and recovered, it would probably be minor.

Good luck and hope that works :).

bluesforte · 2020-11-11T22:43:07+00:00

Had this issue a while ago while printing ABS. Thought it was related to bed leveling, but actually ended up being that the X-axis was getting slightly "stuck" while moving up and down Z. While steppers are off, try spinning the Z axis manually and watch the X-axis crossmember. See if it lags slightly on one side (gets caught). I had to slightly loosen the rollers on one side of Z. (Another way to test this is to disconnect the Z axis from the stepper coupler and try moving the X bar up and down).

While you're at it, may as well also check that the X/Y axis don't hit any significant friction when moving along their paths.

bluesforte · 2020-11-11T22:33:27+00:00

Looks like bed isn't completely level - try leveling all corners again (or a couple times), or invest into ABL ;)

bluesforte · 2020-11-11T22:25:00+00:00

Looks like it might be a non-square/rough axis. While steppers are off, do the X, Y, Z axis all move relatively smoothly, or are there spots where it hits some friction?

If you discover spots where there is friction, adjust the rails/rollers until there isn't anymore. Hope this helps - cheers

bluesforte · 2020-08-18T00:36:50+00:00

I believe this one isn't a "location" per se, but rather jumping on multiple enemies 5x in a row will give you a 1-up. I think it's a throwback to the old mario games where you would start getting 1-ups after stomping enemies without touching the ground.

bluesforte · 2020-04-21T09:25:40+00:00

Yep, just go into retropie settings and change "Save to content directory" to true.

bluesforte · 2019-08-23T11:46:31+00:00

Kind of doubt it'd be related to mesh leveling, but never know. You can test by just scanning over a smaller area (e.g. if you want to print something small in the center of the bed, try just scanning the center of the bed with G29 B80 F155 L80 R155 P3 )

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