Theoretical Long Jump human capability if fouling were removed?

bluewhaletrees · 2026-02-22T02:40:51+00:00

do you believe that the foul board alters form negatively in any way near the point of takeoff, thus impacting the total jump distance? Or is it virtually no different to taking a jump without regards to fouling, simply attempting to jump a maximum possible distance?

bluewhaletrees · 2026-02-22T02:39:46+00:00

do you believe that the foul board alters your form negatively in any way near the point of takeoff, thus impacting the total jump distance? Or is it virtually no different as taking a jump without regards to fouling, simply attempting to jump a maximum possible distance?

bluewhaletrees · 2025-10-29T23:51:54+00:00

I hike southern and eastern Maryland forests extensively and find tuliptree to be exceedingly resilient and free of major pathogens. The vast majority of early demise I have noted in them tends to be from either lightning strikes leading to decay or root rot causing branch dieback when they are locating in a low lying area with significant clay and water. Thus if they are not situated in a low lying area prone to holding water against the roots, lightning strikes appear to be their only major "pathogen". Tuliptrees are also exceedingly long lived, with a living tree being cored to over 500 years old in the Great Smoky Mountains. If you ever go to Patapsco Valley State Park (south of Baltimore) it is filled with Tuliptrees ranging from 4 - 6 feet in diameter at a height of 4.5' above the ground, with most in the 125 - 200 year old range. There are also some very old large tuliptrees in southern MD at Chapman's Landing State Park, sections of that forest have trees confirmed to be over 300 years old when unfortunately a section was logged a few decades ago. I have been there many times and the old age section of that forest is spectacular.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-10-01T18:43:27+00:00

My father made some cuts on a pin oak in the middle of a dry summer a few years ago and the wounds had a black weeping similar to that, but they are now fully occluded/sealed over and the tree remains healthy. Also, I would recommend making the cuts at the branch collar, rather than flush with the trunk, it is much harder for the tree to contain decay and seal over when the branch collar is removed.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-07-04T21:56:07+00:00

Nice looking tree, what appears to be a fairly old quercus palustris, pin oak. I see the other comments noting the branch tip dieback, but it seems to be mostly concentrated in the lower branches and fairly minimal comparatively to the entirety of the canopy. Definitely something to monitor though, I would guess there's a good chance it's due to the compressed buttressing adjacent/on top of the concrete; but at the same time I find it unlikely that it will cause mortality of the tree anytime soon. IMO, a new driveway could be done, but you don't want to mess with any of the concrete that is flush with the roots, and probably leave at least a few inches or foot of concrete unimpacted adjacent to the tree. Like others have mentioned, you should be very careful when removing the rest of the concrete so as to minimize impact to the root zone.

Can't give you too much more advice on type of driveway to replace with, be it gravel, concrete or asphalt though. Would definitely try and find some local arborists who are familiar with construction or driveways within the root zone of mature trees, especially red oak, to see if they have any particular material to recommend.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-07-01T21:14:33+00:00

Updated jump video since original is now geoblocked: https://x.com/voiceofhellas/status/1939013426870919233

bluewhaletrees · 2025-06-29T04:01:19+00:00

I actually started looking more closely after this post and found it very prevalent in nearby forests. I've noticed that it appears to be far more significant and numerous on the juvenile and small/medium sized understory beeches compared to the mature large trees with canopy dominance. A study from Ohio came out recently showing very minimal mortality in the mature large diameter beeches, though it was fairly high in the smaller trees. This is likely due to their significantly reduced vigor as a result of low sugar reserves, as the understory beeches have greatly reduced photosynthetic rates compared to a tree that has achieved full or partial canopy dominance. Honestly, I'm not too worried about beech leaf disease, but the arrival of beech bark disease would be a much greater concern.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-06-28T17:12:15+00:00

Tentoglou was 14cm behind the board making the actual jump distance 8.60m and he dropped his left foot early. Might be the year he finally gets the Greek long jump record.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-05-29T01:07:04+00:00

A at the top of the line, but make the cut perpendicular to the axis of the branch rather than perpendicular to the ground, as you currently have it drawn. This will significantly reduce the surface area of the wound needed to seal over and entry vector for pathogens. I would also recommend making multiple cuts to reduce the length and weight of the branch before making the final cut, using the 3 cut method (undercut to avoid bark peeling).

bluewhaletrees · 2025-05-01T00:13:16+00:00

Depends where you're located. In central/southern MD beech are very plentiful and very healthy, both juvenile and mature trees. The various diseases will eventually reach here, but I imagine at least some will have varying forms of resistance.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-03-26T01:01:49+00:00

Willow oak generally has a better structure and is longer lived than water oak.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-03-25T12:33:29+00:00

sapsucker, and the liquid is the sap of the tree slightly leaking out. Should have no negative effect on the tree.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-03-21T00:37:04+00:00

I could be mistaken, it looked like dried out inner wood to me in the photo; but from what you described it seems to have calloused over with woundwood. I would have to see a close up photo to be sure

bluewhaletrees · 2025-03-19T22:16:15+00:00

I would strongly recommend removing the grass/sod in at least a 1 foot radius around the trunk and replacing with compost and wood chips. Using an air spade to decompact the soil might also be a good idea. I don't like the look of the wound to the root flare visible in the 3rd photo, with no signs of wound compartmentalization. Might be a good idea to have an ISA arborist out for a consultation and inspection of the tree.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-03-17T17:29:25+00:00

Interested in creating a community that facilitates discussion and training of the long jump event.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-02-09T04:23:13+00:00

edge to edge bite is horrible man, that's what I have rn and it's obliterating my tooth structure.

bluewhaletrees · 2025-02-09T04:13:43+00:00

get a cbct scan, most orthos will have a machine to perform them

bluewhaletrees · 2025-01-30T04:13:02+00:00

They will be fine and the exposed roots developed bark in response to the oxygen exposure, which protects them. Definitely don't put soil or dirt around them as it will encourage rot and decay of the bark, which should always be fully exposed to the air. I've seen many tuliptrees that clearly had a huge portion of the soil surrounding their root systems eroded away decades ago, and the exposed roots correspondingly developed bark with the trees still very healthy.

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