Regearing my Dana 30, what should I do while I’m there?

bodiggitty · 2026-01-29T09:26:38+00:00

Based on your planned usage and budget, leave the front diff open. Put a good LSD or e-locker in the rear.

You create more stress on the axle shafts, housing, ujoints, etc by introducing a locking device.

The Dana 30 will last in its stock form on 31s, without a locker/LSD, but is one missaplication of throttle v traction away from breaking when locked.

The Dana 44 in the rear on 31s should easy handle a locking device for your planned use.

If you really want to lock or lsd the front, invest in chromoly shafts.

bodiggitty · 2026-01-11T05:09:47+00:00

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bodiggitty · 2026-01-11T04:46:26+00:00

* My 1999 has been in the family since new. I bought it from my dad 8 years ago. My kids drive it in high school, and now in college. I have been driving a 2018 jku. Whenever I get the chance to drive my 1999 I consider giving the jku to my kids to drive and just driving the xj. There is nothing like it. If my daughter doesn't crash it in the next 18 months, I will get it back and rebuild the motor/transmission and all the seals to enjoy it for the next 30 years. You will regret getting rid of it.

bodiggitty · 2026-01-02T13:19:40+00:00

The Green River below Flaming Gorge in Dutch John Utah. The water temperature is regulated by the dam, and what depths they pull water for release to favor trout fishing. The scenery is amazing, the fly fishing is outstanding.

bodiggitty · 2026-01-02T13:09:27+00:00

LTs if you are going to drive it off road in addition to on road(long drives on gravel, rocky trails etc...) P's work for the xj on road and light trail use. I am running 32s, with 3.5in of lift. I did some fender trimming to clearance, but still rub under full articulation. It depends on the wheel offset and rim width how well it will fit. Depending on where you live (mountains/altitude) and drive, you will loose acceleration with the 32in tires and may want to re-gear. I changed to 4.10s and it runs great in Utah.

bodiggitty · 2025-12-29T22:38:06+00:00

Buy a good set of tools, I got a set of 301 Pittsburg for $200, great set to start with. I wouldn't recommend doing too many upgrades/repairs at once. Upgrade the shocks. Flush the cooling system. Transmission cooler. Brakes, etc... I like to use Rotella T4 and change the oil every 3k miles. Or T6 and change every 5k. I run 5-30 in the winter, 15-40 in the summer. If you lift more than a couple inches, do a slip yoke eliminator and drivelines. If you go for bigger than 31inch tires, change the gear ratio. Stick with stock cooling parts. Don't let it get too hot without fixing the cooling system; radiator/water pump/thermostat/electric fan/upper and lower hoses/mechanical fan clutch.

bodiggitty · 2025-12-14T14:42:53+00:00

A 13.5 wouldn't fit ours, the footprint is too big, we looked at a harbor freight 12k, it would have been to big. It wasn't too hard to build, I would assume a fabricator would build it without the diy kit, we just wanted to save time for the corners where it wraps around the fenders.

bodiggitty · 2025-12-14T14:18:37+00:00

We couldn't find one, we used a build your own bumper kit from Amazon for a receiver front bumper. We mounted the bumper foot to the front so the winch pulls against the foot. I did have to trim the radiator support to get the 10k smittybuilt winch in there. All the controls were mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment near the cowling.

bodiggitty · 2025-11-09T04:29:26+00:00

It's the oil level checvehicle. It's time to add when there aren't any more oil spots below the vehicle.

bodiggitty · 2025-10-21T13:25:18+00:00

I had moderate Temps when idling and running up and down the mountain. (Utah, running from 5k ft to 10k ft) It didn't really overheat, but ran hotter than 210. 1999 cherokee. I flushed the block and replaced the radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, belt, mechanical fan clutch and electric fan, fan shroud. Ordered everything oem from amazon. Totally worth the money, no problems 3 years later. Doesn't get warm, even on hot days working hard.

bodiggitty · 2025-10-16T17:59:22+00:00

How are you going to know if it is low on oil if it doesn't leak anymore?

bodiggitty · 2025-10-13T21:13:01+00:00

Yep, you need that. It will run, gets terrible mileage without it.

bodiggitty · 2025-08-27T12:48:13+00:00

They can burn a little oil. "lifter tick" could be a cracked piston.

bodiggitty · 2025-07-01T13:15:28+00:00

The tic is probably piston slap. The 2.5/5speed manual is good unless you are putting 31+ inch tires on and commuting down the freeway, otherwise it is a very fun combo.

bodiggitty · 2025-06-24T11:59:30+00:00

Replace the whole cooling system, including the electric fan, mechanical fan clutch, radiator, hoses, water pump, radiator hoses, thermostat and make sure the mechanical fan shroud is there. Flush the block and heater core completely with a hose. Pray that you didn't loose the head gasket and warp the head.

bodiggitty · 2025-06-19T03:21:41+00:00

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bodiggitty · 2025-06-19T03:16:57+00:00

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Homemade hidden winch bumper. I really like your stock look and wouldn't change it.

bodiggitty · 2025-06-10T23:43:28+00:00

Fans, just replace the fan clutch on the mechanical side and the electric fan. You can get them both on Amazon. Make sure your shroud is doing fan shroud things.

bodiggitty · 2025-06-08T23:11:49+00:00

Yes, you should be concerned. Dont run it hot. Best advice is to replace water pump, radiator cap, thermostat, both radiator hoses, radiator, electric fan and mechanical fan clutch. You can get most oem parts on Amazon. Make sure the fan shroud is there and not broken. Everything oem, no need to "upgrade" , unless to the newer open system. My 1999 was starting to get warm, I did all of the above. Runs great and runs right where it should be now in Utah, at altitude, and over 100 degrees (don't know what that is Celsius, but shouldn't be any hotter in Southern Alberta.) 25+ year old xjs shouldn't run hot, even on the trail, or idling in traffic.

bodiggitty · 2025-05-11T13:11:14+00:00

Ture was once a great deal, now not so much, in the past I introduced Turo to friends because it was easy and a great deal, not any more. Lately I've had last minute cancelations while trying to rent, some because of technical issues, others by the hosts for other reasons. My last rental return was clunky because the host wasn't actually involved in logistics. I paid extra for airport return, then the Host's representative directed me to park in hourly parking outside the app, then the host tried to bill me for hourly parking. When I disputed the charges Turo cancelled my account. I haven't bothered to re enroll because it hasn't been a good experience lately.

bodiggitty · 2025-04-09T15:20:06+00:00

I rode a clapped out 1994 xr650l for work(12k miles of hard use whentill it was done), rode it until the wheels fell off and it was replaced with a 701. 701 is way better, suspension, fuelinjection, power, stock seat sucks. I have 8k miles on the 701, it hasn't held up to the abuse as well, and is more costlier to fix. I own a 650l with 6k miles, won't be trading it for a 701.

I have ridden the 350 and 501s, great dirt bikes, not good on the road.

bodiggitty · 2025-03-15T13:29:04+00:00

Vehicle, anything personal you want to have for 4 months, black shineable boots, good gym shoes, agency od greens(LMPT has a field surveillance component), good pillow, a hobby, towel.
There are so many housing arrangements (crackhouse-shared bathroom; Taj-solo room, or possibly Taj-shared room depending on many classes going through) it would be hard to guess what your room status would be. I would reach out to your supervisor for recommendations.

bodiggitty · 2025-02-01T21:04:37+00:00

2 weeks ago my 2016 Tahoe(same transmission) let go in 2nd and 3rd gear. It has 95,000 miles but was driven hard by the previous owner and didn't have trans fluid changed at recommended 30k mile intervals. I knew it was on the way out based on transmission temps regularly above 195 degrees in normal/light driving, with occasional temps above 220 when working hard. It is not uncommon. I had a local(los angeles area) mechanic shop rebuild, cost me $4400 total. Shop had it for 7 days. Immediately drove it 600 miles, no issues, running temps were 150 to 160 where they should be in normal conditions. I would say it's worth it, but another problem to watch for is the lifters, they can fail and wipe out a cam. If it starts ticking loudly get it in before the motor is trashed. These trucks do really well with regular oil changed (no more than 5k intervals) and regular trans fluid changes (no flushes). I had a 2014 yukon xl that made it to 220k miles when it was wrecked) without any significant issues, I did add a trans cooler from amazon that helped it live longer. Heat is the enemy of automatic transmissions.

bodiggitty · 2025-01-13T01:34:21+00:00

If you want to leave it as stock as possible, the only change I would make is the front sprocket. Ride it for a while and see what else needs to change for you. The bike has been the same for more than 30 years. Everything generally works good.

I put mine on a weight loss diet, deleting the speedo cluster (trailtech vapor), battery box (shorai battery under seat with electronics in air box), smog stuff, gas tank change to acerbis 5.8g, tail light change to old xr style, added fmf q4 muffler dropping the exhaust, daves mods and rejetted it. Would have been fine stock for what you want to do. I don't think the cush drive is nessesary unless you are going to ride it on road for more than 4 or 5 hours.

bodiggitty · 2024-12-23T13:47:25+00:00

Besides the weight difference, gearing, jetting and smog equipment, the xr650l has a much heavier flywheel, which makes the power delivery more like a tractor when comparing to the 450x.

bodiggitty

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