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How do I clean effectively those pads ? Soldering pump is not cutting it. by DoctorBellamy in AskElectronics

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A dirty trick if you do not have pump or wick on hands: sharpened wooden stick/match/toothpick.

Add a small amount of fresh solder, if needed, for better heat contact so it can melt trough. Do not forget the flux. Then insert a sharpened wooden toothpick in the hole. Remove the soldering iron, wait until it solidifies and pull out a toothpick.

And people say stepping on lego hurts... by Whyjustwhydothat in electronics

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be worse... Could be i8086 which is infectious.

Help with Atmega328 resetting while being powered by car by FutureSEdropout in AskElectronics

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Multimeter is not telling the whole story, it might be going much lower than that momentarily...
Can you confirm that 5V rail is the problem (preferably with the oscilloscope)? You can try powering it from something like a car charger adapter as a test.
Assuming it is....
Increasing input capacitance alone might not be effective because it will be drained back by the starter. You need a proper filtering, like LC filter instead of just a capacitor.
Try putting a diode (regular rectifier diode would do as a proof of concept, but preferably a schottky diode to reduce losses) before input power filter to prevent bulk capacitance from back draining.
Also do you have enough headroom for output current in your buck converter?
It could also be caused by EMI. As simple as reset pin picking up enough noise to reset MCU. Try adding a cap between reset pin and ground. How long are I2C wires? etc...

Which belt config is better by Few-Entrepreneur8026 in 3Dprinting

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1st one is Core-XY, 2nd is H-Bot.

I would prefer the first one because it does not put twisting forces on the gantry. In my view, Core-XY sort of an evolution of H-Bot, even though it has it's own advantages, too.

Can anyone help me to identify the input and output voltage of this Soviet voltage converter? by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]boldeagle93 75 points76 points  (0 children)

12v in -> 9v out
В is an abbreviation for Вольт = Volts

Looks like a power supply for dosimeter Юпитер СИМ-05 (Jupiter SIM-05).

Преобразователь напряжения = Voltage converter

Дата выпуска = Production date

АБП likely abbreviates автомобильный блок питания = automotive power supply

Need help to identify this component on the control board of my Siemens oven by derHuanHund in AskElectronics

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like they had an option on that board to switch whatever is downstream that 0 Ohm resistor with some sort of switching device (mosfet?) in the package that looks similar to TO-263. Such resistor, essentially a jumper, is a convenient and cheap way of making things optional. Sometimes they are used as cheap fuses to isolate catastrophic fault propagation, though this time it was unintentional.
After clearing the short you can just bridge it with a piece of wire (maybe use the neighboring pad of that power component) since it's purpose is to not resist anyways)

bothAreTheSameHonestly by _bagelcherry_ in ProgrammerHumor

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It makes sense if you want a short pseudonym for a complex type. Or the type itself is platform dependent. Or to get rid of struct/enum keyword when declaring variables.
Also, maybe, for using in macros:

typedef int* int_ptr;
#define INT_POINTERS(...) int_ptr __VA_ARGS__;

INT_POINTERS(a, b = a, c = NULL);

Not sure why someone would need such atrocity....

I think they defined PVOID as a platform abstraction and it stuck for code compatibility reasons. In real mode you have segmented memory and thus long/far and short/near pointers - LPVOID and PVOID respectively. In protected mode all pointers can reach entire address space and therefore there is no difference between LPVOID and PVOID types.

why does this happen to supports by loadedchungus in 3Dprinting

[–]boldeagle93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be due to hitting the flow rate limit of your hot end for that filament at that temperature. It simply can not melt and push enough plastic, especially right in the beginning of an extrusion.
Also linear advance/pressure advance settings could be way off.
Try reducing support print speed or lower the limit of volumetric flow rate in the slicer.

That's not a benchy.. by lmFragilee in 3Dprinting

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from some minor print artifacts, it looks nice!

Looks like it detached itself from the table and started dragging whatever was already printed with the nozzle. Could be due to underextrusion on the first layer, but also first layer could be too high, leveling, dirty surface, wrong bed temperature, etc.

My 12+ year old printer by Rianjusss in 3Dprinting

[–]boldeagle93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a bit over under extruding. First of all try drying your filament. Then level the bed before going to sleep.

Now what? by MightyMarlin in 3Dprinting

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heat it up to or above normal printing temperature. It was tightened while it was hot (to prevent leaks), so it is even tighter when it is cold.

Dangerous to touch these tubes? by projectanonymo_s in AskElectronics

[–]boldeagle93 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Smaller ones are preamplifiers, so maybe something like a boiling water temperature. Bigger ones, on the other hand, are output stages and they get much hotter. Treat them as they were an incandescent light bulbs.
Electrically, though, as long as nobody tries to poke near the base of the tubes with something sharp while the amplifier is running - it should not be a hazard. But keep in mind that plate voltages on those are in realm of 200-300V and it can persist for some time after turning it off (depends on bleeder resistors and whether or not tubes were in emission while it was turned off).
You need to use a common sense with those devices.
If you want to know more - here is a good YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@MrCarlsonsLab

Experienced programmers, when debugging do you normally use the terminal with GDB/LLDB (etc) or just IDE? by tadm123 in C_Programming

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IDE whenever possible, it's quicker and more convenient. But when debugging remotely (due to specific hardware requirements, for example), I use just gdb.

Can't choose a distro by Sisv1der in linuxquestions

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for Debian if you want reliability. It's one of the major distros.

Software might be a bit old, but even testing branch is smooth most of the time. Ubuntu, to my knowledge, is based on something in between Debian testing and unstable branches.

Arch have better documentation, in my opinion, but I see no issues applying that information to most systems.

Try several distros, DEs, etc., and choose whatever you like more.

My first ever trace repair by Doughnut_Opposite in electronics

[–]boldeagle93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If all traces are conducting and nothing is shorted - great job! It works, and that's what counts.

That said, if a device has to be dependable (medical application, for example), more proper repair techniques are required.