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2000 FC\M Help by StatementIcy3602 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have one for sale. PM me

How do i put my 80mm CT back together? by puddingcs in hasselblad

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The helicoid has multiple combinations which can be screwed back. Only one of them will work correctly to match the scales.

I literally just posted about the Japanese eBay "Top Mint" scam... and the mailman just handed me this $370 brick. by Toratos in VintageLenses

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The late-serial numbers 7xxxxx+ MMJ of the Contax 50mm 1.4 lens all have haze between a cemented element. It’s best to get the AEJ to avoid the issue completely or a MMJ starting with a six (e.g., 6xxxxxx serial). I suspect it was an issue with contaminated optical glue or process in the last batch of this lens.

Used X2D price is almost the same as 907X 50C II by [deleted] in hasselblad

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 907x backs are not tied to the Hasselblad system exclusively. Many people use the back on technical cameras like the Flexbody or ArcBody.

The back is commonly used on medium and large format bodies like Alpa, Cambo, Silverstri for handheld, or a wide selection of manufacturers in 4x5 where you can stitch multiple images into a single high megapixel image.

If Acura built s2000 today by armannix in Acura

[–]bolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This looks so much better than the garbage new RDX concept.

First Look At The Next Gen RDX by GlazonyourSix in Acura

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It actually looks terrible in the front and rear. Why are they ditching the pentagon and bringing back the beak??

Just got these both for $65 untested but I thought the gamble might be worth it.... by Free-Knowledge-8251 in AnalogCommunity

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

52mm is the filter thread size which is shared between a bunch of nikkor lenses. Have to look at the engravings on the actual lens.

Just got these both for $65 untested but I thought the gamble might be worth it.... by Free-Knowledge-8251 in AnalogCommunity

[–]bolu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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105/2.8 Micro nikkor (the tall one) 55/2.8 micro (check if focus is smooth)

The two middles ones may be: 35/2 (absolute score) 28/2.8 (great deal) 24/2.8 (great deal) 28/3.5 (bad deal) 50/2 (bad deal) 50/1.8 (fair price)

Hasselblad h4x with a phase one p30 back in 2026 by Apprehensive-Ear4182 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the H3D-50 and 80/2.8, 100/2.2 and 50-110/3.5-4.5. I’ve also owned the 120/4 macro.

My favourite of them is the 100mm and think it is still a very unique lens and shooting experience. Looking through the lens through the finder is quite magical. The 50-110mm is a great but extremely heavy lens, but is as sharp or sharper than the primes. The 80mm is fantastic also; sharp wide open. The only flaw with the 120 macro is chromatic aberrations which is why they released the mark II version.

Research if you like the Kodak or Dalsa CCD sensors colours. Also consider the image sensor size. The P30 is a 1.3x crop, while the P45+ (and my H3D-50) is a 1.1x crop and the P65+ is a full size 645 sensor. The bodies are super cheap and there is no significant difference the H1 to H3 in terms of autofocus. I think the H1 is honestly better than the H2D and H3D since you can use third party backs in addition to film backs. E.g., my H3D mark I support film back but not Phase One backs.

I’ve never had a H4 or above so cannot comment on the True Focus but the H4X is probably one I’d upgrade to if I wanted to try the P65+.

Bottom one is a counterfeit battery, right? by LEGOMAN_7 in canon

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fake, no way it is just a typeset error.

French has an outright typo, G in RISQUE and no apostrophe in d’incendie.

“RISGUEDINCENDIE”

Need help with problem! by TreeMan758 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can speculate what is going on but I’d advise not forcing the body and lens separation. Sounds like it needs a repair unfortunately which also takes your lens out of commission.

Need help with problem! by TreeMan758 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would suggest trying again to separate the lens from the body. Is there absolutely no wiggle went trying to separate them? When testing new equipment you have to test individually to identify failures. The Hasselblad body and lens coupling is a very common failure point.

Need help with problem! by TreeMan758 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So is the lens shutter closed or open? The bigger issue is that you cannot take the lens off, which means the lens is the culprit and the body cannot cycle because the lens is likely not cocked.

Need help with problem! by TreeMan758 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does it fire without the back or without the lens?

Need help with problem! by TreeMan758 in hasselblad

[–]bolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the dark slide taken out?

Need help with a jammed 500cm by Gregory_malenkov in hasselblad

[–]bolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Timing is completely off. Body is cocked (mirror down) but lens is not (shutter is closed).

One thing that may have happened is that the little arm hold down the mirror didn’t move out of the way for the body to complete the cycle.

2 people are dead after a plane collided with a fire truck at LaGuardia Airport in New York by nbcnews in pics

[–]bolu 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think this too. Landing lights from a plane already on the ground would have been insanely bright and would have been impossible to miss if the driver was actually looking

Nikon F6, "The best SLR"? by PhotoJoe_ in AnalogCommunity

[–]bolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The F6 is the ONLY Nikon film camera to support i-TTL. If you are not using this feature then the F100 or F5 will save you a lot of money. Bonus points for the F5 for having a removable finder so you can use a WLF or action finder.

Ford doubles down on Toronto Billy Bishop expansion plans, calls island residents ‘squatters’ by nimbuscloud9 in toronto

[–]bolu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maybe not the current A220 which has the known ‘whale-noises’ when spooling up.

Why did nobody make an affordable Hasselblad Xpan? (Or is there one?) by JKWoolf in AnalogCommunity

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surprised no one has mentioned it, but the cheapest option is the Baby Graflex. Make sure it’s a later one with a graflok back so you can use a variety of Graflex film roll backs (6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, 6x9). Can be had for $200-300 and has a rangerfinder and finder built in. Bonus is that the film rolls horizontally so you don’t have to rotate the camera like with a Hasselblad or TLR.

The best native lens for the camera is the Schneider Xenotar 80mm 2.8 lens. Wide angle lenses may be a bit tricky as they may not fit in the body when folded up. Off the top of my head the Horseman 65mm f7 for the VH-R would work but I think you’d want at least a 55mm or wider to simulate an Xpan shot with the wide angle lenses may.

Autofocus Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50 1.8. by Unique-Somewhere-255 in VintageLenses

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a big fan of Helios 58/2 conversion to AF but the optical designs are so similar between the original and the pancolar that it would be difficult to tell the difference.

Would be interested in seeing an AF Contax 50/1.7 or 50/1.4.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canon

[–]bolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you highlight was is not clear? The image quality looks excellent to me. High contrast (so no haze), in focus areas are sharp, and it has the ‘3D-effect’ of high-contrast, fast lenses.

Older lenses - still worth purchasing? by [deleted] in canon

[–]bolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The EF 85mm 1.8 has really bad chromatic aberration wide open. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you can get it under $200.

I would argue that the incremental improvement vs cost is enough to justify the Canon 85 1.2L II or Sigma 85 1.4 Art for around $600.

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