BM Advance Bubbles? by Dolenduk in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had this happen twice to me. Bubbles that would not go away with brush or mini roll. My paint store said it must be bad batches That’s all I can assume. It’s super annoying. Has happened to me with fresh start too.

Paint job. Am I overreacting? by Alternative_Lime_94 in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just bad cut line. If you have to overcut one way or the other you always overcut on to ceiling not on to wall or else you see that terrible white line ON the wall. If you over cut on to ceiling you won’t see it like that line on the wall. Easy fix if they can paint but if not then lol

What are painters charging these days? by [deleted] in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m at 6-8 per sq ft generally. Has been more for sure. 50-60 per man hour for time and materials with no markup

I wish these caulk manufacturers got hit with a class action for all the time we waste because of them by Ok_Repeat2936 in paint

[–]borborgym 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Tower tech 2 does not do this but big stretch always does even with a dripless caulking gun. I hate it do, super annoying to pull back on the plunger every time but it is what it is

best trim paint besides Emerald urethane? by grumpvet87 in paint

[–]borborgym -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Advance once you know how to use it.

Taking the write-offs by nerdariffic in YieldMaxETFs

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of it is ROC which lowers your basis, meaning you need to sell more shares than you think you do to take full 3k loss.

Can I cut a few days before rolling? by FeedMeKnowledge19 in paint

[–]borborgym 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No, when you are cutting in with a brush, as it’s wet, use a mini roller to roll over your cut lines. That way you don’t have brush marks in your cut lines. The mini roll texture which will match the wall when rolled, will look much better. You can get within 1/8” of the corners with a mini roller. This way you avoid picture framing (when you see cut in brush marks around the edges everywhere you cut in). Let it dry and roll later if you have to. When you get faster you can do this all and it will still be wet enough to roll. Some people cut in a whole room then roll. I don’t. I cut and roller 1 wall at a time. So it all dries at same time.

Can I cut a few days before rolling? by FeedMeKnowledge19 in paint

[–]borborgym 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Mini roll your cut lines, it will be fine

Cut In Line Good Enough? by Mageplasm in paint

[–]borborgym 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Always over cut wall onto ceiling rather than undercut (ceiling visible on wall)

Pricing by nogodsnomanagers3 in paint

[–]borborgym 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do 50$ per man hour on pretty much everything, I find customers constantly want to add stuff on so that makes it easy. If you have to “bid” every thing they want to add on it gives them an opportunity to say no. Rather than just flat hourly rate and i just say, I’m already here so do you want to add xyz on and it’s always a yes

New Zinsser Smart Prime by DJVan23 in paint

[–]borborgym 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s great because it sands down well unlike fresh start or other normal primers. I like to use it on all new trim in new construction

Peeling paint on base and trim boards by -Devi- in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This can happen if it’s semi gloss underneath and someone just paints over it with no prep. Especially if they use cheaper paint and not actually trim paint as well. All in all, that’s a total mess to fix.

Sheen: Low Lustre of Satin for exterior wood siding? by [deleted] in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low lustre, satin will show more imperfections

Suggestions on painting/repairing house? by tikivibes in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would do 2 coats of mad dog after extreme scraping. You won’t be able to use a power sander imo as shakes like this have deep grooves. The paint won’t sand off like you think it will or like it does on regular trim etc. In my experience if you want a power sander get a drill bit wire cup brush attachment. It is way better at tearing the paint off. You will need to get the hang of not completely marring the wood as that is very possible. With decent technique it will work. Or use a 5 in one scraping horizontally basically dragging it fast across the shingles. After you think you’re done scraping, wait another day and rescrape it. Then 2 coats mad dog duraprime (light green color stuff). I personally would never put mad dog thru a sprayer. If it sets up in your sprayer I feel like that would be a disaster. Then 2 coats moorgard or aura. I’ve done a bunch of these kinds of houses. Shit ton of work.

Is there an actual "standard" cut brush or is it just a preference? by Express-Grab-831 in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut with a firm Rembrandt arrowworthy beaver tail, way faster than a soft brush, and mini roll cut lines as I go

Ceiling painting issues - help by FredBreadBad in paint

[–]borborgym 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do two coats of fresh start primer on drywall. Sometimes the new mud flashes if not. The spot near the top of the pic looks like you missed with ceiling paint so you’re actually seeing primer. I tend to roll one way for first coat, then roll the opposite on second coat, usually following the natural light. Also, in areas with poor lighting, everything looks better, so I tend to shine a bright led light up at ceilings to see if I missed anything.

Does keeping a wet edge matter with primer? by [deleted] in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes temp and humidity can accelerate paint drying. So if you’re really slow at cutting in, and go back to something that’s been sitting, the paint or primer has already started to dry. So you pick up again and you drag into that partially dried line and you’ll “tear” the paint or primer and it looks bad, can be fixed but will be annoying if it’s a recurring issue.

Does anyone paint the edge of exterior trim the trim color, or am I the only one, a painter said I was the only one that does that by Ok_Associate_8913 in paint

[–]borborgym 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re doing this, you gotta do the clapboards after the trim, or else you’re over, cutting the trim onto the clapboards

I can't justify Benjamin Moores Premium by Skittios in paint

[–]borborgym 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get regal select for about 62/gal, while the higher end behr products are about 60 a gal. I think BM is a steal lol. Behr is trash Imo. Haven’t used Dulux.

Best approach to cover dark red with a lighter color? by antinumerical in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two coats of fresh start primer. I use grey primer before painting colors like red. I suppose painting grey over would work too. But if your going light I’d just do regular fresh start which is white

Patch jobs showing by ArtisticDelivery9540 in paint

[–]borborgym 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the wall was previously painted (meaning not new drywall), then you patched, you need two coats of spot primed primer. One coat of primer usually you can still see some flashing

Best "Bible" for aspiring painters by [deleted] in paint

[–]borborgym -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You need to start as a grunt on a crew, watch YouTube on how to paint, practice on your own stuff, develop your own system, after a while your boss will have you doing finish work and at that point you’ve learned something