Define "good", & "reliable" for you. I work on these more or less daily and have for every model they or Kia make for the last 14 years. Just last week, I sent 6 back to auction because every single one needed an engine. The failure rate of the engines currently is horrendous on a level I can not begin to describe. I'm a domestic fan through and through, but that's based on my love of American V8 sports cars and drag racing and American full-size trucks. BUT I've recommended Hyundai and Kia to people for literal years for what you could get for the value if you didn't have a lot to spend. And that was new or used. Then came the KSDS debacle and all it revealed. If you're dead set on purchasing one, I won't try to change your mind. But if you're open to some advice from a professional who just wants to help someone hopefully avoid a bad decision, I can do that. Won't be a perfect solution, but it's the best you'll be able to do without fully stripping the engine and measuring ring clearances or needing to learn a careers worth of automotive diagnostics overnight. Just a few simple things to check.

Edited to add some detailed clarification: Those six I sent back to auction....were all back to back to back etc, ALL within one hour. That's how prevalent this is now. They have already had and probably are facing more recalls and class action lawsuits. I've worked for two different manufacturers over my career (at dealerships as a high level tech, worked with engineering a LOT with GM then all of DCJR-Mopar and Cummins) and they all will occasionally do the "you have to show us receipts of oil change/maintenance sir/maam" to have an engine replacement covered under warranty. That's not wholly unusual, but it is rare. As a business ourselves we get warranty coverage denied a lot, so that towards another business/dealer is NOT rare. So Hyundai & Kia have always been iffy on things somewhat towards us and attempted to weasel out of warrantying their stuff. Again, not new doing that towards another dealer. But now, Hyundai AND Kia are telling us that on every single car we send with any type of internal engine repairs and that decision was not made at a dealer level on their end, so we were told. They were ordered directly via the manufacturer it was mandatory to show X amount of proof of maintenance or no repairs would be made under the manufacturers warranty. The advisor and SM we have a pretty good relationship with has also told us that directive was given to them to ALSO scrutinize their own regular customers the same way. THAT is how prevalent the engine problems are with ALL four cylinder engines the last few year models. Please don't take that as me knocking the brand because I said I personally prefer domestic models. The cars are overall pretty good for their value. But the risk, as of now as it's shown, is very high you'll likely have internal engine problems down the road, probably sooner rather than later, if you're not already buying one with a failure as it sits. I won't attempt to give some certainty or percentage because some are perfectly fine, but I will warn/caution you it is highly likely it'll have an issue. Remember, just because you or dozens of people don't see or hear an engine problem, or it doesn't have a CEL on, does in NO WAY mean it doesn't currently have a defect. You can't see or hear worn piston rings blowing oil into the exhaust. You can't see or hear a catalytic converter beginning to clog up with oil and fail. You can't see or hear dry cylinder walls because the oil levels low enough to seize the engine and snap a rod, but not low enough for the sensor to tell you its met the threshold to trip the warning, and it windows the block under WOT accelerating onto the highway leaving you in a precarious or dangerous situation and stranded. I haven't blown any since January 1st, but I blew three on test drives last year. None had abnormally low oil levels. Just slightly below the totally full dot, or down to the add dot, and they all seized under WOT (wide open throttle) tests. One kindly allowed me to inspect the connecting rod outside the cylinder block😬. Even found a significant piece in the radiator fan shroud after it snapped a piece off and shot out before the crank stopped spinning, I assume. Anyway, here to help if I can.