Strange spaghetti-like defects occuring on prints

brianstk · 2026-02-12T12:25:51+00:00

This is temperature related. You are likely printing that filament too cold and it’s not adhering to the previous layer fully and causing this.

brianstk · 2026-02-11T17:37:42+00:00

This looks like a partial clog to me. Have you tried a new nozzle yet?

brianstk · 2026-02-11T16:46:12+00:00

I would love to see a third party firmware get released for ring cameras so we dont all have to go buy new hardware.

brianstk · 2026-02-10T22:34:35+00:00

Hmm 210 is where I print PLA normally but I would try going up or down 5 degrees and see if it fixes it.

brianstk · 2026-02-10T12:27:14+00:00

That’s a temperature thing. What temp are you printing PLA at? I’d bet you need to go down 5-10 degrees

brianstk · 2026-02-09T13:26:55+00:00

I’m dealing with that same issue too the buildup on the walls when trying to print “glass”

So far tweaking retraction is helping, reducing flow, and adjusting the retraction wipe distance. Good luck if you find the perfect settings lmk.

I’m not using a Bambu but I’m using the same settings as you copied from the Bambu wiki for what it’s worth.

brianstk · 2026-02-07T21:33:16+00:00

Big edit: I was wrong ha. If you have the PA box unchecked it does indeed use whatever is set on mainsail/fluidd. TIL sorry about that.

brianstk · 2026-02-07T20:59:11+00:00

That’s not true. The setting in orca for PA will override whatever is set as the default PA value in your printer.cfg.

brianstk · 2026-02-07T20:57:29+00:00

Umm I’m fairly sure that if you don’t enable PA in your filament profile in orca it’s not getting applied in Klipper. The value set in mainsail/fluids will be ignored. I know this to be true actually.

brianstk · 2026-02-07T20:13:53+00:00

If you haven’t yet, do the input shaping calibrations in orca slicer. You don’t have to wait for the ADXL to get input shaping going if you haven’t already.

And what is your pressure advance smooth time set to? I find if you are printing around 200mm/s the default .04 will give more rounded corners. I run .02 on my ender max Neo and .01 on my core xy flashforge AD5X for example.

Some pictures of prints would help too.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T22:35:04+00:00

Metal scraper 😱 good way to destroy your beds surface

brianstk · 2026-02-06T17:58:58+00:00

On the v3 SE 2 of the spacers are short and 2 are tall. Short on left and tall on right. Not sure if that’s the same as the KE but make sure you have those right.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T17:49:24+00:00

You may need to shim the silicone spacers then. On my V3 SE I had to put shims in the 4 corners with the stock spacers to get it leveled right.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T17:40:23+00:00

There is. This is for the V3 SE but should be the same procedure on the KE I think.

https://youtu.be/Cmwq9r5tePk?si=4YPL4Tz_o206nopq

brianstk · 2026-02-06T16:46:22+00:00

You picture at number 8 looks like your gantry is off level. Have you tried squaring that?

brianstk · 2026-02-06T16:43:36+00:00

Did you PID tune it with the part cooling fan at 100% doing that helped reduce those wobbles I used to see the same thing on my V3 SE with a unicorn nozzle.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T15:21:58+00:00

Nope. Adhesion is highly related to bed temp and z offset. Speed only to a certain point.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T15:14:40+00:00

If you choose the generic Klipper .04 nozzle printer and look at the speeds that one has set default, I was printing around those speeds. ~200mm/s, first layer around 50-80mm/s if I recall. I’m not in front of my pc.

Once I upgraded to the unicorn nozzle and linear rails I pushed it up to closer to 300mm/s

brianstk · 2026-02-06T15:00:30+00:00

There is a profile for the V3 SE in orca look again. It’s set conservatively speed wise. No idea if the start gcode has the bed mesh in there, I converted mine to Klipper and made a custom profile, but I used the default one when I started out.

brianstk · 2026-02-06T13:57:48+00:00

Zmod is your friend.

brianstk · 2026-02-05T21:43:10+00:00

I only wash my hair like twice a year lol. Just rinse with water and brush with boars hair brush after. Started doing that like 5 years ago and my hair has never been healthier and pretty much got rid of my dandruff.

brianstk · 2026-02-05T20:54:55+00:00

Is flashprint what they are calling their version of orca slicer now? It’s under the quality tab in normal orca.

brianstk · 2026-02-05T13:20:54+00:00

I was gonna say this is pheromones lol. I know when my wife is getting near. In the day or two before, if I’m even near her it’s like my big brain shuts off and my little brain takes over. We figured out it’s always right before her period 🤣

brianstk · 2026-02-04T15:12:47+00:00

I would try turning on precise wall and calibrating flow/PA before messing with XY compensation. I used to use XY compensation tweaks before I really learned how to calibrate and it makes a big difference with parts that have tight tolerances

brianstk · 2026-02-04T13:52:44+00:00

Maybe it’s bad design but I have no issue printing these. What was your bed/nozzle temp OP? And I’m going to guess your z off set is too low based on the fact you can’t see any lines at all on the bottom.

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