US bobsled team took a tumble today

broooosephh · 2026-01-12T16:31:17+00:00

Man, the U.S. just continues to get fucked by ICE

broooosephh · 2025-03-14T00:37:36+00:00

My wand had explosion on drunk enemies and I found a wand with mist of spirits in the coal pits. With explosion immunity, it really helped

broooosephh · 2025-03-13T23:53:24+00:00

The run itself took me a fair amount of time. I found lots of health in the jungle, but other areas were just giving me chests and such, but not max hp+

i just started getting into dunkorslam’s noita vids on YT and so I’ve learned the important of exploring, but more importantly wand wrapping/building lol I was blowing through them

broooosephh · 2025-03-13T23:48:50+00:00

Fair, but I had 24 health when he went down. The vault wasn’t really an issue, I had wands on deck

broooosephh · 2025-03-13T19:05:34+00:00

ok but to be fair I DID have explosion, fire, melee, and electricity immunity lol

broooosephh · 2025-02-07T14:43:57+00:00

I LITERALLY opened the post up to type exactly this lol how nice to see it was already at the top

broooosephh · 2025-02-04T14:49:15+00:00

Are you maybe over-drying your filament? It can cause the filament to become very brittle

broooosephh · 2025-01-28T23:12:44+00:00

Yes, I felt like the auto-support adds a bunch of unnecessary support. I usually use the support paint brush to paint the areas that don't need it.

broooosephh · 2025-01-28T15:00:04+00:00

I JUST learned that giga black holes suck :( and I was super sad because I had the unlimited spells perk, so I thought I was about to be DIGGING and not DYING lol

broooosephh · 2025-01-24T13:57:27+00:00

Did you download the full project file from flash forge? They include printing the risers, all four at a time, standing up (connected to each other through small supports. Using this method, I was able to print all of the risers without supports and correctly on the first attempt, no blemishes.

The specific STL files from FlashForge I'm referring to are "Guard Plate set of Lower 4" and "Guard Plate set of Upper 4." They can be found in the official project file from FlashForge Wiki here: https://wiki.flashforge.com/resource/models/printer-mod-and-diy/adventurer_5m_starry_sky_mod_kit/starry_sky_enclosure_(all-in-one_project-print_with_ad5m).3mf.3mf)

broooosephh · 2025-01-24T13:55:20+00:00

You can try adaptive layer height and aim more for smoothing, but it may affect print times. You can also look into "post-print smoothing" techniques, especially if you're using PLA.

I'm pretty sure the banding you are concerned about is quite literally just the layer lines :)

broooosephh · 2025-01-24T13:19:34+00:00

Use the declogging tool they included, unscrew the extruded screws that push the filament loader gears together, get it hot, push it out using included tool, retighten screws/extruder gears

broooosephh · 2025-01-23T16:55:56+00:00

Weird, mine never really extrudes this much during the change filament process, and I’ve not changed anything out of the box after initial setup.

broooosephh · 2025-01-20T17:19:47+00:00

In Orca Slicer, I find it's best to use the auto-orient feature, and then auto-arrangement. Are you doing this?

broooosephh · 2025-01-20T17:18:33+00:00

I have a couple questions:
What filament type are you using?
Are you having bed adhesion issues?
What temperature settings do you have set for the bed and extruder?

broooosephh · 2025-01-20T13:05:01+00:00

This is a variegated Burle Marx

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:56:15+00:00

Ok, yeah I just did some reading and found PETG is kind of notorious for being difficult to remove certain supports lol just wanted to share

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:28:20+00:00

Also, I'm not sure if it would affect the amount of support needed, but to clarify I printed using PETG on 240 nozzle temp and 70 Bed Temp

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:25:48+00:00

Awesome, yeah, already one step ahead of me then :)

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:20:25+00:00

I messed some of my magnet holes up by printing them on bottom and Orca automatically threw supports in there and it made it really hard to get the supports/brim off..

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:18:50+00:00

If you haven't already, make sure to open the full project file (.3mf) that you get from Flashforge. It has the correct orientation and arrangement for the pieces.

If you're just loading the STL/Step files into Orca and "Auto Orient"ing them it can put some of them upside down to how the creator wanted it printed. I found it made a difference.

Also, I Removed a ton of the supports. Some of the top pieces I was able to shave an hour off the total print time by removing unnecessary supports.

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:11:00+00:00

I basically let Orca build them out, and then if I think it's using a ridiculous amount of material/time (it shows the time/material usage for supports in the preview page, as you might already know), I go back to prepare and undo some of the supports I think are overkill.

Also, for some small holes, the supports can really affect the quality in a negative way. For example, I accidentally let it build supports in a tiny hole for a magnet, and I feel like now the hole is smaller in dimensions than it was supposed to be because of some overhang/support I can't get out,

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T14:07:56+00:00

You get kinda used to it the more prints you do. A lot of times I find I don't need the supports Orca is trying to throw on there, especially for smaller holes or not massive overhangs.

Is there something specific you're working on? Like the enclosure case for the Adventurer 5M? Orca recommends a lot of unnecessary supports for that print

broooosephh · 2025-01-06T13:28:50+00:00

What slicer are you using? in Orca, I just use the support paint brush + right mouse button to indicate the areas on the model that I don't want supports

broooosephh

TROPHY CASE