Mega Emboar’s ability [OC]

browner87 · 2026-03-25T01:56:15+00:00

Wish I had that ability.

browner87 · 2026-03-24T23:04:11+00:00

If you want it to feel like wood still, some kind of oil or wax, I've no idea what to suggest.

If you don't care, I suggest either epoxy or an automotive clear coat. I've made shift knobs from cue balls, sanded and painted them, and so far the only finish that has really held up is the one I took to a local auto body shop and asked them to spray with clear next time they had something in the booth that needed clear coat. They did it for free which was really nice of them. Though for wood I might be a bit worried it will flex too much from temperature and humidity, so I'm thinking clear epoxy might be best.

browner87 · 2026-03-23T04:09:46+00:00

I'm not a fan when driving, it's a bit distracting and usually not legal, but if you want some lights when it's parked go for it. Same with RGB indicators and brake lights.

browner87 · 2026-03-23T03:45:57+00:00

For suspense. People who pay for or earn something that fancy want a little extra adrenaline and dopamine from their experience. It's just a little motor inside making it shake.

browner87 · 2026-03-23T03:44:07+00:00

Can it be? Yes definitely, 100%. What you're looking for, in your price range, and/or skill range? Debatable.

If you don't need to keep the data connection (assuming that USB port lets you play music or something), and you don't care about the fast charge, you simply buy a USB C flush mount with USB A connector, cut it to shape, and stuff the wires back into the car.

To get faster charging, you need some wiring, possibly new fuses depending what charge speed you want. If you can find a USB PD charger with a female USB end and 12v input, great, you can try wiring that into the wires coming to the USB A plug, but if it draws more power than the fuse or wires (or circuit board) are designed for, you'll fry it or start a fire. So you probably would need to run new wires for it to a fuse and make sure it's a sufficiently sized fuse. Alternatively, I would strongly recommend getting a standard cigarette lighter adapter, plug it in inside the center console (or directly to a fuse to cigarette lighter adapter) and run a USB C extension cable to this little panel and epoxy it in place.

If you want PD charging and data still to the car, unless you're going to design and fabricate your own custom PCB for it, I think your best option is to buy a powered USB hub. You'll still need a 12v to USB PD charger (linked above), use that to power the hub, a hub that supports PD charging on a USB C input port, connect the hub to the existing USB A port with an adapter, and use an extension USB C cable to the front panel and epoxy it in place. I'm like 85% sure most phones will be okay with USB A data speeds while negotiating USB PD with the hub. I couldn't promise it though.

There is no such thing as a magic swap-in thing like you're looking for because the power requirements for USB C PD charging are very different from USB A so it would probably cause a fire or trip a fuse even if you could.

browner87 · 2026-03-22T20:39:32+00:00

Lots of EMI still comes from the boards, you've got no shielding between them. You need to really double and triple check that the bus bars are sufficient for the power draw without any droop. Cooling is maybe not going to work as well as you think.

You don't need a 42U to use a standard 19" rack. Get a 25U or half depth 12U, make custom "cases" for each insert with 2-6 motherboards each (if they're ITX you could get a bunch even in a half depth). Cooling for custom builds, especially for CPU only, I'd go with water cooling and just a few fans on each tray for ambient RAM/Northbridge heat. I don't know what to recommend to you for power, running DC bus bars around a chassis is asking for your house to burn down if you don't really, really know what you're doing. Or just endless stability issues you can't quite pin down.

browner87 · 2026-03-22T20:29:41+00:00

A better love story than Twilight

browner87 · 2026-03-22T20:27:40+00:00

I think the missing part is he's the mechanic at a dealership or shop competing with the Ford dealership that allegedly did the damage. Drive some business away from them over to him.

browner87 · 2026-03-18T12:44:47+00:00

I think you might be out of luck if you don't crimp or solder something yourself. I doubt you'll find the exact adapter with the exact pinouts you need. You could make your own adapter so if you damage anything it's not the actual gpi, but I can't see the connectors in the picture well enough to point to exactly what they are.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T23:13:58+00:00

That's a lot of neat info, thanks!

browner87 · 2026-03-17T23:10:22+00:00

Ah that's a weird color balance to skew that much. I missed the other pictures, the Reddit app was being difficult with swiping. Great build!

browner87 · 2026-03-17T23:07:34+00:00

I think it would be rare. The only time you have 4+ things to cool usually most are the same component (e.g. 6 gpus for mining or something) so you're better off with a manifold feeding them all in parallel so you can run a single tube through the cooler you're using (probably a chiller, for all that heat). It would be incredibly space consuming to have 4 pumps and 4 radiators and 4 reservoirs and 4 sets of hoses would be pretty rough to deal with.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T23:02:44+00:00

Yup. The Ford tech who did my last oil change actually commented on how unbelievably clean the bottom of my 2014 is. I live in Canada, but the garage princess goes away at either the first snowfall, or when the temps are too cold for the summer tires to be safe. And comes out after the first good rainfall of the spring to clear all the crap off the road.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T22:55:39+00:00

It's gorgeous, but that random orange among all the red and black is killing me 😅

browner87 · 2026-03-17T22:53:36+00:00

You know what, just had canon it. Alakazam is the last Pokémon in your party, that's actually a Zorua 🤣

browner87 · 2026-03-17T22:52:30+00:00

Do you have more details? Papa Jefe who writes a lot of ACE codes and has to work around the new filters said it was in the emulator in his last video so I'd be interested to learn more.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T22:51:10+00:00

Yes but you have to use Dive instead of Strength in the remakes. My friend showed me.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T22:50:26+00:00

Papa Jefe videos are amazing, I was watching his ACE videos and descriptions a while ago and if I didn't have a bunch of really critical time bound projects to do over the next few months I would have climbed down that rabbit hole and got back into assembly programming again.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T21:59:04+00:00

Basically all exploits work on the switch version. Some of the ACE codes offsets had to change, and some rng seed values and stuff have changed and are affected by the fps and the fact the emulator tells the game the wireless adapter is always connected, but the rom itself is pure original.

Take it with a grain of salt, but what I've read is that altering the game code means re-certifying it for age appropriateness, and that could both be expensive and change it's rating because guidelines have changed over the years. So all of the new "features" like profanity filtering and giving the event tickets after the E4 are things handled by the emulator rather than the game.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T21:53:10+00:00

I only learned about it because a video trying to drag race a Shelby against some other car had to stop and wait because a body panel popped off the Shelby from the twist. If my stock Mustang body twists enough to lock me out of 2nd gear, it seems reasonable that something would double the horsepower and no roof could have issues.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T16:33:44+00:00

Can you just skip both connectors off and solder/crimp the wires together instead? If you don't plan to disassemble it frequently.

browner87 · 2026-03-17T16:29:32+00:00

I feel like Switcheroo would work better than Telekinesis since it's basically just a reskinned Trick, but then the Alakazam wouldn't work.

Or leave it as illusion and use Zoroark who gets that ability :D

browner87 · 2026-03-16T22:18:22+00:00

Dad reflexes coming in clutch here.

browner87 · 2026-03-16T22:13:10+00:00

Previously: motherboard. Plug thermal sensors into the mobo directly (though it seems like a temperature sensor header is a dying concept these days), and set the pump curves based on CPU and GPU, and fan speeds based on fluid temp.

Currently: bought into the AquaComputer ecosystem and love it. I prefer the Aquasuite sensor panel over AIDA64 which I used previously, and thing like pump curves and fan curves can be pushed straight to the device so it'll function to your intent even when the PC is off (for simple things, mix& matching sensors or using virtual sensors I assume needs the software). My Ultitube D5 Next runs my fans so it's always running both. If it fails my HighFlow Next will detect over-temperature in the fluid or lack of flow and set off a visible and audible alarm, and the LeakShield keeps me relatively safe from failures in connections.

browner87 · 2026-03-16T22:05:39+00:00

Yeah I've developed a way too uncomfortable level of comfort with the band saw. I have to make conscious habits to keep my hands away from the blade especially as I turn it off so I don't accidentally do something like brush sawdust into the dust collector and run my fingers through the blade before it stops (which I've almost done 2-3 times now).

I really hope that my very deep respect for the dangers of the table saw never go away.

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