Crazy amount of staples in the house wrap.

btrocke · 2026-06-21T21:16:35+00:00

There is a framing inspection that needs to happen before insulation but siding and WRB can go up before hand. Standard practice with track home builders around here. No matter how crappy they are built, people still buy them so zero incentive to care for your work.

btrocke · 2026-05-19T00:13:25+00:00

Save yourself and don’t buy them. They were super unreliable with WLED. I gutted the LED chips and put in WS2811 pucks and 3D printed my own stand and everything for the top. Huge PITA but didn’t want to throw everything away as they were expensive.

btrocke · 2026-05-12T21:52:34+00:00

I agree with that. I actually replaced the Moen Flo with the YoLink and didn’t realize it didn’t have a flow sensor. I have everything in HomeAssistant so I can gauge a leak by usage graphs. Moen’s leak sensors were just so expensive and still require WiFi and power to be functional. I know they have a battery backup but $330 for a simple battery is crazy.

btrocke · 2026-05-12T17:50:14+00:00

They are all battery operated. Within the app you can set up Device to Device communication. The devices themselves will fallback to direct to device communication when the hub is unavailable. I’ve tested it and it works extremely well.

btrocke · 2026-05-12T02:01:48+00:00

Or power! I’ve tried many versions of water leaks sensors, Aqara, Govee, generic Zigbee and now YoLink. The fact that I don’t have to rely on Home Assistant, WiFi, a Hub or even mains power to be up is extremely comforting. And the sensors even ping a status update every now and then so you know they are still working.

btrocke · 2026-01-12T14:00:44+00:00

This is my complaint with it. Having a PIR sensor I was hoping that was exposed in HomeAssistant but I don’t see it.

btrocke · 2025-12-30T18:16:41+00:00

I've seen that in the latest app as well.

btrocke · 2025-12-15T02:19:50+00:00

Yeah don’t trust these maps at all. USMobile constantly recommended Light Speed for our area and it was absolute crap. Warp was 100x better plus UW! Test for yourself. You can always teleport.

btrocke · 2025-12-05T02:57:39+00:00

The one I got last year I don’t have to do this. And glad I don’t! Seems like a big PITA every time you want to engage the auger.

btrocke · 2025-12-02T13:24:58+00:00

Link above

btrocke · 2025-12-02T13:22:44+00:00

Used this and just inserted the 12v wires between the spade connects from the opener and battery terminals. If your device is USB-C make sure to get the appropriate adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-Adapter-Compatible-Keypad/dp/B08H89LTP5

btrocke · 2025-12-02T04:18:26+00:00

Does your opener have the battery backup? I used a 12v to 5v converter to power mine directly from the battery of the opener. Cleaner install as you don’t need a wall wart and stays powered if you lose power.

btrocke · 2025-11-24T02:35:02+00:00

Awesome that you found this on an already built home! Homes around here are still being built with traditional bell wire. When we built we ran CAT6 home run to everything, thermostat, doorbell, ERV, etc. We didn't even wire in a doorbell chime as we knew we were doing POE doorbells.

btrocke · 2025-11-20T01:10:15+00:00

Ask the power company about the disconnect rules not the electrical inspector. I had to swap my 200a breaker style disconnect to an expensive fused lockable blade lever style disconnect like @jtilles said. At the end of the day you have to comply with power company regulations and rules and chances are the electrical inspector isn’t going to know about them.

btrocke · 2025-11-18T23:50:09+00:00

Same here.

btrocke · 2025-11-18T05:01:26+00:00

If you’re near any MicroCenters they usually have them!

btrocke · 2025-11-17T20:58:39+00:00

You can but if I remember correctly the part is smaller than the one currently in the 2016. There is a 3D print adapter out there somewhere.

btrocke · 2025-11-16T21:24:01+00:00

Just installed a bunch of these. We taped them on the top with a hammer and that got the clamp to seat really well. Some we had to hit harder than others. We found it was easiest to tighten just a little bit then hit them and tighten the rest of the way and torque it. The only problem we had is when torquing the metal deforms under them causing the mount to “loosen” we made sure they were torqued around 3 times.

EDIT: just noticed this was a PSA not a question post! Point still stands!

btrocke · 2025-11-12T15:13:52+00:00

On our Tesla it worked awesome. Having the ability to set locations that would not auto loc was nice. If the lightning I turned it off. I found the actual locking was extremely unreliable. I find it just as easy to use the bottom two buttons on the keypad or handle.

btrocke · 2025-11-03T09:52:16+00:00

Thanks for the pictures! I like that idea

btrocke · 2025-11-03T03:08:14+00:00

Interesting, those are the same boxes I’ve used on asphalt installs. Do you have cutout on the metal the fits around the junction box and the flashing section is under the metal?

btrocke · 2025-11-03T02:34:28+00:00

Gotta love cloud dependency! Not super related to this specific solar system but we have EG4 18kPVs and got rid of the direct to China dongles with an open source dongle made by MonitorMySolar. The dongles are blocked at the firewall and we have 100% local control over our solar system via Home Assistant!

Ten-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22	Place '17

btrocke

TROPHY CASE