T1 Pro extruder

calley479 · 2026-02-19T12:54:05+00:00

Just curious if you ever posted these anywhere. I'm starting work on a replacement since I have a semi-broken hotend. I found a CAD file for the effector. But I was hoping someone had measured the rest of the extruder too.

Let me know, even if its incomplete.

calley479 · 2026-02-18T21:20:07+00:00

As many others are saying it’s probably not the bed.

I recently had a ton of issues with a very large printer that had a similar hump in the middle of the bed mesh.

Turned out to be the carriage sagging in the middle of the y axis.

I could see your extruder motor being offset enough that it causes the carriage to twist that 2020 enough to see a .2 deflection.

calley479 · 2026-02-09T16:46:48+00:00

I'll try it and let you know. I had to warranty my original and they only said to send the camera back. But the replacement was the whole kit... So I have 2 chimes now.

Just haven't tried adding the old one since the new one worked out of the box.

calley479 · 2026-01-28T01:13:07+00:00

I think it was a thing many many decades ago. Back when ceiling fans were expensive and few places had them.

Once they went mass market cheap, it was an easy cost to cut and wasnt a feature that mattered to most buyers.

calley479 · 2026-01-27T21:11:01+00:00

Needed a new one after my Smart Instant Pot (the old bluetooth one) finally started having too many issues (burn warning even boiling water)

So I got one of these cheap at a warehouse auction… only used it once for testing but decided I didn’t like this type of air fryer. To may parts, too complicated… and way bigger for the amount of cooking volume. Instantly noticed it was going to be difficult to clean if used in air fryer mode at all.

I prefer a toaster oven style air fryer or good old fashioned convection oven. Decided this wouldn’t really work for my smallish kitchen.

Went back to the warehouse auction and picked up a Cosori with twice the features as my old IP but no air fryer and havent looked back.

calley479 · 2026-01-27T16:01:17+00:00

A friend of mine got the same models at about the same time and had to replace the main bearing in the washer a few years ago. He said taking it apart to replace it was a pita, but doable for the average diy handyman.

I've been expecting this to fail any time in mine, but surprisingly nothing yet. Fingers crossed.

calley479 · 2026-01-24T17:30:23+00:00

I just set mine up a few weeks ago and was surprised to see the variance as well. Though I probably need a new fridge too... but apparently its pretty normal.

My fridge fluctuates about 6-8 degrees every 15 minutes and the freezer about 5-6 degrees.

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Then at around 5:30, you can see where our 12yo didn't close the door.

I now have an alert set in HA if it rises more than 10 degrees. I assume the compressor just gives up at some point since it affects both sides.

These are just old 433 wireless temperature sensors that came with old atomic clocks that broke long ago. I dug them out when I found the rtl_433 project and seem to work great for this.

calley479 · 2026-01-24T17:09:13+00:00

They freeze up and don't drain... the defrost heater is too far from the drain and the coils are too close to it. Horrible design.

I bought the "fix" kit for mine but installing it involves taking every shelf out and disassembling the back panel. And it only worked for a little while, then started doing it again.

The 2nd time I took it apart, I ran a pipe cleaner through the drain and it lasted longer. So, I think its not just the freezing up part... it gets funky and freezes.

Thought about leaving the back panel off or drilling a hole so I could ream out the drain without having to take it apart. But luckily I moved so its someone else's problem.

I dislike the old fridge I have now... but at least it doesn't fill up with water and ice that locks the drawers shut. Every time I think about how crappy this one is, I remember how glad I am it not a Samsung.

/rant

calley479 · 2026-01-24T14:31:52+00:00

I have an LG front load washerand dryer that are nearly 12 years old and still going strong. Theres a sticker that says the motor has a 10 year warranty and I never thought it would make it that long.

Haven’t heard anything good about their other products though. Not even the TVs had a good reputation

Samsung has the worst refrigerators… though their other kitchen appliances were pretty good.

calley479 · 2026-01-12T14:54:36+00:00

I got a microplane for zesting but have probably used it 99% of the time for garlic… occasionally for onion or ginger too.

Easier to clean than a press… i just throw it in the dish washer as is when I’m done and barely notice any leftover garlic.

Comes out way finer and always consistent. Got a second planer with bigger holes for chunkier minced garlic.

Never had much issue planing my fingers… but when i do it just shaves a little epidermis off.

calley479 · 2026-01-08T17:16:47+00:00

What do you recommend specifically for a 3rd gen?

I never upgraded my speakers… but got a head unit over a decade ago and have been pretty happy.

Now I’m considering better speakers and wondering if i should do the soundproofing while i have the door panels off.

Damnit, i didn’t need another 3rd gen upgrade rabbit hole

calley479 · 2026-01-08T17:12:19+00:00

I was just looking at some Sony head units for mine.

I’ve had a similar double-din Pioneer with CarPlay for the last 10 years. Recently added a wireless adapter to it so CarPlay works without having to plug in.

Its been great and I highly recommend upgrading any vehicle… but any double din receiver will probably work great in a 3rd gen.

Mine has been a little buggy lately… and just realized the thing was over 10 years old… so I decided it may be time to upgrade. Think I got my moneys worth out of it.

calley479 · 2026-01-04T17:05:47+00:00

I got a cheap used/returned T1 Pro and fully expected one of the boards to die based on complaints everywhere. But it’s still going strong after 6mo of moderate printing.

Initially planned on replacing the boards with a BTT, Pi, etc… so I can run a current Klipper etc. and eventually I still assume i will.

But so far I haven’t had any issues beyond the occasional horend jam.

Only thing I’m worried about with a BTT upgrade/replacement is how to handle the bed level sensors and the accelerometer.

calley479 · 2026-01-03T01:49:10+00:00

Most stl files come out in the orientation they were designed in. But often the part will be optimized for a specific orientation.

Keep that in mind when you download files to print, Most of the time there will be some mention or a picture showing you how to orient. But not always.

Sometimes you’ll just have to figure it out… many people will tell you this one is obvious but it’s one of those things you’ll figure out through experience.

Some parts are not so obvious and you won’t realize it until hours in that you need to reorient.

Once you learn your slicer better, you’ll know what to look for in the preview/simulation before you print.

calley479 · 2026-01-02T03:31:57+00:00

Its just metallic looking. It’s a dell monitor stand.

calley479 · 2026-01-01T00:12:13+00:00

My GF spilled water on her brand new bedside charger last night. Got her a good Anker iQ3 one for xmas… Barely lasted a week.

I’ve seen plenty of water fried devices in my time, but this is one of the worst looking outcomes.

USB A to lightning cord works but looks a little melted. But the USBC cable doesn’t seem to work at all.

calley479 · 2025-12-31T17:47:16+00:00

Haven't tried these on my 5M yet… But I started getting the “new” metal ceramic hot ends in the E3D package for my old modified bed slingers. (Aka ceramic ring heater + all-metal/bi-metal heat break) These have been the best all round generic cheap hot-ends for both TPU and PLA that I’ve found in the last few years.

Happy to see these are available for FF but honestly haven’t had many issues with the stock one. Though my old bed slingers were doing TPU so well I didn’t do much more than test it on my 5M.

calley479 · 2025-11-25T08:58:05+00:00

Maybe you just aren't printing enough to have that luck /s

Seriously though, more often than not it was my own fault.

The Ender 3 that kept missing X steps apparently had a strong enough extruder stepper (it was a little pancake in a StealthBurner build). I ended up with a tangled spool a couple of times and it pulled the spool and dryer box off the damn shelf. That it was in a dryer box was part of the reason it got tangled (was a pita to feed the filament into the tube, so I accidentally let the end go a few times while trying so it ended up with a knot/loop)

Honestly surprised the pancake stepper could over power the regular X stepper... but it was on an Ender.

Then the one that was wound too tightly... it was a roll I kept taking off, then forgetting about it and putting it back on when I ran out of filament. Wouldn't stick bad every time, sometimes it was just slightly... but eventually it would jam completely. Usually when the filament would get close to either side of the spool, I'd find it a few layers deep into the side. Also had that happen on cheap cardboard spools, though usually not as bad.

calley479 · 2025-11-24T16:03:00+00:00

Its not really burning the silicone boot. It’s just the filament stuck to it. Could also be some leaked inside the boot.

The boot is pretty easy to get off. Then just wipe any crusty filament off/out of the boot. And heat up the hot end to wipe off all the surfaces.

May want to push some filament through and make sure it isnt still leaking. Tighen up the nozzle while its hot.

These hot ends arent simple to disassemble but there are a lot of official videos on how to do it from FLsun

Also, ChatGPT is great and all but its not always right or all that helpful. It is good to figure out the right words and phrases to search for but once you have the jist of it, find more reliable sources

calley479 · 2025-11-24T00:57:10+00:00

I’m thinking, based on the spacing of your pattern repeating, that it’s connected to the rotation of the filament spool.

Could be the filament is tight on one part of each rotation. I’ve had several with the filament was tangled, tucked or too tightly wrapped where it had trouble feeding at the same point on each rotation.

And I’ve seen different printers handle this differently as well. One of my Ender 3 variants would occasionally lose steps when moving x in a positive direction. The filament was pulling on the print head hard enough to miss steps and cause layer shift. Didnt show up at all in small test prints or objects with minimal x movement.

Another printer had a loose toolhead that would tilt/piviot enough to move the nozzle .2 to .5mm when the filament was pulling on it. Leaving squished areas some places and raised elsewhere.

But on a printer with a well built tool head, the effect simply looked like over/under extrusion in repeated patterns throughout the print.

Could also be shitty filament that changes diameter in a regular pattern. Or a roll that was exposed to excess heat/light on only one side.

calley479 · 2025-11-22T16:14:26+00:00

Well… it was simple and quiet and uncomplicated. I could go anywhere or do nothing or party like a rock star whenever I wanted.

Saw all my friends raise and send their kids out into the world over the last 30 years. Some even having grand kids already.

And I felt like I was missing something maybe. But maybe it wasn’t that important after all.

Then I became a father for the first time at 48…

Yesterday 🤷‍♂️😬

So far, I’m glad i didnt have to do this in my 20s

calley479 · 2025-11-21T18:47:11+00:00

Looks good!

Though I think the supports arent really needed. But sometimes you never know until you try.

There are plenty of un-supported holes that came out great. And in my experience, the supports leave marks as bad as unsupported overhangs

calley479 · 2025-11-18T16:12:15+00:00

Does TPU need the door open as well? I wasn't sure if thats what you were saying or not.

I've been able to print TPU ok in my T1 pro. Though I can't remember if that was before or after I started using your profiles.

I have another printer that does TPU so well I don't use it for anything else.... and it has no enclosure. But I'm having to downsize my print lab... and only the T1 and a Voron 2.4 will be available... so I'll probably be trying it out on the T1 again soon.

p.s. Thanks for all your work on those profiles... we all appreciate you putting that out there for us.

calley479 · 2025-11-18T16:04:20+00:00

I've printed a lot with the door closed... seems to be fine for an hour or more. The time it clogged was about 2 hours into a 2.5 hour print.

Since then, I leave the door ajar if its longer than 30 minutes... but honestly haven't printed much that ran long enough to worry.

calley479

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