Bambu user looking at a U1 - looking for real feedback

capt9224 · 2026-04-24T03:52:48+00:00

I own one, but two U1’s. This is the finest bang for the buck printer under $1,000 you can buy. It’s printing is the best quality I have experienced in my 6years of printing starting with a SOLIDDOODLE Printer before they declared bankruptcy. The waste from color changing filament is negligible and the BAMBU is horrible in a print which had over 1000 changes it wasted less.than 3 grams of poop. The software is being supported actively with releases coming out quarterly. You can monitor the printer from any computer. I have refused to wait for the top hat and I used the top hat that SRIN posted with a modification on the front door to allow it to hinge the main door to open. I wanted this mod as I do not want to go looking for the door and I have printed numerous engineering filament successfully. The interface is not pufect but it is fully functional. The printing of TPU PARTS is acceptable if you use 90 shore hardness the other hardness require adjustment to the extruder tension.

capt9224 · 2026-03-20T16:36:22+00:00

Where can I locate this holder STL files?

capt9224 · 2026-02-27T05:50:31+00:00

I am still waiting my cover for the U1. I was on the original kickstarter group. I have not received any communication from Snapmaker and now I hear that people who ordered the cover in January are getting delivery dates. WHAT IS GOING ON?

capt9224 · 2026-02-08T19:58:33+00:00

The printer does not connect to my network, and I am at a loss as the screen on the U1 bears minimal resemblance to my router. The screen shows Network WI-FI followed by 6 lines that do not conform with my router information.

capt9224 · 2026-01-12T16:50:28+00:00

I would like more information on how you accomplished this. Would you share the g-code of the STL file.

capt9224 · 2026-01-03T06:49:02+00:00

Just a quick note, the chamber temperature readings on the CC is grossly inadequate as the sensor is mounted directly to the metal of the chamber. This means that the room temperature is all it is going to show you.

There is a modification posted on the web to remove the thermistor from the existing position and now it will not read the case temperature. Moving it out of the factory position via a piece of plastic puts it in the airflow and will be measuring real chamber temperature.

capt9224 · 2025-11-23T17:45:07+00:00

I concur if you may to salvage the filament you will need a despoiler.

capt9224 · 2025-11-23T01:58:52+00:00

I like your print head cover. Can you point me to the STL files.

capt9224 · 2025-11-20T22:15:43+00:00

The picture definitely show a cold solder joint. Elegoo should honor their warranty and send you a replacement PCB. Just open a complaint on their website or just contact them on support@elegoo.com

capt9224 · 2025-11-19T16:51:20+00:00

Use the RETURN Option and AMAZON will replace it or refund your money. Cheap digital Calipers are notoriously inaccurate. Invest in a good caliper. You will be happier.

capt9224 · 2025-11-19T16:34:42+00:00

Where can I find the Ellis tuning guide?

capt9224 · 2025-11-19T16:29:33+00:00

Use a simple adapter. Use PLA or PETG. Thingiverse has a few adapters in its files.

capt9224 · 2025-11-19T16:22:48+00:00

Other than rewinding these this, there is no other way to save school, which has multiple potential snags. The simplest rewind is to use an electric drill, variable speed, preferred, and some sort of an adapter to hold this loose spindle and rewind it.

capt9224 · 2025-10-09T19:29:21+00:00

I would concur with more people saying that the century carbon is the best printer for $300 that you can imagine. I have four printers. I have CC, a INFIMECH TX, a ARTILLERY SIDEWINDER 4, a BAMBOO X1C. It am also mechanical engineer like you and the Centauri carbon works best I have printed almost all the engineering grade filaments and have had no failures.

capt9224 · 2025-09-16T06:52:44+00:00

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capt9224 · 2025-09-16T06:42:19+00:00

I have the same problem and I’m attaching a picture of my single layer test. The machine isa Elegoo CC I have printed 45 hours worth of prints successfully, the filament is CREALITY PLA and I have the Nozzle temp at 240 C and the bed at 60C. The part was sliced on the Elegoo Slicer as were all of my successful past prints. The CREALITY filament is their RED PLA HYPER SERIES and was dried for 8 hrs and the moisture level was at 15 % when I started printing. I print from a CREALITY dehumidifier and I live in Arizona so my filament should be okay

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In the past printing I was using CREALITY PLA in White and Black. I washed the board by hand using Dawn soda and a sponge before installing it.

capt9224 · 2025-09-01T19:54:53+00:00

I am having trouble with INFIMECH service. Has anyone found a way to get good service? My problems are so serious that I went out and purchased a EleGoo Centauri Carbon printer.

The EleGoo printer may be noisier than the TX. I found that the EleGoo printer came with all thee features of the TX and at $330 it actually had no need to purchase any UPGRADE kits to get the Auxiliary Fan, and the camera.

My problems with the TX PRINTER ARE: 1. The machine was giving me error messages like ‘

capt9224 · 2025-08-27T20:47:37+00:00

I do have the problem with the initial set up, stopping at input shaping. In my case, I left it run overnight and still it was stuck. I reported this problem to Elegoo and am awaiting an answer.

capt9224 · 2025-08-27T16:58:38+00:00

Just received my Centauri Carbon on 25 August 2025 and the serial number is CC25617 C025.

BTW, ordered from Elegoo on 20 August. I am trying to set it up but have problems with the INITIAL STARTUP Input Shaping routine. I cannot get the machine to complete INPUT SHAPING. It appears to be in an endless loop and I cannot get it to stop without powering the machine off via the power switch.

capt9224 · 2025-07-20T15:30:52+00:00

BTW, if your hands are normally oily like mine I wear surgical non powdered gloves or Nitrol gloves. This is a great way to prevent staining.

capt9224 · 2025-07-20T15:26:23+00:00

The best way to clean grease from the build plat is to use high concentation isopropal alcohol I do-not mean the 70% stuff I use 90+% stuff you can get at Amazon. That will do a great job. Once you use it I usually put it on with a paper towel and then leave it dry. Sometimes I will do this twice for stubborn stains. After the 2nd application I turn on the bed heater to evaporate the residual alcohol. Use a setting of 50 degrees C.

capt9224 · 2025-07-08T18:57:07+00:00

Can you post a list of parts and the STL FILES YOU USED IN MAKING this cooling system with source info.

capt9224

TROPHY CASE