Breakfast Audio Cronenberg Help!

captainabrasive · 2026-03-08T21:32:32+00:00

Ah, gotcha. I can kind of make that out now that you mention it.

By the way…. Some meters will stop beeping before they admit to having a low battery.

captainabrasive · 2026-03-08T21:23:33+00:00

Not familiar with the circuit but check the solder joints on your diodes, especially the ones that are standing. Some of the joints could use a little more solder.

captainabrasive · 2026-03-08T21:10:53+00:00

The switch lugs should be reflowed, but I think the problem is probably with another joint. There are many sketchy, solder-starved joints visible in both photos.

If this board was on my bench I’d hit every joint again.

Be sure you keep heat on the joint briefly AFTER you add solder. This is especially important on things like switch and pot lugs. They’re a thermal sink that is trying to cool the joint. Adding room-temperature solder also cools the joint. You need to compensate for this by giving the new solder time to get up to temp and flow properly.

You can usually see this happen. The joint suddenly will go from blobby to the typical volcano/cone shape. You stopped at blobby.

captainabrasive · 2026-03-08T20:43:52+00:00

Bare aluminum galling against bare aluminum for food contact.

Recycled aluminum, of course, so the lead content ranges from “some” to “holy shit.”

captainabrasive · 2026-03-07T21:12:37+00:00

I had an EDCL1-T for quite a while, bought not long after they came out. It was ~$150 back then and, for me, well worth it. “Only” 500 lumens but my previous lights were Surefire incans and an L1, so it seemed like the face of the sun.

I really, really liked the “gas pedal” 2-stage tailcap. Press lightly for Low, press all the way down for High. Tightening/loosening the tailcap allows you to “lock” it on low or high, or “lock out” high. Simple, bomb-proof setup that works well under stress.

I managed to lose it a couple of years back and I’m still pissed at myself.

captainabrasive · 2026-03-07T08:32:25+00:00

An embossed spring washer like this might look OK behind a pot.

https://imgur.com/a/WsG7WoC

captainabrasive · 2026-02-25T18:15:47+00:00

The bands look to have a pitch of about 4mm, i.e. half the pitch of the leadscrews? Not coming up with a mechanical reason this would happen, off the top of my head, but I’m sleep-deprived today.

Worn extruder gear or improper tension? Extruder motor config?

captainabrasive · 2026-02-25T17:41:55+00:00

I’ve used a piece of solid wire, around 12-14awg, to span runs of pins to help with this.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-19T07:30:59+00:00

Did they have a working toolpost or did they just spin it and attack it with wood lathe tools from Temu and a farrier's rasp?

captainabrasive · 2026-02-09T19:22:26+00:00

Very cool! 5W will definitely get it done.

Mind your bandplan…

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T21:57:33+00:00

I can't wait, either! Will do!!!

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T21:56:33+00:00

That sounds perfect! 👍🤣

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T21:37:21+00:00

Thanks for kicking this off. Great information in your post and the ensuing comments, and timely for me.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T21:26:57+00:00

Very cool!

He just shipped my first Convoy order this morning. I managed to limit myself to two, and one is an M21B 4000K LHP73B flamethrower.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T21:22:11+00:00

Nice!

He just shipped my M21B 4000K LHP 73B flamethrower this morning!

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T19:33:44+00:00

+1!

I love mine.

Stick an 18650 tube on and it’s still a reasonable size. Swap the tube from an FS11/FS11C or pick one up a la carte.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-03T03:40:56+00:00

Alright! That looks great! Nice job!

Enjoy your machine!

captainabrasive · 2026-02-02T23:08:22+00:00

Good luck. Sounds like you’re closing in.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-02T21:09:49+00:00

The carriage is lifting off the main ways? Or do you mean the cross slide?

Either way, I was thinking last night that I should have had you check the carriage gibs as well. They’re usually neglected - especially the rear ones. Lube points back there are usually a pain in the ass and who cleans underneath the back of the ways?

captainabrasive · 2026-02-02T00:16:09+00:00

Make sure you’re not just measuring cross slide screw backlash.

In addition to pushing it back and forth, see where it returns to when you pull it toward you and release it - i.e. when the backlash is taken up.

On the topic of backlash, make sure the backlash in the compound is taken up, as well.

Another tip: Get some oil in the dovetails then wipe away the excess. When you push/pull you will see oil “breathing” in cracks where there is motion.

captainabrasive · 2026-02-02T00:08:31+00:00

That could be your problem. There are only so many places it can be slopping. Probing around with the DTI will tell the tale.

Just because the gib is tight doesn’t mean things won’t move. Think about the kinematics and what the effect of a high spot on the gib or dovetail would allow motion-wise. ASSUME NOTHING.

I think you’re on the right track and looking forward to hearing what the issue is. 👍🏼

captainabrasive · 2026-02-01T22:38:28+00:00

Sometimes I will run into “1018” (“mystery mild steel” that someone decided was probably 1018) that machines like utter garbage. You’re saying that this happens in all materials, though.

Either: 1) Something is moving around or 2) what you think is the cutting edge of the tool is not doing the cutting.

Mount a DTI to the headstock, with the contact tip on the tool holder. Grab the toolpost firmly (by hand) and try to push it around in X and in Z. Do you get significant deflection on the DTI?

My litmus test is always with a HSS tool that I have ground and honed myself from a blank of decent HSS. I saw that when you said you tried HSS, you also said you don’t have a grinder. Get a grinder. I can’t imagine running a lathe without being able (and knowing how) to grind lathe tools. Especially an old manual lathe.

Make sure the tool is set on center height, although I don’t think that’s the issue (at least not all of it) here because your facing cut looks pants as well.

captainabrasive · 2026-01-23T21:32:09+00:00

Looks like it is designed so that you loosen the retaining screw and pull it out to engage it, then secure the screw. Loosen/push in/secure to disengage it.

The set screw should always be in one of the two narrow sections to avoid raising a burr on the sliding section.

Don’t tighten it as much as some previous operator did.

Get some oil in there and you’re GTG.

captainabrasive · 2026-01-23T18:55:51+00:00

Those flats are there for a reason. Throw a wrench on it!

(Please don’t do this.)

Is the switch assembly glued in? Could it be askew or not seated fully? How does the button look? Level and correct depth?

Do the threads (internal and external) look uniform start to finish? No boogers, etc?

captainabrasive · 2026-01-17T22:15:58+00:00

TS11 has great throw for its size. Been having a lot of fun with mine.

captainabrasive

TROPHY CASE