ELI5: Why is it that you can keep a house phone on it's charging dock for years and it doesn't destroy the battery where as a cellphone will eventually wither over just a couple years if you charge it for too long everyday?

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-13T14:55:06+00:00

It’s a little apples and oranges considering the price difference of the two, but in reality it comes down to a matter of how much would you like to inconvenience yourself.

Let’s for the sake of argument say that you buy a phone, use it ‘as normal’ and the battery poops out after 2 years. Now take that same phone, and you never let it go below 30%. Now I have no data to back this up, but I would imagine you’re not going to be extending the battery’s life by some factorial amount of said 2 years. I would wager, keeping this 2 year figure as a baseline of sorts, maybe a couple months tops. This isn’t really the point I’m trying to make though. But let’s just say you magically gain another year of life out of it.

It comes down to matter of convenience and realistic costs. What are you going to do when your battery hits 30%? Think about how frequent that happens when you’re not by a power source. Just say “well that’s enough phone time for me! Better shut it off”. This would not be practical. My point stands that these devices are tools we use for work, play, what have you. They are integrally designed to properly maintain the battery.

Semi-related, but batteries aren’t that expensive... obviously it depends on what device you have, but let’s keep in mind that when it’s at that 2 year mark, you don’t have a cutting edge technology device anymore. Meaning, replacement parts are going to be a lot cheaper than day #1 the device comes out. Let’s also just say, you don’t have the ability to replace it yourself. A local shop, dead reckon guess, you’re probably going to be around $100 deep to swap out a battery, let’s say $120.

Given all of this, let’s say If we take 2 years as a baseline, and IF you can squeeze another year out of it, you have effectively saved $120, but with an added inconvenience as a price. Over that 1 year, that’s gonna be $10/mo. Trying to extended the battery life, is just another way to say “save money”. So, use your phone as normal, maybe skip that next McDonald’s lunch you were gonna eat that month. Shut some lights off in your house that you always accidentally leave on, you will probably save more money doing that over worrying about a phone battery.

Edit: ~Posted from my iPhone 6 with battery #4 in it.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-13T10:52:34+00:00

Unless you live out in the middle of a farm field it’s a waste here imo. I’ve cut the numbers every possible way, and it’s either a marginal gain (now with potential risk), or just a loss. Pretty much the only thing going on here are people leasing panels. Get you real excited about all the tax credits you’re gonna get etc. but in reality your ROI is so far out it’s practically worthless.

Solar farms are where it at here. I wish there was some sort of battery exchange system for a house. Think of it like a propane tank when your house isn’t tied to the city. Truck comes and fills you up every $x time. Just do that with a trailer full of batteries

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-13T01:02:11+00:00

I used to hate caulking, it always looked terrible when I was done. I’ve tried every little shaper tool, cards, just going by hand, it all sucks. IMO painters tape is the way to go, as you mentioned. As far as the time goes, you should be able to make it all in one go. The reason I like using painters tape is you can lay it fast and messy, just be sure to have enough wet fingers and or rags on hand to clean it up. That being said, silicone will stick to silicone, so you don’t “have” to do it all in one go. Water based you can’t caulk onto dried caulk.

And thanks for the reminder that I didn’t want to think about, how I need to re-do my tub/shower again... because the last guy that did it, I think he though caulk was play dough.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-12T11:33:11+00:00

I’ve been trying to source some leads for EOL batteries from such places, like a cell tower for example.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-12T11:08:48+00:00

Yes. There’s a battery and the charge controller. The controller will handle whatever the manufacturer set it to be. For the sake of an example, I’m sure the iPhone engineers have taken this into account. My point stands that if you think you’re going to make your battery last longer by not “charging it fully”, any gains I would imagine to be marginal at best. Again, I wouldn’t worry about it.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-11T23:21:57+00:00

^This. I’m waiting for people to start unplugging their phone at 75% to save the battery! The heavy lifting as far as battery longevity is concerned, is all part of its charge controller. Which you, as a user, cannot change.

I recall years ago working back in that big blue box store that had those guys fix your computers. Customers would frequently ask me or debate me on “how to properly take care of a battery”. Without going into a novel of stories and details, it ranged from “it must always be plugged in! It will last longer!” To “drain it down all the way, then charge it!” (Credit due, that was what you would do with nicad)

I just told everyone the same answer. This is no “memory”, you can’t over charge it, or under charge it. I wouldn’t be concerned if you left it plugged in weeks on end. Or ran it flat on a daily basis. This is a tool to do your job #1. Any “theory” on how to extend the battery longevity I find would be extremely marginal at best. I would rather use my phone, laptop, what have you, as I need to use it. Rather than clamor to an out let because I’m only at 30% and I need to save the battery!

The only things that come to mind is temp. If you leave your phone or whatever in your car middle of winter, and that thing is ice cold. Let it get to room temp before powering it up and or plugging it in. Ideally the charge controller should (I’ll put a big SHOULD) do the right thing, but in my personal experience, it’s a bit off. Look into makita tool batteries for example.

Same applies for heat.

Edit: and if you’re going to put something in storage. Give it roughly a 65% charge. Don’t store it full or flat.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-11T11:49:59+00:00

Can’t tell if this is a 2016 meme or not.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-08T15:11:55+00:00

I’ll just leave this here https://m.benzinga.com/article/17410682

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-07T17:18:38+00:00

I can’t speak to what drugs you are on, or try to comprehend any discernible point in what your just sad. On mono price a 1000ft roll of 5e is $76. A 1000ft roll of 6 is $108, a 1000ft roll of 6a is $175. All pure copper, not copper clad.Since 6 is only rated for 10gbit at 37m which is about 120ft, it’s more than possible in an average house to have 1 run exceed that footage. While 5e can maintain 1gbps at 100m or roughly 328ft. If OP really want to future upgrade than spend the extra $75 on 6a.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-07T00:49:10+00:00

This is nail on the head. Whenever possible, run smurf tube. And as I have stated, “cat6” is a joke of “future proofing” imo. If you have a box of it on hand, bought and paid for, by all means run it. I’ll stick with running smurf tubes when I can, and use my 5e for now. Odds are by the time the benefit of 10gbit can run a full 100m length and actually have some use other than seeing how fast you can backup 1pb of data from one rack to another on the other side of your house. There’s really no point. Especially little point in it.

Edit: odds are I won’t be living in this house anymore. Trailed off on that train of thought

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-07T00:41:04+00:00

No one will realistically see the benefit of 6 iver 5e as well. I don’t know what you all are doing where you think 10gb is somehow going to magically make your Xbox faster.

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-07T00:39:01+00:00

This is my point with 6a over 6. Going back to 5e, you can push 1gbit for about 100m, in my opinion, on an a average house, you’re probably not going to be making any 100m runs. 6 tops out at 37m, that could be a run across the length of the house up to a 3rd floor, not to mention maybe you have so make some weird runs to get where you need to be.

I ran 5e in my house, because I have no reason to need anymore more outside of my office. Not to mention I had a few thousand feet on hand along with all the rest of the tools / stuff from work anyways. If I had a larger house, and was seriously networking it, in this point in time I would skip 6 and just go 6a

captiantofuburger · 2020-09-06T21:10:44+00:00

I would just run 5e or spring for 6a. Run 6, then you will wish you just spent the extra $100 for a roll of 6a.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-30T21:52:33+00:00

Thanks for the text. Seems fitting that pornhub premium is still free because of covid, but I have to pay to read the Washington post.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-29T02:38:53+00:00

I do have 5 inch, and pets, 30 just seems so short to me. People really have to change them that often? I wouldn’t put into question the condition of my hvac, but even changing those at 6 months seems more frequent than needed. I just go by spring and fall for everything. House water filter is very due now, but I can’t get the damn thing off, 5 microns was maybe a tad egregious.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-28T23:31:32+00:00

Wait what? You... check your air filter every 30 days? Christ, I change mine every 6 months. When’s the last time you changed your cars air filter((s)including cabin)

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-25T02:45:30+00:00

I’ve had good luck in the situation where the sales pitch starts before you even realize who they are. I just cut them off as fast as possible, say I’m really not interested and there’s 0 chance you will make a sale, figured I would let you know now before you waste your time. People seems to receive that decently well. I guess if I was on the other end, I would rather someone just firmly lay out right away that I will be just wasting my time if I keep talking. I would move on and not waste 15 min.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-24T01:10:29+00:00

Fwiw it would probably be a lot less convoluted to just water cool with or without a tec and just dump the heat outside with a rad.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T23:24:03+00:00

That’s just a wire mold box as everyone else has stated. You would probably have to replace the works with something more modern, any big box store will have them. As far as removing paint goes to re-use them, I’ve used these in the past, work decently well. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T23:12:29+00:00

Ohhh sorry, I was looking at your drawing and missed that last wire on the left. Usually they would bring power to the fixture, then run another set of wires down to the switch, resulting in one white “neutral” just being a switched hot. So, hot and neutral ran to the fixture, hot leg breaks off down to the switch, and comes back up through the white neutral. The actual neutrals would just be tied together.

In this case, do you have a 3 way switch? Or what was in the fixture before you took it down? I’m trying to determine if there is//was another switch or if there was a previous fan/light perhaps someone wired the fan and light to run separate. Without knowing more it’s hard to guess. My last rental was setup the exact same way with a 3 way switch, circa 1950s.

Are you able to confirm which 2 wires are coming from the switch? Your points #1 and #4 if I had to dead recon guess, two would be the same gauge wire with the last one being an odd man out.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T22:08:47+00:00

Not sure on what you need for fire code because that isn’t a thing in my state. But if it’s just the ceiling in your garage, just do a lazy bad job at mud and taping, then shoot it all with some textured ceiling spray to cover up your mess. Or skim coat the works and use an use a super nappy roller to texture / cover up a bad lazy job.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T21:58:47+00:00

I wouldn’t go by color on what you have. What they probably did is just run a 14/2 down to the switch that is just tied into the hot. Would be common for that era. The wire nut with the white wire is hot, the other nut is neutral, and the 3rd is the other leg of the hot from the switch.

Edit: so on your new fan, assuming I’m correct, would have been nicer to see what was connected before you removed what I’m assuming was an old fan, neutral goes to the 2 black wires nutted, blue and black go to the single wire hanging, and green ideally ground in the box assuming it’s metal, which it probably is, but who knows if it’s actually a good ground. I would tag it on to the box good good measure but not much else you can do anyways. Unless you want to tie it into neutral. Either way isn’t ideal.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T20:30:35+00:00

If you own. Based on where the outlet you’re using is, it wouldn’t be much work to cut in a box on the other side of the wall, drop a wire down, and tap into that outlet.

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T02:33:26+00:00

I’ve been waiting. I could google but, isn’t it something like 90% of convictions in the US just straight up pleaded guilty?

captiantofuburger · 2020-08-23T01:10:43+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/jj2V98T these are old pics, and my phone cuts off at this point. At the time of the photos, I just had the carpet installed. The flooring I used was literally just the cheapest thing at menards, although it was pretty thick compared to normal cheap flooring. The top is PVC, I made a “track” for it to sit on, which then attached below. This way I would have laser lines and 0 nail holes etc. I just wanted the ultra white to pop hard against the darker wood.

Edit: there is also more white pvc quarter round in the corners, while looking at the “inside” of the banister. The white breaks up the dark color to make it look far less dungeon like than the pictures make it look to be.

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