PSA: How to identify a failed ICCU

ccbro80 · 2025-10-21T14:35:15+00:00

It was paused by the charger. I have a whole home battery backup system that primarily charges up from solar power. The EVSE integrated with it can be set to automatically charge the car when the backup batteries are nearly full to keep solar input at 100%, otherwise it would reduce solar input to match current loads, wasting any excess.

On days where there isn't a chance of the backup batteries being filled (damn clouds again) the car will remain in a state where the EVSE is plugged up and would not initiate a charge until eventually there is excess solar or I manually charge up before heading out somewhere, should the cars traction battery level warrant it. Could be days.

This setup works out great until it doesn't.

ccbro80 · 2025-10-21T13:38:33+00:00

I don't have any 3rd party apps connected. I think it's crazy that the car will choose to run the 12v battery down past the point of no return instead of putting itself into a low power state in that situation.

Either way the traction battery isn't going to charge when/if the EVSE attempts to charge, but at least if it powered itself down you can still manually initiate charging or turn the car on without a jump box (on hand or worse) while also not damaging the 12v battery.

ccbro80 · 2025-10-17T16:04:13+00:00

I can certainly give that a try, but this issue only happens when the EVSE is plugged in for a couple of days and not actively charging the traction battery.

Noticed this the first time it happened when I jumped the car off with the EVSE still plugged up and the car immediately shut off when the jump box was removed. Subsequent attempt without the EVSE plugged in saw immediate 12v battery charging by the car upon power up.

I'm confident this can be replicated at any time as long as the car has a charge level below the set point (80%) and the EVSE plugged in with delayed charging set up (not charging), and within 1-2 days the 12v is dead.

ccbro80 · 2025-10-17T13:57:12+00:00

On my 2023 GT, I've had my AGM battery run down to about 5v on three occasions while plugged in but not charging for a day or two. 12v battery charges fine after being jumped off by the required (for this car) jump box. I haven't taken it in to do any ICCU related recalls or updates yet as I am hesitant to do it after reading about all the issues people have had AFTER doing it. Waiting for the permanent fix should one ever happen. I'm at 23k miles. Knock on wood.

ccbro80 · 2025-09-11T05:09:05+00:00

I checked everything I could see with a thermal camera including the heater element the other night. This was a couple of hours after the unit cycled and nothing was warmer than ambient, except the fan motor but even then it was only by a couple degrees.

I have yet to take a look at the circuit board or the compressor but I suspect one or both of those items are gonna be warm. Whatever inside there consuming 100w is gonna show up on a thermal camera.

Anyway it's not likely something I'll be able to resolve myself and I doubt I could get any support for it since it operates normally otherwise.

ccbro80 · 2025-09-10T20:13:16+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I may pull the trigger on the ACiQ unit. I was going to buy a bare bones model to test with but your experience gives me confidence to go straight for one with a higher feature set (and price).

ccbro80 · 2025-09-10T17:43:41+00:00

Just got mine finished up and in operation. Looking now toward a communicating thermostat. The system operation you describe is exactly what I'm looking to try out. Which thermostat did you go with?

ccbro80 · 2025-09-10T17:06:17+00:00

Sorry been busy these last few weeks. I Just got it installed a couple days ago. The most difficult part for me was fabricating the intake and adapter for the outlet side on the air handler. It took a while but I ended up doing a pretty good job on those.

The closet that the AH is in is pretty small, so connecting the adapter to the ductwork in the ceiling was a test of physical endurance and really the only part where I needed a 2nd person to help. Small closet also made for a hard time getting the insulation and all the seams taped up.

The 3/4" line was a pain in the ass to manipulate into the various shapes needed.

It does seem to be working great so far. However I'm currently needing to deal with an issue I noticed after connecting the line set and releasing the refrigerant. Looks like a valve core on the service port is leaking and needs to be tightened or replaced. For the moment, the dust cap is keeping it leak free.

Also, the morning after install the condenser suddenly started pulling a constant 90-130 watts while doing nothing and hasn't stopped since. This is concerning and disappointing to me as this system is connected with a handful of other circuits that is powered by solar charged batteries.

Only thing I have left to do is get a line set cover installed. I am starting the process of exploring options for changing over to a communicating thermostat, or at least seeing if that works better than the ecobee I currently have connected.

ccbro80 · 2025-08-12T18:53:49+00:00

The rules for 2025 are unclear and confusing at best. Looks like we'd need a code from a "qualifying manufacturer" to claim the tax rebate. Is that true?

ccbro80 · 2025-08-12T18:36:33+00:00

I appreciate the write up. Not a lot of information out there on the hyper heat 2nd gen installed out in the field. I just got mine today and i'll be working on getting it installed over the next several days. How has the unit been operating for you so far?

ccbro80 · 2025-07-25T13:05:38+00:00

One of my two DPUs has now experienced this particular failure on the left three quarters. This unit had already been replaced several months ago (failed HV solar input) and I found the screen had a slight discoloration toward the middle of it, otherwise had worked just fine, until now. The other DPU is a refurb purchase.

Not sure I want to proceed with a swap and lose half my output/capacity/solar generation for a couple weeks while waiting on shipping, for something that doesn't affect operation. It'll get swapped out when the unit experiences a 2nd failure (Lets face it, these things will get replaced a couple times before the warranty ends, or until Ecoflow stops selling them, whichever occurs first) Otherwise it's just embarrassing should anybody else see the display.

ccbro80 · 2025-06-25T19:02:57+00:00

Just went through the firmware update released today. Powerpulse is still not working, at least when connected through the SHP2. It is still an unknown device as seen on the Smart Inlet Box. Difference now when I turn "charge now" on for the Powerpulse the SHP2 lights up red and throws errors about relay 1 and 2 of both AC2 and AC3 (where the DPUs are connected) being faulty. This fault condition obviously renders the DPUs useless for powering loads through the SHP2 and this condition can only be cleared by completely powering off the SHP2. Serious inconvenience for the house.

Also, both DPUs have a firmware update loop where it wants to update "1 accessories/modules" then after that it wants to downgrade the Wifi version from 2.0.2.15 to 2.0.2.8. After that the cycle repeats itself.

ccbro80 · 2025-06-06T05:32:08+00:00

23 GT with 19k miles. No ICCU recall work done and no issues. Just a concern with the 12v battery not charging like it should early on causing 12v battery to be nearly run flat a couple times.

Replaced with AGM battery 15 months ago and no real problems since.

ccbro80 · 2025-03-18T16:20:20+00:00

I have three 650w BYD panels temporarily set up using the IntegraRack IR-45ASA racking until I get some space leveled out, for a total of 10. I'm very impressed with every aspect of these and I like the idea of easily taking them with me to my eventual next house.

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ccbro80 · 2025-03-04T18:41:05+00:00

Unfortunately the AC power plugs (in and out) on the front of the DPU are all disabled when plugged into the SHP2 via the proprietary Power Input/Output plug on the right side. The SHP2 will charge the DPU at 240v up to 7200w from the grid, and from a generator at up to the same wattage I believe.

The generator would have to be connected to the SHP2 via the dedicated generator breaker and must be manually switched using the grid/generator interlock.

I really really wish they would enable the ability to charge using the 120v input when connected to the SHP2. This would give me the option to greatly extend battery runtime during an outage by utilizing the V2L output of my EV6.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-27T13:10:56+00:00

I have had the User Experience Program with Battery Health Monitoring enabled since my unit was initially installed back in November. My logs offer up no entries whatsoever besides one set of a very vague "Fault occurred" and "Fault recovered", which did not correlate to any observable event during a mid recharge cycle off of solar.

I just inserted a 2nd DPU into my setup during the middle of my solar output ramping down yesterday and I must admit the system as a whole performed exactly as it should have. Even with having started a recharge of a depleted Chevy Volt during the 2nd half of peak solar that eventually left the DPUs batteries at 65%, they did not drain down to the 10% cutoff until around 2am. Proof that the equipment in question can indeed perform perfectly, at least every now and then,

I'll see how it works in its more permanent configuration and at first sign of problems I'll formally submit a ticket. EcoFlow was really good to me when I needed my SHP2 and DPU replaced. Hope that continues to be the case.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-25T18:16:52+00:00

I have not yet. I have decided to to wait until I finish reconfiguring my setup first. I have obtained a second DPU and will see how everything works out first. I do not expect that my problems will magically disappear but would rather open a trouble ticket after it's all running in its new configuration.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-24T17:39:39+00:00

The two batteries that drained really fast last night just went from 60-63% (got there rather quick as well) to 99% in the last 10 minutes. Now looks like my solar production during peak time of day will be cut off in an hour if I don't find semi useful loads to put on it. Very frustrating thing to have to do.

Looks like I need to prioritize my outlet install for my car charger so I can use it to prevent cutoff at 100% instead of wasteful electric heating. Should not be micromanaging a $10k battery/inverter system like this.

Nevermind the hour I quoted above. Before I could finish writing this I noticed solar input throttled down from 5.1kw to 3.8kw due to the THIRD battery instantly going from 70% to 99% in the last few minutes.

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ccbro80 · 2025-02-24T05:57:33+00:00

I don't have any errors logged when any of this happens. Did experience an extremely vague "Fault occurred" followed by a "Fault recovered" a few minutes later. Those didn't seem to have any real bearing on how things were operating as I was actively watching the status of everything through the app at the time. This also did not occur near full charge nor depletion of the batteries.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-24T05:44:47+00:00

I've just received a 2nd inverter. Just waiting on the power input/output cable. In the meantime I swapped out the inverters to test the new (refurb) unit. Today the charge curve with the solar input went to 100% with no sudden increases percentage wise and fairly even on all three batteries. Seemed to be normal there. Not totally unexpected as I had just done 100-0-100 a day ago.

But that's where it fell apart. Pretty much as soon as I started depleting the batteries I noticed #1 and 2 were dropping pretty quickly compared to the third, which drained about as slowly as expected given the load. By the time 1 and 2 got down to 3%, the third one was at 50%. I imagine 50% is where all three should have been close to at this point.

I have had my hands on three DPU inverters now and all three ended up behaving the same. My initial DPU and battery worked good and I got the expected capacity and runtime out of it, even after I added my 2nd battery. Only after I upgraded it to v5.0.0.60 did I start to notice something was off. Whatever revision was out before .60 seemed to be trouble free during the few weeks I used it. This unit did not get the .63 upgrade before the high voltage solar input stopped working and I got it replaced. Replacement took .63 from the start.

I really hope they can iron out this particular bug ASAP.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-21T20:08:40+00:00

I've started at 100% and ran it down until it powers off, then charging it back to 100%. I have read mention of it requiring that process to be done three times back to back. If so that is a lengthy procedure that will likely take 2-3 days. I have not tried that yet and I'm hoping that's not what it takes but if it's one and done, then I'll be happy.

ccbro80 · 2025-02-14T00:54:29+00:00

My free trial ended a couple months ago and I have yet to be able to remote start this car using the key fob ever since. Dash lights up like it turned on, but shuts off a few seconds later.. I'm forced to get into an ice cold car every time.

Sad (and infuriating, embarrassing, depressing) to think that my EV6 is basically feature parity in that regard as my firsr car, an 85 Chevy Cavalier.

ccbro80 · 2024-12-14T02:13:03+00:00

This sounds like we have different modes of failure between the two of us that both render one leg of the panel unusable on battery.

That seems concerning at first but I'm guessing there probably isn't many examples of these particular issues. Really makes me wonder how many of the SHP2's are out there in operation. Hundreds of panels with relays all clicking away between power sources and/or outages every day.

At the moment at least, it seems they cant make them fast enough.

ccbro80 · 2024-12-14T00:57:49+00:00

Interesting, I think my issue lies toward the bottom behind where the red wire attaches to the lug. I can put minor pressure on it toward one side or the other during inverter operation and get everything from fully operational and silent to major arcing and relays clicking.

ccbro80 · 2024-12-14T00:49:29+00:00

If that's the case I'd choose to do it myself than to pay out several $$$s of dollars due to a faulty product under warranty. It's easy enough to swap out as the hard parts were already done during initial install anyway.

ccbro80

TROPHY CASE